 Poster: A snowHead
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A couple of years ago I was planning my first trip to ski Europe. I found this forum and got some very good information. It was a mid April trip, I ended up at Val D'Isere / Tignes and had a great experience! Someone on here invited me to Val Thorens to ski with your EOSB, unfortunately I got sick and was unable to go.
I have an Ikon Pass and it now includes Dolomiti Superski, I am planning to go there the first week of March (pandemic permitting of courese).
I have been skiing for 40+ years. Both hips have been replaced so no bumps or real steep stuff for me anymore. I spend my time on the groomers, the longer and steeper the better. The Dolomites are know for snowmaking and grooming, sounds perfect!
The big question - where to stay? I have spent more than a few hours looking at trail maps and reading reviews, the areas I am most interested in skiing are: Marmolda Glacier, Hidden Valley run, Cortina d'Ampezzo, several parts of Val Gardena: Dantercepies, Plan de Gralba, Passo Sella, Seceda Glacier; and Val di Fassa: Belvedere and Col Rodella. Let me know if I missed any of the best long cruising runs!
Yep, pretty much opposite sides of the Sella Ronda (and Cortina is not connected). I know the Sella Ronda is interconnected but it is reasonable to stay at one corner and get to another corner for a ski day? I am leaning towards staying in Selva but worried that Marmolda and Hidden Valley are too far away.
I know there are buses but I can't find any good information online. A few reviewers say they are not great: they don't run very often, can be crowded, navigation / signage is confusing. Ideally one could catch an early morning bus, head to an area, ski that area and use part of the Sella Ronda to get home (or bus back). Is this possible?
I live in Denver, Colorado and do lots of day trips. Driving and parking has become a real hassle, I prefer not to rent a car but I will if needed. What is parking like at these areas? I imagine I have to pay, is it expensive? Is there lots of walking to the lifts? Do the lots ever fill up?
A couple of random questions, I am sure I will think of more:
When do lifts close? Hopefully not at 4:00 like North America (stupid).
There are some black runs on the trail maps, are these groomed nightly like all the pistes?
Can one ski from Passo Sella - Sella Joch to Selva without riding a lift? It looks like you can, however the route planner https://www.dolomitisuperski.com/en/Experience/Ski-route-planner shows two lift rides (#48 and 47).
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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From what you're saying, Corvara would be the best place to stay.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@blueroom, Other more experienced Dolomiti skiers will be along soon. Though I have climbed in the Dolomites for many years (it is probably the best rock climbing in Europe) I have only skied there once. Nevertheless I will try and answer your questions:
I'd stay in Arraba. From there you can easily get to Marmalada and it's close to all the routes around the Sella Plateau. It is even easy to get across to Alba (need to use the lift down) and val di Fassa. Busses can take you to the Flazarago pass and the Cinque Torre area. It is a main road.
I cannot recall the lift closing time but seem to think they were earlier than I am used to (I am used to Les Arcs where the lifts close at 16:40). It clearly was not a problem for me.
The black runs, like almost all runs in the Dolomites are bashed as smooth as a baby's bottom. Don't go to the Dolomites if you like bump skiing
I don't think you can ski from Sella Joch to Wolkenstein - the ridge of Langkofel gets in the way.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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"Can one ski from Passo Sella - Sella Joch to Selva without riding a lift?"
You can, but it might involve a bit of 'poling/walking'
When you get to lift 48 the signage encourages you to take it, but you can just carry on down the blue run to Plan di Gralba.
However, once you get to Plan you need a bit of speed to carry you over the flats to the bottom of lift 47. Here again signage encourages you to take the lift (recently they have been blocking the bottom of 47 with piles of snow - you may have to walk around to get on the red piste into Selva).
There is a short chair (Funega) in Selva which you could once bypass but is now fenced, forcing you onto the chair to reach the village centre...
So, yes, but needs work.....
Last edited by You need to Login to know who's really who. on Sun 3-10-21 22:57; edited 1 time in total
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Firstly, it's a shame you aren't coming a month earlier, you could have joined 150+ of us on the Sella Ronda for the Birthday bash.
All parts of the Sella Ronda, along with many off-shoots are easily accessible from anywhere on the circuit, so it doesn't really matter where you stay. Reasonably good skiers would be able to do the circuit in both directions on the same day, but that would be by-passing some nice routes.
Most of the places you have mentioned, including Marmolada, wouldn't be a problem from anywhere, however, if you want to include the hidden valley (and Cinque Torri) then I would suggest being no further away than Selva. Many Snowheads take a trip over that way from Arabba, enjoy a leisurely lunch and get home in plenty of time. Selva would be maybe 30 minutes more traveling time.
Cortina is a different issue, as it involves additional transport. The problem is getting from Lagazuoi (for hidden valley) to Cortina and back. See the discussions on this thread. https://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=156447#4830285
If you enjoy long black runs, then I would recommend a day in Kronplatz. Includes a lovely run down into La Villa. 30 minute bus ride from Alta Badia to Piccolino, then ski over via St Vigil. You should easily get 3 hours there.
Some lifts start to close just after 4.30. more local ones stay open 'til 5 ish, so you can ski longer, with less pressure to get back to your own valley.
Not sure how often all black runs are groomed. No doubt someone with a bit more knowledge will be along to advise soon.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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The blacks at Kronplatz are forgiving. I’m not saying that they aren’t genuine blacks.
And Piculin is definitely STEEP.
But they are well groomed and maintained and I just love them
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| blueroom wrote: |
| I spend my time on the groomers, the longer and steeper the better. |
Same here. Looks like you've done a great job with your homework. Here's a few additional thoughts:
Cortina: for steep groomers, good but not the best. I will say the blacks are blacker here, like 51, but not a lot of long runs where you can see ahead enough to just let it go. One where you can is Lagazuoi. Here's your day: three quick beat-the-tram laps there to start, then over to Cinque Torri. Ciccalato at Rif. Averau at 10:30, then back up Lagazuoi, and down Hidden Valley. Pick up your jaw from the ground and use it at Rif. Scotoni for lunch. Get home somehow!
Alta Badia: A lower intermediate's paradise, so slim pickings with a notable exception: Gran Risa, a classic WC GS course and a real leg burner. I stay here (San Cassiano) as it is quiet and well-located (the "day" mentioned above works great from here) but don't ski here much.
Arabba/Marmolada: more steep groomers here. Arabba flies a bit under the radar, darn good hill. One of the better lift systems in Dolomites. Marmolada....massively long, classic run, gotta do it once, but standing in three consecutive cable car lines is a great way for my old bones to turn to stone.
Val Gardena: Definitely come here. Sasslong (the DH course)is long and wide, you can rip. Cyr is a nice black with character and some trees to help with vis.
Val di Fassa: I'm less familiar with VDF but you mentioned Belvedere and that area is nice; that chair is getting replaced I believe.
Kronplatz: if you want long groomers with good pitch than this is the place. I agree that the blacks are not "control your speed with each turn"-steep, but if they were you wouldn't make it to lunch, because some are over 1,300 vertical feet! It seems to lack the cachet of some of the others, possibly because it is not on the Sella Ronda, but one can't deny the vertical. Also a very good lift system here, although unusual in that it is nearly exclusively gondolas. I use a car and hit KP on the way in and again on the way out. Of the places I've skied in D.S., I think it is the easy best choice for the strong skier who is skiing groomers. There are two cool museums at the summit as well, an unusual and fun diversion especially if the vis sucks.
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Bear in mind that pancake day is Tuesday 1st March in 2022 and around that date it is likely to be very busy .
Called Carnivale in Italy - even though its not often on the school holidays chart as an Italian week off - it will be busy with Italians, Dutch and Germans.
So even though most areas are within easy skiing of each other - lift queues will potentially cock this up .
You might be better off in week after commencing Monday 7th March.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Thanks for all the info!
| Quote: |
| Kronplatz: if you want long groomers with good pitch than this is the place. |
I have seen multiple good reviews of Kronplatz, sounds like I need to visit. Yet another reason to rent a car. What is up with all the gondolas? And none of them go top to bottom. Maybe so the top can be skiied when the snow is not good? And I believe you meant 1300 meters not feet 
Last edited by You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net. on Mon 4-10-21 18:11; edited 1 time in total
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| Quote: |
| You can, but it might involve a bit of 'poling/walking' |
Thanks for the info! I looked closer at a trail map and saw dotted lines on that part of the run. I don't mind a bit of skating now and again.
Last edited by Ski the Net with snowHeads  on Mon 4-10-21 18:12; edited 1 time in total
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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| sheffskibod wrote: |
| You might be better off in week after commencing Monday 7th March. |
I am looking at arriving Saturday 5 March for a week. Hopefully all the pancakes will be gone.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| brianatab wrote: |
| Firstly, it's a shame you aren't coming a month earlier, you could have joined 150+ of us on the Sella Ronda for the Birthday bash. |
I actually have some flexibility, Birthday Bash is a possibility.
| brianatab wrote: |
| All parts of the Sella Ronda, along with many off-shoots are easily accessible from anywhere on the circuit, so it doesn't really matter where you stay. Reasonably good skiers would be able to do the circuit in both directions on the same day, but that would be by-passing some nice routes. |
Good to know, thanks!
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| blueroom wrote: |
Thanks for all the info!
| Quote: |
| Kronplatz: if you want long groomers with good pitch than this is the place. |
I have seen multiple good reviews of Kronplatz, sounds like I need to visit. Yet another reason to rent a car. What is up with all the gondolas? And none of them go top to bottom. Maybe so the top can be skiied when the snow is not good? And I believe you meant 1300 meters not feet |
The shape of the mountain is such that there are relatively gentle slopes on the top. So that’s good for beginners / early improvers. And they won’t necessarily be able to ski down. So gondolas up and down.
And there are gondolas that go to the summit from Reischach / Riscone and from Olang / Valdaora. Also from the train station at Percha / Perca. Not direct from the San Vigilio side as it is too distant.
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You know it makes sense.
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Hmm...as to where to stay, I'd suggest Selva or Colfosco/Corvara, just because they're on the main Sella Ronda and you'll be able to do a lot of what you want from there without too much trouble. The other choice would be Arabba, I think.
We have stayed in Selva for four years and are going back this March (last week in Feb actually). Can't recommend it enough but it is a little pricier than some other areas. But still relatively reasonable. Just carefully pick your accomodations and you can ski in/ski out (look for something within a few hundred meters of the in-town beginner tows and you can get to Dantercepies or the Saslong area. Once you're up there you're on the SR.
Lifts close at 430, some earlier. Keep an eye on the time in the afternoons if you're far from your "home" village.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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@blueroom, yes, meters. As for all the gondos (which as someone noted do go all the way up from a couple bases), I'm baffled. The top to bottoms make sense. All the others....I think there are more gondolas at Kronplatz than at all US ski areas combined!
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Poster: A snowHead
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@Scooter in Seattle, For summer tourism; lots of mountain bikers I think.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@AL9000, for sure; I've been there in summer myself. Getting the blue-hairs up the hill in summer is what got the one at my home hill built. What's different is that KP is so far in this direction: 22 of their 32 lifts are gondos. That ratio blows everywhere else away. All that said, I prefer chairs!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| blueroom wrote: |
I know there are buses but I can't find any good information online. A few reviewers say they are not great: they don't run very often, can be crowded, navigation / signage is confusing. Ideally one could catch an early morning bus, head to an area, ski that area and use part of the Sella Ronda to get home (or bus back). Is this possible?
I live in Denver, Colorado and do lots of day trips. Driving and parking has become a real hassle, I prefer not to rent a car but I will if needed. What is parking like at these areas? I imagine I have to pay, is it expensive? Is there lots of walking to the lifts? Do the lots ever fill up?
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buses between resorts are generally poor but some do exist, there is not an integrated system though. Personally I find this the most confusing part of the whole area, it would be nice if they made this simpler and remove the jeopardy of getting stuck on the wrong side of a pass when winds close the lifts. ATM it's more a case of finding out where they run and aiming to get to the right place at the right time. You cannot expect to e.g. stay in Canazei and jump on a bus to Kronplatz, Cortina or Arabba but once you've done your research you discover that you can ski to Alta Badia and get a bus to Kronplatz
https://www.kronplatz.com/en/kronplatz/ski-lifts-slopes/ski-safari/connecting-skiers
or get an infrequent bus from Corvara to Cortina (perfectly feasible to do a day trip this way)
https://www.cortinaexpress.it/en/
taxis are also an option at certain strategic points
On our last trip we rented a car and stayed in Corvara. It worked really well, there was no problem parking, we didn't pay for any but there are some places where you need to pay a few Euros. We only used the car a couple of days but you'll probably find it's cheaper to hire a car for a week or two than mess about paying for transfers. We're doing the same this year but for 2 weeks. We've also stayed in Canazei (so opposite corner of the SR) and preferred Corvara due to easier access to non connected resorts. But TBH if you're only there for a week there will be plenty to keep you busy without having to drive. A good skier can easily ski to hidden valley/cinque Torri or Marmolada from any where on/near the SR in a day so you only need a car if you're thinking of spending a day in Cortina, Kronplatz etc and don't want to risk buses.
Personally I'd go for Selva or Corvara just because they give you easy access to several areas but you can't really go wrong with any of the resorts around the SR.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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I agree that you don't need a car if you're staying on the Sella Ronda route, but that is heavily location dependent. If you're not within bootpacking distance of a lift you're at the mercy of the buses, which get full at the end of the day and are pretty spotty, despite supposedly having a regular schedule. For example, one year we stayed in the heights above Selva -- we could get to Dantercepies etc with a bus in the mornings, but by late afternoon it was almost not possible. So we wound up driving every day anyway.
Unless you aren't comfortable renting/driving in Italy (my wife refuses to drive on the autostrada or in big towns/cities there), I'd probably think about renting from the airport. You could get away with a small car for probably 350 euros for a week. Don't forget that some rental agencies require TWO credit cards...
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| Pasigal wrote: |
I agree that you don't need a car if you're staying on the Sella Ronda route, but that is heavily location dependent. If you're not within bootpacking distance of a lift you're at the mercy of the buses, which get full at the end of the day and are pretty spotty, despite supposedly having a regular schedule. For example, one year we stayed in the heights above Selva -- we could get to Dantercepies etc with a bus in the mornings, but by late afternoon it was almost not possible. So we wound up driving every day anyway.
Unless you aren't comfortable renting/driving in Italy (my wife refuses to drive on the autostrada or in big towns/cities there), I'd probably think about renting from the airport. You could get away with a small car for probably 350 euros for a week. Don't forget that some rental agencies require TWO credit cards... |
just booked a car with Hertz, only ca £140 pw. Bit of a no brainer compared to messing about with transfers. I found driving in Italy easier than stereotypes would suggest.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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| richb67 wrote: |
| A good skier can easily ski to hidden valley/cinque Torri or Marmolada from any where on/near the SR in a day so you only need a car if you're thinking of spending a day in Cortina, Kronplatz etc and don't want to risk buses. |
We did Pozza di Fassa, bus to Canazei, skied to the hidden valley, stopped for lunch and back, skied back via the lift up from Alba, and across and down to Pozza again. It was nip and tuck by the end, and a full on day, but doable. Even easier when you stay in a resort right on the Sella Ronda circuit
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| Scooter in Seattle wrote: |
| I think there are more gondolas at Kronplatz than at all US ski areas combined! |
Almost - Kronplatz has 22, a quick count showed 25 gondolas in the US, I am sure I missed a few.
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@richb67, Good information thank you! I would like to do a day at both Cortina and Kronplatz so I am most likely going to rent a car. In Calgary I had to rent a car with snow tires and I needed them! Anything like that in Italy for driving in winter?
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| Pasigal wrote: |
| If you're not within bootpacking distance of a lift you're at the mercy of the buses, which get full at the end of the day and are pretty spotty, despite supposedly having a regular schedule. For example, one year we stayed in the heights above Selva -- we could get to Dantercepies etc with a bus in the mornings, but by late afternoon it was almost not possible. |
The buses sound like a mess, I think I will rent. Do I need to worry about snow tires or snow chains?
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You NEED snow tyres (Winter tyres) and if you rent then some rental companies will charge extra but others won’t. Chains are usually extra but unlikely to be needed.
Until you do need them.
We rent and get Winter tyres but don’t usually bother with chains
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@blueroom, fyi the pass roads ain't I-70 over there....they are generally smaller and steeper. I tried to go over Passo Valparola (Alta Badia to Falzarego (Cortina)) in a FWD with winter tires and gave up halfway up the pass. Since then I get AWD cars which raises the price but lowers the angst in unfamiliar surroundings. The car rental cos seem to want to make it hard to get AWD*; I use Sixt because at least they will come out and say its AWD for certain cars (e.g. BMW X4 "the Hyena"). Such cars were way cheaper ($60/day) over there than here, pre-pandemic anyway. There are bad stories about Sixt, but there are bad stories about all rental car companies. If you can't get AWD then check the forecast. The Dolomites are not known for dumpage and chains are very unlikely to be needed....but if its gonna dump you have to be able to get there.
*If one really wants to geek out about AWD rental cars, there is a four letter code that betrays the truth, and you can usually dig it out. But they don't have a million Cherokees sitting there like at DIA.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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In my limited experience it can be difficult to get a hire car with guaranteed winter tyres in Italy. Coincidentally I just reserved a small car with them from Hertz but will be keeping my eyes open for a better deal. Last time we were lucky and got a great deal for a winterised 4wd e-pace Jag.
Snow chains are standard in Northern Italy during winter.
Alternatively if you fly into Innsbruck I believe winter tyres are standard.
The chances of needing to use chains or winter tyres are pretty low and you’d have to be unlucky to have issues on a day when you had to travel. but having never used snow chains personally I don’t fancy having to stop a hire car by the side of the road in a snow storm and put on some cheap nasty chains
We’ve been to the Dollies maybe 4 or 5 times, had problems with snow on transfer day once and I was glad we weren’t driving that time.
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FAQ
