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Milky Way skiing advice

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
We are currently in Serre Chevalier. I wondered what people think of the Milky Way ski area? For next season we are thinking about booking somewhere for a 5 or 6 week. We will have our car, winter tyres and chains and are used to driving in the mountains. Both reasonable on piste skiers, and my wife starting off piste after enjoying Fernie, Canadian “piste bashing” wink for the season last year
How snow sure
How good off piste
Which resort to stay in, skiing much more important than partying
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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I’ve only stayed in Sauze before, I’m going back this March for a fifth time. I very much like Via Lattea, though it certainly does have its limitations. The Sauze end has too many drag lifts and slow fixed speed chairs, and the rest of resort has its fair share of them too. But overall I think it’s a really great ski area, it is rarely too busy and lift lines are small, and the food and drink on the mountain is great.

Sauze is by all accounts the busiest of the villages with a full array of boozy apres pubs, cosy wine bars, and a range of very good eateries. I haven’t stayed in the other villages so can’t really comment on those, but I very much like Sauze.

For on piste and off piste, I love the area above Sansicario. There’s an excellent collection of long, wide reds and blacks with an abundance of enjoyable off piste that is fully lift accessed and typically in between the runs. It doesn’t seem to get tracked out too quickly either. In general the pisted runs across all of Via Lattea are very good.

For snow record, Sauze is only at just over 1500m so resort runs can get slushy / bare late in the season. But there’s a lot of cannons now and they do a great job of piste management when snowfall is limited. Sestriere is above 2000m and Montgenevre not far off that, and the Monty end off resort seems to get best best of the snow.

You say you’re spending 5-6 weeks. If it were me, I’d probably go for a bit of variety and split the time by spending some of the time in Sauze / Sestriere and some staying in Monty / Claviere. While VL is a big ski area, getting from Sauze / Sestriere to Monty / Claviere is a bit of a mission, especially going towards France where there’s 3 slow chairs in a row to get out of Cesana which seem to take forever, then a bit more work to get all the way to France. On a good day it takes at least 2 hours to get from one side to the other, similar back, so there’s not really an opportunity to make a full day of it in a different area as you need to make sure you get back home in time. The Sansicario to Sauze link can also be prone to closing due to wind, which means a download to Cesana then a bus to Oulx, which can be a bit of a pain as the ski bus timetables aren’t very well joined up.

I really enjoy Sauze, it’s got a nice lively vibe to it with enough going on to suit all tastes. I’d probably say Sestriere is the best location as it’s a bit more central to the other villages and getting over to France. In terms of aesthetics I find it a bit of a concrete jungle, but there’s very good skiing to be had. As said earlier, I don’t know what it’s like of an evening as I have never stayed there, when I ate lunch there in resort I wasn’t a huge fan of it, but I’m sure others will have a better idea of it than I do.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, I'd like to know more about Serre Chevalier LOL.

We are going to be staying in Montgenevre in about 6 weeks... based in Montgenevre but I will get the Via Lattea International pass so that I can get around. I do know I'm going to meet a friend for one day (local who lives near Prali) and he suggested Sestriere as he really likes the skiing there. Sestriere is supposed to be snowsure and I can tell you right now Montgenevre is saying 200 cm base in the village which is phenomenal. Montgenevre is at 1860m so a nice high base. Not sure any of this is helpful for you.

I am curious... as someone who will be based in Montgenevre near the Obelisk, I plan on taking the bus one day to Serre Chevalier. My family will have the car. I know a bus runs from Montgenevre to Briancon but are there buses that dump you off at any of the lifts?
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Mike Bennett wrote:
We are currently in Serre Chevalier. I wondered what people think of the Milky Way ski area? For next season we are thinking about booking somewhere for a 5 or 6 week. We will have our car, winter tyres and chains and are used to driving in the mountains. Both reasonable on piste skiers, and my wife starting off piste after enjoying Fernie, Canadian “piste bashing” wink for the season last year
How snow sure
How good off piste
Which resort to stay in, skiing much more important than partying


1. Snowsure? Montgenevre has a good snow record, but the Italian side can be a bit erratic, so there's quite a bit of snowmaking to get it through the dry spells. Though it's currently dumping 60-70cm in Sestriere as a Retour de l'Est rolls through.

2. Off Piste? Not my speciality, but if there's been a dump, I expect there are good spots, between the pistes and away from them, though it won't necessarily be secured like the inbounds N American stuff, you will probably need a local guide to keep you safe.

3. Base? If you have a car and don't mind commuting I'd say maybe Cesana Torinese or even Oulx. The accommodation will be cheaper off the hill. From there you can go one way, either drive or lifts, to Claviere/Montgenevre, the other way to Sauze & Sestriere and a third way to Bardonecchia (not fully included on Milky Way Passes)

The season pass gives you 3 days of 50% discount for Bardonecchia and 9 free days at Grande Galaxie resorts in France, but as that would involve driving over the Montgenevre Pass and the Col du Lautaret, it might not be worth pursuing from the Italian side.

https://www.vialattea.it/en/skipass/?loc=stagionale

The Milky Way is definitely a good place for intermediates for a week or two if the snow is good, but not sure there's quite enough for 5 or 6 weeks though.

You might need somewhere with lots of ski areas in commuting distance on one season pass.

There are a few in Austria like the Salzburg Super Ski Card https://www.superskicard.com/en/ski-areas.html and the Snow Card Tirol https://snowcard.tirol.at/

The only place in Italy where there is a large concentration of skiing on one liftpass is the Dolomites, though it's a longer drive from the UK and it's hard to reach all the areas from one base, though staying in Val di Fassa put you in striking distance of around half the total kms. You might need another base to cover more of it. https://www.dolomitisuperski.com/en/home


Last edited by You need to Login to know who's really who. on Tue 24-01-23 23:44; edited 7 times in total
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ItaloSkier wrote:
Well, I'd like to know more about Serre Chevalier LOL.

We are going to be staying in Montgenevre in about 6 weeks... based in Montgenevre but I will get the Via Lattea International pass so that I can get around. I do know I'm going to meet a friend for one day (local who lives near Prali) and he suggested Sestriere as he really likes the skiing there. Sestriere is supposed to be snowsure and I can tell you right now Montgenevre is saying 200 cm base in the village which is phenomenal. Montgenevre is at 1860m so a nice high base. Not sure any of this is helpful for you.

I am curious... as someone who will be based in Montgenevre near the Obelisk, I plan on taking the bus one day to Serre Chevalier. My family will have the car. I know a bus runs from Montgenevre to Briancon but are there buses that dump you off at any of the lifts?


I'm pretty sure the bus goes down near the Prorel cabin lift, the Charles de Gaulle stop is the nearest. I got off at the top of the old town to do some sightseeing one afternoon though.

https://storage.googleapis.com/is-wp-22-prod/uploads-prod/2021/12/ZOU05_LigneG_BRIANCON_MONTGENEVRE_a_compter_du_4_decembre_2021.pdf

It is a paid public bus service (actually a 52 seater coach when I took it) as opposed to a ski bus, so not exactly sure how you get on taking skis and ski boots on board?? Maybe someone else who's tried it will know
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luigi wrote:
The only place in Italy where there is a large concentration of skiing on one liftpass is the Dolomites,


There are a few others Smile

1. Aosta Valley covers the entire valley - over a dozen ski areas including big names like La Thuile / La Rosiere, Courmayeur, Cervinia, Monterosa Ski

2. Skirama covers around 10 areas including Madonna di Campiglio-Folgarida-Marilleva, Ponte de Legno-Tonale, Folgaria, Pejo (OK, partially in the Dolomites!)

3. Alta Valtellina covers Livigno, Bormio, Santa Caterina, Cima Piazzi (this is the nucleus of our upcoming March hol)

4. FVG pass (I think - some years since I researched it) covers several ski areas east of the Dolomites (Julian Alps?)

These are all available as weekly / few day passes. If you are willing to get a season pass I think there is also one covering all of the Lombardy region. Possibly also one for Veneto?
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Just got back from a 4 day trip to Sauze and I have mixed feelings about the place. I thought the town itself was lovely and the apres ski was lively enough, we really enjoyed it. The food was amazing both in the town and on the mountain and excellent value for money, €5 for a large beer and no more than €10 for a pizza or bowl of pasta. The skiing itself was enjoyable and we managed to ski most of the Italian side but didn't manage to make it to Montgeneve. Claviere was our favorite area as it was so quiet and we could ski runs and not see another person although it was a bit of a faff getting there and back. For me the main issue was the lift system. Getting out of the resort required several slow chair lifts and once in the ski area things didn't improve. I didn't see a lift with a canopy and with temperatures at minus 12 to 15 it was cold!! I also found the signposting virtually non existent which was frustrating. Maybe I'm being biased because we usually ski in Saalbach where the lift system is the best I've ever experienced. That being said the lift ticket prices were very reasonable so I guess you get what you pay for. Would I go back to Sauze, probably but only for a long weekend, not sure my patience could stand a full week there.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Seems like the lifts in Sauze are a common complaint... can't speak for it myself but I've heard that's an issue. Montgenevre supposed to be better but can't confirm, yet. May need to explore this a bit more...

https://www.skiresort.info/ski-resort/via-lattea-sestrieresauze-doulxsan-sicarioclavieremontgenevre/ski-lifts/

By the way, can someone explain the rationale behind a Telemix lift?
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14yo is going to Sauze on the school trip in 3 weeks, we'll hear her view on it. She's used to Andorra and Canada, and just experienced Formigal with us, so she should start to have a reference for comparison. I'm hoping she'll be in the advanced not medium group like her sister was and will be taken on a wider tour of the area rather than kept close to home. Pleased the snow depth has picked up since the start of the year.
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Was reading through the Powderhounds reviews and saw these two bits...

"We rate Montgenèvre in France. Whilst it costs extra to get it included on a Via Lattea lift pass, the consistently deep snowpack & wonderful terrain diversity are worth it. The lift system is the most modern & efficient in a region not renowned for it. (Old, crappy lifts are a great way to keep the lift pass prices down at the ridiculously cheap level, but Montgenevre bucks the Via Lattea trend)"

Sauze gets a special mention...

"The Via Lattea has the best value lift tickets in Western Europe, fantastic larch forest tree skiing, quality high altitude snow, huge off piste, a ski school a with a excellent reputation for looking after children and wonderful accessibility by fast train from Paris or Milan/Turin.

All this is let down by some seriously pushy weekend lift queues, low quality ski lifts and a few poorly designed lift and piste choke points at critical locations (in Sauze d'oulx particularly). "
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denfinella wrote:
luigi wrote:
The only place in Italy where there is a large concentration of skiing on one liftpass is the Dolomites,


There are a few others Smile

1. Aosta Valley covers the entire valley - over a dozen ski areas including big names like La Thuile / La Rosiere, Courmayeur, Cervinia, Monterosa Ski

2. Skirama covers around 10 areas including Madonna di Campiglio-Folgarida-Marilleva, Ponte de Legno-Tonale, Folgaria, Pejo (OK, partially in the Dolomites!)

3. Alta Valtellina covers Livigno, Bormio, Santa Caterina, Cima Piazzi (this is the nucleus of our upcoming March hol)

4. FVG pass (I think - some years since I researched it) covers several ski areas east of the Dolomites (Julian Alps?)

These are all available as weekly / few day passes. If you are willing to get a season pass I think there is also one covering all of the Lombardy region. Possibly also one for Veneto?


All worthwhile areas for a week or two, so thanks for mentioning, but for the purposes of recommendations for a 5/6 week trip for the OP and to rival the Austrian offerings, I suppose it depends how you define the words 'large' and 'concentration'.

1. Aosta Valley is large in that it claims 800km (and there has always been serious controversy over Courmayeur's piste km claims), but it definitely isn't concentrated, mostly hidden deep up side valleys. Unless you stay near Aosta and are willing to commute up to an hour each morning, it's not much use.

2. Skirama falls down on large (for these purposes) with 380km, you would ski that out in 10days. And you're right, it is partially in the (Brenta) Dolomites. wink

3. Alta Valtellina, just a few smaller areas plus Livigno, so even less at 200km

4. I couldn't find figures on FVG, but I'd imagine less still. Tarvisio/Monte Lussari, Sella Nevea/Bovec and a couple more, so prob less than 100km?

5. Lombardia is claiming 900km, which sounds highly dubious to me. Maybe all those sub-20km areas add up, but concentration & accessibility it definitely lacks. Where would you even stay to make use of it? Livigno is the biggest area, but right out on a limb over a mountain pass, should be in Switzerland really Laughing Laughing

6. I couldn't find anything on the Veneto, but as the main ski areas in Veneto are on Dolomiti Superski, I should imagine the latter would be a better bet anyway.


Last edited by snowHeads are a friendly bunch. on Thu 26-01-23 15:28; edited 1 time in total
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
I love the Dolomiti so definitely would give that a thumbs up especially if based somewhere like Selva which is very interconnected.

Honestly... I really liked staying in Argentiere a few years ago... you have easy access to Grands Montets, La Tour/Vallorcine, Chamonix, Les Houches... you can drive through the tunnel to Courmayeur.... Saint Gervais Les Bains in reasonable to reach (Argentiere to San Nicolas de Veroce is 45ish minutes)... the 4 Vallees in Switzerland is about an hour... I mean, its not bad. If you want a "bigger town" stay in Chamonix otherwise we really liked Argentiere. Quieter but next to a killer mountain. Have not been since 2018. When I went you could take the tram all the way to the top. Not sure if that has been fixed.
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luigi wrote:
All worthwhile areas for a week or two, so thanks for mentioning, but for the purposes of recommendations for a 5/6 week trip for the OP and to rival the Austrian offerings, I suppose it depends how you define the words 'large' and 'concentration'.


Fair point, well made. Though if the OP enjoyed Fernie for a whole season and was considering the Via Lattea (probably 250-300km ish in real terms), then a few hundred km might be enough.
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You know it makes sense.
You only have to look at the map of Italian ski resorts here...

https://www.bergfex.com/italien/

...and you can see that the Italian side of the Alps is huge and the ski resorts are pretty spaced out, except for that concentration in the Dolomites centred on the Sella Ronda.

Whereas looking at Austria, the resorts are way more concentrated and generally a lot more accessible along the deep flat glaciated valleys. Tyrol alone has 131, more than S Tyrol, Trentino, Friuli, Veneto & Lombardy combined!

https://www.bergfex.com/oesterreich/
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denfinella wrote:
luigi wrote:
All worthwhile areas for a week or two, so thanks for mentioning, but for the purposes of recommendations for a 5/6 week trip for the OP and to rival the Austrian offerings, I suppose it depends how you define the words 'large' and 'concentration'.


Fair point, well made. Though if the OP enjoyed Fernie for a whole season and was considering the Via Lattea (probably 250-300km ish in real terms), then a few hundred km might be enough.


Yeah, all good. At least the OP has an embarrassment of options now. snowHead
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
@Mike Bennett Tbh, i think most of the ‘large’ ski areas are a slight disappointment, whether it’s Tignes/val, via Lattea, sella Ronda, Weiss ring (St Anton/Lech/zur)….. if you like _skiing_ (rather than riding lifts), a big area isn’t necessarily better. As a somewhat biased Sauze fan, there is a lot of easy access, low risk, off piste, that, if conditions are good, will keep most aspirant offpisters happy for as long as the powder holds…. In 5 weeks, you could scope out and learn most of the good stashes in Sauze and Sestriere…. Fernie it aint, but, you don’t get the powder hounds in Sauze….,

Throw in a few coach rides to montgenevre to make the most of that area…and for when you get bored, some ski trips to Claviere (in between Sauze and MontG, and thus quite quiet)… and you’ll fill 5 weeks easy. Plus you’ll get to know your preferred mountain restaurant (and the ones not on the map),…. As I said, I’m a bit biased….. tbh if the snow is good, Sauze punches well above… but its not a high resort…..
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hamilton wrote:
@Mike Bennett Tbh, i think most of the ‘large’ ski areas are a slight disappointment, whether it’s Tignes/val, via Lattea, sella Ronda, Weiss ring (St Anton/Lech/zur)….. if you like _skiing_ (rather than riding lifts), a big area isn’t necessarily better. As a somewhat biased Sauze fan, there is a lot of easy access, low risk, off piste, that, if conditions are good, will keep most aspirant offpisters happy for as long as the powder holds…. In 5 weeks, you could scope out and learn most of the good stashes in Sauze and Sestriere…. Fernie it aint, but, you don’t get the powder hounds in Sauze….,

Throw in a few coach rides to montgenevre to make the most of that area…and for when you get bored, some ski trips to Claviere (in between Sauze and MontG, and thus quite quiet)… and you’ll fill 5 weeks easy. Plus you’ll get to know your preferred mountain restaurant (and the ones not on the map),…. As I said, I’m a bit biased….. tbh if the snow is good, Sauze punches well above… but its not a high resort…..


I guess it depends what you want from an extended trip. Adventure, relaxation or a mixture of both.

Getting to know an area more intimately, discovering its secrets and revelling in the familiarity is an appealing thought.

But, I'm bored easily and have wanderlust, so being confined to a limited ski area for weeks on end when I know there's so much more to explore would frustrate me! Laughing

I'd love the idea of one of those Austrian Ski Cards where you could likely ski on different runs at different areas every day for 5/6 weeks if you chose 2 or 3 bases carefully.

On the Salzburg Super Ski Card, I'd envisage staying some where like Altenmarkt and exploring the enormous amount within 30 mins drive, so the entire Ski Amade, Dachstein , Schladming, Obertauern, Filzmoos, Hochkonig, etc, then moving on to somewhere near Zell am See, like Bruck and exploring from Gastein Valley, to Zell/Kaprun, Saalbach, Kitzbuhel, Zillertal Arena and all the smaller places in between.

On the Tyrol Card, the possibilities would take a whole season, but maybe using St Johann as a base, you could explore everywhere in the Kitzbuhel Alps inc SkiWelt, then moving onto Zillertal, you could visit the many areas along that valley, then moving over to western Tyrol, things are a bit more scattered, but a base near Imst or Landeck might allow visits to Ischgl/Galtur, Serfaus/Fiss/Ladis, Nauders as well as the famous Otztal resorts like Solden & Obergurgl.

If it had to be Italy, the Dolomites are fairly familiar to me already, but for someone new to the area, a base for 3 weeks in mid Val di Fassa around Pozza, Vigo, Soraga or Moena would allow a thorough exploration of around 700km of skiing amidst spectacular scenery at the numerous worthwhile ski areas within 20-30mins drive along Val di Fassa, Val di Fiemme and up around the Sella Ronda. A second base would be more tricky to pick as the remaining areas on the Dolomiti Superski pass are a bit more scattered. I think as a real contrast, I might plump for somewhere in the German-speaking (and looks like Austria) Pustertal such as Toblach from where you are equidistant to unmissable Cortina, the technical masterpiece Kronplatz, languid Drei Zinnen and a number of smaller areas. Or you could stay a week in Cortina, or somewhere cheaper like S Vito or Borca, before moving North to somewhere in Pustertal near Kronplatz for the final week or two. The holiday would definitely end with a day or two in Venice. Cool

Maybe the fantasy wouldn't live up to the reality and I would find I had bitten off more than I could chew, but I would envisage taking a day or two per week for relaxation on such a long trip!! snowHead
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Quote:

For next season we are thinking about booking somewhere for a 5 or 6 week.


If you like that part of France why not stay in Briancon? Then you can easily access Serre Che and Montgenevre. La Grave and the Queyras nearby too....
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luigi wrote:
But, I'm bored easily and have wanderlust, so being confined to a limited ski area for weeks on end when I know there's so much more to explore would frustrate me! Laughing


Yeah I'm with you on that. It's been a while since I've stayed in a single ski area for a full week! And the smaller areas are often just as good as (or better than) the larger domains for a single day.

I'm in Praz de Lys today. 50km of pistes, €23 day pass, notably quiet slopes, stunning views and better value restaurants than the nearby Portes du Soleil.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
denfinella wrote:
luigi wrote:
But, I'm bored easily and have wanderlust, so being confined to a limited ski area for weeks on end when I know there's so much more to explore would frustrate me! Laughing


Yeah I'm with you on that. It's been a while since I've stayed in a single ski area for a full week! And the smaller areas are often just as good as (or better than) the larger domains for a single day.

I'm in Praz de Lys today. 50km of pistes, €23 day pass, notably quiet slopes, stunning views and better value restaurants than the nearby Portes du Soleil.


Reminds me... I've been awfully curious about Puy St. Vincent...

https://www.bergfex.com/puy-st-vincent/panorama/
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@Dav, How do you find your accommodation with Sauz? We'd like to go for a week and check it out in 2024 and I'm struggling to work out the best way to find an apartment. Any advice would be great.
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@ALC2572, we found ours through booking.com.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
some on airBnB too
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Thanks @Dav, @pam w,
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denfinella wrote:
luigi wrote:
But, I'm bored easily and have wanderlust, so being confined to a limited ski area for weeks on end when I know there's so much more to explore would frustrate me! Laughing


Yeah I'm with you on that. It's been a while since I've stayed in a single ski area for a full week! And the smaller areas are often just as good as (or better than) the larger domains for a single day.

I'm in Praz de Lys today. 50km of pistes, €23 day pass, notably quiet slopes, stunning views and better value restaurants than the nearby Portes du Soleil.


Glad I'm not the only one! Sounds like you found a hidden gem there! I was tempted when we stayed in Morillon once, not far from there.
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ItaloSkier wrote:
denfinella wrote:
luigi wrote:
But, I'm bored easily and have wanderlust, so being confined to a limited ski area for weeks on end when I know there's so much more to explore would frustrate me! Laughing


Yeah I'm with you on that. It's been a while since I've stayed in a single ski area for a full week! And the smaller areas are often just as good as (or better than) the larger domains for a single day.

I'm in Praz de Lys today. 50km of pistes, €23 day pass, notably quiet slopes, stunning views and better value restaurants than the nearby Portes du Soleil.


Reminds me... I've been awfully curious about Puy St. Vincent...

https://www.bergfex.com/puy-st-vincent/panorama/


Did a week at Puy-St-Vincent in January. I'm an experienced skier, wife and kids are beginners so did lessons. Good resort for first timers, I managed to cover nearly all of the pistes on day 1 whilst they were in ski school so was hungry for more by the end of the week. Seems to have a reputation for decent snow conditions and the slopes were quiet when we was there.
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