 Poster: A snowHead
|
I've been looking for a 2nd skis for when I'm not actually "skiing". That is, doing drills and practicing forms, on days that aren't worth bringing out my "real" skis. (also will be leaving it at a location near the mountain)
To save money, I'm thinking getting a pair of "pre-loved" skis.
Looking at available skis on various sources, I noticed one commonality and I need some help to figure it out, as I just don't have enough knowledge on the topic.
As skis suitable for me are of a certain length range. Typically, the current (soon to be previous) owner are similar in height, which means they also have similar boot size. But not exactly the same BSL  Occasionally, I see the BSL listed, though not always.
My question is, how much adjustment there is on any typical alpine binding? Can one adjust a binding mounted for next size up or down enough to suit? Or is a remount always necessary except in the case it's mounted for the same BSL?
Knowing the answer to the above question will make hunting much simpler, as I don't have to keep asking what BSL the bindings were mounted for.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
|
You do need to ask the bsl because typical heel adjustment will only be 5mm or so fore or aft (maybe less @scouserainman will probably reel them off for you by make). Obviously if you buy with a demo binding or rail binding you can be less dilligent.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
|
If you’re looking for a piste/all mountain type ski, there are usually lots available with rail bindings. These are mounted before sale, so not for any particular boot size, though they will take into account that e.g. shorter skies will mostly be skied by smaller people who have smaller feet. They also have the advantage that you can slide the toe and heel pieces off for easy packing, just mark the rail with a sharpie first and you can slide them back to the sane position.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
|
If you get ones with plates that the bindings mount into then there isn't a real limit to how many times they can be remounted.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
| Dave of the Marmottes wrote: |
| You do need to ask the bsl because typical heel adjustment will only be 5mm or so fore or aft (maybe less @scouserainman will probably reel them off for you by make). |
That’s good news if it’s up to 5mm!
Because I can easily tell if the noted BSL is within x millimeter of my boot’s BSL.
Second question related to that. Say the BSL is just over 5mm (or x mm) different, and a remount would be necessary, do I need to be concerned about screw hole overlap? 5 (or less) mm isn’t a lot of room for a set of new screw holes...
Just trying to avoid getting into situation that presents problems.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
| abc wrote: |
| Second question related to that. Say the BSL is just over 5mm (or x mm) different, and a remount would be necessary, do I need to be concerned about screw hole overlap? 5 (or less) mm isn’t a lot of room for a set of new screw holes... |
Yes you do – you need a minimum clearance between each set of holes, so shuffling them along a tiny bit doesn't really work. However, different bindings have different screw points, so you can sometimes get around it by changing the binding. You need someone who can compare mount points for you, like this https://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=134462&start=320#3529038
I'd still look for a rail or demo – it'll save you all this hassle.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Without looking at them, I think my Markers have 10mm adjustment. Nevertheless, had to move the heel in as my new boots have such a smaller BSL than my old ones. Didn’t move the toes.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Not sure rail bindings will be so easy to come across. I've buying (new) kit for my children over the last couple of seasons and there is a restricted range available. They are a great idea for selling on or for shared usage but most people don't need/think about this when buying. And I think it's generally thought that fixed is better, even though rail bindings have had design improvements and arguably of equal function/worth. I guess it depends how specific your set up is.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
| Quote: |
Second question related to that. Say the BSL is just over 5mm (or x mm) different, and a remount would be necessary, do I need to be concerned about screw hole overlap? 5 (or less) mm isn’t a lot of room for a set of new screw holes...
|
In general you can normally remount once on a pair of skis, though you may need to move the binding back or forward a little (providing you are not too fussy about the binding mid point), but you're unlikely to be able to get space to remount a second time. The problem is, you're unlikely to know if a given pair of skis has already had bindings remounted until you remove the bindings
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rule of thumb is 10mm between holes if drilling for new bindings, so you'd probably not notice of you need to reposition bindings a few mm
This is a pic of QKs on a set of skis already drilled for Alpine & Dynafit bindings, where I was adding some Outlaw-X Tele bindings - in this case I resorted to making a riser plate due to clash of the front 2 holes
|
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
@abc, if you're getting skis for "doing drills and practising form" then you should be a getting a piste ski - and 99% of them come with a factory mounted rail/binding set-up which is adjustable for all boot sole lengths - so the question of mounting conflicts is a non issue.
If you get a ski with a flat mounted binding (ie no rail and bindings attached directly to the flat top of the ski) then they will have been mounted for a specific boot sole length and for the mounting pattern of that specific make/model of binding. Every binding make/model has a different amount of heel adjustment that can be from boogerall to loads but any length adjustment will move the fore/aft position of the boot on the ski which may or may not be noticeable. If there's insufficient length adjustment then a remount will be necessary and, as @geoffers says above you really want 10mm separation centre to centre.
|
|
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
| spyderjon wrote: |
| @abc, if you're getting skis for "doing drills and practising form" then you should be a getting a piste ski - and 99% of them come with a factory mounted rail/binding set-up which is adjustable for all boot sole lengths - so the question of mounting conflicts is a non issue. |
@spyderjon, you're probably right.
I've now realized some of the skis didn't list their binding BSL probably because those are rail bindings. Just need to pay attention to what bindings they have.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
@abc, what boot sole type do you have as most rail type alpine bindings from the last two seasons will take either an alpine or GripWalk sole but before that they'd be alpine sole only. If you've got either a WTR sole of a full touring sole then that'll scupper your plans somewhat.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You know it makes sense.
|
|
@spyderjon, no worry there. Just plain old boring regular alpine sole
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
FAQ
