 Poster: A snowHead
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not very knowledgeable when it comes to cars  Have driven to Tignes and car is parked for 2 weeks in the open. Is it worth starting the engine a few times when here or better to leave it be ? Volvo reg 2014.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| Knee Deep wrote: |
| not very knowledgeable when it comes to cars Have driven to Tignes and car is parked for 2 weeks in the open. Is it worth starting the engine a few times when here or better to leave it be ? Volvo reg 2014. |
Leave it be unless you will be moving it, starting will flatten the battery more.
You should obviously prepare the car for the minus temperatures. If you have any doubts over the battery life/quality I would replace it.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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I'd start it after one week, with the proviso that you'd have to run it for at least 15 mins to replace the energy into the battery used to start. If it struggles to start, then run for 30 mins.
At the least do the above on preceding Thursday of the week you leave (if you are returning for example saturday) as it will let you get assistance on the Friday IF there's a problem and it shouldn't delay you on your departure day then.
If you can't practically run it for those minimum times, then leave it until you go.
If your battery is not up to scratch it's possible that it won't start after two weeks in freezing conditions. Be prepared for that eventuality, some people carry a charged jump pack (small device that can jump the car or charge phones etc) which are generally useful to have with powered devices anyway.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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thanks -will take it out for a little drive for peace of mind .
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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or does just leaving it running whilst still parked work ?
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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| Knee Deep wrote: |
| or does just leaving it running whilst still parked work ? |
Yes but will take 3-4 times longer, also if you are trying to warm the car up this will also take power to run the fans.
Plus it's not very nice for the clean mountain air to leave your car idling for 30min
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Leave it be. I've owned Volvos since 1986, usually two at a time. Assuming yours doesn't have a "parasitic" battery drain issue it should start easily after two weeks, even in freezing conditions. If diesel, I assume you know not to crank engine until pre-heater light has gone out. I have a 2005 diesel V70 which I'd happily leave parked in Tignes for two weeks. I drove to Flaine for years with a 740 estate that was 14 years old when last there and a V70 Tdi that was 12 years old, which had covered 200,000 miles. Never a starting issue.
Last edited by Then you can post your own questions or snow reports... on Sat 22-01-22 10:31; edited 1 time in total
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| Knee Deep wrote: |
| or does just leaving it running whilst still parked work ? |
Should work fine like that.
If you want to assess it before, one of the USB cigarette lighter chargers with digital voltage readout (not expensive and can be useful) will let you see what the status of your car is now.
Should be 12.6~12.9 volts just switched on not running. Started, that should rise to about 13.95volts (the alternator/generator will be capped about 14.0 volts) if it does that while just sitting still then all is fine and it will charge ok if driven or not.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Get a lithium jump starter.
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@Knee Deep, leave it
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| dklemm wrote: |
| Knee Deep wrote: |
| or does just leaving it running whilst still parked work ? |
Yes but will take 3-4 times longer, also if you are trying to warm the car up this will also take power to run the fans.
Plus it's not very nice for the clean mountain air to leave your car idling for 30min |
If you don't have a contingency and it fails to start, if you can't get someone else to give you a jump start from their car, then a call for assistance will most likely involve someone else starting a medium size diesel rescue vehicle to come out and assist you, negating any environmental savings. And after starting it will probably advise you to run it for 30 mins 
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When you arrived the battery was fully charged (or should be). A properly serviced car with the correct engine oil and with a decent battery will start right up after two weeks, even in the cold.
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You know it makes sense.
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If you're driving an old car to the Alps it's probably worth treating it to a new battery at some point, especially if it hasn't been changed in years (or ever).
Apparently they only last 3-5 years... Though I just changed mine after 9 years, and it's so much better to start on a cold morning.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Big issue will be diesel.
If a diesel, be very wary of leaving it for more than a day or so if the overnight temps fall below -20 or so.
We had a nightmare with our 2005 XC70. Very cold period Dec 2015 or so - persistent -25 every night. Problem wasn't the fuel (which was mountain stuff with additive for good measure)
Glow plugs were fine, but it just wouldn't fire. After about 10 minutes cranking from a recovery truck, it eventually fired and was happy.
Reading into it, the problem arose due to the engine getting so cold that the fuel just wont vaporise properly. This is why the Canadians etc fit electric block heaters.
Got home all right, but the starter ring gear stripped a few months later - a known failure, but im sure 10 min cranking in -25 deg didn't help!
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Poster: A snowHead
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@martinperry, yes that can be a problem. The diesel although liquid is problematic in trying to reach a stratified state (dispersed into molecules small enough to be held in suspension in air to allow the combustion to "daisychain" through the mixture) it basically stays quite globular which is really difficult to light off.
It's exaggerated the more you crank it with no firing as normal combustion clears the chamber fully and exiting into the exhaust will leave the chamber clear for the next metered volume. No firing just gets the cylinders wetter and wetter, digging a deeper hole, when it finally starts it's usually with clouds of white smoke as it expells the unburnt fuel.
One technique of in similar situations is to cycle the glow plugs half dozen times without attempting any cranking, it'll get the immediate combustion chamber metal warm and significantly help when you try it for the first time.
Also always carry a can of E-Z-Start that you can spray into the air intake, it's a more volatile gas, ether? That promotes initial firing in the above scenario and once a cylinde4 fires it's up and running fine ordinarily.
Sounds complex, but if you're aware of this simple routine then it won't usually give any concern.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| ski3 wrote: |
@martinperry, yes that can be a problem. The diesel although liquid is problematic in trying to reach a stratified state (dispersed into molecules small enough to be held in suspension in air to allow the combustion to "daisychain" through the mixture) it basically stays quite globular which is really difficult to light off.
It's exaggerated the more you crank it with no firing as normal combustion clears the chamber fully and exiting into the exhaust will leave the chamber clear for the next metered volume. No firing just gets the cylinders wetter and wetter, digging a deeper hole, when it finally starts it's usually with clouds of white smoke as it expells the unburnt fuel.
One technique of in similar situations is to cycle the glow plugs half dozen times without attempting any cranking, it'll get the immediate combustion chamber metal warm and significantly help when you try it for the first time.
Also always carry a can of E-Z-Start that you can spray into the air intake, it's a more volatile gas, ether? That promotes initial firing in the above scenario and once a cylinde4 fires it's up and running fine ordinarily.
Sounds complex, but if you're aware of this simple routine then it won't usually give any concern. |
Good tip on the EZ start! Ive never thought to use it on a diesel!
Definitely one to throw in the roofbox with the chains etc.
And yes - smoked like a chimney when it fired up!!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@ski3, yes, you make good points in the event of consistently very low overnight temps. Cycling the glow plugs is a good idea if the engine isn't firing - it's just that I never had an issue at 1600m although, admittedly, Tignes is higher. But imv starting the engine after one week won't make any difference, just take some charge from the battery (you'd have to run it quite some time to charge it back up fully, especially a diesel which takes more charge to start).
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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If you have an old-fashioned handbrake, with a cable, and you've been driving on snowy roads, leave it off when you park (and car in appropriate gear, obvs). Slush can freeze around the cable. I thought my car was dying - making such a horrendous noise that passers-by were turning to stare. I was much relieved when a French mechanic explained (when I pulled into a garage) and just laughed at me - no charge, Madam.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| HilbertSpace wrote: |
| Get a lithium jump starter. |
Better getting a mega capacitor jump starter. Costs more, but will
a. Last longer
b. Even with a seriously low battery will get enough stored charge to start the car.
I have both a lithium and a mega cap jump starter. We have a tractor, jcb, 5l petrol merc, and just replaced the 2.4l Audi A4 v6 petrol with a 3l diesel Q7, so need some serious cranking amps if we get stuck.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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If possible, park it somewhere where it gets some sun on it to warm it up each day.
The only time I had trouble starting a car in the mountains was when it had been outside in winter in the shade for ten days.
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@Knee Deep, Don't bother. Once it's cold, it's cold. Nothing to be gained.
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It'll be marginally more comfortable while waiting for the breakdown lorry!
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| CV wrote: |
If possible, park it somewhere where it gets some sun on it to warm it up each day.
The only time I had trouble starting a car in the mountains was when it had been outside in winter in the shade for ten days. |
Good call.
Definitely it'll make a difference, even trying to start a diesel in the morning after a very cold night when it won't fire, left in the sun in the day they'll usually go.
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