 Poster: A snowHead
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After a few botched 'pro' jobs over the years, I had a go at mounting my own bindings using a hand drill, templates and online guides. How hard could it be?
Plugging the old holes was pretty straightforward, as was measuring and drilling the new ones. I did have one mishap where the drill collar slipped and I went slightly too deep on one hole, however it didn't hit the base so I assume this is fine.
However, I came up against a bit of a difficulty with the bindings not sitting flush after mounting (Marker Barons). Reading around, it was suggested that the topsheet material had likely 'volcanoed' and this was lifting the binding up off the ski. I had countersunk the holes slightly to prevent this, but obviously not enough. I had already glued the screws in with blue evostik woodglue.
The part I am unsure of is what I did next - I unscrewed the bindings, shaved off the volcanoes, put another dot of glue into the holes and screwed them back in, making sure to find the old thread. They sit flush now and seem solid, but will this process of screwing and unscrewing have weakened them significantly, or is it ok as they just went back into the old threads? I'm a decent holiday skier who skis fairly hard, but I'll not be hitting any serious drops or jumps etc.
Any info/experiences would be handy! Thanks
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| element wrote: |
After a few botched 'pro' jobs over the years, I had a go at mounting my own bindings using a hand drill, templates and online guides. How hard could it be?
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Sounds like you botched it pretty well yourself there!
They will probably be fine from what you've stated, but how can anyone really tell?
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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There's no problem with that. That's not a botch job and I occasionally have to do the same thing as different ski constructions react differently. The key is not to power drive/over torque the screws so that if they need to be removed they can still be torqued-up correctly again.
One issue with that binding (and the other models in that family/range) is that the plastic tabs within the heel base plate holes (which hold the screws in place during transit) often bend down when putting the screws in to the ski meaning that the base plate won't sit flat on the top sheet - so it's a good idea to remove/drill out the tabs first. It'd be far better if Marker supplied those screws in a bag like they do for the toe screws. Plus they still often fall out of the base plate and then out of the gaps in the sides of the box 
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@uktrailmonster, rather botch it myself for free than pay for the pleasure!
@spyderjon, thanks very much for the info.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@spyderjon, I feel your pain on this one
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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| element wrote: |
@uktrailmonster, rather botch it myself for free than pay for the pleasure!
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Agree
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| element wrote: |
@uktrailmonster, rather botch it myself for free than pay for the pleasure!
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Absolutely! There are a couple of shops I trust to do it properly, but some are useless. I've had 2 shops (both well known on here) mess up mountings with completely the wrong sole lengths. I took a punt with Glisshop mounting on my new skis and they seem good.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Just to revisit this for anyone else in the same spot - I've done 6 days of fairly lively skiing this week and they aren't showing any signs of falling off, touch wood.
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FAQ
Would be interesting to see.
