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Glisshop mounted bindings

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Looking at purchasing a set of skiis and bindings from Glisshop and wondering if anyone has had them mount bindings without having boots. I assume they work from the boot length I provide. Is this a risky prospect to order mounting online?
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
No it's fine if you have your sole length in mm. They should be ok but check them when you get them for forward pressure etc.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@Ozboy, as above BSL in mm , but check the forward pressure / DIN / and AFD (if adjustable) when you get them , never had a problem when just mounting on the line
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Not risky at all in my experience.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Dabber wrote:
@Ozboy, as above BSL in mm , but check the forward pressure / DIN / and AFD (if adjustable) when you get them , never had a problem when just mounting on the line


Thanks - how do I check forward pressure and what is ADF?

Also my DIN is 7 (for 2 more years Sad ). Is a binding rated at 12 okay as I am strong skiier and current bindings are 14.
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@Ozboy, Couple of years ago I was given a price for a pair of Scott skis from glisshop, and because I wasn't convinced by a guy I spoke to on the phone, I called SkiBartlett and asked if they would match the price and they not only matched it, but I got better bindings for the same price. Worth a call.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
If you’re skiing on 7 then why would it matter if the skis go to 12 or 14? Or have I missed something?

Forward pressure setting varies from binding to binding, try google to get an idea of how to set yours. Most will have a marker somewhere that you need to read when the boot is in position (you don’t need to be in the boot).
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@SnoodlesMcFlude,

I was once told that ideally the din setting should be in the middle of the range offered by the binding to provide the best release / retention. Ie if din is 5 then a 10 binding is fine. I wanted to confirm if this ‘theory’ still applies or has been debunked
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
@Ozboy, I'm no expert but my understanding is that the DIN is a set release pressure, the fact that the bindings can be set to 14 shouldn't mean that the pressure should be any different to release at 10 than if the maxed out at 11.
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 Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
I bought my skis from glisshop, set up exactly as I requested. I’ve done several trips on them and am very satisfied with glisshops services levels all round, would recommend!
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
@SnoodlesMcFlude, I spoke to the tech guy at Glisshop and he indicated that it’s best practice to look for bindings where the setting is in the middle of the range. The higher the din setting requirement more robust and heavy duty parts are required. A din of 7 should not be on a binding with max of 10 as these are generally made for lighter recreational skiers.


My skis arrived today by courier and boots fit well and also very well packaged. Indeed revered them last Wednesday. The Glisshop binding mounting service seems very efficient all done online.

Will probably transport them to the alps on BA in the cardboard / bubble wrap packaging they came in as i will be leaving them there.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
@Ozboy, so you/man at Glisshop, are saying that a binding with a max of 10 isn't suitable to be set on 7? I'm still not sure that's right, I can see how it's best to be in the middle of the scale, but surely either a binding is suitable for a DIN or it isn't? If it's not suitable for a 7 then it shouldn't go beyond that.
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So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
@SnoodlesMcFlude, yes that is what he said which confirmed what I was told by someone else 15 years ago when advised to go for a 14 binding on slalom skis. It makes sense if the materials etc on a 14 racing / advanced binding are better than those on a max 10 recreational binding. I think the risk probably has to do with premature release if an aggressive skier with a 7 din is pushing a binding that maxes at 10 whic would not be a good outcome. I also see your view and I went for a 12. Maybe someone here better qualified than me can shed some light.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
But surely it doesn't matter whether the skier is aggressive, if a binding releases at 7 then it releases at 7. The DIN measurement isn't based on the materials of the binding, it's based on the release level. By the Glisshop tech's line of thinking a binding at 7 with a max of 14 releases at a different level to a binding on 7 with a max of 10. I'd also be interested to hear other thoughts on it, to me it sounds like matey just trying to give a reason why you should spend more on a binding.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
@SnoodlesMcFlude, maybe you are right but I don't think the Glisshop tech had any commercial interest in which binding.


Copied the following form the Evo sight but this is echoed on other 'how to choose a ski binding' pages.

https://www.evo.com/guides/how-to-choose-ski-bindings-and-din-setting-chart#Recommended%20DIN%20Range

"Another important aspect of a ski binding is its strength. Higher DIN bindings designed for advanced and expert skiers are built with beefier construction and stronger materials to accomodate the higher forces generated while travelling at higher speeds and negotiating steeper, more technical terrain. Generally, the more advanced the skier the stronger and more elastic their binding should be. Attributes which contribute to a binding’s durability include material density and tensile strength, DIN range, metal parts instead of plastic, stiffness and design of pivot points."
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
SnoodlesMcFlude wrote:
But surely it doesn't matter whether the skier is aggressive, if a binding releases at 7 then it releases at 7. The DIN measurement isn't based on the materials of the binding, it's based on the release level. By the Glisshop tech's line of thinking a binding at 7 with a max of 14 releases at a different level to a binding on 7 with a max of 10. I'd also be interested to hear other thoughts on it, to me it sounds like matey just trying to give a reason why you should spend more on a binding.


In one sense you are right - a 7 DIN setting should be a given release pressure irrespective of the DIN range of the binding.

However, just as doing 120mph in a BMW M5 feels like a gentle cruise whereas it's a frantic ride in a Vauxhall Nova I think there are other factors at work here that mean that the tech is right. A binding that CAN go to 14 is more robust so therefore less likely to suffer distortion when forces are applied and will probably last longer for a bigger, more powerful skier. In general, running something near to its' maximum puts more stress on it than running something comfortably within its limits. Same reason that helicopter engines are relatively 'unstressed' ... they break less as a result.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
I've bought a few pair few glossop that they've mounted no problems
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
I have bought several pairs over the years from Glisshop, for myself and other family members with no problem at all with the binding setup. I had a minor delivery issue this January but that was just a frustration really. I get our skis delivered direct to our place in the Alps, saves on transport costs and also cheaper taxes too. Latest pair were Dynastar Legends which I am really pleased with.
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Dabber wrote:
@Ozboy, as above BSL in mm , but check the forward pressure / DIN / and AFD (if adjustable) when you get them....

This!

And wiith modern bindings there's absolutely no problem using a din setting at the extremes of the adjustment range. And you do not need to slacken off the din settings during hte off season!

Very few people do any research when selecting alpine bindings but the key to their performance is torsional stiffness, strength & (most importantly) the elastic travel in the toe/heel. Unfortunately most buyers spend all their time researching their potential new skis and then just buy the cheapest binding that is packaged by the retailer/manufacturer. So yes Snoodles is right in the 7 din is 7 din on any binding but there is a lot more going on. And it's not just a cost thing as there are lower cost/lower din bindings that have good elasticity/stiffness and there are higher cost/higher din bindings that have poor elasticity/stiffness.
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