 Poster: A snowHead
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Hi,
So ive started boardng on the dry slope near me after 8yrs skiing, Im getting along ok, can now link turns and am really going to hit it hard now the summer is coming to an end.
Im not overly looking for a board for the dry slope, but want one when I go away in Janurary. I dont want to buy one im immediatly ahead of, and due to being quite a competent skier, I presume im going to push myself quite hard run wise.
Id like an all mountain board really I guess, any reccomendations of a good one to go for, along with bindings (I dont know what to look for with bindings either).
Im 5"10, about 85kg, but probably gonna drop to about 78 as im quite fat for me atm.
Thanks
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Don't get a beginners board, you're not a beginner for long.
I'm not a boarder so can give any advice what to purchase
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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What size feet have you got? Much over a 10 and you should probably be looking at a wide board.
A good intermediate board will probably be better than an out-and-out beginner stick as @1969jma suggests. You're probably better off going for a traditional cambered board rather than a reverse cam or some exotic hybrid. Theres a pretty good buying guide over on the Absolute-Snow.co.uk store site. If you're anywhere near Hemel, they could be worth a visit as they've got decent discounted stock and good staff who'll be happy to talk to you about what you're looking for.
Also a good idea for you at the moment might be to go for a second hand board. Ebay, frankly, is a bit meh - people always want too much for average gear, but theres a pretty good Wanted/For Sale thread area over on SCUK.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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You tend to improve quickly when you start, and at the same time it's good to try several different types of board so you can work out what you like. Getting locked into the consumer side kind of works against that. Buy a really pretty board and then rent? (That's a joke not an insult.)
They don't really brand snowboards "beginner". I suppose they don't think that would help sales. If it says "all mountain" then that may well be a beginner board (because beginners probably don't know what they want and try to hedge their bets).
The most important thing, in my not particularly humble opinion, is to get a board which is right for you. Sounds obvious, but lots of people buy boards which they intend to "grow into". I think that's nuts: it's easiest to learn on the board which works best for you, today. Get the wrong board and you'll progress slower, if at all. That's why rentals work really well. I'm picky, but "right for you" means a board designed to do what you're doing at the right size. It's been so long since I skied that I'm not sure how important board size is for that, but it's absolutely critical for piste and powder on a snowboard. Just saying.
It's traditional to buy boots first as stinky rentals can be... stinky.
Shop staff can be a mixed bunch. I'd rather take advice from an instructor who saw me ride given the choice. Demoing boards has to be the way to go if you can. As people you ride with, look at their gear, try to work out what works for the type of riding you want to do. It's not great asking people about their board if you can't actually watch them ride - maybe they can't.
Dry slopes are slower than mountains, for everyone. So even though I used "retired" gear on the dry slope, it's not what I'd buy for there if that was what I was buying it for, if you see what I mean. Snow domes have the same feature - they're so small you'd not bother riding a slope like that at a resort. So if you ask "snowdome" people what they like, you may find answers which are for very short flexible boards.
Weight-wise, I would start with boards where you're in the middle of the recommended weight range.
I'm not sure where the 2016 season will be fashion wise, but the reverse camber thing kind of came and went with some embarrassingly bad boards along the way. Reverse Camber in powder isn't the same for a snowboard as it is for skis. Aside from the odd park board I think most boards are back with camber, even if they try to dress it up as something more exotic. Broadly all that stuff's bollocks: you just have to learn to ride, then they're all the same albeit with different feel/ performance.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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SCUK?
im a uk 10, but have size 9.5 Burton boots.
Why wouldnt i want something with upturned edges, ive noticed you see that a fair bit on the `all mountain` boards.
I have no problem going second hand, frankly, id prefer it.
Any binding reccomendations?
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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So a regular mid-range do a bit of anything board... Worlds yer mollusc for choice. 5'10" in your weight range, something around the 158-160 region though you can go up or down a bit.
Bindings - well there's a question. If you go for a Burton board then you might well be looking at their EST/Channel system which is a thing where you can slacken off a couple of screws and move your bindings about 'relatively quickly' although you probably never will. If you go for that then you're pretty much tied to the Burton binding range. Pretty much everyone else uses the 3 or 4 screw system so thats that.
Bindings also have a flex rating; normally listed from 1(softest) to 10(stiffest), so some are stiffer than others, Medium is traditionally from 3-6 in this range. while you're in this stage of riding, personally I'd go for something in that range or towards the lower end to go a little softer - it'll be a bit more forgiving.
You've got 2 basic types of binding, the ratchet strap kind or the Flow style. Ratchets are the usual offering - two straps over the ankle and one over the toes which you ratchet closed, Flows use an over the foot arrangement which you can ajust but you get in them by clamping the high-back into an upright position. Flows are quicker to get into and can save you some back ache/cold back bottom, but are generally accepted to be a bit Marmite... Normally a bit more expensive than a traditional ratchet binding too. Your choice but alot comes down to personal preference and if you 'buy into' the benefits of the Flow style binding. As for Ratchets, main difference between offerings there is whether the front strap is Over-the-foot or Over-the-toe. Cheaper end bindings tend to just go over the top of the foot and clamp you downwards, this can be uncomfortable and you can overtighten and basically squash your foot to your board. Done it, it sucks and horrible cramp will be your reward. An Over the toe strap goes over the toe (duh) and both pushed down and back at the same time. This kind of locks your boot in place without squashing your foot flat; end result more comfortable but more secure riding with less lift. Trust me on this - Go for the toe, and if you really can't find bindings with toe caps, you can retro fit them for a few quid.
Beyond that, at this level you're probably not worried about the weight of the bindings (though avoid anything crazy heavy) or triple weave bi-axial carbon reinforcements, damping or other marketing blox. Pretty much anything on the market will suffice and be adjustable enough to accommodate your riding style, so choose your pricepoint and go from there. If you're buying second hand or you buy a preowned board with bindings included, check them over well before you ride - take off the straps and check for potential weak points, stress fractures or splits BEFORE you ride them. Spares are easily available. Also check that all nuts/bolts/screws are securely done up and nothings been threaded and only held in by a quarter turn.
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| Sarny wrote: |
| ... Why wouldnt i want something with upturned edges, ive noticed you see that a fair bit on the `all mountain` boards. |
In powder upturned edges are not common, although having them may not be a hindrance (because you turn with the whole base of the board, so you don't for example generally sharpen the edges on a powder board). On piste you may find that you need edges for the same reason you do skiing: holding a carve at speed. Many snowboarders can't do that... these things may be connected. Ask someone else about what works in parks.
I'm not sure why you'd put them on an "all mountain" board, except that the term may be being used for "beginner board", and some learners may find that upturned edges reduce the chance of them catching an edge. In my opinion it takes only an hour or two to work out how to correctly weight the board, after which you won't worry about "catching an edge" ever again, so I can't see why you'd want to buy a board you'll have outgrown that quickly...
The same arguments were used for reverse camber a few years ago. You could buy one and report back, but the idea that you can buy a board to somehow short circuit the learning process is incorrect.
Crinkly edges seem to make little difference in practice, although they're harder to maintain. I'd rather have a sharp standard edge than a blunt edge which works better when blunt.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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First thing is you don't need a wide board with 9.5 boots, size wise you should go on weight but most people for dome and dry slope use size down I'm about 78kgs and ride a 155 indoors and 159-178 on the mountain. At your weight a 157ish mid flex all mountain board would do the job in most situations. Have a look at the Capita Ultrafear, Ride Machete GT Hybrid Camber and the Salomon Sabotage they're all mid flex snowboards. As for bindings Rome katana, union force or now select would do the trick.
As for the raised edges that's generally called tbt and it's tech used on bataleon snowboards and a couple of other brands some people love it others not so much. If you can get yourself to a dome on a demo night and try as many as you can.
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You are a little taller and heavier than me (although will be lighter if you drop the weight). That extra 7kg would make a difference of about 2cm in board length so I would recommend buying not long before you go in case you over or under achieve your target. At your CURRENT weight I would recommend 157-160.
It is worth noting that although 2cm makes a difference the difference is small. A slightly smaller board than your 'ideal' will give you more maneuverability, be easier to initiate turns be more forgiving and will be better for starting to do tricks. A bigger board is better for carrying speed, is more stable and better in powder. The point is there is no right answer, and even the wrong board is better than sitting at your desk working!
I am a big fan of camrocker boards - all the brands have different names and slightly different set ups for them but basically it means you have camber between the bindings for stability, pop and power, and rocker outside to help in powder and to make them more forgiving - which is great for a beginner and freestyle.
I would recommend against a 2nd hand board, only because you don't know how well it has been treated. Instead check out some of the cheaper brands for example Pathron Snowboards. I have been riding Pathron boards for the last few years and they are very good and including bindings (which are also pretty good) are half the price of most of the big brands. Check out these reviews of Pathron snowboards for more info.
I personally love the Pathron Sensei technically it is a freestyle board but I ride it all mountain and even found it is good in Powder, it is not dissimilar to my mates libtech attack banana for which he paid 3 times more without bindings. We swapped boards for a few runs and both felt instantly at home on each others and he was pretty gutted to have not gone with my recommendation![/img]
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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any more bindings reccomendations and board recs?
thanks for the help guys.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Your best bet for the bindings is to pop into your local shop (if you can) with your boots., the bindings need to fit the boots. I had Burton Missions which did not fit or grip my Salomon F22s for instance, but my Union Forces hold the boot much better. It's a suck it and see job.
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FAQ
