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Les 3 Vallées 2022/23 - Courchevel, Meribel, Val Thorens etc

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
@Perty, loving your reports - thank you!
Heading out this weekend - looking forward to more updates - please Cool
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Perty wrote:
Mr P says he’s not going to ski at all, so I’ll be on my own if anyone wants to hang out with a moderately adventurous fat ski owning middle aged ski nut!


That's fat-ski owning, for those who don't know Perty (as opposed to fat ski-owning...) wink Toofy Grin
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@Bergmeister, merci!
Today it’s been very warm. Yours truly (the fat-ski owning version), didn’t drive to VT but started from St M just after 9am. It was odd, but the torrential rain last night (we sleep under the eaves with at typical french tin roof, so we can’t miss the sound of a downpour) didn’t make yesterday’s tracks look washed out, but the truth is, the OP had morphed into teeth chattering unpleasantness.
By half way up the Granges chair there was evidence of an inch or two of fresh snow. I avoided Cote Brune and instead bombed down Allemands to the Mont de La Chambre chair. The ski down was lovely, but even by 10am, the snow was softening on the Petit Creux blue just above the M de La C chair (though it always is one of the first pistes to get cruddy in my experience).
Up top, the multitudes were heading to VT via the usual route, and I headed down the Mont de La C blue on the Menuires side to the point where you can cut left to VT. Super snow, and empty piste. I must have seen no more than a dozen other skiers on my way down.
Once in VT it was busy, but the queues were ok. I went up Grand fond and skied into Orelle down the red-nice, but softening. Then up the bubble to the top of Cime Caron. I took the Col d’Audzin red which featured some soft wind blown powder, then the Cristeaux black which had some nice soft bumps topped with fresh snow.
By the bottom though it was getting mushy and really warm. All ventilation zips open!

So, this was a day to finish by early afternoon and head home via the high altitude route rather than Bvd Cumin. It was quite windy at the top which proved a bonus, as the David Douillet red can be really hard going but today offered some fluffy and flattering wind blown “ego” snow. Grand Lac remained remarkably nice. Met Mr P and the dog for lovely lunch at the Corbeleys, sitting in warm sunshine. I’m not ashamed to admit a download to the bottom. V nice day. Day off tomorrow as we head to Albertville for some retail therapy, including investigating (I.e. probably purchasing proper touring skis, skins and possibly even touring boots and take pooch to the vet for his worming pill before returning to the U.K. on Thursday. Given the forecast for dropping temps and snow tomorrow, we’re hoping Weds could be a fantastic day to end this trip.


Last edited by Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see? on Mon 13-03-23 15:51; edited 1 time in total
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@Perty, lovely to read such great reports of familiar and much-loved places, including Corbeleys, which I think is what I'll miss most about not doing the EoSB this year!
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
We are in Les Menuires but conditions are pretty pants, depending on the conditions that arrive tonight, we are might head for Tignes instead for Thurs, Fri and Sat.

We have lift passes ending on Sat, is it easy to get refunds on the un-used days?
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@NoMapNoCompass, forecast is for heavy snow overnight and FL dropping to right down to a 1000m by tomorrow evening so I wouldn't be going anywhere if I was you.

You can only get a refund if you are incapacitated or the all the lifts are shut.
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NoMapNoCompass wrote:
We are in Les Menuires but conditions are pretty pants, depending on the conditions that arrive tonight, we are might head for Tignes instead for Thurs, Fri and Sat.

We have lift passes ending on Sat, is it easy to get refunds on the un-used days?

You'll spend most of your time getting to and back from Tignes ...

Have you actually headed up to VT? Mrs F is there at the moment and she's reporting excellent piste conditions above 2,500 metres. I would hammer VT and Courchevel (particularly 1650) over the next few days if I were you.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Perty wrote:
@Bergmeister, merci!
Today it’s been very warm. Yours truly (the fat-ski owning version), didn’t drive to VT but started from St M just after 9am. It was odd, but the torrential rain last night (we sleep under the eaves with at typical french tin roof, so we can’t miss the sound of a downpour) didn’t make yesterday’s tracks look washed out, but the truth is, the OP had morphed into teeth chattering unpleasantness.
By half way up the Granges chair there was evidence of an inch or two of fresh snow. I avoided Cote Brune and instead bombed down Allemands to the Mont de La Chambre chair. The ski down was lovely, but even by 10am, the snow was softening on the Petit Creux blue just above the M de La C chair (though it always is one of the first pistes to get cruddy in my experience).
Up top, the multitudes were heading to VT via the usual route, and I headed down the Mont de La C blue on the Menuires side to the point where you can cut left to VT. Super snow, and empty piste. I must have seen no more than a dozen other skiers on my way down.
Once in VT it was busy, but the queues were ok. I went up Grand fond and skied into Orelle down the red-nice, but softening. Then up the bubble to the top of Cime Caron. I took the Col d’Audzin red which featured some soft wind blown powder, then the Cristeaux black which had some nice soft bumps topped with fresh snow.
By the bottom though it was getting mushy and really warm. All ventilation zips open!

So, this was a day to finish by early afternoon and head home via the high altitude route rather than Bvd Cumin. It was quite windy at the top which proved a bonus, as the David Douillet red can be really hard going but today offered some fluffy and flattering wind blown “ego” snow. Grand Lac remained remarkably nice. Met Mr P and the dog for lovely lunch at the Corbeleys, sitting in warm sunshine. I’m not ashamed to admit a download to the bottom. V nice day. Day off tomorrow as we head to Albertville for some retail therapy, including investigating (I.e. probably purchasing proper touring skis, skins and possibly even touring boots and take pooch to the vet for his worming pill before returning to the U.K. on Thursday. Given the forecast for dropping temps and snow tomorrow, we’re hoping Weds could be a fantastic day to end this trip.


A very good, comprehensive report - in advance of our arrival on Sunday Very Happy .

Good luck with your touring kit hunt/purchase. Have you looked at Ekosport? They usually have some good deals - and we bought our touring kit from their Chambery store last summer.
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NoMapNoCompass wrote:


We have lift passes ending on Sat, is it easy to get refunds on the un-used days?


Sorry to advise you that it's not possible to obtain a refund on unused lift passes unless you are injured and unable to ski again on the trip Sad

Why not head to Val Thorens? Puzzled Perty described anything but "pants" conditions up there and at Orelle (in her post above).
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@NoMapNoCompass, as others say, it’s set to get colder and snowier over the next 2 days. The same overall weather pattern is going to affect Tignes as Menuires.
I worked a season in Reberty/Les Men quite a while back and know the area well. I am very aware that the pistes above the resort get very mushy. Petit Creux and Boyes piste were my end of day thigh burners.

A couple of questions spring to mind as I offer my thoughts.
1.Do you have 3V lift passes? and
2. What level skiers are you?
If you do have 3V lift passes and especially if you enjoy motoring about and are ok with red runs, then there are plenty of options.
Main things I would suggest (some of which may be obvious) when the temps rise again - get out early.
Avoid south and west facing slopes (though inevitably they are the slopes you end up on at the end of the day in Menuires). Even a slight orientation towards the north can make for far better snow. Pramint and Grand Lac being prime examples. The east facing slopes on the top half of the Meribel side can be great first thing too. The red run from the top of the Teppes drag all the way down to Mottaret is usually quiet and well groomed. Take Venturon from the top of Mont de la Chambre to Mont Vallon and ski Combe du Vallon-the snow there keeps beautifully.
Particularly since the new Pont de La Masse lift opened, personally I’m not a fan of heading up La Masse first thing in the morning. It’s just too busy. And at the moment, by the afternoon, it will be shady but bumpy.
Further afield-yes, head to VT. However, sometimes it’s good to do the counterintuitive thing and head over the Courchevel direction while the masses go to VT. On many occasions in April, even in warm weather, we’ve had a fantastic ski down an empty Folyeres blue run (north facing) through the trees to La Tania. In Courchevel 1650 the upper slopes in particular stay really nice despite their relatively low altitude.
If you do head over towards Courchevel, bitter experience would suggest skiing back in the afternoon via Mottaret is hard work, and not much better in warm weather via Meribel. On either route you can download from the mid stations of Pas du Lac (to Mottaret) or Saulire express (to Meribel).
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Sorry, I should clarify. We skied VT and Orelle today and conditions are good. Menuires and below is mushy after mid morning. Just disappointing for 3V in mid-March to be having to head so high.

I am aware the freezing level is to drop tonight and snow due looking at GFS/ECM ensembles. But it rises on Thurs - Sat. So thinking of doing a day in Tignes on Fri. I don’t mind driving even if it would be 2hrs each way. I'm obviously not going to go anywhere near Tignes on a Sat as the roads are chaos.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Hi Perty,

Thanks for the advice, I'm by no means an advanced/expert skier but competent on-piste on most terrains. My wife is with me and she is better than I am. We don't do much off-piste and like carving so maybe more sensitive to snow conditions! Certainly comfortable on anything on piste in the VT/Orelle area and 3V in general. Should also add I have done lots of trips to the 3V over past 10 years but never had it this bad in March! Maybe just been lucky.

This morning we headed up Masse first thing and did Fred Covili which was in good condition. Then up Mont de la Chambre and over towards VT, skiing Christine down and up the Portette into Orelle. Orelle was good fun but getting a bit soft and soft moguls on the reds after lunch so we headed up Caron and down Audzin home into Menuires via the blue cat tracks which were slow and ropey as we got to Menuires. Does feel a bit colder than yesterday this evening so perhaps there is hope. We are planning to do the lower stuff tomorrow including maybe Jerusalem (which is one of the best runs in 3V) and Biollay down into St M. Will also give Folyeres a shout as I too love that run having done a few trips to La Tania. What put me off was heading back via Meribel as I know how ropey it can get in spring.

Was also hoping on doing Combe du Vallon and Campanol as those are great runs, any thoughts on the condition?

So in short, I appreciate I was being a complete moaner. In true "it's a Wonderful Life" fashion you have all made me wise up and realise I am in the mountains for a week, and just enjoy it! Very Happy
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
@NoMapNoCompass, we've all been there. We usually go Christmas and Easter which by it's nature can be ropey but the last two trips (Les Menuires last April and Les Coches at Christmas) were pretty tough. On both occasions the FL was just stupidly high and didn't really relent. April there was no precipitation and at Christmas we had lots but even at 2000m it was falling as rain. We still liked being in the mountains but it was tough to keep the normal bonhomie and enthusiasm at times. We like to ski off piste also. If I get a couple of days worth of decent off piste I am happy, anything more is a bonus. But those two trips it was slim pickings.

I do think climate change is playing a part and while there will still be good and bad months/years we are perhaps going to see more of these extremes.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
I think we were really spoilt as last year did first week of April in Tignes and we had some amazing days. It was -10C at Val Claret and tons of snow. Probably the best conditions we had last season of all the trips we did. Really enjoyed skiing the un-pisted OK-Orange runs down into La Daille in knee deep powder and pretending I was a good off-piste skier!
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@NoMapNoCompass, I honestly wouldn't drive 4 hours from snow to find snow, it'll be very similar conditions in Tignes IMHO. What skis are you on? If hiring perhaps try something a little wider for slush??
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 Poster: A snowHead
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True, I was just moaning and now realise in hindsight I was being a bit of a prat. Embarassed

Am on my own Salomon S/Max 10's so that's a good point and might hire something fatter.
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Tignes is no different there was slush at 3000m this arvo, my legs are dead from the heavy conditions.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
As others have mentioned, super-warm today! Skiing back down to Meribel at 4:30 there were noticeable 'bubbles' of hot air we skied into beside the stables on Truite, then a bit further down, then at the Chaudanne itself...

That being said, the skiing off piste was actually pretty nice (though we were mostly sticking to lower angled terrain to manage the avalanche risk) - supportive spring-ike slush low down, and good cold snow higher up at the top of Mottaret valley as per the pics below:





The key was definitely finding the areas that were less tracked ...

All change tonight though with another pretty wild system coming through, and hopefully snow down to 1000m...
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NoMapNoCompass wrote:
I think we were really spoilt as last year did first week of April in Tignes and we had some amazing days. It was -10C at Val Claret and tons of snow.


3rd of April last year I skied the 3 Valleys Enduro event with my son and his mates. Knee deep cold light powder everywhere down to resort level.
What happened last year at a certain time often bears little resemblance to what happens the next, particularly in the current climate context. If you went to Val Claret in the first week of April this year (or any year) you would have just as much chance of +10C as -10C...!

Temperatures are going way up again later this week for sure, but they will be in Tignes just as much as in the 3V.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Just made the decision to come out to St.M on Sunday. Hope it’s the right one.
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Snow is not an issue in Les Menuires this morning. Probably about 20-30cm at resort level here in Reberty.
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@NoMapNoCompass, how’s the road to Tignes Eh oh!
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Ha!

I am off to hire some wider skis, my own carvers aren’t much fun in this! Hopefully more lifts open soon as a bit sticky at resort level. Should be amazing up top though!

Can’t wait for tomorrow as low FL overnight, blue bird, and everything should be open.
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Sleeting down in Orelle village. Tired after a week of skiing - having a rest today so we can attack tomorrow with fresh(er) legs! Looks like it's going to be a great day.
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We have called it a day. Went up top to Mont de La Chambre but it is windy and viz is terrible. Snow is great up high but very wet as you get to Menuires. Was still on my carving skis which were pants in the powder and could do with a wax and had issues with wet snow sticking to the bases.

Myself and my wife stopped to help an ESF instructor who was having a ‘mare with his groups of kids. Most of which had fallen over in various positions up and down the slope.
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Snow was very good today. a bit worried after rain overnight at 1700 but by early am was snowing hard. the piste / roads were snow on top of soft base which firmed up at about 1800M. Viz was a touch gloomy first thing but improved as day went and snow came in hard till about 2pm, maybe 30cm total at altitude and seems to be sticking well. only got scraped off and slushy at 1700 on way down. maybe 40k wind at the top of tougnette and mount de le chambre. Fingers crossed will finally ensure a decent base on piste for the foreseeable and won't get killed by rain..
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Quote:

Myself and my wife stopped to help an ESF instructor who was having a ‘mare with his groups of kids.

Good for you. Friend and I stopped by little girl who had fallen with skis in "tangled giraffe" position, and a little boy who had stopped to "help" her. His sister, as it turned out. ESF guy with the rest of the group, bit of a way down the (very easy) slope, end of the afternoon-ish. Looking back up at us. Friend, being very tall and a lot stronger than me, just picked up the girl and dangled her till skis untangled. She wasn't hurt, or indeed terribly bothered. Set her on her feet and they skied down to the instructor. Very polite thanks from the lad and an extremely grateful thank you from the instructor too. Nice way to end an afternoon.
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
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We're just back from session 2. We parked this morning at 11am, had a stretch, nap, nice lunch and then headed back out at 2pm. Was much nicer up high as viz had improved markedly and you could actually see what was going on. I am also now on a set of all-mountain skis rather than my own narrow waisted carvers which is like night and day., no longer getting bogged down in the wetter snow and had a really good afternoon Very Happy
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Fortune definitely favoured the brave today...
The neighbouring tables at the restaurant (in 'civvies') looked at us as if we were UFOs when we headed back out from Mottaret this afternoon, but a venture up high met with some clear spells and good cold powder... Tomorrow will definitely be THE prime day, as temperatures are set to go through the roof again on Thursday Sad

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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Perty wrote:
@Bergmeister, merci!

Day off tomorrow as we head to Albertville for some retail therapy, including investigating (I.e. probably purchasing proper touring skis, skins and possibly even touring boots and take pooch to the vet for his worming pill before returning to the U.K. on Thursday.


Did you manage to find new touring kit? Puzzled
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 Poster: A snowHead
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@Bergmeister, Embarassed After an hour at Au Vieux Campeur of faffing and trying an assortment of touring boots which you can literally help yourself to and try on at leisure, I left with 1x Scarpa Gea GS boots (30% off), and 1x Black Crows Camox Freebird skis in 164 length (20%) off. Needless to say, it wasn’t a cheap day. Have bindings already thanks to Father Christmas- a fetching shade of purple, and will hunt for skins online.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Perty wrote:
@Bergmeister, Embarassed After an hour at Au Vieux Campeur of faffing and trying an assortment of touring boots which you can literally help yourself to and try on at leisure, I left with 1x Scarpa Gea GS boots (30% off), and 1x Black Crows Camox Freebird skis in 164 length (20%) off. Needless to say, it wasn’t a cheap day. Have bindings already thanks to Father Christmas- a fetching shade of purple, and will hunt for skins online.


Great result! Very Happy You will be racing uphill with your new lightweight bargains! wink

Nothing about skitouring will constitute "a cheap day" - but you can remind yourself about that advert.... "Because I'm worth it!" Very Happy Very Happy

We like Vieux Campeur and had a good look round last summer. (In fact we bought our transceivers there).
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Au Vieux Campeur is an Aladdin’s cave of outdoor gear for almost any activity. The only problem we’ve encountered is getting someone to serve you.
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I love it Au Vieux Campeur. Just looking at all those maps and mountain guide-books makes me feel fitter.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
pam w wrote:
I love it Au Vieux Campeur. Just looking at all those maps and mountain guide-books makes me feel fitter.


Very Happy Very Happy
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@Perty,

Are you now a proud fat ski tourer? Puzzled Toofy Grin

What's your waist size? Puzzled Toofy Grin
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Posted this elsewhere, but seems appropriate to share here.
We just had a week in Les Menuires. We stayed right next to the carpet lift in La Croisette. Perfect for kids 1st ever ski trip.
First 3 days sunny, no snow. last 3 days snowing.
Managed a morning of 3 valleys in 3 hours, up Roc 1 & 2, and down Mouflon, Sittelle and Martre to Meribel Mottaret, then up Pas Du Lac 1 & 2 and into Courchevel. Hit Creux. Then back in time to pick up kids in Les Men for 12 noon.

Other highlights included Point de la Masse, Paturages down from the top after fresh snow. Green Violette a great green for kids.
Failed to hit VT as Mont De La Chambre closed early thursday, couldn't get on Brueyeres 2, and by the time we got to bottom of Sunny/Bruyeres 1, we figured time was tight.
Friday snowing and windy, so connection to 3V and VT shut.

Hot choc at Chalet du Sunny with kids Thurs afternoon a great memory.
Seriously loved Les Men for the family. Can't praise it enough. L'Hacienda restaurant staff were GREAT at lunch time post ski school. Ski instructors at Prosneige were friendly and all spoke brilliant english and small class sizes. Honestly really love Les Men.
The 3V is SO good.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Thanks for all of the weather updates, please keep them coming where possible as I always find its much more useful than the forecasts online.

I've been encouraged by recent weather and just booked a week in 1650, arriving 25th March. We're used to skiing this time of year so as long as the conditions aren't drastically worse, we should be happy enough.
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one of the best days of the season so far, cold light powder, lapping the sides of bartaville early, then under cote brune. Pistes were in great nick and only a touch soft at chaudanne... Beauty day
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Conditions all over this morning were amazing, lovely fresh powdery snow that just felt weird after the heavy wet snow of Monday. Skied down Jerusalem into St Martin and it was like a different season compared to when we drove through it on the way to Menuires last Sunday.

We skied down to Meribel in the afternoon off Blaireau and conditions were okay at the top but Meribel centre was very mushy and granular. Rather than head to Courchevel as had been the plan we turned back towards Menuires and enjoyed the reds and blues of Granges and Mont de La Chambre. All of those were in great nick and not busy.
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