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Washing ski gear

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
I've always washed my gear in Nixwax using the Tech Wash followed by the wash in waterproofer.

Now I've been told this is a load of twaddle and so long as I use non-biological washing powder the waterproofing stays in place for about 7 washes.

I didn't know this. Sad
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Beverley, we only use non-bio washing powder and our ski stuff is never as good after a single wash. I can't believe that it'd be ok after 7 washes.

IMHO, the Nikwax stuff was probably a good idea.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Beverley, following PhillipStanton, Nikwax or TX-10 for me too. Once you screw up your £400 Gore-Tex (or whatever) jacket, it tends to stay screwed up.
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Ok thanks for this. I am not tempted by no-bio and will get some more nixwax stuff.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Have just had a look at the Nikwax website and on this page http://www.nikwax.co.uk/en-us/products/productdetail.php?productid=268&activityid=-1&itemid=-1&fabricid=-1 it says, after clicking "When to use this product"
Quote:
Clean items with Nikwax Tech Wash before proofing them with the appropriate Nikwax proofer. You should be able to wash reproofed gear 6 to 8 times with Nikwax Tech Wash before it requires reproofing with the appropriate Nikwax proofer

Hence I think, Beverley, that the statement you were told was part of the truth but not all of it. I use Nikwax myself but have not washed things enough to have a personal view on how many washes are OK between reproofing.
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Beverley, I also think that you have been given duff info. Nikwax etc works really well and there is a noticeable difference between an unwahsed jacket and a properly washed and then proofed jacket. I have never used a non-bio but can't imagine that it would improve the waterproofing of a jacket whose repellency (?) is already decaying (as it does naturally over time).
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
But never use Nikwax on a lined garment - I made that mistake and the wax all went into the lining and my sweat now condenses on the inside of my (now superceded) jacket.
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After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
I usually waterproof at the beginning of the season then wash in Techwash for the remaining washes, so I suppose every three or four washes last season. Incidentally, last Christmas I had to wash the jacket in normal washing powder after an argument with a Bailey's Hot Chocolate, it was still waterproof in the heavy snow the next day.
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Thanks everyone for preventing what may have been an expensive mistake Shocked
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Don't use ordinary bio or non-bio - use natural soap flakes, then treat with Nikwax.
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I'll ask Mrs O what she uses (washing is a woman's job) as soon as she's done the dusting and ironed my shirts.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Odin, Twisted Evil
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snowball wrote:
But never use Nikwax on a lined garment - I made that mistake and the wax all went into the lining and my sweat now condenses on the inside of my (now superceded) jacket.


Shocked I was going to use NikWax on all my ski gear, but all of it is lined. I need to take the bottle back to S&R for a refund, I enquired about these products and there was no mention of not using on lined garments. I think most of us would have linings in a our ski wear. Confused
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
IncogSkiSno, I think I use the TX-direct wash-in.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Helen Beaumont, Thanks, just read the bottle (now that I can see again), and I do have the wrong thing, I should have had some of your stuff Confused
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
I find that after a weaering ski gear for a couple of years without washing it, ski gear tends to build up its own unique proofing (and aroma) Confused Embarassed
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
I didn't realise you were supposed to wash ski gear, i just put it back in the holdall until next time
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Bob, I'm with you - well not closer than 20 yds, obviously! wink
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The following is quoted from the OutdoorsMagic website by their technical expert for the best way to wash and reproof Gore-Tex:

"Reproofing using a dedicated fabric DWR restorer like Nikwax TX10 or Grangers Extreme is pretty straightforward if you're thorough about it. First you need to wash the garment thoroughly using a pure soap or technical cleaner to remove dirt and other residue. Run a boil wash through your machine first to remove traces of detergent and wash out the detergent drawer.
Next use either a wash-in treatment for three-ply garments - ones which are a single layer of fabric - or a spray-on for two-ply garments which have a separate mesh liner. Follow the maker's instructions.
With Nikwax treatments, you're now good to go. If you use Grangers, which is closer to the original treatment, you need to heat treat the garment to activate the treatment and help it bond to the fibres of the garment. We'd suggest careful application of a cool iron rather than tumble drying, since tumble driers abrade clothing and can also melt plastic fixings if the thermostat is faulty. Follow care labels on ironing temperatures.
Once done, water should bead and run off the outside of the garment as it did when new.
Sometimes simply washing in a technical wash then ironing the garment is enough to restore the factory DWR, so if your jacket is quite new, try this before re-proofing."

NOTE: The DWR (durable water repellant) is the coating that makes the water bead on the surface of the fabric - if the water stops beading it does not mean the fabric in not waterproof.

snowHead
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IncogSkiSno wrote:
snowball wrote:
But never use Nikwax on a lined garment - I made that mistake and the wax all went into the lining and my sweat now condenses on the inside of my (now superceded) jacket.


Shocked I was going to use NikWax on all my ski gear, but all of it is lined. I need to take the bottle back to S&R for a refund, I enquired about these products and there was no mention of not using on lined garments. I think most of us would have linings in a our ski wear. Confused
I think most jackets are a shell now, like my new one, and people use various other (wicking) garments in layers underneath. When I told Nikwax about it they said I shouldn't have used it and asked which shop has recommended I use it (it was Nevis Sport in Fort William) and said they would send the shop another warning.
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Anybody know what Schoeffel Venturi is? Is that like Goretex, but with a membrane made from another Polymer to avoid the TM licence fees? My jacket has done a couple of seasons, and I think it could use a wash. I guess Nikwax Direct Wash In followed by a going over with TX10?
Also have an old Berghaus Goretex jacket that is just outer, goretex and mesh liner (ie no insulation/padding etc). I guess the same there? Or does the Nikwax Washing stuff make the outer part water repellent too?
Is it really safe to put 500 quids worth of Jackets in the washing machine, or should I hand wash them?
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
The advice from Haglofs on question as to how to wash a soft shell garment was simple:

"Wash in ordinay detergent in machine. To tumbledry will help the water repellent to stay alive longer. When you need to apply water repellent you shall use a spray."
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
hmmm, snowball, I think I have done the same. Any ideas on how to get it out of the lining?
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prthomas, unless the lining is detachable, you'll struggle.

...the problem is that if you wash that stuff into your lining, you make it less breathable, so you'll end up sweating.
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Unless you really have just a hard shell with no lining, it seems a safer bet to wash the jacket normally and then use spray to waterproof as the answer from one manufacturer indicates. All soft shells - and many hard shells still - have some sort of lining, and getting that waterproofed is not exactly a good idea.
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demos, don't wash normally - use soap flakes/natural soap, and a low temp setting. Normal washing powder/detergents can wash the coating off, or reduce it's effectiveness.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Good old marseillese soap would probably be the best.
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
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Wear The Fox Hat wrote:
demos, don't wash normally - use soap flakes/natural soap, and a low temp setting. Normal washing powder/detergents can wash the coating off, or reduce it's effectiveness.


This is completely correct for washing Goretex: run your washing machine on empty to get rid of any detergent traces, wash in soap, wash in reproofer, then tumble dry on a low heat for 20 min, this helps activate the reproofer.

Foe eVent fabric I think you are supposed to wash in detergent first then carry out the above as the pores are likely to become blocked by natural oils.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
OK as a control I've washed my hard-shell jacket (non goretex but ACG highish end & old) in a small amount of non-bio powder and proofed it using a big dose of Comfort. I'll report back on how it does over the season Very Happy.

In my experience even brand new off the shelf goretex wets out in about 70 minutes in Cumbrian rain so if I get 40-60 minutes out of wet snowfall out of this technique it'll be pretty good.

When people talk about lining do they mean the bonded scrim on the inside of the fabric for anti abrasion or the losse mesh lining. I'd have thought its pretty difficult to adversely waterproof mesh.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
im with fatbob, only my missus kindly does it for me. for all my money and making my like a misery.. wink
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
I've always just thrown my jackets and ski bottoms in a normal wash with any old stuff that also needs cleaning. I haven't had any problems. Although I'm sure it must harm the waterproofing, but certainly not to the extent that I feel I need to be careful. Might be different if I was climbing Everest.
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Just wash in cold water and use no soap. Unless you've been skiing through mud should clean okay and less damaging.
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