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Zermatt and Cervinia 2022-2023

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
ster wrote:
@kitenski, yes but I think that track in the pix is on the Swiss side lower than where the race diverts to the Italian side.

@JohnMo, Late Oct, early Nov arent they?



Sorry, yes. Track down there will be fine by end of October. I don’t think they would need to start now for then.

Because of the Covid delay to the “Alpine Crossing” Klein Matterhorn to Testa Grigia lift anyone wanting to go to the (Italian) finish line from the Swiss side will need to ski there. Coming back they will ski from Testa Grigia to Trockener Steg so will use that track.

kitenski wrote:
@ster, I believe it starts in Switzerland before going down the Italian side?

https://www.fall-line.co.uk/ski-podcast-races-episode/




If you are a complete border nerd (OK that might only be me) they actually start in Italy for a couple of metres before going into Switzerland and then crossing into Italy at Testa Grigia. The high lift station Gobba di Rollin (from where they start) is acutely in Italy although almost all of the two lift lines up to it are in Switzerland.
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franga wrote:
twoodwar wrote:
@franga, but the train station is a bus ride away I believe rather than just under the airport arrivals?


Train station is in the main passenger terminal at Zurich Airport - ground level underneath the large foodcourt. Direct trains to Visp where you have to run with your luggage / skis / board as if your life depended on it to catch the connecting train to Zermatt.


Zurich airport is much better than Geneva IMO. However generally flights to Geneva tend to be cheaper.

The problem with connection from Zurich airport is that on some of the connections you also need to change at Bern. Annoyingly the app also shows you connections where you change at Zurich city and even change at Zurich city and Bern! With Geneva you have the simplicity that you will always be straight through to Visp (where you always need to change as it is a different gauge). Geneva to Visp is now getting more of the smart double deckers with buffet cars that Zurich to Visp has always had.
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Looking at flights to Zurich from Manchester, ( none from Liverpool), We’ll be sticking to Geneva. The train journey view across Lake Geneva is also a major plus, even in a country with amazing views.
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JohnMo wrote:

Zurich airport is much better than Geneva IMO. However generally flights to Geneva tend to be cheaper.


I don’t get this. I travel through Geneva a lot (Zürich less frequently). It is so quick to get out at GVA and to the train. Without check-in luggage you can literally be on a train 20 mins after touching down. And the journey along the lake and through the Valais is a real pleasure in good weather.

Zurich Airport is bigger and IME takes longer to get through to the station. In what way is it better for you?
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BobinCH wrote:
JohnMo wrote:

Zurich airport is much better than Geneva IMO. However generally flights to Geneva tend to be cheaper.


I don’t get this. I travel through Geneva a lot (Zürich less frequently). It is so quick to get out at GVA and to the train. Without check-in luggage you can literally be on a train 20 mins after touching down. And the journey along the lake and through the Valais is a real pleasure in good weather.

Zurich Airport is bigger and IME takes longer to get through to the station. In what way is it better for you?


That is a fair point. I also almost always use Geneva. I think the main difference is the crowding. Geneva is very often hectic whereas Zürich tends to be calmer. Zürich is a bigger and more modern airport. The journey on the train along Lake Geneva is special but the journey from Zürich to Valais is also beautiful, particularly the stretch along Thunersee. Ultimately I would only ever make the decision on price. Milan is different as the connection from the airport (any of them) to the Switzerland train is a pain. However once the Milan Malpensa - Simplon link is completed (still a couple of years away) Milan should be as good an option as Geneva or Zürich.
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JohnMo wrote:
I think the main difference is the crowding. Geneva is very often hectic whereas Zürich tends to be calmer.


I don't know about Zurich but Geneva is definitely often that.

Rather than start my own thread for a very specific query, I thought I would ask here. We will be there at the end of October and would like some recommendations of places to eat in Zermatt - both expensive (i.e. good) for the odd meal and some reasonable for Swiss for most. We were already pointed to Zum See but it unfortunately it will be closed when we are there.

Also are there decent places on the glacier for lunch as its only that which will be open or may you as well head back into town?
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@ster, although I have not eaten there, Testa Grigia on the border has a nice restaurant. Nothing nice on the Glacier. The self service in Trockner Steg is all there really is without snow cover off the glacier.if you were considering Zum Zee, which would involve hiking without pretty much resort level snow cover, try Blattern, which I think is better, a little further down towards town.
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ster wrote:
JohnMo wrote:
I think the main difference is the crowding. Geneva is very often hectic whereas Zürich tends to be calmer.


I don't know about Zurich but Geneva is definitely often that.

Rather than start my own thread for a very specific query, I thought I would ask here. We will be there at the end of October and would like some recommendations of places to eat in Zermatt - both expensive (i.e. good) for the odd meal and some reasonable for Swiss for most. We were already pointed to Zum See but it unfortunately it will be closed when we are there.

Also are there decent places on the glacier for lunch as its only that which will be open or may you as well head back into town?


Alas I think you’re right between seasons as Chez Vrony, which would have been my pick, shuts mid-October. Maybe ask the tourist office if they have a list of what’s open in October?
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We may have some snow before you go@ster,

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Rifugio Guides del Cervino at Plateau Rosa/Testa Grigia is good IMO - Italian ordering system, bit of a climb, but worth it even for a coffee! Given the world cup events, I wonder what they will try to get opened on IT side too by then... in which case, some of the 5 down from Theodulpass Commercial into play - is there a wishful thinking snowed icon?
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@twoodwar, that's the main thing. All the rest is a nice to have!
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Good news for Valtournenche lovers. The construction of the new 6 seater chairlift to replace the button lift that dragged you along the wind blown ridge from Valtournenche into Cervinia. I will not miss it.

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JohnMo wrote:
Good news for Valtournenche lovers. The construction of the new 6 seater chairlift to replace the button lift that dragged you along the wind blown ridge from Valtournenche into Cervinia. I will not miss it.



Thanks for posting this - this is excellent news. As a boarder, I despised the Valtourneche drag lift. I remember coming off it halfway up in a blizzard in the middle of January a few years ago. It took me 20 minutes to board down to the start and jump on it again. I was hanging on for dear life on the second attempt. Not ventured down the Valtourneche side since (which is a shame).

It will not be missed.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Here here. Long lift the new Chairlift! My youngest daughters fiancé held on by his arms only for almost half its length after one of the depressions caught him out and he came ‘unbuttoned’. I will forward the good news
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Hi,

I have a question regarding Zermatt-Cervinia ski area. How much is usually open during the last week in October and the first week in November? Only the Glacier area?
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@JohnMo, good news indeed! I only explored that area for the first time last winter, despite having been to Zermatt more times than I can remember. It was nice and quiet with some great runs, but some of the lifts needed a bit of an upgrade so this is a good start
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Thanks all!

twoodwar wrote:
@ster, although I have not eaten there, Testa Grigia on the border has a nice restaurant. Nothing nice on the Glacier. The self service in Trockner Steg is all there really is without snow cover off the glacier.if you were considering Zum Zee, which would involve hiking without pretty much resort level snow cover, try Blattern, which I think is better, a little further down towards town.


I was stumped there for a bit looking for Blattern which seems to translate as smallpox, so that made me very confused. Did find Blatten after a bit, but sadly its closed too.

BobinCH wrote:
Alas I think you’re right between seasons as Chez Vrony, which would have been my pick, shuts mid-October. Maybe ask the tourist office if they have a list of what’s open in October?


Thanks for the suggestion of the tourist office, I did and they came back within a couple of hours with a fair number, but need to check where they are relative to our accomodation.

Wildsmith wrote:
Rifugio Guides del Cervino at Plateau Rosa/Testa Grigia is good IMO - Italian ordering system, bit of a climb, but worth it even for a coffee! Given the world cup events, I wonder what they will try to get opened on IT side too by then... in which case, some of the 5 down from Theodulpass Commercial into play - is there a wishful thinking snowed icon?


According to the tourist centre, the only thing open on the glacier is the restaurant ICE Buffet Bar Self Service.

They did give me some options in town which I'll look at, and someone who has been there recently mentioned the Stockhorne (at the rex?) as being a good one for a (pricey) dinner.

Has anyone got any more recommendations in town, of the reasonably priced variety?
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@ster, we particularly liked this place and don’t think it was too pricey
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g188098-d15759823-Reviews-L_Atelier_Grandsire-Zermatt_Canton_of_Valais_Swiss_Alps.html
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Grampis is Italian and Pizza based, but has always been reliable for a number of years. It’s near the top of Bahnhofstrasse, and you enter. Is a side door. Grizzly’s is down near the station, in fact facing the side of it near the entrance. Small choice but good quality. Both are ‘cheap’ for Zermatt. Think 26chf for a pizza in Grampis.
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@BobinCH, looks good and close to where we are. Its rated #2 of 179 Restaurants in Zermatt on Tripadvisor, but the first review mentions best tasting foie gras for years might mean its too rich for us. wink

@twoodwar, thanks, who doesnt like pizza (esp at 26chf), I'll check that one out.
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Just back from a few days in Zermatt visiting my daughter and grandson! Thursday and Friday were great weather, Saturday not so much, but did get an awesome paraglider flight on Thursday with my daughter's partner, Glenn Parsons (ex UK freerider) who works with Fly Zermatt and that was cool! Spent Friday afternoon and evening (until 2 am rolling eyes ) in Grizzlys which is now run by an old friend, Graham, then moved on to the Broken Bar in the Post until 4am, dancing on the barrel for the first time with my daughter, didn't get up to much the following day!!!

f678a0e5-265e-4e6e-a910-1affa39132b2 by Ken Reeve, on Flickr
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Feel ill looking at that@KenX, !,
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Quote:
Feel ill looking at that KenX!
Looks amazing - and a fantastic Matterhorn photo too! Very Happy
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matejp wrote:
Hi,

I have a question regarding Zermatt-Cervinia ski area. How much is usually open during the last week in October and the first week in November? Only the Glacier area?


That is a trickier question this year because of the World Cup races. These are on the weekends of 29/30 October and 5/6 November. But obviously the infrastructure will be up in between times.

The general answer is that at present the summer ski area on the top glacier is open. On the piste maps this is runs 83-88 with lifts X3-XCool. At some stage in October there should be enough snow to open the lower glacier. This is runs 71 and 72 on the piste map with lift V. Of course no-one can guarantee when sufficient snow will come. However, I have never known there not be enough snow by the end of October. Mind you until this year I have never known them have to close the summer ski area because of lack of snow – it was closed for 6 weeks. Once they can open the lower glacier they stop running the lifts on the upper glacier. However, one can usually still ski down from Klein Matterhorn to Trockener Steg.

With the World Cup races I think they will have to close the lifts on the upper glacier regardless of whether the lower glacier is open as that is where the races are. However, you will still be able to ski down from Klein Matterhorn (including to Testa Grigia) as that is what you have to do if you want to watch the races. The good news is that the temperatures have fallen, there has already been some snow and the snowmaking is in progress so the lower glacier will hopefully open well before the World Cup weekends.

There is nothing else open until 3 December on the Swiss side. The Italians are better at opening stuff up early if the snow is good.
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twoodwar wrote:
Feel ill looking at that@KenX, !,


Best not watch the video then!!!


http://youtube.com/v/O5ImV5eNj5M
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@KenX, Never done that but often watched people going up. Looks fantastic.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
It’s that time of year. Up high could look very different by early next week.

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@KenX, looks fantastic, we did this back in June in Chamonix below the Aiguille du Midi, was a fantastic experience!
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JohnMo wrote:
@KenX, Never done that but often watched people going up. Looks fantastic.


Likewise. I wish we’d done it last April in Les Contamines as the weather was great and it didn’t seem too expensive there. I don’t think we’ll be doing it at Swiss prices!
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Yes, if I'd paid it would've been CHF 220 + CHF 50 for the one-way lift to Rothorn.........
But, there's only one place you get to do it with that backdrop Very Happy
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@KenX, there is a (slightly) cheaper option. I really need to build up the courage and do that.

https://www.flyzermatt.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwvsqZBhAlEiwAqAHElaZO4qGg3D-U8pw12gRbBAh6-1kVBdnHO70t7zl-kUyxbakuZdcGRRoCIl0QAvD_BwE
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@JohnMo, Ah yes, that's the one where the trainees take you up Laughing
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When we took off at Rothorn, the thermals/valley winds were so strong, we ascended another 300m!!!
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Seriously, if you want it cheaper, I can put you in touch with Glenn direct, he gets most of his work from Chris Banford at FlyZermatt, but works for himself
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KenX wrote:
Seriously, if you want it cheaper, I can put you in touch with Glenn direct, he gets most of his work from Chris Banford at FlyZermatt, but works for himself


I might well take you up on that. Cheers.
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KenX wrote:
@JohnMo, Ah yes, that's the one where the trainees take you up Laughing


Its not the up I’d be worried about, its the coming down.

Are bookings for restaurants needed/advisable in late Oct? I don’t mind booking but wouldn’t mind a bit of flexibility without booking then cancelling on them and mucking restaurants about. Will book the fancier/smaller that we definitely want to go to though.

Also the speed races going on that weekend might draw a crowd.


Last edited by You'll need to Register first of course. on Wed 28-09-22 13:35; edited 1 time in total
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Regarding Fly Zermatt - my 11 year old daughter and myself went with them from the Klein Matterhorn glacier about a year or so ago. Yes it cost a pretty penny, but absolutely worth it as a one-off. Flying over the glaciers was an experience never to be forgotten and it is the only way us mere mortals will ever be able to get that close to them. The guys who ran it were fantastic too, so highly recommended
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Question re getting back to Cervina, ( or in my Case Valtournache) from Zermatt, are there multiple places to cross back or does one have to use the klein Matterhorn, I am looking at the piste maps but you guys are better at explaining things. Also It is possible to ski back to Valtournache without having to catch a lift? there is one run or is there a spot where we have to go up a lift to continue the Journey?
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@biddpyat, To get back from Zermatt you can also take two very long drag lifts to get back (the klein matterhorn is generally much faster I'd have thought unless there is a big queue, but there is always the risk of high winds closing it)

For Valtournache you did need to get at least one short chairlift (next to piste 10 on the map) up over a ridge to get back
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Whitters wrote:
@biddpyat, To get back from Zermatt you can also take two very long drag lifts to get back (the klein matterhorn is generally much faster I'd have thought unless there is a big queue, but there is always the risk of high winds closing it)

For Valtournache you did need to get at least one short chairlift (next to piste 10 on the map) up over a ridge to get back


If I remember correctly the first of those drag lifts (X1) didn’t run at all last season. I would guess that they consider that the new (ish – been running since November 2018) Trockener Steg to Klein Matterhorn 3S lifts make the drag lift redundant. The 3S lifts are closed by wind a lot less than the old cable car. Also, because there are a lot of them and they are large and run very quickly, the queues that used to build up at Trockener Steg are a thing of the past.

For some reason they still ran the second drag lift (X2). The only benefit I could see of X2 in isolation was that if you were coming from Klein Matterhorn to Testa Grigia (to head into Italy) you could take the nicer route down to the bottom of X2 and avoid the long flat section along Plateau Rosa (piste eighty eight). Maybe good for snowboarders? Not that snowboarders are huge fans of drag lifts.
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