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Looking for advice: Val'd'Isere or Zermatt in March

 alex_sauvage
alex_sauvage
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I was reading this forum for awhile, but this is the first time I’m actually posting.
Me and my wife would be flying to Geneva from Canada on March 16 for 10 days skiing vacation.
Our original plan was to go to high French resorts like Val’dIsere/Tignes or Les Arc/La Plagne.
Mostly because of “reliable” snow conditions in this area. But since now snow looks pretty good in all Western Alps I’m wondering if we should change those plans and split time between Zetmatt and Chamonix. Since we only getting one trip a year (if that) coming across “the Pond”, I would love to ski both of those places. However I’m wondering how “snow sure” this time of year (or rather thus year) would be Zermatt and particulary Chamonix compare to French resorts? “Ski club” website seems to show better conditions in France for the moment, but how does it look on the ground? I know that Zermatt can be very expensive, but it looks like there are a number of reasonably priced apartments in Zermatt and some nice hotels and apartments in Tashch. How reasonable it is to stay in Tashch for skiing Zermatt? Any advice or opinion will be highly appreciated.
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Welcome to snowHeads alex_sauvage, snowHead

I don't think you need to have much concern about snow conditions in Zermatt or Chamonix. They're both pretty sound right now and are not known as being places to give up their snow early.
More qualified opinions than mine to come, I expect Wink
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alex_sauvage, welcome to snowHeads snowHead

Everyone should ski Zermatt at some point in their lives. Failing that, they should go in the summer!!

I stayed in Tasch last year at the Alpenhotel. It is right opposite the station, which is a 12 min ride into Zermatt. The trains run about every 20 mins. Obviously it is a bit more hassle than having ski in/ski out, but it worked out far cheaper. You can buy a rail pass that covers you for unlimited journeys between Tasch and Zermatt, and works out cheaper than one return journey per day. There is nothing in Tasch other than a few hotels and a car park, so I went back up to Zermatt most evenings.

Zermatt is quite spread out, and has several different lift systems, so you're not really at a disadvantage, as whereever you stay in Zermatt, there will be travel involved to the lifts. The train station in Zermatt is opposite the Gornergrat mountain railway station, and has a bus stop outside to get you to the other lifts.
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Elizabeth B wrote:
Zermatt is quite spread out, and has several different lift systems,

From this season, all three are linked (and with Cervinia of course). It's still spread out, and a reliance on cable cars makes some routes pretty slow. I would say Zermatt is more integrated than Chamonix though.
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alex_sauvage, welcome to snowheads. You of course want to ski all those places, but if you have only got 10 days and you want to see some real European skiing with dramatic scenery and real towns, then I would go for Zermat/Chamonix, but you need the Col de la Forclaz pass to be open or you have a long trip round to Chamonix - presumably you are hiring a car.
All the Tarentaise resorts like Val’dIsere/Tignes or Les Arc/La Plagne are all pretty much the same (though I can see the outrage arising across the country at that statement).
If the pass is closed you could go for Verbier instead (or as well if you are feeling adventurous).
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laundryman, the three are linked...but if you are going up Klein Matterhorn, you don't really want to get the train up the Gornergrat to get there!! (unless you want to take all day).
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Elizabeth B, if you were staying near the station, it wouldn't be altogether insane to get off at one the intermediate stations, ski down to Furi and then get one of the lifts up to Klein Matterhorn.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
alex_sauvage, From personal experience on this site, you will not here a good word said about Vald'Isere, as it appears that a majority of posters hate it with a passion....

Having lived there for 3 years, and skied extensively throughout the Tarantaise, whether you love it or hate it, I don't think anybody can argue with the fact that it is without doubt one of the best serviced ski areas in the world, with several additional resorts within easily commutable distance in the same time as bussing your way around the outer regions of Zermatt and Chamonix (Sainte Foy, Villaroger/La Plagne/Les Arcs, even La Rosiere...)

Certainly earlier in the season, the snow conditions in the Tarantaise valley were comparable to anywhere in the Alps, and in conversation with a couple of guides from La Grave who I met on the Fogliettaz in Sainte Foy, were the best conditions available anywhere in the Alps. There has been an awful lot of snow since, albeit above 1500, so this is kind of irrelevant.

In summary, think about what are the key things you want from a precious holiday - do you want easily accessible skiing and renowned facilities or do you want to have to sit on a bus to access different areas daily and have picture postcard scenery? I would imagine that the costs are pretty comparible, depending upon where you stay....
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Hold on there Guvnor! This place anti Val-D? I must be looking at all the wrong posts.
(I am sure you will enlighten me)
Alex had originally chosen Val-D/Tignes (he has clearly done his research) but now wanted comments on the advisability of considering Zermatt/Chamonix.
I think it a good idea.

I was at Val-D just last week. We had a great time. I agree it has some of the best skiing in the alps. But you still need a bus to get around the place.
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Jonpim, If you can find me more positive threads relating to Val dIsere than negative, I will take my hat off to you....and a bus from La Daille to town is less than 5 minutes allowing for stops, or a 10 minute walk....It is considerably longer around Chamonix, and walking is not lly an option....

Zermatt is held in such high regard on this site that it is only slightly behind the skiing mecca that is La Rosiere, the internationally acclaimed pinnacle of all things alpine....
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Guvnor, Zermatt is rated highly, but I think that's because most people who've been there love it. I've just come back from what is probably my eighth week in Val d'Isere, which I agree is a fantastic resort, and edges Zermatt on the skiing front, however, when push comes to shove, I prefer Zermatt.

Have you been to Zermatt BTW?
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Guvnor, I have never seen anyone say that the skiing in Val D'Isere is anything less than world class. The water, the prices and some of the clientele are another matter.
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Guvnor, I look forward to skiing Zermatt and Val D'. Never seen a negative opinion of either place here Puzzled I recently returned from La Ros and I would happily recommend it to beginners/intermediates Cool

Interestingly, one of the guys I shared a chalet with in La Ros reckoned that you needed to be at least a good intermediate to go to Val D'. I hope to qualify for the lift pass soon Wink
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Kramer, Frosty the Snowman,
Quote:

From personal experience on this site, you will not here a good word said about Vald'Isere, as it appears that a majority of posters hate it with a passion....


I stand by my original statement - I do tend to find that most people knock the whole package that is Val d'Isere - or Val Despair, or Val Disease or any other such pseudonym....

Kramer, Not to Zermatt per se, although I have skied in Cervinia several years ago. This is why I based my analogy on Chamonix, where I have skied on several occasions.

This is why I asked alex_sauvage to quantify his exact requirements for his holiday. As he states, he is travelling a long way, and I'd hate for him to spend his mornings sat on a bus if he would prefer door step skiing....
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Guvnor, I agree there is a lot of negative stuff on the resort on here, but again I don't think it refers to the skiing itself.

TallTone, I skied in VD'I on my 3rd week (but really 2nd week coz I was rubbish) and had a great time. 1 fabulous day we had lunch right down in Les Brevieres and that was going via la Grande Motte. Ooh hang on what am I saying Shocked . I think you could have a great time even as a rather poor intermediate.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Quote:

This is why I asked alex_sauvage to quantify his exact requirements for his holiday. As he states, he is travelling a long way, and I'd hate for him to spend his mornings sat on a bus if he would prefer door step skiing....


For someone who's coming from Canada, which this year has more snow on one hill than all of the Alps altogether, (I'm exaggerating a bit here, but you get my point) I would guess he's looking for more than just door-step skiing from dawn to dusk.

As another North American who's also coming across the pond to ski in Europe, I would venture to guess alex_sauvage, who's probably still sleeping right now, may expect more than just cruising the piste every hour the lifts are running. Things in Europe that attracts North Americans, ski-wise: big veritcal (2000+m), treeless slopes & off-piste; outside of skiing: dramatic scenery, food.

More over, with the exception of Whistler, very few of Canadian resorts are ski-in/ski-out. So a bus ride a day is not going to be that much of a negative.
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Wauu! I didn’t expect that many replies already. I would like to thank you all for all this information.
I believe that “abc” did sum it nicely: it is an ambience with makes Europian skiing so attractive. Just to put things into perspective: our last two trips were to 3V and Wengen/Murren. They could not be farther apart as skiing experience: ski-in/ski-out 3 steps from your front door, to taking cog train up to the mountains. But nevertheless both were equally enjoyable. That’s what makes it so difficult to choose between “high resorts” vs.”old style”. I believe this time I’m leaning more towards “old style” – so there is Zermatt/Chamonix! I guess almost everybody said that one HAS to ski Zermatt before they die, so there really must be something special about the place. And as Warren Miller said: “if you don’t ski it this year, you will be one year older when you do”. I just want to make sure I won’t sacrifice too much in terms of snow condition. Chamonix doesn’t look too hot now according to “Ski club” On piste:Hard Off piste:Crust Resort runs:Good. But I believe there are more snow in the forecast.
Jonpim: thanks for the advice about Verbier – I’ve looked at Michelin site and the road to Chamonix from Martigny is shown as “closed”. Elizabeth: do you remember by any chance if there is a grocery store (like COOP) in Tasch? I’m leaning leaning more towards staying in the apartment. And where one buys the train pass? The only thing I have found on Swiss Railway Website was normal return ticket.
And also can anyone recommend nice place to stay (apartment or not too expensive hotel) in Chamonix? I’m having problems finding anything reasonable using “normal” hotel search engines (expedia, hotel.com, otel.com, venere ..). Thanks again and I’m looking forward to your replies.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
alex_sauvage, Zermatt and Chamonix have the first and second highest lift-served skiing in Europe, so there's no compromise on that front!
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alex, I don't think there was even a Co-op in Tasch. There is certainly one in Zermatt, but I'd stock up en-route if I were you. There is a bakery in the Alpenhotel.

The rail pass was bought at Tasch station, when I bought my lift pass. I'm guessing it's a local thing??
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alex_sauvage,
Chamonix and Zermatt are I believe very different form Wengen ( I haven't actually been to Chamonix going this weekend for the first time.)

The skiing goes very high though the base heights may not be particularly high you should not suffer from poor skiing conditions . The last time I was in Zermatt was in a very warm march with valley temps hitting 20 but the snow remained excellent all the areas are go up to 3000m or higher and are north facing, the runs to resort may sufer a little but that should not inhibit your skiing.

I am one of those who has at times been a little critical of Val d'Isere The skiing is excellent but there are some drawbacks to the resort.
It gets very busy indeed and fresh powder gets skied out very quickly. The resort has a very British feel to it this is a positive advantage to some people and it is not a criticism as such but for those wanting a foreign feel to their holiday it is a disadvantage. Compared with many other resorts it is expensive.

If you haven't skied Val d'Isere it is well worth it with excellent terrain, usually reliable snow conditions but not without its drawbacks.
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Thank you guys!
Elizabeth: I would definitely then stock up on the way to Zermatt. I guess there would be stores in Visp or Sion?
One thing I’m keep forgetting about is the sheer size and the vertical of those places: doesn’t matter what is the weather and snow in the valley, 2000 meters up it would be quite different.
I obviously don’t want to discard Val’d Isere – am pretty sure it’s a great resort and I would definitely try to visit it sometime. However one has to prioritize things when faced with limited time.
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I don't think you are going to go far wrong with any of the three. Val d'sere has great skiing. Choose good accomodation and your bars/restaurants you'll have a great time.

Zermatt never been but would love to go. Very envious that you are going. chamonix would be a worthwhile add on for 3/4 days.

enjoy
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Thank you dan100, this is what I'll try to do (if I can find place to stay). I would love to ski "Vallee Blanche" . My understanding is that you need a guide. Are there "organized" groups that you can signed up for or one has to hire private guide?
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alex_sauvage, You could also consider St Anton. Plenty of info on this forum. The austrian experience is pretty unique and st anton skiing is on par with the other resorts you are considering.
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I did consider St. Anton, but in the time when I decided to buy air ticket conditions in St. Anton didn't look too good. I think there was a report from one of "snowheads" who just came back from St. Anton saying that "this place can use more snow". Now snow conditions there look great, but it's more of the hustle (but I agree not impossible) to get from Geneva to St. Anton. Actually I really wanted to go to Austria this year, but conditions in Eastern Alps were pretty bad in the beginning of the season, so since change of plans. I guess I leave St. Anton for another year. There are too many nice places to ski – too little time . However, I found it interesting that all the places mentioned here are the same one I sort of choose for myself to ski sometime or another. Looks like reading “The Bible” really helps 
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Hi Alex - welcome! We love both Val D and Zermatt - but having just come back from Zermatt a week ago, and having had an amazing time I would probably go for Zermatt. Presumably you've looked at the Zermatt website for accommodation?? We were amazed at how cheaply you can stay in Zermatt itself.... either in an appartment or one of the reasonably priced hotels. Found a number of hotels (with availability for a peak Feb week) that were between 60 and 80 swiss francs per person per night. We had great skiing (powder off piste when other resorts were snow starved) and lovely lunches at the mountain restaurants - and again the prices were the same or less than French resorts. And when I tore my calf muscle and all I could do was look out at the view - decided the Matterhorn definitely takes some beating ... and then for rehab I hobbled round the fab shops!!

We'd love to go to Canada skiiing... Maybe one day..
xx
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jayne durham wrote:
Hi Alex - welcome! We love both Val D and Zermatt - but having just come back from Zermatt a week ago, and having had an amazing time I would probably go for Zermatt. Presumably you've looked at the Zermatt website for accommodation?? We were amazed at how cheaply you can stay in Zermatt itself.... either in an appartment or one of the reasonably priced hotels. Found a number of hotels (with availability for a peak Feb week) that were between 60 and 80 swiss francs per person per night. We had great skiing (powder off piste when other resorts were snow starved) and lovely lunches at the mountain restaurants - and again the prices were the same or less than French resorts. And when I tore my calf muscle and all I could do was look out at the view - decided the Matterhorn definitely takes some beating ... and then for rehab I hobbled round the fab shops!!

We'd love to go to Canada skiiing... Maybe one day..
xx


Thanks Jayne, it looks like everybody likes Zermatt, so I believe I'll try it this year. I looked at Zermatt accommodation list and you are right: it is quite reasonable. I am wondering if you could recommend some place based on your experience? I have seen nice deal for the hotel on train station square (Gornergrat?), but reviews of it don’t look too nice.
P.S. Canada definitely has some nice skiing and reliable snow on the West coast. I remember skiing the best powder of my life on May 10 in Sunshine. But it can be b..pretty cold in Jan. and Feb. So if you decide to go, I’ll be glad to help with advice.
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