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Burton Custom Board - faulty size and mounts Help

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Hi,

I recently noticed that the nose on my Burton Custom is way longer than the tail, much more than the default 20mm setback

I haven't used the board in about 5 years, i dusted it off this season and started to mount the bindings in the default position and noticed that the nose is a good 70mm longer than the tail with the binders in this position, this cant be right for a Burton Custom can it?

Surely if its a set back the nose should be around 50cm and the tail 50-2 = 48cm? or is my understanding wrong?

Also my board is a 162cm, but only measures 159cm
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
The referance stance is set back on the sidecut 20mm.
Board design is not what your implying and many others think wrongly the same as you .

You ride the sidecut which has a effective edge lenght which is not the base running lenght especially with long nose rocker .

Overall lenghts are totally irrelavant or ball park figures just like boot sizes........ they are just gumby recreational sales marketing which people wont understand for decades .


Example a 172cm spearhead is effectively a 162 cm board with a very long narrow nose over a foot long tacked on for fast edge to edge down the line powder ability yet will perform in tight challanging trees to a degree depending on depths .

Buy on design for purpose not marketing BS or sales person bolly olly.

It doesnt take alot to learn the std specs on a board but the brands wont help you much with that.... like once apon a time they did...as they want you to buy annually with zero understanding .
Churn and burn .


Last edited by Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person on Tue 8-01-19 20:42; edited 2 times in total
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Thanks for the fast reply,

So just to confirm if I set a centered stance this should have a longer nose than tail. The default for the custom is centered, but the nose is longer by 6cm when the bindings are mounted, is this correct?
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 You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
Forget the nose its all in your head as its a setback directional twin ie setback on the side cut not the nose lenght .

A std burton custom setback 20mm on the aprox 8.2 m sidecut is marked with its referance stance .

Are you wanting to center your bindings as on a twin design ?
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
If so just move them up 20 mm from the ref stance either via the 20mm disc range of adjustment or via the next 3D bolt position and also the 20mm of 3D Disc adjustment .
Its bit hard to say in text but is easy to work out at home .

Example in practise ...
A Volkle selecta is a 40-50cm setback 20mm tapered powder board .
If this is used on piste for carving it does help if the binders are set in a forward position from its referance stance .

This doesnt mean doing so will suit you and your goals....... but if you can use a scewdriver and have training time then go at it .
Snow conds matter here as do all varibles that are alpine conditions and terrain .
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 You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
Thanks Tirol164,

Yeah this is what i wanted to confirm, I'm taking measurements that are normal for the board but assuming they should be different and making stuff up in my head - I just need to confirm the measurements are ok.

I'll try and post some pics to explain the measurements I've taken for the board.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
I think if you find time to learn sidecut lenghts ,contact points and all the rest of it this will help your understanding greatly but only do it for your stick first so you know that backwards as it can be confusing.

You will finds further stats specs via EVO .COM as said the brands want to keep you stupid buying dumb on image......as snowboarding is sold on image .

Buy on design, adapt, ride more, train more and this will push setup and equipment quiet hard .
Nothing wrong with a older custom she is a all rounder .


Last edited by Then you can post your own questions or snow reports... on Tue 8-01-19 20:47; edited 1 time in total
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Im going to get half a day now on a narrow mag piste burner with lots nose lift

The biggest issue is my feet ankles legs nothing else matters once you have done the design maths .
I cant control weather I just ride it .


Last edited by After all it is free Go on u know u want to! on Tue 8-01-19 18:11; edited 1 time in total
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 You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
@fakiee, 162 Custom with 3D you say? I have a very similar board - mines an '08. I've got to go up to the loft later today and will give it a measure.

Tip to first hole, tail to first hole and total length? Anything else that might help?

One note on length - as said above the stated lengths are more about helping people choose the correct size than actual length. You should however try to measure following the curve of the board - if you didn't do this doing so might push your 159 closer to 162.
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 Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
I seem to recall that centre stance is relative to where the sidecut is, long noses and short tails are common enough.

Tip the board up on edge on a hard flat surface. Mark where the board touches the surface (contact points). Notice how they're back on the board from the front? Measure the distance between the two contact points, half it should give you 'centred stance', hopefully you'll now see where the 20mm setback measurement comes from.
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 snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
Thanks for the info guys,

"@Sound Hound", cool! My board is an '08 as well, Its is a 162 wide.

The center stance is 53.3mm (21").
The default front binding to nose is 57cm,
The rear default binding to tail is 50cm.

As @Rogg said it looks like I'm measuring all wrong - I should be taking the measurements using the board contact points. Thanks for all the insight with everyone's replies!!

I'll double check the measurements but I'm sure they'll line up now. Thanks for the piece of mind guys Smile
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
No bindings on mine so I measured from the end to the first hole. Nose is definitely just under 50mm longer when measured this way.
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Snow Hound wrote:
No bindings on mine so I measured from the end to the first hole. Nose is definitely just under 50mm longer when measured this way.


Thanks! Yeah 50mm appears to be right for this board Very Happy

I realize now that the stance position is measured by the flat edge not the length of the nose and tail.

This guide here [url=]http://snowboardingprofiles.com/snowboard-setback-stance-whats-the-best-position-for-you[/url] shows the centered stance by measuring the distance from nose and tail to the bindings, which is what had me totally confused.


Last edited by So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much on Wed 9-01-19 11:10; edited 1 time in total
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
You measure the nose lenght from the contact point which will have a transition zone length

On a freeride design the steel edge in this area will have a longer straighter transition zone between the sidecut ending and the nose radius starting .

Jib park freestyle boards will traditionally run short transition zones and will be more nervous transitioning on steep hardpack or windblown boilerplate at speed unlike a freeride nose that will ease the nose into the sidecut at speed .

All onE has to do as said if the board is a all mountain 20mm setback on the sidecut ...is moVe the binders forward 20mm or so from the marked referance stance .
On a Burton 3D boLt pattern both the setback and referance stance will be marked (but can be worn off in places ).

The best thing to do depending on ones stance width is set the front binder forward 20mm then set the rear up according to your required stance width and see how that rides for you .
If you run a wide stance you may want that front binder more than 20mm forward of referance so you are centered on the sidecut which seems to be what you want to acheive .

Measuring tip to 3D boltholes acheives nothing from one board to another as binders are set according to the sidecut .
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
This guide is better for calculating the stance width and position on the board

http://www.mechanicsofsport.com/snowboarding/snowboard_setup.html
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Tirol 164 wrote:
You measure the nose lenght from the contact point which will have a transition zone length

On a freeride design the steel edge in this area will have a longer straighter transition zone between the sidecut ending and the nose radius starting .

Jib park freestyle boards will traditionally run short transition zones and will be more nervous transitioning on steep hardpack or windblown boilerplate at speed unlike a freeride nose that will ease the nose into the sidecut at speed .

All onE has to do as said if the board is a all mountain 20mm setback on the sidecut ...is moVe the binders forward 20mm or so from the marked referance stance .
On a Burton 3D boLt pattern both the setback and referance stance will be marked (but can be worn off in places ).

The best thing to do depending on ones stance width is set the front binder forward 20mm then set the rear up according to your required stance width and see how that rides for you .
If you run a wide stance you may want that front binder more than 20mm forward of referance so you are centered on the sidecut which seems to be what you want to acheive .

Measuring tip to 3D boltholes acheives nothing from one board to another as binders are set according to the sidecut .


Thanks Tirol 164, that's great info! Very Happy
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Tirol 164 wrote:

Measuring tip to 3D boltholes acheives nothing from one board to another as binders are set according to the sidecut .


You seem to have missed the fact that we both have the same board (length & year). My simple measurement was just an attempt to reassure Fakiee that there is nothing 'wrong' with his board. Other than that you're absolutely correct.
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