 Poster: A snowHead
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Agreed grumpy gargoyle! We’ve been here since Monday night, snowed a lot Monday but conditions are amazing, blue skies, pretty warm so lower down is getting slushy quite quickly. Went over to Zermatt yesterday, slopes slightly better over there but slushy on south facing slopes. Town seems busy but the slopes are relatively empty, perfect. Red Dragon is still open!
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Do we know will they start to close areas, Valtourneche for example? I see the last piste down to Zermatt isn't showing up on the map, not sure if that is a mistake or is it closed
Edit - looks like Valtourneche will close on the 26th
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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And so the end is …. Here.
Well not really - but most of the Swiss side lifts and slopes close this Sunday. After that only the Klein Matterhorn and Furgsattel runs will be open down to Furgg. The runs to Furgg close on 3 May, same as Cervinia (Valtournenche closes the week before). The higher parts of Klein Matterhorn run throughout the summer and the Furggsattel lift runs until 22 May.
I have been lucky to have been out here for the last two weeks (last week was Zermatt Unplugged). The weather has been glorious and the pistes have been in great condition. There has even been a couple of decent dumps – although mainly on the Italian side with some of it making it over to the southern part of the Swiss side. The lower and more southerly facing pistes have been struggling as the day has gone on (Sunnegga is now struggling even at the start of the day). But fortunately there is plenty of high northerly facing slopes so it has been no problem skiing all day if you have wanted to.
The main disappointment for the season has been the inability (on the Swiss side) to get a lot of the itinerary runs open. The Klein Matterhorn and Schwarzsee runs opened but it was never possible to get anything open on Hohtälli or Rothorn. These areas are rocky and need a fair amount of snow to cover the rocks and open up the itineraries. If you look at the precipitation record for the mountain area below you can see the problem (the blocks are this season, the dotted lines are the average). September started off well and in the higher parts that was snow. October was OK. But then the drought began. November, December and to a lesser extent January just didn’t bring enough snow. The temperatures were fine so there was plenty of snow making on the pistes (you can still see how deep the bases on most of the pistes are). But that does nothing for the itineraries. February was great and March was good (as has April been – not showing on the record yet obviously). But by then the damage in terms of rock cover had been done.
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That's a pity, they've plenty of high terrain they could keep open I assume? You would think trading on the year round skiing label it might be in their interests to go for the last few weeks of the market, particularly with so many international visitors. I'm just thinking looking at the map that I've never been anywhere past Furi was thinking of heading across if I made it next week. Will the run down to the very bottom be open after Sunday do you think or is it already closed?
@JohnMo, enjoy the Summer and doubtless you'll be back next year with more excellent updates and tips for people visiting
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@8611, Yes, there is plenty of stuff they could keep open after next week. They just don’t seem to think it is financially worthwhile as the visitor numbers are not that great. And it tends to be more serious skiers/tourers who are less likely to be having long expensive lunches or spending much outside the ski pass.
Cervinia takes the opposite approach despite not having as much north facing terrain. Not only does it stay open until 3 May, in most years it keeps as many pistes open as it can even beyond that.
The run down from Furi looks in good shape. However, the other home run at the north end of town looks like it has already bit the dust. The rate of loss of snow at lower levels at present is such that there must be a risk that the run down from Furi could follow suit.
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@mountainaddict, Ha, that is some can of worms. As you’d expect the answer is: “it depends …”
Zermatt is very high (indeed the highest in Europe). So it is good at “catching” passing storms. However, it is surrounded by really high mountains which can also be good at catching said storms first.
Zermatt does better when there are big storms. They push their way through and then dump a load of snow when they hit the even larger mountains of Zermatt. The snow also tends to be drier and fluffier than European resorts closer to the sea. Being north facing the snow also melts a lot less, particularly in the height of winter meaning that you have snow landing on existing good quality snow so it builds up well.
The more northerly the storm has come from the better as most of the big mountains are to the west. Easterly storms are good but rarer. Storms from the south or south east are good as long as they are strong enough to get over the Alpine ridge separating Zermatt and Cervinia (which is where the African and European tectonic plates collide – the Matterhorn is African at the top and European at the bottom).
This year too many of the storms in November, December and January just weren’t strong enough and/or came from a poor direction to make it through unfortunately.
So I wouldn’t say as a general principle that Zermatt gets less snow than one might expect – but in some years because of storm strength and direction it certainly can be the case.
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I’m heading to cervinia Sunday, looks like the temps will drop and maybe a few flakes of snow. I’ve got the Cervino ski app, I’m assuming that will be updated with what’s open on both sides?? Keen to pick the highest north facing slopes where I can if there are any recommendations?
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Ta for that @JohnMo. Very interesting - I love snowy info like that! Like when (for reasons I can't recall) Le Fornet above Val D'Isere gets snow, but Tignes and Val D town don't...
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@kitenski, There should be plenty for you to ski. Despite most of the Swiss stuff closing this weekend the pistes still open should be in good shape. The runs down from Trockener Steg to Furgg are all north facing. The runs off Furggsattel are north facing and in any case are on a glacier. The runs off Klein Matterhorn are not north facing except at the lower parts (below that they are mainly west facing) but are so high it makes no difference (they are the ones open all year).
In the Cervinia bowl the only genuinely north facing high slopes are the ones coming off Colle Superiore delle Cime Bianche (top right of Cervinia bowl before you get to the Valtournenche bowl). They put a new life there a couple of years ago so it is a nice place to play around.
The Cielalto slopes just to the right of Breuil-Cervinia are north facing but that is mitigated by the relatively low altitude. It is also a really slow old life.
The Pancheron area - coming up from Plan Tourette, the closest lift to the Matterhorn - has a ridge just to the south of it that keeps the pistes there in pretty good condition.
The Ventina (slope 7) coming off Testa Grigia (the highest point on the Italian side) will be great at the top (it is on a glacier). But it will deteriorate as you head into town. You might be better just skiing down to the big cable car at Cime Bianche Laghi or the north facing chairlift I discussed above.
The pistes under the two higher chairlifts above Plan Maison going up to Theodulpass should be good but the pistes leading to Plan Maison itself will probably not be great. Nor will the pistes below Plan Maison, but those are not great runs in any case.
Valtournenche is open for one more week. I suspect the stuff below Sallette will not be great (even assuming it is open). The slopes immediately below Colle inf. Cime Bianche are not protected. So if you want to do them it is probably best to do them earlier on.
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 snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@JohnMo, thank you, that’s incredibly useful
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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I pulled the trigger too, hoping for some sun along with cold snow is that too much to ask??
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Runs down to zermatt and valtourneche both showing as open, hope to hit them both tomorrow. Expect they will be grim at bottom but doing 2000m plus ascents this late in april is a privilege.
Online information suggesting I need to be getting on the lift back up for return to cervinia at about 2 pm to be sure, is it really that long?
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 You know it makes sense.
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@8611, Even though I have just left I am jealous. It looks lovely weather this week (although snow free).
The run from Klein Mattterhorn to Zermatt can’t be done in one go this week. The Furgg to Furi black piste is not open. When you get to Furgg you will need to get on the small gondola and go up to Schwarzsee. From there you can ski down to Furi and on to Zermatt. Still a very nice run.
Having to get on the gondola from Zermatt at 2 o’clock is excessively prudent advice. The official “last lift” from Zermatt to return to Italy is 3.20. That is doable but a little tight. It takes about 30 minutes to get from Zermatt to Trockener Steg on the small gondola. There you need to transfer to the large gondola. The last one of those is 4 o’clock. It takes about ten minutes to get up to Klein Matterhorn and then the last run off there (which takes you to the border and from there into Cervinia) is quarter past 4. Personally I would want to be on a gondola leaving Zermatt by 3 o’clock.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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@JohnMo, great advice as ever, that's annoying I could see a red all the way to the valley on the live map but it's obviously uphill to that lift. May not be worth it now with the interruption! Will be same to valtourneche of course.
Have a loose plan to set up a thread here where people bag all the highest piste descents in europe so will have to come back. Did it before years ago but want to track it with GPS.
Still I couldn't see the Matterhorn when I was over last easter so worth it just for that view.
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 Poster: A snowHead
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@8611, You can still do the Klein Matterhorn to Breuil-Cervinia uninterrupted. The smallest of the big three descents at “only” 1800m vertical. But still very nice.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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In fact it's probably the nicest one, I did it late one evening after the lifts had closed with alpenglow on mt cervino and surrounds - bliss on empty pistes. Will have to come back in winter to repeat all 3.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Mental note - 10 am is FAR too early for the valtourneche pistes to soften up. Scrape fest all the way down from Kleine Matterhorn. With some rutting on the pistes too boot.
To top it off the run to resort was closed (despite still being marked open on the website) so I didn't even get to bag the long descent.
I suspect theodulpass area or even the valley runs might be the value early on.
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Cervinia is such a great place to say goodbye to the ski season. For the benefit of those to come, as above, Valtourneche very hard at 10AM, suspect by 11 or 12 it would be fine. Headed into Switzerland, cold snow as ever from Kleine Matterhorn down to Trokener Stegg. Soft spring stuff below there. Out of stubbornness I did the valley blue down to Zermatt. Not sure how much longer it will be open, was pretty slow and heavy but who doesn't enjoy a ski down to Zermatt in late Spring with the Matterhorn behind you? Annoyingly the black looked fine and saw people skiing it, though I don't encourage others to do so, at this time of year with wet slides around in particular its worth respecting the pisteurs.
Back up, quick spin to Furgsattel. For some reason ESF Avoriaz are taking it in turns in full uniform and without clients skiing down backwards without poles while doing jumps. Nice style to be fair. Snow fine but not worth the return for time spent on the lift up and the flattish schelpp back to the lift imo. So back up to kleine matterhorn and down Theodulpass whereupon we enter the beautiful bright twilight zone of a lazy booze saturated lunch in Chalet Etoile. ESF Avoriaz also oblige by filling a table nearby.
I come to around 3 hours later on the third chairlift up to Theodulpass with earphones in. The piste off the top is still in great shape at 3 pm, soft but not slushy, gets softer by the time you're in line with the second chair lift but still perfectly acceptable spring snow down to Plan Maison, where I get the last lift up to Plateau Rosa for the run of the day down through Cima Blanche and Cieloalto. The snow at the top of Plateau Rosa is still cold and Wintery even at 4.15. Softer lower but still a pleasure to ski.
Back to the hotel for some excellent wellness with proper hot jacuzzis, saunas, and proper cold kir royales. Off to Girovola for dinner shortly.
Is there a better way to spend the 21st April? We can find out tomorrow!
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Can anyone recommend the best on mountain restaurant on the cervinia side? Not wanting a boozy one, just good food and good coffee!
And also the best most authentic pizza place in cervinia?
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| kitenski wrote: |
Can anyone recommend the best on mountain restaurant on the cervinia side? Not wanting a boozy one, just good food and good coffee!
And also the best most authentic pizza place in cervinia? |
The most famous restaurant in the area is Chalet Etoile. This is just above the Plan Maison lift station. I think the restaurant Bontadini is just as good. It is at the bottom of the last chair lift (of three) up from Plan Maison to Theodulpass. Possibly not quite as good (but not bad) but with unbelievable panoramic views over the whole Cervinia bowl and beyond is Rifugio Teodulo at the top of the chair lift just mentioned re Bontadini.
As a Swiss sider no idea re in town I am afraid.
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Refuges des guides at the top of plan maison is excellent
Grivola is superb and our hotel was ordering pizza there tonight for late arrivals
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Sorry it's at the top of plateau rossa
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Still good skiing to be had for anyone tempted, resort runs soft and fun first thing, then move up progressively during the day as runs soften. Plateau rossa still skiing hard and wintery at the top at 4 pm, decent down to the mid station. Valley run from there not really worth it by that time. Probably best to hit the terrace by 3 or stick to the absolute highest runs.
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Cervinia closes winter season on Sunday next week, what will be open on Monday? Can't find details on their website?
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 snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@snowyc, On the Swiss side the Furggsattel pistes will be open until 22 May. The Klein Matterhorn pistes will be open and indeed will be open throughout the summer. All Swiss pistes are accessible from the Italian side.
The Italian side tries to keep pistes open as long as possible. However they don’t announce it much in advance. Last year it was 3 days before season “closing” when they announced it. They kept the upper pistes open until 2 June last year.
The snow is good. So I would expect they will keep open the upper Ventina piste (number 7) from Test Grigia down to Cime Bianche Laghi. There are three chair lifts up from Plan Maison to Theodulpass. I would expect them to keep open the pistes under the top chair lifts. The middle pistes have a good chance of staying open and it is even possible they will keep the pistes running all the way down to Plan Maison.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Is it just at weekends though @JohnMo? There is certainly enough snow for a few more weeks of action to Plan Maison I would think.
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| 8611 wrote: |
| Is it just at weekends though @JohnMo? There is certainly enough snow for a few more weeks of action to Plan Maison I would think. |
The Italians generally keep the May pistes open on weekdays as well.
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 You know it makes sense.
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That's interesting, I presumed the lifts would only run on weekends. Maybe there is Kleine Matterhorn foot traffic now also. Still seems a pretty big committment to keep those 3 chairlifts running during an unofficial season.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Cervinia:
From May 4th to June 2nd 2026 the following will be open:
Runway 6 and runway 46 with return to Plan Maison .
Bontadini chairlift , operating from 9:00 to 14:45 .
Breuil-Cervinia – Plateau Rosà line , with slope 7 up to Cime Bianche Laghi open until 3pm.
Note :
The opening of the Swiss side (glacier up to Trockener Steg and Furggsattel chairlift) will depend on snow conditions. Skiing on the glacier is usually possible during this period.
More or less exactly as @JohnMo said.
Sounds like they are backing it for a full month!
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 Poster: A snowHead
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Thanks, heading to Cervinia tomorrow!
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@snowyc, the consistently best (still winter) snow was on runs 71 and 72 and lapping that chair all last week. Plenty of cover everywhere we skiied
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Would probably make sense to hit the stuff in cervinia that will close after sunday first. It's been warm since I left but the valley runs (if still open) were fun first thing, then move us higher as it softens up.
Let us know how it is as I am interested in the prospect of a late season trip in years to come, my kids are off next week for instance
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My friend mainly uses the blue slopes in cervinia. We've never been on the other side so I'm thinking about packing everything into backpack and moving to Zermatt early Saturday afternoon and stay there overnight. Then back on Sunday.
How does it sound in terms of weather and ski conditions on the swiss side?
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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If you're doing that be careful on the lift pass. I think if you buy it in Cervinia you have to activate it each morning on the Italian side and will haev to buy another to start the morning in Switzerland.
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That's a very good advice, will check it!
Does the plan sound sensible? I have no idea how it is ok the other side in terms of conditions and availability of nice blues.
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@snowyc, When I looked hotels were lots more expensive in Zermatt vs Cervinia, the same with food. A lot of Zermatt is now shut, we could get the first lift out of Cervinia and be over in Zermatt with 3 lifts.
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I'll check what is open tomorrow and see if it makes sense.
Silly question but will I have a problem to find a rental shop open on Monday?
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If the lifts are running the rental shops will be open, it wouldn't make sense otherwise. Though I suspect it's probably just one or two now. I think think the idea of skiing over and staying the night is nice, i've done ski safaris in dolomites and there's a great sense of travel. But as kitenski says, you can get over to zermatt in an hour and ski everything that's open over there in a half day or so so isn't strictly necessary.
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Nice little snow top up going on at present and for the next couple of days. Snow line is below Plan Maison so for everywhere open it is snow and not rain. Good for May skiing although ironically those out at present were probably banking on more sunshine.
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