Dolomites Questions

A snowHead

First time poster. I see there are tons of posts and questions regarding the Dolomites already so I appologize for being redundant.
I am from the U.S and will be going to Corvara March 3rd- 10th for the first time. I will have 6 days to ski.
Ive found planning this trip much more difficult and overwhelming than anywhere else Ive been.
I am a middle aged , bigger guy that only gets to ski one week a year. My Quads usually give out at about 15,000-17,000 vertical feet a day. I think thats about 5000 vertical meters. I can probably push myself a little beyond that if its milder slopes. So skiing from one Dolomite area to another over great distances will be difficult. So i will probably drive and start my day at the areas I want to ski. I am comfortable on all slopes (until my legs are done) lol.
I want to do the following: Ski the Sella Ronda one day, ski Val Garenas "legendary 8"one day, Alta BAdia One day, Cortina one day. That leaves me two days. I want to do the longest run and most vertical run and the hidden valley .
I am flying into Munich and renting a car there. My questions are as follows:
1. Is there anything I need to know about renting a car or driving to Corvara such as drivers license requirements or tolls?
2. is the hidden valley doable on the day i ski Cortina? Is that connected? Im a little confused on the logistics of this run.
3. Since I'll be doing the more crowded/touristy areas is there a less crowded off the beaten path area you might recommend for one of my days?
4. Are there any particular runs that are a must. Specfic runs I want to ski that arent on the Legendary 8 or The Olympic/World cup runs in Cortina are the Hidden valley (is this on the Sella Ronda) , The Bellunese in Marmolda (is this part of the Sella Ronda, or will I need to make another trip)?
5. I didnt do the half board at my hotel Sassongher because I want to be able to try different restauraunts . Are there any highly recomended in Corvara or easy driving distance for dinner.
6. What are the most recomended on mountain places for lunch at any of the areas Ill be skiing?
7. Are there any must experience apres/party places in case i decide to do so?
8. What ski app seems to work the best there? I have the ikon pass and app and Ski Tracks but wasnt sure if they worked well there.
9. What is the best process for exchanging money? Do Atm machines dispense coins as i understand the smallest Euro bill is $5

A snowHead

Welcome to Snowheads Smile

You'll get loads of answers on this one because 170 odd snow heads have just come back from a trip in that area and most have done the things on your list.

Here are my answers:
1 - You'll need to pay the Austrian tolls for the Austrian motorways to get from the German border to the Brenner pass (don't ask me how my friend sorted it). I'd expect you will need the registration number of your hire car to do this (it may be possible to avoid the motorways others will know).

The Brenner pass will get you from the Innsbruck valley to the Italian side. Best to have some cash ready for this 12 euros each way plus about 3 euros (in coins) for the additional motorway toll at the Italian side. Be aware the Brenner pass toll queues can get very busy at peak times so best to avoid those or give yourself a lot of time for the journey.

There was also very slow traffic for us coming out on the Italian side of the Brenner pass so give your self extra time for the Italian part of the journey. In particular be careful if you are not confident driving the mountain roads at night in bad weather.

2 - Yes its doable but it is a long hectic day (almost certainly more than 5000 vertical meters). My friend and I did it from Arabba (one valley further than Corvara) and managed a few laps of the runs from the top of cable car 26 in Cortina plus a slice of pizza before heading back. It was a long day and we were quite pushed for time on the last lift to Arabba (got there at about 16:43).

Below is what we did to get from Alta Badia without driving, if you drive to Cortina you'll need to do something different but you'll still need a taxi from the bottom of the hidden valley.

If you do it be aware you will not get much time to explore the slopes or relax at Cortina. You will also need to be confident at reading the piste maps (Alta Badia and Cortina combined) so you don't get stuck.

If you do it bring plenty of cash for taxis (don't risk hoping a card will be accepted)

Taxis, you'll need to get a taxi from the bottom of the Alta Badia lift 12 (bottom left of the AB piste map) to the car park at the bottom of the Cortina lift 1 cable car. There will probably be an organised queue of people waiting and a security guard helping organise. If you share with the other people queuing this will be 8 euro and 4 euro back from the foot of the hidden valley (bring more cash than this in case you get stuck).

Once you are at the car park at the bottom of the Cortina lift 1 cable car you can ski the flat blue run 8 to the Cortina number 86 Gondola (you can't ski underneath this lift because it crosses the valley). From the end of the gondola you are in the Cortina ski area. Be aware that spending too much time here will get you stranded (others may know the best backup plan for getting back but I'd expect it to be expensive). Give yourself a lot more time to get back than you took getting there (for reasons below).

When you have finished skiing in Cortina come back on the 86 Gondola in the other direction and follow the super 8 route back to the car park at the bottom of the Cortina lift 1 cable car. Note that on the way out you did this with no lifts but on the way back you will need to take 5 lifts (including a drag) this will take a lot more time on the way back.

Finally take the Cortina lift 1 cable car and ski the hidden valley red run on the other side (take care not to go the wrong way and end up back at the bottom of the cable car). At the end of the day the long hidden valley run will be icy, bumpy and busy so give your self plenty of time.

At the bottom of the hidden valley there is another queue for taxis which cost 4 euros to get back to the foot of the Alta Badia lift 12 (same place you started). There is the option of a horse drag most of the way instead of the taxis (not joking literally live horses). We took a taxi to save time, use your judgment of what you want to do.

From then it's just getting the lifts back to Corvara (make sure you are very clear on when the lifts close).

3. Anywhere off the Sella Ronda will be quieter, there is a route to San Giovani Di Fassa from Val Di Fassa (middle of the piste map) including a bus that might suit. Or you could try the route to the route to the church at the top of Alta Badia lift 62 (bottom right of Alta Badia piste map). Out of the two the church is a lighter day from Corvara.

4. I'd recommend the Marmolada descent first thing in the morning before it gets too bumpy (unless you want bumps). Also black run 51 in Cortina, both runs under the 201 lift in Val Di Fassa (the black is quieter and was lovely). Run 1 and run 17 in Corvara were good from memory.

Marmolada is not on the Sella Ronda directly and will require a number of additional lifts out of Arabba (probably a couple of hours). We did combine it with a Sella Ronda clockwise loop when we did it but it was a relatively long day and might blow your 5000m vertical.

5,6,7 I'm all about the skiing so can't answer these sorry.

Hope you have a good trip Smile

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

Thank you so much for the detailed info.

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I'll take a stab at it...

1) We did a similar trip in 2022. I dimly recall our rental car at MUC came with an Austrian highway vignette already attached to the windshield so we didn't have to worry about the tolls in Austria. Rental car counter might have a car with one so maybe ask? If not, you'll need to stop at or prior to the border on your drive down through Austria. Your US license should be fine. I carry an IDP but don't recall being asked for it at the rental car place in MUC.
2) I wouldn't. Too far. The shuttle up to the pass eats some time and you might not want to rush the trip. You can get there easily from Corvara on the ski slopes at the main base area in town so you wouldn't need to drive. If were me and I had to do both in a day, I'd drive to Falzarego Pass and spot a car there. Ride the tram, do the ski run, and get the taxi or bus back to your car. Then drive to Cortina.
3) We've been three years in a row in March and the crowds were never that bad. We like Seceda which is doable by skiing or you could drive and park at the Col Raiser lift and spend the day there. Drop down into Ortisei and if the snow is ok, take the Resciesa funicular up and ski the path to the mid station to get back to Seceda. Lunch at Troier Hütte...the dumplings are awesome.
4) The Marmolada is great. You can ski from Corvara to Arabba then to the Marmolada but it might be more efficient to drive and park to avoid later morning crowds (and the weather in the pm might be a factor). Decide how your legs are feeling. At the Tofana, we skied the Forcella Rossa (run 51) and it was steep and icy. Glad to have done but not on my list to do again.
5) We really like the restaurants in Corvara. Get a reservation at Adler Keller. Salvan is good. Fornella is a go to. We like the set menu at the Christian which is just below your hotel.
6) Too many to list! If/when you do the Lagazuoi, the Scotoni is good especially if you're a bit early in front of the lunch rush (and if its a nice day, sitting outside should be great). At the end of the run, we've had good lunch at the Capanna Apina as well and not near as crowded.
7) Your room? Ha ha. We'll be in your neighborhood on the end of your trip (arrive the 8th).

Cheers!

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

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Don't forget to ensure your car hire company know you will be going into Austria and Italy!

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

Just got back from the same area, our second trip.

Every taxi took cards. Almost pointlessly we took € in cash, never used, other than leaving tips for hotel maids and waiter.

SkiTracks works well.

I really like the Hotel Posta Zirm for meals. Colfosco on the slopes - Luianta and beneath it (same building) Mathiaskeller are both good. Nearby in the Edelweiss valley Rifugio Edelweiss is popular but with table hogging by groups.

Take €4 in cash for the Lagazuoi horses!

After all it is free

On mountain restaurants - its easier to tell you the ones I "didn't" enjoy .... Rifugio Ciampai in Alta Badia , and a couple of places I cant recall the names of at the pordoi pass - that's is .

Ciampai lures you in by grilling meat outside ... but it was expensive and not as tasty as it smelled.

Everywhere else - lovely !

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ATMs do not dispense coins. Smallest note you are likely to get is a €20 from an ATM - some will have €10s, but not all.

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Car hire at Munich - the poster above was lucky it had a vignette sticker. Its all done online at ASFINAG now, you can buy the vignette as soon as you know the registration. The car hire companies won't do it for you

If you need change just pay cash for a coffee with a larger note. If you pay by card but want to leave a cash tip just give them the note and tell them how much change you want

1 star Michelin restaurant in Corvara (although its 15 years since I have been and it was fab) https://www.lastuademichil.it/en/

for the car you must have a credit card (as usual) and you have to say that you will take the car outside Germany, and consider if you want the extra insurance etc. Didnt do it since over 10 years so i do not know if something changed with the insur. policy and which is the best option...
About the Vignette (so is the name for Austria toll tickets) you can buy it online, or you could find it in almost every Gas Station before and after the Borders.

You know it makes sense.

@msutherland, to add to others Ive done the sella circuit both ways, clockwise last Jan when snow wasnt in great condition as it was warm from Alba Di Canazei area, ski tracks tells me ski vertical was 4185m, and distance 28.5kms. I found both ways fun, but always felt I was on a tight schedule to get round which made it feel more like a task to complete, rather than enjoy, the previous time anti-clockwise in late March, due to doing a 360 circuit I found any south facing slopes soft and cut up, just the type of snow I struggle with especially as I get tired.
I’m going back this March, I probably won’t do the Sella, but enjoy the areas off the circuit doing any south facing stuff before noon and areas which are less skied and generally in better condition.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

@msutherland, Welcome to Snowheads.

You might find these handy:
Interactive ski map from Dolomitie. A bit cumbersome, and absolutely zero use on a phone screen, but usable on a laptop.
https://www.dolomitisuperski.com/en/Live-info/Ski-map/Arabba-Marmolada

Handy piste map.
https://openskimap.org/#10.34/46.4993/11.8069

It's a shame google maps have removed ski lifts, as that used to be the best option.

I wouldn't recommend trying the hidden valley on the same day as Cortina. You will have to ski Cinque Tori and the HV afterwards, which severely limits the time you will have in Cortina. Plus, both will be badly cut up in places by the time you go home.
Skylink 15 minutes, Cinque Tori and HV 90 minutes, return to Corvara, 40 minutes.

The hidden valley is easily doable from Corvara, and well within your vertical limits.
Take the Col Alto bubble over to Alta Badia and ski down to Armentarola (cruising blues), taxi to Falzarego pass (8 Euros, cash). Well worth doing a circuit of Cinque Tori at the same time. Take the cable car and ski the (right hand option) red back down, taking the left fork down the valley and across the road. Ski the Cinque tori circuit and return to the cable car and back up. The left option takes you down the hidden valley. Horse tow 4 Euros.
Short drag lift to get height to ski to San Cassiano, and back over Alta Badia.

Avoid this on a Sunday as it can get very busy with day trippers (as does the whole SR in good weather).

As you will have a car, you will be best driving for the Cortina trip. There is a car park at the top of the Skline, at Bai de dones. Which takes about the same time as driving down. This will allow you to stay in Cortina all day, with the only time restriction being the skyline.
Recommend the Forcella Rossa from Tofana.

Marmolada can easily be done in about 4-5 hours. Only worth the trip if visibility is good.

Val di Fassa is off the SR, quieter and has the Vulcano black. Ski through Arabba, over Passo Pordoi, take the lift that goes up to the top of the left hand ridge (meets Gondola from Canazei), take the new cable car down to Alba, and the gondola up the other side. Up and over the bowl, down the valley and over into Val di Fassa.
The black run back under the Gondola to Alba is fantastic. (you get a great view on the way up).

Santa Croce (via La Villa) has a couple of nice red runs. (take the Gran Risa red for the best link), but the Black is a great run also).

If your legs can take it, then the Sasslong runs are close to Val Gardina. If not, take a slight detour and do them on a circuit of the SR.
Keep a lookout for SR alternatives (slightly smaller signs) as these can be less busy.

Snowheads have their resident experts on where to eat in the Dolomites. No doubt one will be along shortly.
Probably best requesting recommendations in specific areas.

I use ski tracks and find it works well.
As for funds, You might find that some cash machines charge a fee.
I always take cash with me for everyday use, with the option of card for meals etc.

It's a beautiful area, and some fantastic skiing (much more than your average US resort). You will have a ball.

A snowHead

@msutherland,
Cool

Ikon: I just spent a week on my Ikon pass in the Dolomites. Went to ticket office, showed them my account with ID on my phone (don't have a physical pass) and was given a physical Dolomiti Superski pass (states Ikon on it). I used the paper map (luddite that I am) with the Dolomiti app, not the Ikon app.

A snowHead

I was in the area in January for the first time skiing, although I've previously cycled there in summer. A few thoughts from me...

1. Are you sure that you want to drive a car for at least 4 hours after a transatlantic flight? It may be snowing and some Austrian motorways have horrendous congestion this winter due to roadworks in critical bottlenecks. Personally, I'd consider swallowing the cost for a taxi. If you drive, make sure your car is equipped with winter tyres or chains.

5. Hotel Sassongher is a little off the beaten track, so you'll have a decent walk into town or you'll need a taxi. The local restaurant scene is incredible, being predominantly Tyrolean (ie Austrian) but with a heavy Italian influence and hints of French cuisine. La Perla is the far end of Corvara for you, but it's a must-do: incredible escargots, freshly made pasta with butter and truffle, an awesome wine list at less than half London prices in a cosy panelled dining room. Adlerkeller is great, too - much more Tyrolean in a bustling, cosy basement. But I've never had a bad meal anywhere in Corvara.

Remember that this is Italy. It might be a ski resort, but Italians dress up for dinner; the dress code is nearer Dubai than Vail. You won't be denied entry in a scruffy pair of jeans and slobby t-shirt, but you will feel and look very out of place.

6. Don't worry about a destination; just choose something that looks good at a time that suits you. Anywhere you stop will be better than the best place you've ever had lunch in North America. Take your sunglasses and enjoy the sunshine like a local - Italians like to relax stylishly in the sun after a meal. More important is what you eat: you need to try food that's less common in the USA like polenta, knödel, spätzle.

7. L'Murin Corvara was rammed midweek in early January; it will be properly bouncing in March. In summer, the Iceberg bar is the place to hang out, so I guess that's also true in winter. Make sure you don't stick to boring drinks from international brands. Try some weissbier, some dunkelbier and the local pilsner. You must have a bombardino before you leave, and you have to drink schnapps.

8. Skiline links to your ski pass and provides you with data from the lift gates.

9. You don't need money. Credit cards are accepted everywhere, including taxis.

Whatever the season, northern Italy is one of the finest places in the world for a holiday. Enjoy. Personally, I like it so much that I have two more Italian ski trips planned this winter.

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

Thnk you everyone for all the help. You are an awesome group of people! Hopefully I get a chance to meet some of you someday. Thank you again.

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@msutherland, A couple of recommendations for mountain restaurants near where you are based:
Col Alto which is at the top of the gondola with the same name (lift #1 out of corvara). Had spare ribs and crispy polenta there last week and it was one of the best meals I've had on mountain.
Utia Col Pradat which is at the top of the black run above Colfosco
In both cases there are both self service and waiter-served restaurants and I sugeest you go for the latter. Best to make a booking to ensure you get a table.

Also, note re the Hidden Valley that there can be long queues for the cable car to get access. We queued for 30 minutes last week and I expect it could be longer on a nice day at peak times.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

"Also, note re the Hidden Valley that there can be long queues for the cable car to get access. We queued for 30 minutes last week and I expect it could be longer on a nice day at peak times."

this can be true, but spend the time looking at the shear cliff face. This was the front line in the first world war, think about the soldiers engaged in trench warfare in the cliff you are looking at, in winter.

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is it posible to get to any of the World War I tunnels on skis?

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10,000 men (from all sides) were killed in avalanches up there....

After all it is free

This is a great read which covers the action that went on in the area. The Italian officer class and government of the time, do not cover themselves in glory to put it mildly.

https://www.waterstones.com/book/the-white-war/mark-thompson//9780571223343?sv1=affiliate&sv_campaign_id=259955&awc=3787_1740001394_459d9bc62a85e68c75b989ca7d1f9cf9&utm_source=259955&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=Genie+Shopping+CSS

Yes, I read that book some years ago - as part of my effort to educate myself about Italy, having acquired an Italian grandson, who is now 13. It's well worth a read. It was rather by chance, IIRC, that the Italians joined "our side". And yes, they were poorly led, for sure. But it's easy to forget that Italy had existed for little more than half a century when the war started. Many Italian soldiers could not speak Italian......

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@Origen, No 'chance' about it. It was a stone cold exercise in 'what's in it for us?'. The dangled carrots were the South Tyrol and Trieste. Germany/Austria/Hungary also offered up the South Tyrol, but the UK/France/Russia alliance managed to convince the conniving Italian government that the German lot would renege on the deal should they win.

The Germans were tied up for a while massacring Italians from the South of the country whom had no clue what they were fighting for and that prevented them from adding weight to the Western front. Which was the whole point of the exercise.

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@msutherland, just on the car thing. Be careful if you are hiring from Sixt as their standard hire is now without a CDW, I believe this is common in the US but not in Europe, so you might need to check what your insurance covers. They do offer other options (at a cost naturally) just be careful otherwise you might find yourself responsible for €75,000 worth of BMW or Mercedes! Should be no issue with a US licence. Do mention you are travelling to Italy as there will be an additional "crossing borders" charge it is just another way of keeping the headline cost down but it might cause issues if you dont.

No tolls in Germany (or speed limits on much of the Autobahn), there is in Austria and Italy. Austria you can pay online but in your case probably just as easy to buy a toll sticker (vignette) at a service station on the way - you can pay by card, you will need a 10 day one to cover the return. There is also a separate toll for the Austrian section of the Brenner pass, booths south of Innsbruck again can pay by card. In Italy another toll, collect a ticket from the booths at Sterzing (a bit south of the pass) and pay when you exit, again can pay by card even if most Italians dont.

The car will come with winter tyres (legal requirement in Germany), assuming you are staying in the village / valley extremely unlikely to need snow chains.

Not sure why you would need coins, smallest Euro note is €5 but probably wont get that from a cash machine. There are still a few spots that are cash only (smaller mountain huts etc) but generally cards accepted everywhere. Probably worth having €50 just in case but not beyond that. Cash machines in the arrivals terminal at the airport.

A couple of intros to European skiing for Americans by Americans

http://youtube.com/v/39s0xEyXsdA

http://youtube.com/v/s4cMii-0dYE

I’m surprised it’s not yet been mentioned, but if you’re chasing vertical, consider a day in Kronplatz.
From Corvara, head to alta Badia and navigate the vortex to la villa. From there there is a ski bus (included with your lift pass).

La villa is also the way to Santa Croce (already mentioned). Easy cruise skiing. Head up to the church at the top. There are 2 huts at the mud station as you come down. Skiers left is Utia le, which is really very good.

You know it makes sense.

@msutherland, Welcome to snowHeads

Check out YouTube videos by Igor at the Ustaria Posta, which is in Badia, for some excellent tips for getting around. He's done a day trip to Cortina in this one:
http://youtube.com/v/KuIDJ8oryLE (hidden valley from about 39 minutes, though he's not included the horse tow)
From Corvara, you would join his route at around 3 minutes into the video (top of Ciampai, lift 9).

The trip to Cortina on the Skyline Cortina lift is on my list of things to do - it wasn't built last time I went to Cortina from Arabba so we had to make a day trip by bus. Now the only vehicle transport you need is the taxi from Armentarola to Falzarego Cool

Slightly jealous. Have a great trip! snowHead

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

A snowHead

@msutherland, Another quick comment on Cinque Tori.

It's effectively, a one way (clockwise) circular route, which most people just follow blindly. There are however, a number of very good runs that hardly get any traffic as a result.

Once you ski past these, you miss the option. I'd recommend taking the time to loop each lift and ski the runs adjacent to them.

If you take both lifts up from the skyline to Rifugio Averau, it's a fantastic long run back down, with 3 or 4 (red and blue) options for the bottom section.
Also both the runs either side of the Poma lift Col Galina.
The circular route takes a right turn just below Averau, but the red down to Fedare is also worth a loop.

A snowHead

Thank you to everyone that offered suggestions. I arrive Tuesday and will be skiing by Wed. The weather unfortunaltey looks like it its going to warm up quite a bit. Im still going to make the most of it. All your advice has been a big help in planning, Thank you. If any of you are there from the 4th-11th hit me up and Ill buy you some thank you drinks.

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

Hi. At least it’ll be bone dry with no rain.

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@msutherland, we should arrive on the 8th. Maybe have a beverage and a nosh on the 10th. Cheers!

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

@Brian in SLC, that’s either very forward or doesn’t mean what you think it means Shocked

http://youtube.com/v/cZ6Tewseoy4?feature=shared
A a very nsfw scene from a great film, you have been warned

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Have a great week! Let us know how you get on with the Legendary 8. My advice would be to start with La Longia and really enjoy all 10k of it - maybe stop for a coffee halfway down - without stressing about getting through them all in one day. The views are amazing everywhere but particularly sublime at the top of this run, then there's a feeling of really travelling as you descend - watch out for the road you have to traverse around one corner (usually covered in snow, but not guaranteed!)

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

Arrived in Colfosco yesterday afternoon after a slow drive from Venice. I had no idea that Italians were capable of driving soooo slooowly!
Played on Colfosco side first thing and up to Passo Gardena, and down to Corvara and over to San Cassiano. The red down to there was lush. Snow was good everywhere up to just before 3.
Piate 1 back to Corvara wasn't pleasant and then slushy around Colfosco.

This really is the ultimate cruisy area, easy, easy blues everywhere with the odd more interesting red thrown in.

Will be interesting to see how we find Arraba and Val Gardena, but so far the lift system isn't a patch on the 3 valleys, and nor are the gradients.

Scenery is better though, as are the prices!

After all it is free

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