Zermatt (and Cervinia) 2017/18

A snowHead

Sorry if I haven't posted that link properly, but you'll get the idea from these snippets from the site:

"The Zermatt snowfall record is impressive. One of the great appeals of early season skiing (or skiing at any time) here is the reliable snow.Skiers often dismiss the start of the season saying the snow isn’t good enough and that during the festive period the slopes are too busy.

"Zermatt has over 350km of piste which means that it never feels crowded even during peak holiday times, plus it has great early season snow. In this article we look at historical snow depths to show how good skiing in December can be.

"The Average Snow Depth in Early-December is 159cm

"If you’re thinking about a December ski trip, but to spend Christmas at home then you can rely on Zermatt for early season snow.

"The snow depth in Zermatt at the beginning of the season (on the upper slopes) has averaged 159cm over that last 8 years."

A snowHead

https://www.matterhornchalets.com/2016/10/18/zermatt-snowfall-snow-record/

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@PaulC1984,

I did research Zermatt's climate and terrain. I am an experienced skier and a hobbiest meteorologist.

I had a short time to decide and a small window in early December to ski. I wanted to go to a beautiful part of the world that I had never been to before and I'm glad I made the decision I did.

I didn't moan about Zermatt. I just expressed what I saw and what I learned, possibility for the benefit of others. I knew Zermatt was not typically a prime off-piste destination. And I knew it doesn't usually shine early season. What I didn't fully appreciate before was how relatively dry Zermatt can be compared to ski areas to its west, north, east, and sometimes southeast. When you book early skiing in advance, it's a roll of the dice. I'm fully aware of that. You just hope to get lucky with a good storm cycle and maybe run into some powder. What surprised me was that nearly the whole of the Alps were impacted with a month long cycle of storm after storm and yet Zermatt was still dry as a bone with brown grass and rock half way up to the summits. My expectations for early season skiing are always low. I'm usually just happy to be on my skis in the mountains. The frustration comes when Austria, which is much closer and cheaper for me, is getting hammered with snow. Even much of the rest of Switzerland has been much snowier than Zermatt. Finding reliable information on historical climate data is hard enough. But even when I found what I was looking for, it didn't tell me just how much Zermatt can suffer while other nearby resorts are getting the goods. That was not easy to figure out in advance.

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The very high average altitude of its north facing runs mean that the snow does not normally melt once it has fallen.

A problem in terms of natural snowfall is that it is sheltered by the 23 4000m peaks that surround it although presumably that also means generally better visibility for skiing ?

The very rocky nature of virtually all its runs and its altitude mean that it needs quite a lot of snow to open up and the snow can be blown off. Presumably it scores well as an early season resort because of the size of its glacier.

I think I read somewhere that the Trifti bumps don't usually open before February.

However it is a superb place to go in April when everything is likely to be open except perhaps the very lowest runs.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

My tuppence worth...

To be fair, I think the early season record typically talked about mostly refers to the ability in a "normal" year to get a fair amount of piste kms open, due to the altitude, glacier and fairly comprehensive snowmaking. It's fair to say some of what's written in magazines etc is ill informed or exaggeration, however consensus definitely points to the fact that much of the off piste in zermatt needs a decent base to have built up, hence later in the season being a better bet for that sort of thing.

There's also the vagaries of the early season weather year on year.

If it's coming from the N/NW as it has mostly this year, austria and northern switzerland are the place to be. However, last year a sustained current from the south ensured zermatt, champoluc et al got pasted whereas this years lucky resorts were mostly relying on artificial strips of snow to stay open. Roll of the dice...

I've been to the area 7 times, 3 of those were wall to wall sunshine, 3 almost non-stop snowfall. One was a perfect mix of the two. March/April are the best I've found for the big off piste itineraries, some of which (Schwarztor, longer descents from above stockhorn etc) are some of the longest and best in the alps.

I hope you go back someday and give it a bash with better conditions!

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Snow now falling nicely in Zermatt and on the mountain. Forcast from pretty much all quarters is for a further 6days snowHead

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The first round of snow was largely a miss. Looks like a coating to perhaps a few cms. The Gornergratsee and Alp Hermetje weather stations are reporting 0cm new snow. This was more of the same, with the Zermatt valley largely blocked from the precipitation.

Fortunately there should be another round later today. Hopefully there is some sort of associated frontal boundary that penetrates further south and creates some lift right over the area. Otherwise there might only be light precipitation again with significant downsloping.

After all it is free

Good burst of snow overnight. Looks like 10-20 cms on the mountain. Not sure about in town, webcams look like at least several cms. It wasn't a dumping, but it is welcomed. The next one might have more Atlantic moisture and more southerly component to the upper level flow.

Very cold in Zermatt up on the high mountain today, approaching -30c.

Town still needs more snow. Looking a bit bare.

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Another snowy day. The town looks better with a fresh snow cover. Building the base little by little. It is kind of amazing though that Gornergratsee weather station is reporting 7cm on the day while stations 20km west are reporting 40 - 60cm with heavy snow continuing. I wonder if the Gornergratsee station is in a sheltered location or if the wind is scouring the snow away. There's a lot of moisture (and wind) surging in from the SW. I hope Zermatt/Cervinia can get into some of the really good stuff for a while.

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According to the main website, hardly anything on the mountain is open at the moment. Just two or three pistes, with another handful listed as "in preparation." High winds/poor visibility, perhaps? Doesn't seem to have been all that much snow overnight.

It's saying 126 km/h wind at Rothorn - the webcam shows some roof panels flapping quite a bit!

You know it makes sense.

Ah, that explains it! I am there on Friday.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

Maybe a good day for a slow cosy ride on the Gornergratbahn...

A snowHead

Radar and webcams showed a good pounding of snow. It all looks windblown at present but once the wind stops that won't be a problem - we don't ski on the roofs and the snow will all be there to be enjoyed. Can't believe I am not out there until 27 December this year after last year's poor start.

Anyway while our thoughts are still on the season start, here is a quick opportunity to turn minds to long sunny days and skiing deep snow on the itineraries and off piste in April. The lineup has been announced for Zermatt unplugged:

A snowHead

Hello snowheads
I'm stying at Cieloalto in Cervinia next week and I see the slopes there are not open yet. Anyone knows of any predictions about that? Should they open anytime soon? With all that snow this weekend why are so many slopes still closed? I'm pretty new to snowboarding and I still don't understand very much about this slope closure things lol

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was briefly in zmatt yesterday....lots of snow in the streets. was snowing at the time...fairly festive feel to the whole thing.
sorry i don't have piste intel we are skiing elsewhere this trip.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

PriF https://www.snoweye.com/?resort=it_breuilif,
hi welcome to snowheads. It has probably been due to high winds. see the attached link to webcams, and also go on the local tourist website. A lot of snow around, you should be fine as long as the winds are not too high.

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Hi - just another quick question.

We are heading to Cervinia on 22 Dec with 3 children (aged 8 and 12). We did the same in 2015 (they were 10 and 6). Last time, we went over to the Swiss side, I think (if I remember correctly) that we skied from Plateau Rosa carrying on to the Swiss rather than take the turn own Number 6 I think which keeps you on the Italian side, skied down to Trockener Stag, got the cable car up the very top (Matterhorn) and came down 85. The children were fine, coped with it well. The only time we got a bit stuck was trying to come up the drag lift (I’m looking at the Piste Map and it looks like X3?) on the way back to Plateau Rosa where we went down run 84 - as obviously we’re a family of 5 and the little one (then aged 6) kept falling off the drag lift.

Am thinking of trying to ski more of the Zermatt side this time (we just did a long morning last time – maybe do a couple of days this time), but worried about (a) whether we’d have enough time to go much further into Zermatt (with children) and get back across to the Italian side and (b) whether the red runs on the Zermatt side are comparable with the Cervinia side and we can avoid drag lifts!

Could anyone advise about timescales and if we have enough time, which route we should take / runs we should try.

Last question – if the link is open in the morning from Cervinia to Zermatt, what happens if they decide to close it off – do they make an announcement somehow? Or if its open in the morning, will it stay open (i.e. if its likely to close, they won’t open it in the morning!).

Thank you!

After all it is free

@Newbie72,

And here lies the problem with Zermatt - I love it to bits and is one of my favourite resots but compared to the 3Vs or the Espace Killy it feels disjointed.

I would definitely stick to the Trockener Steg (Furgg chair gives you access to some good terrain including the park for rollers and jumps) and Schwarzsee (away from it all feel / trees) sectors - plenty there to keep you occupied.

Please keep an eye on the weather in case they shut the KM cable car - the drags may still be open but I wouldn't take my 10Y and 7Y olds on them, if one of them falls, you're stuck.

Thank you for the reply - sorry if this is a stupid question but when you say keep an eye on the KM cable car, how do you do that (if you're part way down a run!)?? Are there signs at the other chairlift stations etc?

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Sorry ... what I meant is I would choose a sunny and relatively calm day to do this ... download the Skiguide Zermatt app that shows if there are any closure alerts and whether the links are open or not.

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Fab, thank you!

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@Newbie72 it is easiest to answer the last question from your orginal post first. The chances of them opening the lifts in the morning and then closing them later on are infinitesimally small. They sometimes ask you to go back early (not often) by posting signs on the electronic screens at the lift barriers. However, what can happen is that the wind gets up, the lift up to Klein Matterhorn closes (less likely next season when the new lift is open – but not much use to you at present) and you need to take the drag lifts back (X1 and X2, not X3). As you and @franga have said that is not nice for young children. It doesn’t happen that often but it definitely can – and it is a bit more likely early season when storms are stronger than late season.

I think the thing to do is get over early to give yourself plenty of time. If you want to extend further I would say with youngsters everything except the Rothorn mountain is accessible. Lots of people do do that coming over from Italy but it is a hike. I might disagree with @franga about doing Schwarzsee much. The skiing is great but the good stuff is very north facing and at that time of year it could be cold and dark – probably even more so than Trockener Steg down to Furgg that you have already done. Later on in the season when the sun is higher these areas really come into their own because the snow stays in great condition.

I think you should head over to Gornegrat. It has slopes that get a decent amount of sun. The blue and red runs down from Gornegrat (more accurately for you – Gifthittli) to Riffelberg are very Cervinia-like and your children should love them. If they are happy with those reds take them down the reds from Riffelberg to Furi through the trees, which are a bit more of a challenge. All the lift stations have signs telling you the last lift to get back to Cervinia from that station. The timing is generous so leave by then and you’ll be fine.

OK, you need to get to Gornegrat. There are two ways over to Switzerland from Italy. The Plateau Rosa route you have described and the Theodulpass. Plateua Rosa is easier. The entry in from Theodulpass starts with a really sharp, steep turn children might not like (it is easy to get back that way though). Ski down past Trockener Steg as you have done before and on to Furgg. Here you want to get to Furi – there are a number of ways to ski it but to be honest I would just get the lift with your children. So as you are skiing down to Furgg head left to the bubble lift that will have been coming down over your head from Trockener Steg. Make sure you go to the right side of the lift station (otherwise you just go back where you have come from) and get in the bubble lift. Furi is the third stop. Get off there and transfer to the Riffelberg Express (also a bubble lift). That takes you up to Riffelberg where you transfer to a chairlift up to Gifthittli (just below Gornegrat) and the fun begins. I know that sounds a lot but the lifts are all really modern and fast.

Coming back, you can get on the Riffelberg Express down to Furi (make sure you stay on until you are at the higher and bigger lift station there) and transfer back to the Mattehorn Express bubble lift that you got earlier in the day. That takes you back up to Trockener Steg from where you know how to get home.

That is extremely helpful. Thank you. Will print off and digest (and pray for a lovely sunny day in about 10 days time Very Happy

)

You know it makes sense.

@Newbie72,

@JohnMo is right - he knows the area inside out and much better than I. Gornegrat is great for kids (I was just a bit conscious about how long it would take particularly if you were to ski down to Furi BUT the gondola is a much more sensible option). Some lovely blues and reds on that side ...

I would also avoid the Red 52 down to Furi - it's in a lovely spot but in most places it's just a path with a couple of uphill bits too (not fun for little kids).

+1 for the comment re the Theodulpass link (I board and I hate the short run down to get to the lovely wide pistes down to Trockener Steg).

You'll have a blast.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

A snowHead

Live in CA, but have been to Zermatt a few times and always had a blast. I think Alta isn't wrong on his observations and my conclusions are to visit in March or early April. That said, I do think the terrain is great, the place is ridiculously beautiful, and there are some awesome off-piste routes, but they need time to fill in.

One trip in Feb we had no itinerary and were following snow/conditions. Champery/Portes du Soliel was terrible. Way too warm, slushy, not good. Aborted and went to Verbier which was definitely better, but generally crusty and had experienced some freeze/thaw. Enjoyed some ok off-piste off the backside of Mont Fort, but really the snow wasn't great. Heard Zermatt was doing well so went there. Found old, cold powder which was still soft. Very few people skiing off-piste so pow stayed for a while and it was super peaceful. During this week it held the best conditions we found. Some great super long, uncrowded off-piste routes. In my opinion its the most beautiful ski area I have ever visited.

That said, for me to return from the US I would do it in March as I think that is the sweet spot. Generally everything has a good base and the snow is still quite good because of the elevation / aspect.

I think its reputation for early season is purely based on the glacier and elevation. As AltaS noticed, it does need a bunch of snow to cover all the rocks and that takes a while so not a great early season place for anyone looking to get off-piste. That just normally doesn't happen. It is a bummer it doesn't get more snowfall as I do love the region. We have defaulted to the Arlberg as out go-to purely because the snow record is so much better. Their apres-ski isn't bad either snowHead

We did just hit Obergurgl and Solden over Thanksgiving and had fun. Still mostly on-piste, but plenty open for a good 4 days. Last day saw 15cm of new snow and I did tip toe around some stuff just off-piste, but it was still a bit low tide.

A snowHead

Things looking very good. Nice top up coming along tomorrow (Monday) night then it looks like a great week for anyone having a pre-Xmas trip. I am not out until the 27th and am chomping at the bit.

It is fantastic after the last couple of years to see so much open at this stage. It is actually easier to describe what is not open. The Kumme lift is not open but I suspect it will be for Xmas. The snow is always good there but it does have some avalanche risk. Also it is completely north facing so can be dark and very cold at this time of year – plus it has one of the small number of old style slow open chair lifts (brrr!). Black 8 down from Blauherd to Patrullarve is not open but I suspect it will be by Xmas. The runs from Hohtälli down to Gant are not open. You can ski down via Gifthittli – but the piste 44 is not very interesting whereas the direct run down via 28 is great. 69 and 70 under the Mattrhorn are not yet open. Not surprisingly none of the itineraries are open yet. I do wonder if there is some chance of 67 and 68 leading down to Furgg being open for Xmas week. Certainly I am sure they will be getting well used as off piste routes at present.

It is a similar story over in Cervinia and Valtournenche. The Pancheron lift is now open. That is the one that is furthest north west that takes you from Plan Tourette up to the face of the Matterhorn (aka Cervino on that side). The black run down from there is not yet open but the reds coming down there are pretty damn good – some nice off piste (aka side piste) round there as well.

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If possible, redirect xmas plans to northern Switzerland or better, Austria. The pattern has been epic for Austria and it just continues. Zermatt is not ready. Especially not when parts of the Alps are flirting with all-time snow depths for the date with lots more in the forecast. Zermatt needs a major pattern change.

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Zermatt is a perfectly fine and excellent place to spend Christmas, as long as folks understand what to expect. Most do and they enjoy their pistes and their company. The off-piste that makes Zermatt one of the great ski destinations in the world comes later. This lesson is eventually learned by one and all.

Your right about Austria tho....Kitzbuhel is indeed epic right this moment.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

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looking at the webcams, its been snowing consistently all morning in Zermatt village

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I love reading all this stuff. Cervinia and Zermatt are my favorite places to ski.

After all it is free

I am planning to hit Cervinia in early March. Does anybody have experience of the snow conditions at this point in the season. I usually go late January and early February.

Another day, another stupid question.

In pulling together all the docs for our trip (we fly on Friday) I have realised that I have (inadvertently) booked a car from the French side of Geneva Airport rather than the Swiss side (as we did previously). I’ve just done a bit of research about the difference (seems the French side is more difficult to find on the way back to drop off the car, don't have the vignette which we'll have to buy somewhere) but the main point is that the French side don’t appear to provide winter snow tyres as standard. I’ve just looked up the details and whilst its not obligatory to have them (car rental company has confirmed that), its advisable – but at a cost of 35 euros a day (which is more than the car hire cost us!).

2 years ago, there was no snow on the roads on the way or in Cervinia itself. We didn’t use the car at all whilst we were there, and won’t this time. Should I get winter tyres / snow chains?

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The road into Cervinia is currently packed snow, as it's snowed pretty much all day today. Not sure how far down the hill this goes as we only walked down as far as the supermarket wink

Help!!

Zermatt (and Cervinia) 2017/18

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