 Poster: A snowHead
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Started late to the skiing world, only regret is I didn’t start sooner, been skiing on a pair of Wedze cleanser 80 170 rockers, just do on piste and found them to me ok, got the chance to buy a friends old rossingnol hero elite SL limited, same size believe 18/19 year so newer than mine, question is are these a suitable upgrade. I do like the speed but now looking at really improving the style and like everyone want to carve and look like all the people in the videos you see, off too dolomites in January, which is where I learnt and wondering if it’s worth purchasing, with bindings only wants £80 so not lost much??????
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Welcome to 
The Hero Elites (Ti?) are a precision instrument, that require a good level of skill....so:
- How many weeks skiing have you done?
- How much instruction have you had?
- What level is your skiing at?
- What is your weight and height?
Going from your current skis to the Heros, will be like changing from a Landover to a Lotus.
Slalom skis are an absolute blast if your level is good enough - but IME are not that versatile, and not skis to learn carving on, if you are not already pretty competent.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Hi, I’ve skied two weeks a year since 2015, 6 foot tall and 12 1/2 stone, have been carving but looking to get the sleek right over style you so often see, they are not Ti but SL which I haven’t found as many reviews on, the would of skis baffles me, and I’m guessing to a certain extent is personal choice, but without trying various sets back to back how do you tell?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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One thing to check is the turn radius of the skis, which will normally be printed on them somewhere.
The more "slalom" they are (smaller the turn radius) generally the slower they will be in a straight line and the more turns you'll need to make to go down a specific slope. This means they might not tick your speed box and you can't do long, lazy carves with them either - but if your basic technique is good they/you will love doing short, quick carves.
Great fun if you measure your skiing in "maximum truns for minutes spent on lifts", not so much if it's "Get down as fast as possible".
As you say you want to work on technique (and for £80) I'd say they should be a good buy. A slalom ski can feel horrible if your technique's bad but get technique right and you instantly feel them come alive and reward you - so easy to know when you're getting it right/wrong 
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@Mjit,
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The more "slalom" they are (smaller the turn radius) generally the slower they will be in a straight line and the more turns you'll need to make to go down a specific slope
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I am not entirely convinced you are right on this. And as a chum whipped my ass one inferno with her on 165 SLs and me on 215 DHs ... I have some empirical evidence 
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| Storkers wrote: |
| Hi, I’ve skied two weeks a year since 2015, 6 foot tall and 12 1/2 stone, have been carving but looking to get the sleek right over style you so often see, they are not Ti but SL which I haven’t found as many reviews on, the would of skis baffles me, and I’m guessing to a certain extent is personal choice, but without trying various sets back to back how do you tell? |
Ti just means they have a Titanium (sorry -Titanal) layer - which makes the ski stiffer and gives them higher performance ie. less forgiving. I would expect them to have this, but I can't be certain.
Normally, one would do the hard yards by building up the skillset before progressing to Slalom skis.....But if you want to take a punt - £80 is a reasonable amount to risk for very decent skis - though I would take some lessons.
As highlighted above - Slalom skis want to turn and are twitchy in a straight line. 14m - 16m is the more versatile radius for a Piste ski for doing a variety of turn shapes.
It takes a bit of experience on different skis - usually by hiring - to find what you like....as in brand/radius/damp or playful/length etc
Have you got your own Boots?......If not, a well fitted pair by a recommended Bootfitter is where your money should go first.
Last edited by Then you can post your own questions or snow reports... on Sun 9-10-22 10:51; edited 3 times in total
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Sorry - you quite are correct.
Brain not fully up to speed, as no caffeine intake yet. 
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How long are they and how much use has your friend had on them?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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From what I can tell - there is a Ti version and a Carbon Alloy Matrix version which would be a bit more forgiving. I also think the latter uses a Poplar wood core, rather than Ash, which would also make it a bit lighter and less demanding.
As mentioned above - can you find out the exact Length, Sidecut and Radius....and confirm which version they are.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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126-74-110 R14
Yes have own boots was first thing brought after first trip.
My current skis are 127-78-110 R 13.6-13.9 so as can see very similar and seem to get on well with them but agree can be a little unstable at speed if in a straight line
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| Storkers wrote: |
126-74-110 R14
Yes have own boots was first thing brought after first trip.
My current skis are 127-78-110 R 13.6-13.9 so as can see very similar and seem to get on well with them but agree can be a little unstable at speed if in a straight line |
With the info now provided, I think that they are not the Ti version (which are 68mm underfoot), have a 14m radius @ 170 - so will be a good buy at £80 and should work out OK.
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You know it makes sense.
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@Storkers, there's not much difference in your current to the 80£ers.
what you hoping to gain from the new skis?
probably best to spend money on coaching if you've a skiing goal in mind.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Yes only that the skis are newer, and believe mine are coming to an end as hardly any edge metal left to sharpen, as they came up at a cheap price, was just an option as no funds left after trip to selva Jan booked and one with the kids half term, £80 is justifiable too “she who must be obeyed”!!!!
I have a couple of 1-2-1 booked in Jan
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Poster: A snowHead
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If in good condition can’t go wrong for £80. Are the bindings position ok for your boot size? If not that will cost you more 40-50 to refit them
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Ah really hadn’t considered that as my bindings adjust easily with to quick releases and slide to desired size, is it not easy enough to adjust more fixed ones with the right tools?
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Best to check the bindings model/type and the boot length of the owner of the ski.
Fixed ones I have experience with have got some adjustability at the heel but normally not much.
I do the basic edge/wax tune but I wouldn’t install myself bindings.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Think are look xoress bindings, and appear like mine from google images, look like just adjust toe and heel to given boot size , set din and off you go
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| Storkers wrote: |
| Think are look xoress bindings, and appear like mine from google images, look like just adjust toe and heel to given boot size , set din and off you go |
If the Bindings are on a rail - they will adjust.
If the Bindings are screwed directly onto a flat ski, I think the only length adjustment will be at the heel. If this is the case, you need to compare the Boot Sole Length printed on the side of your boots, with that of the person selling the skis. If they are close, then the heel should have enough adjustment to cover it. The result will be that the centre point on your boots won't quite line up with that on the skis - but I doubt you would notice the difference.
If there isn't enough adjustment in the heel - as said above - they will need re-drilled (provided the new holes don't overlap with old ones).
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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Carving vs turn radius vs slope angle,
The smaller the turn radius, the steeper the slope that you can carve without reaching warp speed, if you actually want to achieve warp speed on a short radius ski, just put it on edge without pressuring the ski and it will carve a bigger turn. I can usually outpace other skiers that are straighlining by simply rolling my r14m skis from edge to edge, ie they are faster doing big turns than straightlining, not to mention that rolling fbig carved turns fells & looks so much better than straightlining, more stable too.
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£80 sounds like a bargain. You will likely to be able to sell them on for that even if you take them and use them for just one or 2 seasons. Can't see a downside if the option is your skis or the hero elites. If they are a rail binding you should not have an issue.
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