Poster: A snowHead
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Mrs DJ has new boots (well done Andy at Solutions4feet).
I need to adjust the bindings, which is pretty simple, as it is a rail system. However I am confused about forward pressure adjustment...
What is it actually for? I'm no engineer but I have spent a lot of time around engineering, so I'm not quite a dunce.
I think I read somewhere that there's no adjustment needed (and therefore provided) on a rail system. Is that true? Why?
I don't see any likely candidate for an adjuster screw, so if it is needed can anybody point me in the right direction?
Further information:
Skis are Kästle MX78. BSL is 306. She has her bindings set to din 5.5.
This is what they look like...
Thanks,
DJ
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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the screw you turned at the back to make the binding move along the rail is *likely the forward pressure indicator also, when the boot is in the binding the screw face *should be flush with the casing.
what is is for it to make sure enough pressure is being put on your boot to make the din setting effective, too little and your 8 din will be like a 4 and you will fall out, too much and your 8 din will be like a 12 and you might die
* would be best to double check with the actual binding makers manual, or put up a picture of the back of the heel piece
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Thanks, geeo,
very helpful, and what I was thinking for the purpose.
This is the rear view.
Adjustment is via a lever, rather than a screw; you lift the lever and move the binding along the rail. It runs along a toothed guide, so clicks into position at one of the size markers. The only screw I see I take to be the DIN adjuster, which I am not proposing to touch at this stage.
DJ
edited to correct pic
Last edited by Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see? on Mon 28-09-15 13:55; edited 1 time in total
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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If you don't know what you are doing - take them to a shop. They are rebadged Tyrolia bindings so most places will be able to adjust them.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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There are two possibles. There is likely to be one coarse adjustment for the toe and heels. They can move to certain fixed click points, there is sometimes a scale for boot sole length in mm. This gets the binding centred and approximately the right size. Do this first, checking the centre mark on the boots lines up with the ski.
After that there is probably a fine adjustment, a screw behind the heel piece is normal, which makes the fine adjustment of pressure. To set this the routine is;
1. Put the boot in, check the reference mark (this will be something like the screw head level with the casing, check the makers instructions)
2. Take the boot out and make an adjustment
3. Put the boot in and check. repeat if needed
Some bindings can be damaged if you try to screw the adjuster with the boot clicked in.
On some demo/rental bindings (old atomic from memory) there is no separate adjuster, there is still a pressure tell tale though, you just have to tweak the main click settings until it is in the right place.
I have always done my own BUT with a manual (and if I break my leg it is my own stupid fault). If you are not sure take it to a tech because you can break the bindings or have a binding which won't work as expected.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Having seen the picture, there is no screw at the back on these so don't try to follow my guide!
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@rjs,
this was my default approach. In fact the BSL is the same on these as on the previous pair, as on the rental pair before that, so I am not actually changing the binding at all.
Last time, I took them into a shop, the child technician snapped the boots into the bindings and said, more or less, 'Oh they fit, no need to adjust'. Now I know there is such a thing as a forward pressure adjustment, I know it's important, and I had an inkling of what it did. So I am concerned to inform myself in case he was wrong then, and he or another would be wrong again. I am nervous, is all.
DJ
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DJ, Ok. Put a boot into the binding and take a photo of the heel unit from the side. The important bit is whatever markings are visible in the slots on either side of the black bit that is fixed to the track.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Col the Yeti wrote: |
Having seen the picture, there is no screw at the back on these so don't try to follow my guide! |
Thanks anyway. I had to nip out, snap the shot, upload etc etc, so there was a bit of a delay!
The toe and heel piece move independently, and each has a set of markers for different BSL. The ranges are different front and back, so I wonder if that gives enough precision to make the adjuster unneccesary. In this case the front is 301-306, and the rear is 305-312. So only a 305 or 306 would fit this particular combination.
DJ
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@rjs,
thanks for that.
Pic below, doesn't show what you are expecting, I think. It's a bad shot, and I will try again with some better lighting to show it in its full glory. The other side is pretty much the same, just a slightly different head on the bolt.
DJ
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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DJ, You will need to take the picture from a higher angle so that the brake arm isn't in the way.
UK shops shouldn't be employing "children", anyone working on bindings will have done a training course on them. A quick check will cost you less than a pair of crutches, may even be free.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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@DJ, also take another look at the rear while the boot is in place, the adjustment lever may have moved into the plastic housing a few mm when fwd pressure is present. However it's best if you can find the official reference or a tech you have more confidence in.
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You know it makes sense.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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My Fischer Watea 88 skis came with the flat version iof that binding. When I changed boots the shop adjuster my bindings for me - the heel section could slide a couple of cm in increments of a few mm. All looked good but it soon turned out that I didn't have enough forward pressure. They were fine for skiing on but on consecutive days I had skis pop off within a few yards of leaving a gondola. It felt like I'd clicked into the bindings ok but there was a build-up of slush on one of my heels that stopped it really getting over the cam. Both falls were at slow speed traversing the slope but both times I managed to strain the same thumb, which was disproportionately painful. I took them into a shop in resort and the tech just move the heel forward one click on the adjuster. Never had a problem with pre release since.
These bindings and many similar ones (like on my Head Titans) don't have a forward pressure adjustment. If the boot clicks in ok and the indicator is within the range then it should be ok. From my experience I'd say try moving the heel piece forward one click from where you've got it. If the boot clicks in easily in the tighter setting then that's the one I'd use. If you can't get the boot in then go back to the setting you're using and that will be the right one.
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Poster: A snowHead
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Valkyrie wrote: |
......These bindings and many similar ones (like on my Head Titans) don't have a forward pressure adjustment.... |
Wrong, they do, it's just that it's combined with the heel piece length adjustment so can only be moved in set increments.
DJ, The pics you've posted above are correct. With the boot out the rear face of the heel housing is just to the left of the row of scribed lines. When the binding is set to the correct length & the boot is installed the lever with stay put & the heel housing slides over the top it so obscure a few of the lines. Anywhere within the lines is acceptable but the nearer the middle the better so if you have two length settings that fall within the lines pick the one that's nearer the middle. If both setting are within the lines but equally 'off centre' then choose the short length that will leave less lines showing. Do not completely obscure the lines as this will have the effect of raising your din settings.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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So that is where they hide the indicator on those bindings! They look quite like the Fischer (Tyrolia) version, but the indicator is an a different place. I am glad @spyderjon, solved the mystery (as always if it is techie!)
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Cool, looks spot on from your last pic a job well done, always better to learn this yourself i think as it's very simple stuff once you know what you are looking at, i'd much rather be able to adjust my own stuff and be sure it's ok than leave it up to a shop and the variable staff they employ.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Many thanks, people. Especially spiderjon. Sorry for the delay; I've been away.
I am better informed and much happier now. It's perfectly possible that the tech could see that the pressure was in range, but I still actually don't think he looked.
DJ
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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spyderjon wrote: |
Valkyrie wrote: |
......These bindings and many similar ones (like on my Head Titans) don't have a forward pressure adjustment.... |
Wrong, they do, it's just that it's combined with the heel piece length adjustment so can only be moved in set increments.
DJ, The pics you've posted above are correct. With the boot out the rear face of the heel housing is just to the left of the row of scribed lines. When the binding is set to the correct length & the boot is installed the lever with stay put & the heel housing slides over the top it so obscure a few of the lines. Anywhere within the lines is acceptable but the nearer the middle the better so if you have two length settings that fall within the lines pick the one that's nearer the middle. If both setting are within the lines but equally 'off centre' then choose the short length that will leave less lines showing. Do not completely obscure the lines as this will have the effect of raising your din settings. |
+1.
Forward pressure can only be checked with the relevant boot in the binding (lots of people don't realise this). Always remove the boot to make an adjustment and then re-check by clicking the boot in again to see if the change has had the desired effect.
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