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Courmayeur Questions?

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
We have the opportuntiy to go on a group excursion to Courmayeur (Febuary 2 - March 6) -- the price is very tempting. We've only skied the last 2 years and I'd describe us as lower intermediates. Would the terrain at Courmayeur be suitable for us? The package includes a 6-day Aosta Valley ski pass. Skiing at La Thuile looks like it migh suit us better, is there a shuttle between these areas? Any comments on Hotel Cresta Et Duc? Thanks!
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Quote:

Febuary 2 - March 6


That's a long trip to Courmayeur! NehNeh

Definately, terrain is quite easy!!! Went there earlier this year. It's quite a small area so you need the other bits the lift pass gives to you if going for more than a few days - Chamonix is also included, so head to Le Tour for a day of motorway cruising!!! The buses are very good and leave from the bus station at the bottom of the town. Definately get out of there on Sunday as it is manic!!! or get up very early or you'll get caught in the stamped for an hour or so trying to get up the mountain. The other days in the week we had no problems getting up by the main lift, although Skanky recommends walking a bit further the other way to get the other, very quiet, gondola - which also takes you to the quietest and best runs! Cool Also if it's windy it may be worth using one of the other places available as the top lifts tend to get shut as soon as the wind gets up.

The best runs are over the back down the right hand side of the mountain - as you look at it when you get up the first gondola.

It's quite a quiet pretty town, few good pubs/bars and restaurants. Sorry don't know the hotel, Skany I'm sure will know something about it.

Skanky is our resident Courmayeur expert, and Matteo our Italian expert - I'm sure they will be along in a bit to help you out!
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RISkier, Oh and welcome to snowHeads!
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RISkier, Courmayeur's popular, for good reason. The terrain would be fine. Nice old town, plenty of places to enjoy good Italian food. Not the cleverest lift system on the planet so, as Dan says, early starts are best.

Can't say much more, except ski the Vallee Blanche. It's one of the world's most outstanding ski runs, and not difficult.

Have a great time!
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The best week in the snow I have ever had was in Courmayeur. Great food, bars etc, decent slopes and not too difficult at all - ideal for what you have described as your standard. Back of the mountain is brilliant particularly in the morning.

Go for it.
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Oh yeh. The downside is the first gondola up. Chaos first thing in the morn, so be early or wander up leisurely!
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Sorry not online except for brief bits at the moment, so here goes:

Don't know the hotel, sorry.

Terrain, yes you'll love it, but yes it is quite small (and low so be prepared to travle if it's a bad year).

The other cable car up (Val Veny lift) is not walkable, it is however busable and/or drivable (les than 5 mins by car) it's in the Monte Blanc direction on the main road (Not the Autostrada). At peak periods it may well be quicker than the main one even with the bus (and is less crowded and there's no walk, etc.). It has ski hire places, at the top and bottom of it. I very rarely get the main cable (and normally only down as the hotels normally do a shuttle service if they're a distance away - they may do one to the VEny lift).

Try and do the Vallee Blanche, you won't regret it.

Other resorts that "easy" to get to include: Pila (cable car up from Aosta which is reachable by bus or car in less than an hour); La Thuile (reachable by bus or car, may need to change buses check at the bus station but again les than an hour); Chamonix (again car and bus about 20-30 mins depending on the traffic); Cervinia (bus and car bus requires change - 1-2hrs depending on traffic, so not recommended unles you're early starters, though I've enjoyed it when I've done it). Cervinia and La Thuile are the more snow sure - though the weather is normally inverse across the MB range (e.g. crap in Courmayeur will often mean good in Chamonix and vice versa).

Courmayeur has a ridiculous number of bars and restaurants on piste for the size of the resort. One of the better (though smaller) ones is at the top (or just down from) the Zerotta chairlift - comes recommended, even though it's more snacklike food.

I can ask about about the hotel if you want, but it'll be a few days.

Oh, and if you do go visit the Maisob d' Filipo (spelling is almost certainly wrong, I can get you details) for dinner one evening - but don't eat much during the day beforehand. It's not cheap but definitely worth it.

Anything else just ask - if I can't remember, I can normally find out.
Might be going myself again this year, it looks like.
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David Goldsmith wrote:
RISkier, Courmayeur's popular, for good reason. The terrain would be fine. Nice old town, plenty of places to enjoy good Italian food. Not the cleverest lift system on the planet so, as Dan says, early starts are best.


Used to be better when the Hotel telecabine (sp?) in Dollone still had its gondola. You could leave breakfast and be up the mountain in less than 15 minutes (inc. putting oin your boots). It got a little old and un-cost effective though. Sad
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Can't give you any details on Hotel Cresta Et Duc, but it's very close to the town centre and Bar Roma, and also very close (second closest?) to the main lift. It's apparently a nice hotel.
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If it's close to Bar Roma then you'll have a short stumble home every night - we ended up in there most nights and slumped in the huge sofas/chairs. Some nights they do a good spread of free food on - think it may be Sunday? Oh and while i remember, there is an English orientated bar called Poppys just along from the main lift (- is that right skanky, ??) which does free pizza from 6pm (I think) and happy hour snowHead Blush

You can also join trips to see the local Serie A fotty teams from there if it's the right time of year.
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Dan, yeah, that's the one. Just up from the bus station/main car park.
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Wanted to thank you all for your helpful comments. We determined that we couldn't escape from work the week of the scheduled excursion -- bummer. From the research I've done, I think we'd just love Courmayeur -- we absolutely love the charm, cuisine, and friendliness we've encountered in our limited travel to Europe. We may have to wait a year, but Cormayeur is now definately on our "we want to go there" list. Thanks to all!
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Read you comments guys and as long as you are confident Courmayeur is not too bad. Personally I find the skiing there way too limited. I worked for Interski for 2 seasons in the Aosta Valley and I would say that Pila has better terrain for an early intermediate and La Thuile is better for the more advanced skier. I found that even mid intermediate skiers lost confidence on a great deal of the runs in Courmayeur which limits the area even more.

Go stop in Aosta, how many ski holidays can you go on where the town has Roman ruins? Pop into Bar Beautiful (a real Italian place) and see Salva and Toni, you will be treated like a god. Eat at the Moderno where a really nice Pizza costs about £3.50.

Sorry guys, Courmayeur is overrated (my opinion).
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Hey guys! Listen to the man! RISkier and his friends have "only skied the last 2 years" and he describes his crowd as "lower intermediates".
I think a lot of the more exeperienced skiers here have forgotten what is was like back then. I'm even going to take my life in my hands and risk disagreeing with David Goldsmith who I know is vastly more experienced than I am.
1. RISkier you and your friends will have a super time in Courmayeur. The slopes are just perfect for your level, and you will not get bored - I'm assuming you are still taking lessons. If you really do want to explore, then try La Thuille rather than Chamonix.
The town of Courmayeur is just wonderful. Some fantastic bars (there is a great one, full of ancient sofas and armchairs, that provides food, a wonderful atmosphere, and a selection of the most gorgeous women I have ever seen - I'm sure skanky knows its name). There are also great shops and super restaurants.
2. Only do the Vallee Blanche if your instructor thinks you can do it. Many people will tell you that any old intermediate can do the Vallee Blanche (including the great DG here). This is not correct. On a good day maybe, but in the wrong conditions, after a few falls and a loss of confidence (I have seen it happen) the day can quickly become a misery for everyone. You are exhausted and frightened. Your good skiing friends are frustrated at having their great off-piste day ruined by having to play nurse-maid. I can see the indignant missiles coming my way already after these comments, but better safe than sorry. There is no way back once you start the run. You have been warned.
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Jonpim, I think you're referring to Bar Roma on the Via Roma.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
That's definately Bar Roma..............think you may have drunk a few too many shandies though Wink
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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I agree with Jonpim. I went to Courmayeur a couple of years ago and absolutely loved it. It was my second week of skiing, and I found it was perfectly suited to my level of experience; started off on nice confidence-building blues, then moved onto progressively more challenging reds over the course of the week. I always seemed to be able to find a run that pushed my skills just a little bit further. And of course the village, the scenery, the food and the overall ambience were suberb as well snowHead
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I side with Jonpim that for skiers with two years experience Courmeyeur may be limited in term of what it can offer. It isn't big by any standard and the terrain is hilly with occasional crowded and difficult spots. La Thuille is more open up and wider and has link to the French side La Rosiere, making it a bigger area to suit the intermediates.

It has its own charm and the resort is seldom congested too. Courmayeur is within the Chamski skipass and is just a tunnel away from Chamonix. I find it a perfect place for a day trip.
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exaclty what we said earlier in the thread, you really need to abuse the pass to it's most (Chamonix, La Thuille etc) to get a week out of Courmayeur.
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Dan, sorry, I missed your post mentioning the Bar Roma and being "slumped in the huge sofas/chairs". Forgive me.
I think they do that table with food every night.
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Of course the best bar used to be Steve's bar, but that is no more.

There used to be two reasonable clubs as well, Clochard (I think) and the Tiger Club, but they moved to below the market square and got trashed in the floods one year. Until the Bar Roma was a bit dead (or Brit-only) and it regained some life when that competition vanished.

I'm vaguely surprised that people thought that beginners and lower intermediates would find Courmayeur too limiting and challenging, all the ones I've known there have loved it.

Pila is very nice though, and I would recommend people having the ability to travel around teh valley, and Aosta is decent enough a place to stay (and considerably cheaper than Courmayeur).

La Thuile can be very exposed wind-wise at times - but I haven't skied there enough to know how common that is.

Vallee Blanche is definitely down to whether the instructor thinks it's okay - and difficulty can vary considerable from one year to the next. However, from the Italian side there's less problem areas. The big thing about VB is the confidence to stop and turn in tight spaces. It's not like that all the way down, though.
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skanky wrote:


Vallee Blanche is definitely down to whether the instructor thinks it's okay - and difficulty can vary considerable from one year to the next. However, from the Italian side there's less problem areas. The big thing about VB is the confidence to stop and turn in tight spaces. It's not like that all the way down, though.


Interestingly last year (admittedly I have only been ski-ing about 4 weeks) there was no question of me being "allowed" to do VB. The ski reps insisted that you really ought to have off-piste experience and fall into the "advanced" category. I'm not sure that conditions were any worse last year, so maybe they are trying to put people off?
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Tony Ellwood, the Vallee Blanche is the only off-piste I've ever done.
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Tony Ellwood, the reps may well have done you a favour.
In February this year a group of us planned to do the Vallee Blanche over a long weekend, but the weather had other ideas.
We skied Courmayeur Day 1, then La Thuile on Day 2. Day 3 looked promising and even got up to the lift at La Palud (scroll right), but by then the clouds were coming down again: no-go. So now what? We had the guides, we had the packed lunches, we had the Grappa. What to do?
We got back on the minibus and drove down to Entreves, then lift lift ski lift lift lift and we were up at Cresta D'Arp for the superb off piste run down by Col D'Arp back to Couramyeur.
Now, there were 12 of us, we had skied hard for 2 days, and no one had had any trouble on the piste. Apart from some Breakable Crust for the first 50 metres or so, the run was not difficult. A tricky red at times maybe, but never really black. But there were bumps and there was fresh snow. Soon we were puffing a bit, and the legs were begining to glow. And 2 of our party were starting to fall a bit, then they were falling a lot, and then they just stopped! (about where the run splits on the piste map, and we took the line down to Dolonne).
They had run out of Bottle. A mixture of poor technique and lack of fitness. The rest of us were genial and supportive at first, but it was soon clear that these 2 needed some rest, some time to regain their compusure, and some expert help. So one of the guides stayed with them, and the rest of us went whooping and hollering down the rest of the mountain.
In fact, after a rest, and with the guide's help, the 2 left behind made good progress and were only a couple of buses behind us in the end (there's a bus service from Dolonne to get you back to Courmayeur).
So, be careful out there.
Ifyouski has some good stuff on the Vallee Blanche. In Who should ski it? don't just read "any strong intermediate can manage", but read on and think carefully about "Above all you need to be reliable - there are places where you need to thread your way between crevasses" and "You also need to be fairly fit - you'll be spending four hours or so on your feet".
Remember: skiing is bliss when you can do it. It's hell when you can't.
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Courmayer is not a difficult resort, I remember my daughter did some race training there once and volunteered to show us the slopes, I think we did every piste in a day. It is however a great place for a party, either on the slopes or in town. La Thuile is a much better resort for a weeks skiing, more varied terrain, and a better lift system. It can get windy up in the Col de Petit San Bernardo but if it's it windy in La Thuile it's going to be windy in Courmayer.
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Quote:
but if it's it windy in La Thuile it's going to be windy in Courmayer.


Probably, but I've never known it as windy as the time I skied La Thuile.

Courmayeur's biggest problem is its smallness - add to that it being the only destination for a few years, and I can't work out why Internationale still catches me out the first time I ski it every year. That's why I reckon it's a great weekend destination, and that the Val d' Aosta would be a great multi-resort week.

However,some of the best fun I've ever had on skis was continuously skiing each side of the Gabba lift for a couple of hours in cloud and blizzard (and this was when it was the old two-man chairlift). Sometimes you don't need a lot of ski area.

I've never yet skied from d'Arp (in fact I've rarely seen it open in recent years).
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David@traxvax, I agree with all but your last sentence. I've skiied Courmayeur and La Thuile on the same day several times and in my experience Col de Petit San Bernardo is much more exposed in cold windy weather. I remember some extremely cold chairlift rides.
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Meister Jager, you're right I know exactly which chairs you're talking about. Last year, on one day it was so windy, all the chairs were closed and the pisteurs had to take us back to the La Rosiere link on skidoos, should have charged our guests extra! Granted the Petit San Bernardo and Forclaz areas can be windy but that's mainly because they are the domains closest to Mont Blanc. The skiing in La Thuile is in effect spread over 3 bowls so you don't have to just ski in Fourclaz or Petit San Bernardo. I'm willing to bet there are more than a few skiers in La Thuile who never get that far.
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skanky wrote:
However, from the Italian side there's less problem areas. The big thing about VB is the confidence to stop and turn in tight spaces. It's not like that all the way down, though.

I'm not sure about the "stopping". On ice bridges you don't want to stop because they can give way. There's a big ice fall (several hundred metres) about half way down on the French route. I'm not sure if the Italian route has joined up by then - it might be avoidable from the Italian side. Anyway it's long, steep, has those tight spaces and crevasses and ice bridges. The guides tell you at the top on no account to stop until you've negotiated the whole thing. It's the section where lack of strength, fitness or nerve will tell. I'm fully in agreement with jonpim's caution and everyone's advice to consult your instructor.
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laundryman, I don't recall that bit - it may have been created after I did it (due to glacial movement or shrinkage), or you join it afterwards from the Italian side. The main bits I remember were little paths where you had to wind you way down short, steep sections that could involve a 180 degree turn halfway down.
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 Poster: A snowHead
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We have a group going to Courmayeur in February 2005. We are staying at Hotel Cresta et Duc. We have both Skiers/Boarders and non-skies who want to go sightseeing and shopping. We have a wide range of abilities with about 10 intermediate/advanced skiers/borders that want to cover allot of resorts and runs. Can anyone help us out and answer some of these questions:

Do we need a different ski pass to ski to La Rosiere
Can we use the standard pass to ski Chamonix and Flaine?
What does the four/six day ski pass cover and who should get the International Ski Pass?

Does our ski pass include shuttle service to other areas: La Thuile, Chamonix, Flaine

How easy is it to use public transportation to other resorts and towns?

Is it possible to rent a car/van at or near Courmayeur, How much approx.?

How much is a guide for a group to ski the Valée Blanche Glacier to Chamonix

Is Cervinia/Zermatt possible via public transportation?

It this a good agenda and possible?
Monday - Ski/Board Courmayeur
Tuesday - Courmayeur to Valée Blanche Glacier run to Chamonix, France back to Italy via Mont Blanc Tunnel.
Wednesday - Bus to La Thuile, Italy. Ski La Thuile to interconnected La Rosiere, France.
Thursday - Flaine, France
Friday - Cervinia, Italy interconnected to Zermatt, Switzerland
Saturday - Ski Chamonix-Agentiere (France)

Thanks
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TheWorldTour, I'm guessing you're americans coming over to europe for the first time? I've skied Tahoe in the states, but not much other stuff, so my view point may be skewed, but the resorts over here tend to be a bit bigger. You;re covering an anwful lot of resorts in a very short space of time. Youreally own;t have much time to do more than scratch the surface of each of the resorts that you;re planning to visit, even if you;re motorway skiier who does nothing more than hammer down pistes and up lifts all day long

I'd personally consiser spending more time in Courmayeur, allocate one day for the vallee blanche, and maybe lok at one or may be two days at la thuile / la rosiere

but, yo umay ignore me entirely, as I've only visited courmayeur (weekdn ttrip, tunnel was still closed so we couldn't do the vallee blanche) and flaine (really bad weather, all the links to the oulying parts of the ski domain were closed)
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TWT, welcome to snowheads, your plans do sound a bit ambitious. I would guess that the Tourist Office in Courmayer would be the best place to start. I've only ever skied Courmeyer when I've stayed in Chamonix. I do know there is an active Maison Des Guides in Courmeyer, we often see them on the Espace San Bernardo. On a six day Chamonix valley pass there was cover for a day's sking in Courmeyer & Megeve, no mention of Flaine. I suggest you contact the Chamonix tourist office. Whether the Courmeyer ski-pass works in the alternate direction I don't know but I would assume so. On your plans you have a day skiing Cham/Argentiere, I guess you'd be driving through the tunnel? You can buy a single day pass from La Rosiere for the Espace San Bernardo, so I guess you'd be able to do the same from La Thuile, again the tourist office has got to be your start point. Good Luck.
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TheWorldTour, though I've been quite a few times, I haven't tried to do all you want so will answer those questions I can now, and can probably get some answers for the others:

1) The week long Courmayeur lift pass covers a day in La Thuile (which I think includes La Rosiere), Pila and Cervinia (maybe one or two others) but only for a day. It may cover Chamonix - I've never tried except for the last few hundred metres of the Vallee Blanche run. The Cervinia part of the pass does *not* include Zermatt unless you buy the the correct pass (see point 2).

2) There is a Val d'Aosta lift pass which is valid in most/all resorts in Val d'Aosta for the whole week - it's not particularly cheap though, but worth it if you want a lot of variety. As far as I know, the International "Autour du Mont-Blanc" lift pass is the only one that covers Zermatt (though I could be wrong). I would recommend contacting them before deciding which to buy.

2) There are no ski shuttles as such. There is however a regular bus service to Aosta and Chamonix. I seem to remember direct buses to La Thuile as well, but you may need to change at Pre St. Didier.

3) Public transport is fine, but the buses do tend to stop at quite a lot of places. This is great for the non-skiers, but skiers may prefer more direct stuff which gives more slope time (Chamonix is perfectly fine by bus, though).

4) Car rental may be best at the airport if you wish to use it a lot. There are car rental places around the area - you may well be better off looking at renting from Aosta than Courmayeur (I would guess that there's a noticeable pric difference, but have never rented round there). If you're coming from Geneva then maybe rent in Courmayeur.

5) Vallee Blanche prices can be found on the Guide website. If you call them, use +39 0165 842064 <- Note the 0 *should* be used when phoning from abroad.

7) Forget Cervinia by bus as it involves a change and by car can take an hour and a half (more if you get stuck behind a lorry).

8 ) I would make your itinery flexible to cope with the weather. If the weather's bad stay in Courmayeur, if it's really bad, drive down to Pila (about an hour inc. the gondola ride up from Aosta). The vallee Blanche you have to be flexible and try and fit it in when the weather's fine - the lifts can close due to wind as much as anything.

Useful websites:

http://www.regione.vda.it/turismo/skialpin_e.asp
http://www.skivallee.it/uk/
http://www.guidecourmayeur.com/public/inglese/default.asp?Lingua=english
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Oh, and I forgot to say, if you hire a car then at the busy times you can go to the Val Veny cable car (up to 5 mins drive) and avoid the worst of the queues (esp. Sunday).
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Where are you flying into?

We flew into Turin, Courmayeur is a very easy & quick motorway drive from there in about 1:40 minutes from what i remember Toofy Grin

With such a large group it may be better and more organised to travel in a a couple of large car/MPVs (-mini buses). We got a very good deal booking our hire car via www.holidayautos.com
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Dan, they're flying into Milan from Boston (see under Trips).
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skanky, cheers
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No probs. It sort of jumped out at me. Wink Despite not having been for 3-4 years, I have this horrible feeling I'm going to get a similar reputation for Courmayeur that D G Orf has for Wengen. Very Happy

Not that being regarded an expert on somewhere is to be dismissed, I haven't been enough recently to be more than mildly knowledgeable.
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This is great info for my planned trip to this area in early March, snowheads is great!
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