Ski Club 2.0 Home
Snow Reports
FAQFAQ

Mail for help.Help!!

Log in to snowHeads to make it MUCH better! Registration's totally free, of course, and makes snowHeads easier to use and to understand, gives better searching, filtering etc. as well as access to 'members only' forums, discounts and deals that U don't even know exist as a 'guest' user. (btw. 50,000+ snowHeads already know all this, making snowHeads the biggest, most active community of snow-heads in the UK, so you'll be in good company)..... When you register, you get our free weekly(-ish) snow report by email. It's rather good and not made up by tourist offices (or people that love the tourist office and want to marry it either)... We don't share your email address with anyone and we never send out any of those cheesy 'message from our partners' emails either. Anyway, snowHeads really is MUCH better when you're logged in - not least because you get to post your own messages complaining about things that annoy you like perhaps this banner which, incidentally, disappears when you log in :-)
Username:-
 Password:
Remember me:
👁 durr, I forgot...
Or: Register
(to be a proper snow-head, all official-like!)

Remounting bindings query

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
I have a pair of k2 hardside off piste skis with marker bindings fitted. I've changed ski boot size from 25.5 to 24.5 which has reduced the boot sole by 12mm, I can't alter the rear binding to fit the new boots safely and have been advised the skis need redrilled.

Unfortunately due to the small size difference they can't redrill the 6 holes to meet the centre line of the ski, so ill either be too far forward or too far back from the midpoint.

Pretty disappointed after only using the skis for 4 days. Does anyone have any recommendations, ie do I redrill and use the ski off centre, maybe just the front or back binding can be redrilled independently (rather than both as my shop will only do this)

Or am I better off taking the hit and selling the ski and replacing?

Any thoughts appreciated
Thanks
Paul
snow report
 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
You could move the heel forwards 12mm, as boot center 6mm forward of recommended probably won't be noticeable anyway.

You could get different binding where the holes don't overlap with the existing ones.

Or you could put a plate on.

Personally I would just leave the front where it is and move the heel forwards.
snow report
 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Flaine skier wrote:
...Personally I would just leave the front where it is and move the heel forwards.

+ 1

If your shop won't just remount the heel you need to find a decent shop! If you're anywhere near Nottingham I'll do it in ten minutes while you wait.
latest report
 You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
Thanks guys, this puts me in a better mood! I'm in Newcastle and will try another store.
Presume I'm better a little bit forward of the mid sole line rather than behind it (remounting the toe)?

The heel has about 10mm adjustment so guessing I might not need to move it a full 12mm forward (just enough clearance so the new holes are clear of the original ones?)

Dummy question but do the bindings screw straight into the wood or do they tap in a metal thread?
snow conditions
 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Paulboblet, IIRC the Hardside has a metal layer just under the topsheet so the top sheet should be drilled with a 4.1x9mm drill & then then first couple of mm only of the hole is tapped. Any topsheet eruption is then dressed off with a chisel & some PVA glue is squirted in the hole to lubricate the screw insertion & seal the hole from water ingress. The self-tapping binding screws are then installed to a torque of 4.5Nm, ensuring that the underside of the bindings is tight up on the top sheet of the ski. Personally I always install the screws 80% then remove them & dress off any further top sheet eruption (which happens on most skis) before re-gluing the holes & inserting the screws. If the ski doesn't have a metal topsheet then a 3.6x9mm drill is used & tapping isn't required. Simples!
latest report



Terms and conditions  Privacy Policy