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First time waxing help

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
This wax my first time waxing my snowboard, I bought it second hand and it looked like it had not been used for a while, the base was very dry. I bought SpyderJon’s basic tuning kit and also bought 2 structure pads (extra fine & ultra fine) and managed to pick up a Vola 1000W iron locally, I also bought the SVST tuning DVD. I have also watched several youtube videos, including one from ski-snowboard-tuning as they used structure pads

http://youtube.com/v/954yvHtjx5E

http://youtube.com/v/Oih-sVu9BrY

I started off with my brass brush and several dry scrapes, I think I went tip to tail with both but may have just swirled the brush round not too sure now, and loads of dirt came out.
I then used my extra fine structure pad and then the ultra fine pad, again I can’t remember exactly if I did them all tip to tail or in a round motion. I think with the brush and the pads I always finished with tip to tail but may have done some circular movements in the middle

I then did 2 hot scrapes until the wax was clean

I did a normal wax, and I read about a “deep soak”, where you wax it then let it cool then heat it up again and add extra wax if needed, it said you can do it 1-3 times more I just did it once more, this deep soak was only mentioned on one website I could find so I was a bit sceptical, but as my board had clearly been neglected for a while I didn’t think it would do any harm. I then left it overnight

Then today I scraped and scraped and scraped for what seemed like days but eventually very little wax was coming off so I got my structure pad out and this time I definitely only went tip to tail. There is a bit of wax showing on the pad, is this normal?

My main questions are,
Have I used my structure pads correctly?
If I did do circular motion with the brass brush and pads before doing the hot scrape do I need to do that all again but this time only tip to tail then re wax?
After waxing can I use my brass brush again after the structure pads? Some websites/videos say yes and others say no, it should be a horsehair brush after waxing, the brass brush is only for cleaning before waxing?

Thanks
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
I bought a soecial nylon brush for finishing, dont use the brass brush after waxing
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
I wax, leave, scrape, brass brush, nylon brush. Once a week until I go cos I actually enjoy it!! As I crayon it on I use very little wax so doesn't mean I keep ordering the stuff. I don't have any structure pads though.
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That Dakine low watt thin based iron needs a heat gun first so it can move at a snails pace trying to melt soft wax ?
Its got to be junk ?
I somehow doubt it would work in a -15 resort basement with hard waxes on bigger equipment .
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
fredbob, there's a full written guide & pics on my website, but to summarise the waxing process:

Use the brass brush before waxing, tip to tail only, to clean out the base structure.
Going tip to tail, crayon on a smere of wax to completely cover the base.
Drip on wax.
Iron in the wax checking for warmth only (not hot) on the top sheet. Bindings must be removed otherwise you can blow the base over the screws. A board is so big that if you try and get it all warm at the same time then an area could easliy over heat so until you've had some practice I'd recommend dividing the board in to quarters/fifths and do a section at a time.
Let fully cool.
Scrape off the wax.
Brass brush again, tip to tail only, again to the clear out the structure grooves. Brush until nothing comes out of the base which is usually about 5 passes.
The use of further brushes (horsehair &/or nylon) of fibrepads* just gives additional polish. Use them tip to tail only. Back-up the fibrepad with a block of wood or your brass brush.

The brass brush is used after waxing as its bristles are stiff enough to clean (scour!) the hardened wax from the structure grooves. Put an orientation arrow on your brass brush so you always use it the same way round to stop the bristles being bent back'n'forth and breaking. Your brush will last for ages that way.

*Fibrepads are often mistakenly called structure pads. The structure is already in the base. The pads are just finer polishing pads and are cheaper than brushes. A brass brush is the only brush you need unless you're racing etc, which is way it's the brush that I supply in our Basic & Advanced Kits. Unfortunately brass brushes are expensive but (unlike many other retailers) I think it's important to supply the correct tools for the job rather than selling a cheaper kit containing inferior/incorrect items or missing important items completely.


Last edited by Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. on Sun 3-12-17 23:30; edited 1 time in total
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fredbob wrote:
I started off with my brass brush and several dry scrapes, I think I went tip to tail with both but may have just swirled the brush round not too sure now, and loads of dirt came out.
I then used my extra fine structure pad and then the ultra fine pad, again I can’t remember exactly if I did them all tip to tail or in a round motion. I think with the brush and the pads I always finished with tip to tail but may have done some circular movements in the middle

I then did 2 hot scrapes until the wax was clean

I did a normal wax, and I read about a “deep soak”, where you wax it then let it cool then heat it up again and add extra wax if needed, it said you can do it 1-3 times more I just did it once more, this deep soak was only mentioned on one website I could find so I was a bit sceptical, but as my board had clearly been neglected for a while I didn’t think it would do any harm. I then left it overnight

All overkill for me. There is a lot of debate over whether cleaners are a good idea or not. My reading was more likely not. Hot waxing will do no harm if you can be @rsed. I never have.

fredbob wrote:
Then today I scraped and scraped and scraped for what seemed like days but eventually very little wax was coming off so I got my structure pad out and this time I definitely only went tip to tail. There is a bit of wax showing on the pad, is this normal?

I have no idea what a "structure pad" and it seems like BS to me. I used to scrape and scrape but don't do it as much as I used. I have one brush, which I work with a fair bit. I get the pellets but don't sweat getting them all off. I generally work tip to tail but don't sweat it.

Honestly it's easy to turn the whole thing into a massive pin point operation. You have to remember you are not a world cup downhill racer. You are a punter.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Quote:

Honestly it's easy to turn the whole thing into a massive pin point operation. You have to remember you are not a world cup downhill racer. You are a punter.


+1

Don't over think it!!
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@spyderjon I was following your guide, I just confused myself with these pads

When using the brass brush after waxing how hard do I need to press down?
I was told the pads help you to get more speed and to be able to glide over the flat parts, always important on a snowboard, is this true or just another myth/marketing gimmick?

Thanks again for the advice


@Layne and @dashed yeah I know what you mean, I just didnt want to wreck my board on my first go at waxing, and was very dirty and dry so wanted to give it a good clean and soak this time, so it was reborn again Very Happy
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fredbob wrote:

I was told the pads help you to get more speed and to be able to glide over the flat parts, always important on a snowboard, is this true or just another myth/marketing gimmick?


Waxing helps you achieve that in general. If the pads mean you can achieve a better wax job, then sure, you'll get more speed and hold your speed better on the flats.

But the simple act of rubbing a scotchbrite pad on your snowboard won't make you go faster.
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Well whatever I did it worked well, i went pretty fast and also glided over the flat bits better than most boarders and skiers, so i was happy Very Happy

Thanks everyone
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