But please do work out how to set forward pressure on your bindings - ---- Muy Importante.....
I visited Head's website, but they don't seem to provide any downloadable manuals. They do have disclaimers that state that skis are only to be adjusted by qualified professionals, etc.
This depicts an almost identical binding, and it seems 'forward pressure' is a consequence of setting the correct sole length - which I've done. There is no separate adjustment.
Interestingly in the last couple of seconds of the video from 4:49 you can see the same rear DIN setting gauge that has the thick red bar with silver line adjacent. Earlier in the video you can see that the front DIN setting has the very obvious 'black line on white' gauge.
From closer viewing it seems the ski in the video is set to 3.5, which means that the chappie has used the leading edge of the red bar - given this is where 3.5 comes to on the rear gauge.
So, I think my answer is number 1 - the front edge of the red block is what should be aligned with the scale to achieve the respective DIN value.
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
crosbie, the foward pressure adjustment is the binding length adjustment. It's important because it determines the amount of forward pressure the spring loaded free floating heel applies to the rear of the boot to push it in to the toe binding. The din settings on the toe and heel bindings are only accurate when the forward pressure (ie the binding length) is correctly set. The correct forward pressure also ensures that the free floating heel binding stays in constant contact and applies constant pressure to the boot even when the ski is heavily flexed or cambered and thus ensuring that the dins stay at a constant value etc.
Some bindings have a forward pressure adjustment (ie a fine length adjustment) that's seperate to coarse length adjustment and some don't. However ALL alpine bindings have a visual indicator on the heel so that the correct forward pressure/binding length can be confirmed, but this indicator varies in its location and method of operation between different makes/models of binding.
The Tyrolia/Head Joy 9 binding is a rail binding that does not have a seperate fine length adjuster, it only has a lever on the toe and heel to set their respective positions on the rail. The forward pressure indicator is a series of 5 lines/grooves in the top surface of the silver heel length adjustment lever immediately behind the plastic body of the heel binding.
First set the position of the toe binding on the rail by postioning it on the length scale to match the boot sole length of the boot. Now position the heel binding on the rail to match the sole length. Now this is time to check the foward pressure indicator. When the boot is out of the binding all five of the lines are visible but when the boot is installed and the binding is set to the correct length then the boot will push the heel binding rearward (approx 4-6mm) so that the rear face of the binding will fall within the lines. Anywhere within the lines is acceptable but the nearer the middle the better.
On a Head rail binding when the toe and heel positions are set to the sole length then the foward pressure will NOT be correct about 50% of the time and the heel length must be shortened by one or two graduations to ensure that the foward pressure is correct. Blindly trusting the heel length scale is a recipe for disaster and other makes of rail binding can be equally inaccurate. It'd be far better if the makers used an alpha or numbered system for the heel length graduations as opposed to sole lengths as thus would ensure that the forward pressure indicator is properly checked.
With regard to the heel din setting, at the toe end of the red plastic section there is a half mm ride ridge running across the red plastic and that needs to be positioned adjacent to the din setting you require.
And din settings are determined by age, height, weight, boot sole length and skier type.
@crosbie, glad @spyderjon has shown up. He probably knows more about bindings than anyone else in Snowheads.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
spyderjon wrote:
When the boot is out of the binding all five of the lines are visible but when the boot is installed and the binding is set to the correct length then the boot will push the heel binding rearward (approx 4-6mm) so that the rear face of the binding will fall within the lines. Anywhere within the lines is acceptable but the nearer the middle the better.
Yes, I already did this, but I assumed it was just a visual check that the sole length had been set correctly.
I have had no idea what the term 'forward pressure' means. My best guess would have interpreted it to mean how firmly the toe of the boot pressed into the ski (a bit strange, but then skiing is strange).
spyderjon wrote:
With regard to the heel din setting, at the toe end of the red plastic section there is a half mm ride ridge running across the red plastic and that needs to be positioned adjacent to the din setting you require.
Ok, so not the leading edge of the red bit, but the centre of an almost invisible ridge at the leading edge? Right.
Of course, everyone knows this - it's not exactly rocket science after all.
It's no doubt also easily found via Google - if you know how to search for it.
Anyway, thank you @spyderjon for a full and authoritative answer.
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Incidentally @BobinCH, thanks for saving me the hassle of taking & uploading a photo.
After all it is free
After all it is free
@crosbie, Take a photo of the actual binding, with the heel closed (that is as it would be with a boot in it), and upload it.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
[quote="crosbie"]
spyderjon wrote:
I have had no idea what the term 'forward pressure' means. My best guess would have interpreted it to mean how firmly the toe of the boot pressed into the ski (a bit strange, but then skiing is strange).
.
Which is why so many of us said take it to someone who knows what they are doing. Bindings are safety critical.
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
@davkt, You might want to tidy up your code a bit there, I'm pretty sure @spyderjon would never say any such thing.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
@rjs, The photo would look identical to the frame from the video above.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
davkt wrote:
Which is why so many of us said take it to someone who knows what they are doing. Bindings are safety critical.
On every forum where people seek knowledgeable advice, there's always someone who says 'consult an expert', etc. On an electrics forum there'll be someone who says 'you need to consult an electrician', etc. These suggestions are facile, and tend to imply the person seeking advice is a moron, and that the forum they've approached is the wrong place to seek advice.
I sought advice on SnowHeads, and obtained it (thanks to @spyderjon).
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
@crosbie, SpyderJon is the expert to consult, that's why. He does it for a living.
In the same way that anyone doing their own electrics risks setting fire to things, you risk f***ing up your other half's knees if you've not done it correctly, that's why people say seek proper advice.
Personally I wire some of my own stuff and I set up my own bindings, but I'm aware of the risks I face by doing that. As long as you, and your other half, understand that then crack on, but that's why so many suggest going to someone who knows what they're doing. Not like it would cost much to do.
You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
@SnoodlesMcFlude, the good thing about a forum is that it's a better way of obtaining expert advice than physically going to an expert. The problem with the latter is that unless you have a second expert to corroborate what the first expert says, you're not entirely sure if you really have obtained expert advice. Whereas, with a forum, it's somewhat self-policing/self-regulating/auto-peer-reviewed, such that you either find things settle down towards the consensus expert answer, or things head toward controversy or agree-to-disagree difference of expert opinions.
No doubt, somewhere, there is a forum where people discuss forums, and this aspect of obtaining expertise is expounded upon.
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
rjs wrote:
@crosbie, Take a photo of the actual binding, with the heel closed (that is as it would be with a boot in it), and upload it.
Ok, just for you...
The boot sole is 308mm:
Here are the bindings adjusted for that 308mm sole length:
Here is the 'forward pressure' gauge with a boot in and a boot missing:
Front DIN settings of 5.5:
Rear DIN setting of 5.5 for ski a:
Rear DIN setting of 5.5 for ski b:
The video posted above is a Tyrolia ski binding, so given the following it should be easy to see why it is almost identical with a Head Joy binding:
Quote:
Tyrolia sells more ski bindings than any company in the world. Tyrolia makes bindings for other companies such as Head, Fischer and Elan. So any binding from these companies is equivalent to a Tyrolia binding.
Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
For completeness, here is an old post concerning Head Joy 9 ski bindings (which @spyderjon also responded to):
FAQ
Poster: A snowHead
