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What bindings to use with my new B2's

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Just bought a set of B2's from Ski Bilek.

They're offering a Marker Titanium with the ski for 129 Euros, but i've got my salomon 912 ti's that i take off my old 1080's.

Any comments/advice on the above? I'm looking to use the B2's as an all mountain ski.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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I'd stick with the Salomons if they ain't broke
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lower, Cheapest option would be to mount your 912's.

If you want new un's & the B2's are going to be your only set of skis then go for Rossi/Look Axial's as they're the easist to manually 're-boot' after a wipe-out in powder & they have a good amount of boot length adjustment - 45mm I think(?).

If you have or plan to get additional skis get an interchangeable VIST set-up from Kiwi1. They're dearer to start with but all you'll need for additional skis are the mounting plates. They also have the benefit of allowing you to adjust the fore/aft positioning & for other boot sizes to be easily used so friends/family can use them. I've got VIST's on my Icelantic Pilgrim's & they're superb. Great choice of colours too - mine are in a greens snake skin pattern Cool. If you go for VIST's I'd be pleased to mount them for you.
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I'm looking for one ski for all to be honest. I don't get enough weeks in a year unfortunately to make it worthwhile having multiple sets of skis.

I'm not sure which way to go on this. The cheaper option is to mount my 912's, but then i'll have set of skis with no bindings which are next to useless.

Plus my existing bindings are orange :yuck:

how realistic is it to demount and remount bindings once or twice a year depending on which ski i want to take away with me? once the ski has been drilled i'd be quite happy unscrewing them and reattaching them myself.

Would you be interesting in mounting my original bindings for me Spyderjon? I'm only in leicester so you're not too far away.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
lower, demounting/remounting is a big NO NO in my opinion for normal bindings. The skis will take a screw in a hole once. To remount you need to fill in the original holes and redrill, as the original holes will not be strong enough.

Going with VIST plates would solve that one.
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lower, not sure what you're planning to do with the 1080s but if you want to sell them, I am not sure that no bindings is a big problem. I generally prefer to buy skis with no bindings even if they have been mounted before

if you want to swap bindings back and forth, I think a plate is the way to go. i am not sure that holes drilled into a ski will stand up to lots of screwing and unscrewing unless the ski is of a very beefy construction

the other thing is that a decent set of bindings should last ages - there's no need to change every time you change skis. you can pick up old salomon bindings (eg 997 equipes) on ebay for about £25 if you keep your eyes open and check ebay.de too. these are every bit as good as salomon's current offerings
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I'm not looking to swap bindings on a regular basis, just exploring options at the moment. I'm on a budget Smile

Either way, i now know that chopping and changing bindings isn't really an option

Selling the 1080's is definately an option. They're 5 years old now but in excellent condition so they'd be a bargain for someone. I can't see me using them that much so i might be better off putting them on ebay and buying new bindings for the B2's.
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After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
That sounds familiar.

I took my salomon bindings off my old 1080s and put them on my Rossi B3s. It must be a common switch! I've had no problems whatsoever. Mind you, I donated my 1080s to the Whistler adaptive ski program afterwards (and they probably threw them away because they were so noodley with age).

I might look at getting some new bindings though because the 5 year old bindings are losing bits of plastic. I'd be looking at Rossi bindings or salomon again.

You call B2's an all mountain ski?? Those skinny little things?! No, no - B3's all the way!! Cool snowHead
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All mountain for me is 70-80% on piste with 20% off, so the B2's are great for me Smile
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And a fine mounting job spyderjon, would do. Don't think I can add to this thread. Speedlock plate on each ski. Maybe a speedlock light or TT to keep the weight down then just one pair of heel and toe peices. 50% of the demos that I'm bringing to the end of season bash have the speedlock plates on so peeps can check them out.
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Whilst i'm exploring my options, does it matter if the binding i choose has a wide brake? The B2's are pretty skiny underfoot so i'm just wondering if it matter if i use a wide brake binding. I'm assuming that because the binding pulls the brake in flush when clicked in to your skiis that its not a problem.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
lower, it's not a problem unless you start carving at big angles, then the brake might catch in the snow - yes when you put your boot in it pulls the brake up and inwards, but with a wide brake it won't be as far in as with a narrow one.
Generally that shouldn't be a problem though.
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As Wear The Fox Hat, said but if you want for a VIST speedlock plate you would be on a 15mm or a 19mm riser. so a wider brake wouldn't really be a problem.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Well i've bought some bindings off ebay, again from ski bilek but for less than i would have paid if i'd bought them with the skis, even allowing for shipping.

The bindings i've bought are Tyrolia Mojo 11's which i'll now need to get mounted when i actually receive them. Any comments on this binding for this application?
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Right, got my skis and bindings. All i need know is someone to mount them. Spyderjon, are you interested?
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
lower wrote:
Any comments on this binding for this application?


They're lighter than, and nowhere as robust as, your 912s. I would have chosen the Mojo 15.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Which bindings to use ? Ones that release.

Not entirely facetious, the Axium bindings that came with my B2s did not release on my last trip. Result - one broken leg. I am not sure if the bindings were faulty. They had been serviced before the trip. I will get them checked in due course.

I always liked Salomon because you could get them serviced in any country. Everywhere stocked Salomons.
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Salomons also easier to get ready to edge/wax as the brake comes off with a single screw. No fiddling with brake retainers.
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Quote:

Salomons also easier to get ready to edge/wax as the brake comes off with a single screw.


This can be a pain with the brakes the screw has broken twice on me up the mountian leaving me with no brake.
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T Bar, ooops... perhaps I ought to get a spare?
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stoatsbrother,

I do now carry a bit of string so that I can tie the binding to the boot so that if I fall my ski does not fly down the mountain. Have to know that the screw is broken first though. Puzzled
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lower wrote:
....... All i need know is someone to mount them. Spyderjon, are you interested?

I am but I haven't got a Tyrolia mounting jig so would have to mark them up the hard way. However I could get you on my balancer first to ascertain the correct fore/aft position for you. You could have them base prepped or pick up some tuning supplies at the same time wink
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spyderjon, Get in there my son.

T Bar, I have an extremly large supply of all sorts of binding screws. If you let me know the size of screw thats snapped, I'll have a dig around and see what I've got.
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kiwi1,
Thanks but I have had them repaired both times. The trouble has been when I have been up the mountian had my skis off and put them down and the brake has fallen off. Both times I took them to a shop afterwards and had a new screw put in, it had sheared both times shortly after being remounted.
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Quote:

I am but I haven't got a Tyrolia mounting jig


I have NehNeh
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I've read several of these threads about bindings and have actually had the question answered about how the bindings attach to the skis - ans: often with these short screws.

Given the shallow depth of ski makes me wonder just how secure this mounting process actually is. Relative to the strength of materials used to make the bindings, are the screws the weak point in the whole fixture or does this pale into insignificance vs. the binding release settings? i.e. do the bindings ever 'tear' off the skis?
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
veeeight, I'll just have to slum it with Atomic & VIST wink
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Megamum, it's scary isn't it?
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Megamum wrote:
Given the shallow depth of ski makes me wonder just how secure this mounting process actually is. Relative to the strength of materials used to make the bindings, are the screws the weak point in the whole fixture or does this pale into insignificance vs. the binding release settings? i.e. do the bindings ever 'tear' off the skis?


Yes, bindings do (very rarely) tear off skis. Normally because the screws were put in too tight, and they rung the threads, or the wrong glue was used to hold them in place. The weakest point of the ski/binding/boot interface is probably the bit between the binding and the boot. Boot soles wear down due to walking. (that's one of the reasons why bindings should be checked regularly by a professional) Ice and dirt can build up on the boot sole, and on the binding, which will reduce its effectiveness. That's a lot more common than bindings pulling off, from my experience.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
On the subject of binding mounting, a high proportion of both new & used skis that I've serviced this season have either either one, two or all three of the following faults re their bindings:

- Loose binding screws - not necessarily rattling loose but certainly below the correct tightness & needed nipping up. It should be noted however that the correct tightness (usually 4.5Nm) is actually not that tight & with a 6" pozi3 driver it's actually not that hard to over tighten the screws & partially or fully strip the thread. Interesting, AFAIK, neither EB's at Castleford nor S&R Sheffield have a torque screwdriver Shocked. And wacking the screws in with a battery drill/driver is a sure way over tighten the screws.

- The binding screws have not been glued in. Adhesive, usaully a waterproof wood glue, is required to both lube the screw for insertion & to seal the thread to stop moisture ingress into the ski core.

- The burrs raised by the drill around the mounting holes have not been removed & the toe/heel piece mounting plates then 'sit' on the four burrs, slightly raised off the top sheet with daylight showing between the binding & the ski. This puts a lot more strain of the mounting screws than if the mounting plates are a snug fit flat on the top sheet. Adhesive to lube the screws helps here again to minimize the screw actually raising a burr during tightening.


Last edited by Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name: on Tue 17-04-07 20:36; edited 1 time in total
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
spyderjon, I forgot about the burrs - shows how long it's been since I mounted bindings...
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
I regularly mount tletone taps onto the kids tap shoes - these are hell and all to fit and to get to stay fitted for any length of time - I must confess that I do sometimes resort to glue, but this then makes them difficult to remove and replace onto a new set of shoes. In fact if glue is used on the ski binding screws I imagine they must be quite hard to remove too when folks want to change things around. Do the screws have any special qualities that help them to stay put, i.e. a very deep thread that perhaps is mimicked by a special drill to make the fixing really positive? Sorry if all this sounds a bit niaive, but I think knowledge about how things work helps you to have confidence in your equipment.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Wear The Fox Hat, it's about time you bought some new toys then wink.
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Megamum, yep, the screws have a special thread profile in various lengths to suit the ski thickness etc. Thread diameter is usually 5-5.5mm. They're self tapping (which is why the lube helps) & have a no.3 pozi head, usually a countersunk head to self centre in the holes in the binding plates but there's a number of bindings that have various pan/allen head designs etc. A waterproof wood glue is used as it lubes, seals & secures - but not so secure at the bond can't be easily broken relatively easily. http://www.maislinger-snoli.com/deutsch/products/p16.html

The drill bits are available in many lengths & have a shoulder that acts as a depth stop. As skis vary in thickness you have to check the depth for each hole position & if you don't have a choice of bit lengths the drill length can be reduced with a shim. Drilling right through the ski is not good for business! http://www.maislinger-snoli.com/deutsch/products/p17.html

To ensure the correct fit is obtain it's important that the correct drill diameter is selected for the ski's construction, for example I'd probably use a 4.1mm dia drill on a ski with a metal top sheet & a 3.6mm dia on a non-metal ski, even though the same screws would be used on both skis. In addition I'd usually tap the holes on metal top sheet skis whereas many stores don't & end up with drunken threads & slightly ascew bindings.

All the binding manufacturer's make jigs that clamp around the ski & you simply drill though the appropriate holes for the correct spacings etc, although the fore/aft positioning of the jig can be adjusted to suit the skier's requirements.

Unfortunately there appears to be a lack of training for the shop rats in the major stores. With the right kit & a bit of patience it's not a hard process at all.

My current record is mounting a total of 15 pairs in a day.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Is that all? NehNeh

I'm usually one of the ones that end up drilling and mounting the new additional/replacement rental stock at the Snowdome - every year around 300 pairs..... in a week.... Laughing
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veeeight, but mine had to be on straight wink
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If you need it Jon, I've just got a Vist FREE (as in the binding not the cost) jig in to mount the team skis. Give me a yell if you need it at any point.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
veeeight, when you see how thin the icelantics are and keeping in mind I gave Jon a 4.1x9.5 bit. The man done good.
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Spyderjon,

email sent.

Richard


Last edited by You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net. on Thu 19-04-07 7:24; edited 1 time in total
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spyderjon, Wow, thanks for taking the time to post that - very explanatory and interesting - it gives a whole new insight into this side of things. I've looked up the links and had a look at the drills too. One of thoses things I'm sure that an expert can make look easy, but isn't so the first time you put one on. Bearing in mind that drilling through the ski isn't desired! Can you remember how you felt the first time you took a drill to someones expensive skis? Or were they your own? Shocked


Last edited by Ski the Net with snowHeads on Wed 18-04-07 20:11; edited 1 time in total
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