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Rough guide to Les Contamines?

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Booked for half term, not been there before. Anyone got some top tips or recommendations (or warnings from history!). Anything and everything gratefully listened to, good bars, restaurants, mountain haunts, routes, secret stashes etc, etc.

Driving there with the kids, will probably be looking for some lessons for them too...

Wisdom of crowds, guide me!
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
@jedster is your man
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
La Roselette - my favourite restaurant. Lovely position beside drag lift of same name. Don't be fooled by piste map which looks as if you can ski down to Hauteluce, the "other" side of the Col. You can ski down to the Hauteluce Valley, but the village of that name (and thus the entry to Les Saisies skiing) is quite a few miles down the valley. There are buses, but half term you're as well staying in Les Contamines. Good choice for half term. To keep lunch costs down there's a warm place to eat sandwiches and buy a drink, at Signal, which is kind of the "cross roads" of the lifts. I think that's where a lot of ski lessons start - but jedster is much more up to date than I.
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@Dave of the Marmottes,
+1 for @jedster

Also @alpineaddict and @miranda know Les Contamines well I think.

I enjoyed a day there. I’d try to access other parts of EMB via St Gervais if possible, though I know it can get very busy Feb half term.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
I feel that for a family with kids LC would be fine for a week, and time spent faffing round on buses a bit of a waste - especially if they plan to have some lessons.
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I reviewed our two days there last January (see the posts from Monday and Tuesday of the holiday here, including favourite runs and restaurant prices.

Decent and quiet resort, fairly small, probably good for off piste too. Basically agree with everything @PeakyB says!
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Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
@pam w, @Richard_Sideways, said they were driving & while I agree LC is great I would recommend at least 1 day down in StG as its on same pass
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Great place, been lots...bad weather escape from Chamonix and more recently family weeks and for a week with kids, haven't wanted to go out of area...some great little routes between the pistes. Not a place for the full on stuff but I don't take the family on those trips.
Children's lessons - Snowsession ESI - Phillipe...have been very good as long as they have the right combination of lessons/timing for your needs.
Nice routes down from top of veleray to bottom of grevettaz well off the sides of any piste that might be there... also straight off from top of Buche Croisse (or go right for a bit) down the V shaped valley through the woods (bit gnarly hope it has been tracked for first few goes) to lovely valley (bit flat but peaceful) and out to Belleville piste
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Quote:

bad weather escape from Chamonix

certainly a bad snow escape - I have a friend with an apartment in Chamonix and it was a regular trip for them when snow poor in Chamonix. Top of LC holds it snow very well (though the Belleville side, opposite aspect, doesn't - makes sense). Can be a bit bleak up on the Col in poor weather but stunning views. Mont Blanc "in yer face".
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Quote:

bad weather escape from Chamonix

certainly a bad snow escape - I have a friend with an apartment in Chamonix and it was a regular trip for them when snow poor in Chamonix. Top of LC holds it snow very well (though the Belleville side, opposite aspect, doesn't - makes sense). Can be a bit bleak up on the Col in poor weather but stunning views. Mont Blanc "in yer face".
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@Richard_Sideways,

anything specific do ask but general pointers:

skiing at HT - I'd aim to get to the bubbles for lift open or 10. It's not a disaster if you get caught in the queue but you may as well have an extra cup of coffee and go after the queues have dissipated.
Will you have a car? If so I'd aim to park at the Gorge bubble - a bit easier. If you are getting the bus, worth knowing that there are more frequent services from the Lay bubble (on the way back).

The ski area is pretty obvious. Once you are up the bubble there are very few pinch points for queues. The one I'd mention is the Grevettaz drag - best avoided (except early or late) on bluebird days at HT. If there is powder and the avvy risk is OK I'd make an exception for the long off piste runs from Croche or Veleray to the drag (and if there was a big queue you could ski to the valley).

One issue is whether to get an EMB or Les C pass. I'd make a call on the weather forecast. If the weather looks bad then I might go for EMB - nice to have the option of driving to St G for more trees. But if the weather is good you will have better snow and fewer crowds in Les C and I'd save money and go for Les C.

In general, I think the restaurants on the mountain are better than in the village (more because the mountain ones are good). As Pam says, I really like the Roselette but the Buche Croisse, Grange and the bar down in Hauteluce are all really good. Worth booking at HT - either phone or swing by on one of your early morning runs. The Auberge de Collombaz is amazing but off piste (follow down the road from the bottom of the Grevattaz) but DO BOOK or Madame will send you packing. If you prefer lighter/cheaper lunches then there are a couple of huts near Signal serving decent sandwiches and chips. There is a snack bar in an old shepherds hut with great views of Mt Blanc in the Tierces area neat Coins blue run - which is a great option for panini / saussice frites etc

There are three supermarkets in the town and and all are pretty good and the prices are basically the same as the valley. It's easy to shop in Les C for what you need. The restaurants in the village do get busy at HT - especially Friday night - so if you want to eat out on your last night do book.

Nightlife is minimal. Rhodos and Ty Briez are our favourite places to drink. ALso serve crepes. TB does good burgers. The restaurants are fine - all pretty typical. There are a couple of places that do takeaway pizza. One restaurant if you feel like something a bit more up market is O de la Bouche - it's good.


Last edited by snowHeads are a friendly bunch. on Mon 14-10-19 10:09; edited 1 time in total
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
BTW as I remember "sideways" refers to your ungodly snowboarding behaviour Very Happy In which case, worth noting that you'd have a bit more of a walk (very pleasant though) to the Auberge
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So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
@Richard_Sideways, it may've been said already but anyway:

- The valley runs roughly north-south and the main area is to the west. There are buses to the lifts which take you up west to the main station. There is an indoor picnic area as well as a restaurant. Lessons all seem to happen here as well: at least they did last season. The green slopes and slalom course are set up in this area.

If you do want a little off-piste then there is a run in an area called 'le Puyet' which is easy to find if you ask. If you head to the far west of the main valley then turn nother there is a bowl which is steep and good fun but is skiied out pretty quickly on good days. In the town there are various decent-looking bars. I'm not a massive party fan so didn't really go into any. If you go north of the bridge across to the UCPA there is a nice, quiet bar on the left overlooking the small gorge in the centre of town. There is also a nordic ski track to the south with a pretty church in the middle. All-in-all a decent place.

P.S. If you don't have laundry facilities there is a laundrette in the centre of town which is left open. There is also an ice-rink at some point during the season, this is down next to the gorge.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
@jedster, thanks very much for all this info, very helpful for the sideways/always household.

We've booked a bizarrely cheap (for HT!) 1 bed cabine place in Hameaux du Lay as experience has taught us that we are a bit rubbish getting ready in the mornings and getting kids on buses at HT is a nightmare so a quick walk to the lifts. I know that means it's more of a walk to town but that's less of an issue for a couple of nights out rather than chaos for 6 mornings.

Some great eatery recommendations there too - we tend to have quick chips type lunches (unless we offload the kids into lunchtime lessons!) although the boys are partial to a crepe and fondue so sounds like we're sorted.

We are unsure about lessons - am guessing they all meet at the Etape area? Both our boys ski and board - 2nd / 3rd week for the latter so if they decide to board at half term, we'll need to get them lessons, less likely if they ski. Do you by any chance know of any board schools (other than ESF - him Sideways will not entertain them for board lessons!)?

For lift passes, I seem to be able to find a better deal if buying online in advance on EMB passes which makes it cheaper than Les C so we'll probably get the full area pass. Plus I've got a scratchy off where I've been ski map and St Gervais is on there so we have to go there Laughing
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
That's very easy for skiing then! The walk to town is pleasant and easy (good track by the river) so no problem - I've even walked it a few times in ski boots carrying skis after skiing which is fine if not ideal.
Perhaps worth saying that Penz Sport at the HdL bubble as ski lockers. At HT you'd need to be hiring some of your gear from them to get a (heated) locker but it's very handy as you'd walk past it on the way to the lift.

The apartments in HdL can be very compact!

On board lessons, Philippe who runs ESI also has a board shop (Tasmania Sports) which doubles as the ski school office. I might start there. I'd book early for HT.
Ski schools do meet at Etape by for lunchtime private lessons the meetings points can be a bit more flexible.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
My TR from Les Contamines from 7 years ago: https://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?p=2206261&

Maybe gives you a flavour of the place.

We stayed in Hameux too.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Thanks looking with interest at this. Son has just signed up for school ski trip to Les Contamines at end of March. Never been ourselves but I guess skiing must suit intermediates if it is a favourite of school groups.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Quote:

I guess skiing must suit intermediates if it is a favourite of school groups.

I don't think it's a "standard" school destination. Interesting that your son is going. It's a good late season destination.
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I'm not sure if they've been mentioned but a couple of things of note.

#1 There is only one return piste from Etape to the base of the mountain. It's graded red and it gets quite narrow and cut up in places so naturally at going home time it has a bit of a 'demolition derby' reputation. Some/many choose to download. Which of course is no hardship - although I did it with my kids most days - but a heads up.

#2 There are several steep drag lifts. If your kids are quite small or light do not take them on these as they will be yanked off their feet and slide down. You can see the warning triangles on the piste map and/or you can read my TR above on how I found out through bitter experience!
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@pamw. His school went there last year too. This is with y5 and 6 boys. Will be interested to hear his opinion. For his age he is opinionated about Snow quality! Snow has to be better than Passo Tonale! The beloved resort of school ski trips. (Yes guilty)
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Great option for a school trip end march I think
Should have very good snow and quiet pistes. Scale of ski area and village is highly conducive too managing a gang of boys!
The pistes are good for intermediates. The weakness of the ski area is the shortage of really challenging piste skiing (less of an issue if you like skiing off piste and particularly if you are willing to skin).
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
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Quote:

I don't think it's a "standard" school destination.


I'd say not, probably because there aren't many hotels (3 fairly small ones plus the UCPA)
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@Layne, thanks for the link to your TR, nice pics too Very Happy
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My family and I went to Les C. last year at Half term (although it wasn't the Paris week). This year we're heading back - even though it is Paris week. Most days the queues for the bubble up was pretty short (5 mins) - but we did time it badly and get caught in a 30 minute queue one day. So early or late works (as said). This was only our 2nd ski holiday, and I broke my thumb at the end of day 1!, but we saw enough that we wanted to go back and explore some more. Not much in Hameux du lay as said, but it's only a 10 minute walk into town along the stream. Nice short transfer from Geneva too. We got a taxi last time (I think 300 euro return?) ... but might look to hire a car this year (even though we're in HdL also) ... maybe mean we could try St. Gervias.

I'd be interested to know the cheapest place to buy lift passes ... if we could get the EMB pass for cheaper than the Les Cont. one then that makes hiring a car even more of a no-brainer!
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@zedzed_uk, if you can book soon https://www.ski-saintgervais.com/en/ family pass here for €724 for a week - was one of things selling it to us!
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Skied there for the first time last winter. Interested to see that it had the highest snowfall for any French ski resort last season.
We covered this in E42 of The Ski Podcast (44 mins in) - https://theskipodcast.com/podcast/episode-42-london-ski-show-high-5-festival-porsche-chairlifts-chemmy-alcott/
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
@zedzed_uk, @zedzed_uk,
Quote:

I'd be interested to know the cheapest place to buy lift passes ... if we could get the EMB pass for cheaper than the Les Cont. one then that makes hiring a car even more of a no-brainer!


I've never found EMB cheaper than Les C. Even the family deals for EMB are replicated cheaper for Les C (may not be as well advertised).
We tend to find it cheaper or similar (depends on the time of year) to hire a car than get a taxi and like to have the flexibility so normally hire.
I'd generally recommend hiring and getting EMB passes - IMO the skiing at Les C is better but St G etc is also nice and different so worth the visit particularly if you get bad weather (loads of tree-lined runs).
For Paris week, it's a bit less clearcut. I find that St G is MUCH more crowded than Les C in Feb so I'm much less inclined to make the trip down from Les C but then I've skied a lot in St G so it is less of a novelty for me... No right or wrong answer!
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
@jedster, I've got some flights into GVA mid Jan, Les C is on the short list depending on snow nearer the time! Do you know any recommneded guides/instructors who would do an intro to touring day out for myself and my wife? She'd need to hire touring skis and skins.

Are there any hotels within walking distance of the lifts that do short stays?
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
@kitenski,

It's a great place to do an intro to touring.
I'd contact the guides office (same building as tourist office and ESF office in village centre).
https://www.guides-mont-blanc.com/en/
The Guides company is joint between St G and Les C but there is a satellite office in Les C.
The shop across the road (Ronchail Sport / Intersport) has a great range of touring gear to hire at very reasonable rates.

There are three hotels in Les C - all fairly basic but fine. The one nearest the lifts is Le Chemenaz - easy walk. The other two are walkable in touring boots but you'd generally catch the navette bus (stops nearby). I am very confident you'd get a room at short notice in any of them in mid-Jan. You MIGHT find they aren't yet ready to take a booking (HOPING to get bookings for a full week) but they do lots of short break bookings in Jan.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
I've just got our lift passes on an early booking offer on until 30th Nov - 6 day EMB family pass on LC website €818 but on St Gervais website on €732, both delivered to the UK so went, funnily enough, for the latter!
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
So given the week I'm going is Paris holiday week I'll just be sticking to Les Cont. for skiing. Looks like the cheapest I can get for 6 days for us as a family (2 adults and 2 children) is €703.60 (inc. 4 x keycard at €2 each). Anyone aware of any way of getting it cheaper? It does seem kinda crazy that for only €30 more we could also ski St. Gervais ... but we're all novice skiers to not keen on going anywhere that might be mega busy!
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