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Servicing question - getting and keeping the heat in a snowboard

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
I've been starting out servicing our own kit, and after a bit of a faltering start using some eco wax which would set like concrete, I've e been able to *ahem* service the wife successfully.

Problem comes with servicing the snowboard and getting the wax to penetrate the base. As the board has about 3 times the real estate of a ski I reckon its getting too cold to take the wax properly. Other than doing it in a sauna (Bikram ski prep?) any suggestions on how I can keep the board at a workabke temp without getting it too hot or am I just fundamentally doing something wrong?
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Drip wax on board. Iron in until all board is "painted". Allow to cool. Scrape.

How are you measuring "penetration"? You just have to trust that when running the iron at the correct temp it is doing enough to open up the pores of the board. Most wax will end up being scraped off. That's just the nature of what you are dealing with.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Hair dryer to get the board as warm as possible, will be quicker than using the iron to get all the layers warm, or how about laying the board up against your central heating radiator to get things started?
I think a lot of folks would be surprised how hot you have to get skis for a good long lasting wax penetration in the base, same applies to snow board, the top sheet should be extremely hot to touch, the base structure will have opened up lovely, if the top sheet is cold then you are wasting time and wax.
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It depends on the ability of the base to absorb wax too.
A structured base will absorb wax much more readily then an extruded base. Check what you have maybe.
I crayon on wax all over the base and then apply a quick coat to the hot waxing iron before applying it to the base rather than dripping it on.
More the little and often approach. Saves me a lot of work in scraping.
I only wax though after the board has been sitting on a nice warm under-heated floor so it's already luke warm to start with.
Not really had a problem with the base going cold though. Once warmed it tends to stay warm for a while.
I only use waxing specific irons these days though as household irons get way too hot, don't hold their temp very well and have a nasty potential
to blister your base.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Markhandford wrote:
....the top sheet should be extremely hot to touch.....


Do NOT get the ski/board anywhere near that hot. If you do you're likely to blow the glue lines.

Warm but not hot is a better description - with the warm being felt on the topsheet.On a ski gauge the warm just down from the tip at the contact point as if you wait for the top sheet in the centre of the ski to get warm the thinner sections will be too hot.

A board is too large to the whole area warm at the same time so just divide the board in to quarters/fifths etc.

On a board I'd also recommend removing the bindings as most board binding screws have nylon locking inserts which are air tight. The air below the screw then expands as it warms and as it can't escape it can easily bulget the base. I've seen this on numerous occasions.
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@Dave of the Marmottes, +1
After dripping I generally iron it in 1/3rds.

I use one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Skiing/Vola-212017-Waxing-Iron/B009G0AT8S/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1544099173&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=vola+wax+iron&tag=amz07b-21

This seems to do the job just fine.
I used to use a household iron, but I burnt the base of a board once.

I generally have 5 boards to do, so by the time I have finished waxing the 5th one, and opened another beer, the first one is ready to scrape.

3 of the boards use the Channel system, so I do not take the bindings off these, as the captive nuts can expand and contract freely within the channel.
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