Poster: A snowHead
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Being a relative newbie to Snowboarding i was thinking about getting my board waxed before i go away this year? Is It worthwhile getting done? and is it best to get it done by a shop or is it easy enough to do myself? If so what do i need?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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icecubez, had this conversation regarding skis a couple of weeks ago. The outcome was that as they were new skis it was best to get them waxed to add protection.
Got it done locally here in Leicester and it proved excellent advice as they were great when it came to it.
hope this helps
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Hi icecubez,
I'd do it yourself. You need a stick of snowboard wax (from any board shop) and an iron without steam holes (m and s is doing a light travel one for £6) and a scraper.
Scrape and wipe your board clean. STick the wax on the iron and let it drip on the board then smooth it over the board with the iron. Scrap off any excess and you're done!
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It's nice to get someone else to do it but you'll pay a lot in London and if you do it in resort sometimes they don't have facilities/time to do a proper hot wax...
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I'm still waiting for a kit to arrive from the states that i bought off ebay and then i'll do it myself. Not supposed to be too difficult.
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Make sure you dewax it first before applying the new wax. Very important.
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jonpaul wrote: |
Make sure you dewax it first before applying the new wax. Very important. |
Is there a tool to do this?
I used a wallpaper scraper last night when repairing my board which may have not quite been the ideal solution. For a 1st attempt at using a ptex candle the results look pretty good.
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Just a spray bottle of citrus cleaner works fine. Spray and wipe off with a wet clloth.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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What type of citrus spray? e.g. is mr muscle lemon or flash lemon any good?
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i use a special de-waxer (any ski shop will sell it) which happens to be citrus based. spray it on and rub vigorously with a cloth. it gets all of the old wax out of the pores.
I have heard of another method of de-waxing - where you put new wax on top of old and then scrape it off while still warm. Never tried this myself.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Tony Lane, Just tried 'Barry's' clit-bung stuff on an old test board, seems to strip old wax out fine, but I'll re-do with the proper stuff and see if it brings more out more crud. Then I'll wax both ends and see what the result is.
I will admit to using 'White Gas' (Coleman's stove fuel) for a final wipe before final treatment.
I'm not a plastics engineer, but one who is told me that the 'structure' (all the tiny little linear scratches on the base) is more important than the wax ... something to do with molecular dynamics at the shear interface. Wax just protects the surface and changes the temperature when everything works properly and is not that important with today's hard base plastics.
There will come a time in the near future when we won't need to wax at all.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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rob and sharon wrote: |
icecubez, had this conversation regarding skis a couple of weeks ago. The outcome was that as they were new skis it was best to get them waxed to add protection... |
Not quite sure what you mean by protection? The factory wax should be fine, waxing it again wouldn't do any harm but personally I don't think it would need it until the original wax had worn off.
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You know it makes sense.
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jonpaul wrote: |
Make sure you dewax it first before applying the new wax. Very important. |
Important, I wouldn't say so. Possibly dewax- waste of time.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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If you want to save time and mess, don't bother with the scrape (except for getting the wax off the edges). I did that last time and the board was gliding well by the end of the first run. Not sure how environmentally friendly that is though.
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Poster: A snowHead
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Cheers guys, the help was much appreciated.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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rich wrote: |
jonpaul wrote: |
Make sure you dewax it first before applying the new wax. Very important. |
Important, I wouldn't say so. Possibly dewax- waste of time. |
Hmmmm, you need to get the old wax out of the pores in the base.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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prog99, regarding the citrus spray, I use a dedicated, citrus-based "ski/snowboard base cleaner" (Demon base cleaner), but I'm sceptical that it's much different than a normal household citrus cleaner. Maybe someone can clarify on this?
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had a go at waxing last week while in Laxx, piece of pish, board slid so much better than i remember it after any shop wax
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I think that dedicated dewaxing agents contain a solvent that break down the polymers within the wax. As such it breaks down, and you can remove it from the base. I've been waxing for years now and would always dewax. I always get excellent results
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Just to add to jonpaul's comment (which I completely agree with), dewaxing with a decent cleaner is essential if you're doing any p-texing whilst you're repairing the board/skis. If there's any wax in the gouge when you drip in the p-tex, the bond is far worse than if it were clean!
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