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St Anton?

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
With the exception of one, everyone in our group is a comfortable intermediate tackling pretty much anything on piste so we have decided to have a look at St Anton next year. We have the following requirements so will St Anton fit the bill?

We have skiied quite a few Austrian resorts now and love Saalbach. We would go back but we fancy a change, so will St Anton offer the following:

1. Easy access to the slopes - just one lift out of town or are several easily accessible?
2. Lots of mountain restaurants?
3. Reasonably priced mountain grub? We usually pay around €20 for 2 people for a meal each (tiroler grostl etc)and one drink.
4. Cheesy apres ski/ski boot stomping straight off the slopes? - I think I know the answer to that one!
5. Long pisted, well linked runs?
6. Does the ski pass cover Lech?

We are slightly concerned about the stories regarding moguled runs etc. My experience is that most runs become moguled after lunch so that won't be a problem but we are all used to all the pistes being groomed overnight. So how bad is it?

Finally, we have a 3rd weeker who prefers to potter around on blues close to home. Are there a few gentle blues near the resort to suit this person, the piste map seems to suggest there are?

Any hotel recommendations would be welcomed. Transport and hotel (half board) budget is approx. £650 each. And if anyone can suggest an alternative resort which offers the above that would also be fine, but we do prefer traditional resorts.

Thanks in advance!
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Quote:

4. Cheesy apres ski/ski boot stomping straight off the slopes? - I think I know the answer to that one!

Yes but is it full of hairy a***d blokes during apres ski or will there be female fun and loud music? I know that's not terribly PC but I don't want to spend all my apres discussing the fastest, steepest, deepest etc.. with guys when I've skied with them all day.
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All the above are no problem great resort just book it

http://www.stantonamarlberg.com/ is very useful, loads of cheesy dancing too
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hayley t,
1) Yes from St.Anton and Nasserein you have direct access to the slopes.
2) Plenty of mountain restaurants, some the usual food factories, and some quite good ones.
3) Not sure. I've not been to St.Anton for a couple of years now.
4) Apres is world famous.
5) Absolutely.
6) Yes, but there is no direct link. You have to drive.

The pistes are prefectly prepared every night. You have some killer mogul fields that don't get touched (obviously), but they are easy to avoid if you want to do them.

The only downside is that it's definitely not a beginners resort. If you feel comfortable on easy blacks or steeper reds then I guess you will have a load of fun there. If you don't like that level then it's not the right place for you. St.Anton is famous for it's off piste, not for it's on piste. The other downside is that in high season it can get quite crowded on the pistes.
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halfhand, it is a bit blokey, but good fun all the same. Noone takes themselves too seriously in the Mooserwirt.

hayley t, the grooming policy is part of what makes it such a good resort IMO.
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been to St Anton a few times, last there Dec 05, has all that you want. Skiing over to Lech for the day is great ( V posh, heated chair lifts!!! Shocked )but you have to get a bus for part of the way, its easy though. Apres great, shopping excellent Smile
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Thanks everyone. It's looking good.
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we went apr 05. my first time skiing, i was told by everyone it wasnt a beginners resort, but despite nearly killing myself on the first day (heck are slopes different to snow domes and plastic stuff) got on fine for the rest of the week, even ventured on to a few reds by thurs/friday.

your friend on the blues will love the route down to st chrisoph for lunch. guaranteed.

I cant wait to go back, and ok, I havent been to many places but it has everything you are looking for! I was amazed this year when there was no moguls on the slopes though, I missed them, they were good fun.
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Been to St Anton 6 times over the years - great place & a great value lift pass!! (Pssst! - buy it from the Tourist Office , it's cheaper than the TO AND keep it for the next year, you'll get a discount!)
BTW, - cheapest place for nosh? - the Albonergratten at the top of the Albonergratt lift in Stuben. - NB> The free (BLUE) buses from StAnton have poor connections back to StAnton from Stuben so take care on your time if you foray to this great off-piste arena (gets loads of snow & is North-facing so holds the pow. for days!)
My advice is, if you want to really get to ski the area, ask for Harry at the Arlberg ski school ( or better still, go to the Mooserwirt at 12noon - he has his lunch there) OR, Graham Austick of www.skimountaineering.com. - book a day with him & you'll know what skiing is about!
Need to know anything else? Very Happy
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skiologist, thanks. I have never skiied off-piste before and was going to take the plunge this time - with some lessons of course.

If you have any hotel recommendations (good location) that would be great. We usually go for a 4 star.
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hayley t, lots of good 4 star hotels in St Anton, can be a tad pricey though, I've stayed in the Post which was superb in every respect. Contact the tourist office for a definitive list, they are very helpful.
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Am I right in thinking St Anton is the general description for skiers going to all three separate (unlinked) areas of St Anton, Lech and Stuben/Klosterle in Arlberg which claims to have 260 to 280km piste?

Seem to me the St Anton, which has its own sizeable 120km piste area as it is linked with St Christoph,/St Jacob, is for a different market whereas the equally large Zurs/Lech/Zug area is more exclusive with skiers willing to pay 1000 Euro/night. The latter appears to be a favourite destination for some royal families. Is this just a misconception? Would hayley t do better by amending the title from "St Anton" to "Lech", giving the impression of going to a resort favoured by Lady Diana.

Just wondering why the Austrians not bother to link the skiing of Lech/Zug/Zurs with St Anton together.
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saikee, no! The general description for the entire area is 'Arlberg'. Alberg is the name of a mountain that doesn't exist Puzzled Nobody seems to have a good explanation for that one, at least I've never heard one yet.
I believe there are plans right now to link Lech/Zuers and St.Anton. Not sure when that will become reality, if ever. Right now you 'can' ski from St.Anton to Zuers via the Valluga, but it's a bit steep and they only let you up to the top of the Valluga with a guide (you can walk the last stage if you are really desperate to do the run without a guide).

Lech doesn't have to be outrageously expensive. I've stayed there many times and have never paid 1000 Euros a night. The best place I stayed in was up in Oberlech at end of season. Was about 250 Euros a night in a five star hotel! Magic.
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You know it makes sense.
saikee, I want to stay in St Anton, not Lech, they are completely different places. I would like to spend a day skiing in Lech though if it's covered on the lift pass and we can get there via bus.

Mike Lawrie, I'm still not sure about the DIY route as there are around 10 of us to organise! Most tour ops offer a reasonable selection of places but I was hoping for some first hand experiences.
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I've just returned from a week in Lech and spent one day in St Anton (went by bus). Yes, they are utterly different!

I love Lech in that the skiing is fabulous and pistes generally quieter. The general age group in Lech tends to be older (and wears more fur!) and the standard of skiing (we all thought) was higher. St Anton and St Chrisophe were excellent fun for the day. The age group is without doubt younger in St Anton and some of the pistes a bit harder and bumpier. Is it my imagination or is the level of skiing there lower (i.e. saw quite a lot of fast, skiers but little control and had a few near misses with some)? (no offence intended!).

The apres ski is something else though. Finishing our day at the Mooswirt with dancing girls taking their t-shirts off and dj's on the balcony getting the crowd signing was excellent. Even I have to admit Lech felt a bit too civilised on our return!
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Beverley,

The reason I brought up the discussion is because I have the same feeling as you. To me skiing in Lech seems more civilised and there is a Tignes/Val D atmosphere in St Anton.

Mark Lawrie,

As far as I am aware one can take the Valluga chairlift to the highest point in St Anton and ski off piste with a guide to somewhere in Zurs. The route and cost should be beyond the average skier I would have thought.

If I were the Mayor of Arlberg I wouldn't want Lech and Zurs spoiled by the massive influx of skiers from St. Anton. For start I would have to relocate the heliskiing business by moving the helicoptor pad in Zurs which would be in the way if a link is formed. If one can easily access the wonderfully quiet and snowsure skiing domain of Zurs/Zug/Lech the hotels there may not be able to command the current prices. Something has to give and the character will be lost permanently. At the moment you do get a privilege feeling by skiing there because it is further deep inside the valley, isolated, with less skiers but plenty of snow/piste for everybody.

In fact I would dare to say the crowd in Zurs/Lech/Zug is predominately formed by the visitors doing the White Ring because we did not see much queuing for chairlifts unrelated to the White Ring. Even the queues for the White Ring were nothing by the French standard. The two times we did the White Ring we could park our car just one flight of steps from the chairlift. There seem to be always a significant number of people in the mountain restaurant at the top of the Rufikopf cable car who are neither skiers nor boarders but just go there just for holiday.
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I've found that a lot of skiers prefer to 'ski-in ski out' from their accommodation which is why France is popular in addition to it's extensive skiing of course! However, I don't mind a walk to the lifts or even getting a bus for 20-30 mins to another resort for odd day trips. Anyway, the point I'm getting to is that a lot of people are put off by this and probably don't bother branching out from their base resort, so it's unlikely that places like Lech will become overrun. Besides, don't they limit the number of lift passes in Lech to avoid overcrowding?

saikee, don't worry, we are fairly civilised so we won't ruin Lech for you if we visit!!
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Lech is unique in that it limits the resort to 14,000 lift passes (first priority are to those staying in the village - there are roughly 8,000 beds). Once this number is reached then day passes are no longer sold. Apparently there are illuminated signs on the road leading to Lech to indicate this. However, the St Anton lift pass guarantees one day in Lech and vice versa.
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hayley t,

I bring out Lech/Zurs/Zug because I wouldn't consider it a resort outside St Anton. It is just the number of skiers is more and the atmosphere is different in the two places.

You must visit Lech/Zurs/Zug because it is at least as large as St Anton if not bigger.

I stayed in Pettneu is 5 miles away from St Anton. 10 miles get me to Zurs and 15 miles I would be in Lech. Thus the travelling distance is not far at all but physically the Lech/Zurs/Zug area has been traditionally preserved and not massively developed.

I have reported my Garmisch/St Anton/Dolomiti trip and highlighted the different aspects of the Lech/Zurs/Zug circuit to assist skiers to plan to have a go at the White Ring, which is not difficult and can be easily managed by intermediates. It would make a fantastic day for any group from St Anton. The ski-route section of the Ring, which is ungroomed but it is so well used that it is no different to any groomed piste. Although it is officially a red slope but there isn't any tricky area. I would say Austrians can do nothing to the slopes but just replace the ski-route signs with the normal piste signs and no one can tell the difference, except on the day after a fresh dump.

The St Anton circuit is pretty extensive too and takes some time to explode St Christopt, Stubent and the opposite side of the valley. However going to St Anton and not skiing Lech/Zurs/Zug just doesn't make sense to me.

I am not aware any limitation in the Arlberg ski pass. I suppose it is like every resort in buying a St Anton-only skipass at a cheaper rate it will bound to have some limitations on how far and often it can be used outside the purchased domain.

Beveley,

Your information could be true but as we were allowed to purchase a 7 days pass we didn't know there was a restriction on the number. I am self have doubt on how the restriction can be enforced on Arlberg pass which also covers the third area of Stubent/Klosterle. I suppose your restriction is applicable to "Lech-only" ski pass to be purchase and used exclusively in Lech/Zug/Zurs.

As Lech/Zug/Zurs can only be reached by ski buses runing at scheduled time with a fixed capacity the number of visitors to that area is indirectly controlled and monitored. The number of car drivers is low enough not to be bothered. The Zurs has a sizeable car park outside and limited spaces inside. Lech also has a large car park next to the main chairlift area. We had to pay 7 Euro to park in St Anton but totally free elsewhere in Arlberg, including inside the large Lech car park. Our experience is Lech does welcome outside visitors even at the peak season.
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Saikee, I don't know how the restricted lift pass system works, but this is what their brochure told me!

The White Ring when we did it last Tuesday was relatively quiet and, as you say, easily skied by intermediates, its well worth doing if you are just there for the day (though I gather this is one of areas they close first in bad weather). Another day we skied in the Zurs area in a beautiful quiet bowl, piste 7 (I think) a red that goes from the top of Trittkopf cable all the way back down to Zurs a lovely run, though some parts were a little steep at the top. The one run I don't like to think of is the red 35 (or 35a) in Lech. I messed up my first turn, fell and came sliding down face first, gathering speed as I went. Unfortunately my skis failed to pop off and I dragged them along with me. After a very shaky, wobbly ski back to Oberlech a good number of Glunwein was consumed, I can tell you! Sad

We stayed at the Hotel Panorama in Lech. A small 4* with some 22 rooms, extremely friendly and great rooms and food. It was a short stroll from the Schloskopfe 2 man chairlift and then onto some lovely blues into Oberlech and the rest of the system. Highly recommended.
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saikee, thanks for the new name! Like I said, you have to have a guide with you or they won't let you up there. I have done it with the DAV while on a touring/ski-plus holiday, which was basically the same price as any other skiing holiday would be, so not sure why you think only rich b*s can afford that kind of thing...

Anyway, I take issue with your assertion that Lech is purely reserved for the rich. It isn't. They limit the number of people that get into the resort every day because the resort has a limited capacity to handle the day trippers. Small problems like where to park all the cars arise. They deliberately have outrageous prices on day tickets for the same reason, but the prices for weekly tickets rapidly come down to a level that is similar to any of the other Austrian resorts. None of the hotels I have stayed in in Lech have been outrageously priced, especially when I compare the price/quality of hotels there with the price/quality in the hotels that I have to live in when forced to visit our office in Ascot Shocked
For your information, the most expensive and exclusive place in the Arlberg is in fact St. Christoph, and not Lech! The most expensive hotel is the Arlberg Hospitz in St. Christoph.
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Just back from St Anton yesterday. Loved the place, did the Mooserwirt, the KK on Paddys night, and found Bar Cuba to be a great place to spend a night. MILES cheaper to eat and drink than France, and we had a hotel that was only 50 yards or so from the gondola at the Nasserein end.

Skiied all over the St Anton area (bar Rendl), and thought the skiing was MUCH more difficult here than in France or Switzerland, a red really was a red etc.. The one thing I hadn't experienced before tho, was the state of the pistes on the St Anton side after about 2pm. Dunno if this was to do with how busy the resort was, or a usual thing but it was hard going on the old legs with all the pistes chopped up to buggery (I'd seen chopped up pistes before in France, but not to the extent that most of the main links were basically mogul fields most of the way down). Had a day each at both Lech and Zurs, and thought they were most enjoyable, and in far better condition than the St Anton side. Really enjoyed the Speed Gun thing at Lech, and one blue run in particular in Zurs was lovely.

As someone else mentioned, the Hospitz in St Christoph was a fantastic place, had lunch there one day, looked at all the photo's of the great and good that had ate in there (Charles and Di, King Juan Carlos, David Coulthard etc...), slid down the slide to the bog Wink The long blue run that leads off the Schindler red run right down into St Christoph was probably the best run I have ever skiied. Absolutely tonked down there on the 3rd morning on our way to Zurs Razz

Don't think it'll be too long till we find our way back there somehow Wink
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Charlatanefc, what was your hotel in St Anton called? Any good?
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Hayley t - Stayed at the Chalet Murr 3 years running - now run by Ski Total - have a look on TOs' website - it's owned by Frau Murr,an extremely nice Austrian lady & is the same name above the local supermarket . The chalet is situated on the main road into the town but is only a short walk to the Nasserin gondola down the street & up the walkway, or 2-300 yards up the street , past the ornate church , into the town centre, under the underpass & onto the slope. It is 3 star rated & meals are ok but, it has 3-4 single rooms & the best double, is room 1.
Alternatively, why not try Chalets' Cristophorus or Tirolerhaus , both in Nasserin (about 15-20 mins walk along the pedestrian walkway into town), but on the doorstep of the Nasserin gondola which wisks you straight up on to the Gampen plateau so you miss the crowds at the town base area Gampen-Galzig Bahn lift ( this gets busy at 9.15am)
So, it's up to you - pricey nearer town (Arlberg Hotel) but 4 star, OR , stay in Nasserin at Crystal Finest's 4 star Chalet Tirolerhaus or Inghams, Chalet Christophorus - 3+ Star rating I think.
My advice, for cheapness & accessiblity to nightlife & lifts, = Chalet Murr.
for 4 star quality & accessiblity to nightlife but annoying lift crowds = Arlberg Hotel
for 4 star quality & good access to pistes, but remoteness = Christopherus, or Tirolerhaus
Hope this helps.
BTW, DON'T stay at the Chalet Zwiegger - it's near to the Mooerwirt & slope , yes, but the meals are appauling! - was run by First Choice = 3 star ( should be 1 star ) - AND it's at the far (Rendl) end of town - poor access to buses.
Any more help?
Mike Lawrie - the last stage of the Valluga lift to the summit can be accessed on foot, BUT, as 2 Americans found out one year, you will be sent back down that 200 yard climb by the lifty if you are not with a guide - ask Graham Austick - he told me! wink
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hayley t, we stayed at the hotel Senn. As I say, was 50 yards from the Nasserein lift, massive clean rooms, friendly owners, worked out to 59Euros pppn.

http://www.tiscover.at/at/guide/5,en/objectId,ACC113831at/home.html
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skiologist, thanks for the tip. I have never walked up there myself, but have friends who have done it. I did that run about ten years ago, and I'm told that there have been a few accidents on the top section since then so maybe that explains why they have got stricter about it. Or maybe it depends on the general Avalanche situation whether or not they let people up there?

hayley t we have stayed in the Grieshof several times. Four star. Always been completely happy with the quality of food, rooms and service. They have a very nice sauna ( nudie of course) and swimming pool.
See http://www.tiscover.at/at/guide/5,de,SCH1/objectId,ACC346665at,curr,EUR,season,at2,selectedEntry,home/home.html
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Mike Lawrie - That's right - the top section of the Valluga is about 40 degrees + but ( & I can tell you from actually looking at it from the viewing point at the top of the cable car) , the first 200 yards can be fatal if you get it wrong as it is a narrow, very steep section with a big drop on one side. - it is also usually mogulled at the top. - needless to say, I was advised by Graham Austick not to attempt it - I took his advice & returned to the Underground at 5pm that day for the aftertalk.
Otherwise, a very good off-piste day - and all for 60 Euros! - not bad! Madeye-Smiley
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hayley t,

St A isn't a blue run resort IMV and the blue runs are uninspring but neccesary to get from A to B and you will not get any respite from them if you have people that want to ski that. Its red run resort and these runs and above are the attraction. St A works best if you are prepared to give it a go as places like Lech, Zurs and Rendl are places you not will every day.

I don't think it is a timid resort so if you have any people like that, it isn't Sallbach, its harder.
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JT, harder is fine for most of us. The more timid skiers (just 2 of them) will be in ski school and happy to ski just a handful of blue runs for the week and progress onto a wide red. We are ready for a bigger challenge now and we all want to be pushed a bit. The more timid skiiers willl just have to lump it as we have already put off going to St Anton for the last couple of years!

Thanks everyone for the hotel recommendations.
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hayley t,

Sounds like most of you will love it then, and a couple of evenings after skiing in the Moose and KK will sway those doubters....!! Laughing Laughing Laughing
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JT, where are the Moose and KK located (e.g. near which lift)?
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hayley t, both on the main valley run down to St.Anton from Galzig. Unfortunately they are a couple of hundred meters above St.A so you have to strap on skis and ski down to the valley through a mogul field (well it's usually well moguled by the time all the p*ssheads from the Krazy Kanguruh have been down it). After having been to the KK that can be a bit of an adventure rolling eyes
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Mike Lawrie, thanks, that could be interesting!
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hayley t,

The last bit in the dark and pi$$ed can be interesting...just avoid the pylon on the away down..and if you can't see that you really are hammered or lost...

At about 4 oclock just head down and listen for the music....chances are you will ski right by it and see zillions of skis racked up. Get the guys to ask for Maria in the KK and buy her a drink...

Laughing
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The Galzig run along the gondola is a red slope but ungroomed. The moguls will always be there because it is not a piste but a "ski route". Make sure you enjoy moguls before shooting down this No.3 run as you may them as high as tables. The No. 35 Kandahar-Kapall is a black slope from the top of Kapall chairlift which can close down in strong wind. I didn't try it but the run is linked to No. 25 Fang which is also a black slope and can be icy because it is a major route down to the bottom, although there are both red and blue slopes available too.

I would agree that St Anton is not an area for the timid intermediates. Easier areas can be found at the opposite valley of Rendl. St Christoph has long blue slopes and so easily manageable. Both are well linked to St. Anton.

Personally I find Oberlech to be the best place for for relax cruising. The "ski route" there, even those along the well-trafficed White Ring circuit of No. 32, 33, and 33a, are many times better to ski than those in St Anton as they are at least mogual-free. We found the No. 48 ski route as smooth as a airport runway because very few skiers bother to use it. Think we met no more than half a dozen skiers when we skied the run.
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We need more woman in St Anton.

In recent years with the advent of huge groups of blokes coming from the UK & Ireland.

St Anton is more like Brokeback Mountain Sad
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stanton,

Surly you mean Brokepack Mountain?
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stanton. Gay ski bums fighting the elements in St.Anton? Extreme skier comes home from a day in the couloirs only to find his boyfriend has been unfaithful with a dutch snowboarder... There's gotta be a film there somewhere.
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Hey I thought the heated seats provided by St Anton chairlifts was for comfort. Didn't know it is a necessity in the Brokeback Mountain!
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After 5 days of studying the mating habits of skius boardus especially in the piccadilly bar, I can now report that there is an extreme shortage of the female of the species in St Anton.
A young lady of my acquaintance who I would not describe as fainthearted, refused to enter the testerone zone without a chaperone.

I only wish I was around this coming week where they are holding Ladies week in the resort.

I have to say I grown tired of the resort it is like Faliraki on snow, my B&B room faced the high street on the route back to Nasserein, I was woken on a regular basis at 3 and 5 in the morning by returning revellers.
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