 Poster: A snowHead
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Right then you lot...
I grabbed myself an ebay bargain in the summer....
190cm 2008 Atomic Big Daddies (used a handful of times...
145 - 125 - 129 with a nice tight turning radius of 41m.
(http://www.freeride.co.uk/gear/skis/2008/atomic/big-daddy.html)
Fitted with Diamir Pro Freride (PTC) bindings
€162.50 !!
Now I am shopping for skins and have a couple of questions that i'm hoping can be answered by the clever ones....
The skis are twin tipped. So skins need to have the 'tip styled clip' on both ends?
Does the advertised length of the skins match the ski length (only a bit confused as there is always a 'dead' space near the ski tip.... but i'm guessing it does!)
Width.
The skis are tip rockered.
It seems easier to find 130mm skins. These I can cut down to size but they will be narrow nearer the tip. If I check how far down the 130mm width sits on the ski length do you think I can get away with not having 'full' coverage to the tip?
And any decent links to places to purchase!
Ta!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Same question really, pair of Volkl Kuro's 164 - 132 - 139, looking to get some skin's for little climbs.
Found that sport conrad hve some black diamond 140mm in nylon or even mohair mix for a little extra, but didn't want to go trimming a load off if I can get away with 130mm.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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price difference between the pair is pretty heavy on conrad too
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On a ski > 100mm wide you have much more grip due to the increased surface area.
Its not like the old days of touring on 70mm skis where full skin coverage and trimmed to fit tip / tail / width was essential.
In both cases about I would just get a 120mm wide straight skin and use it untrimmed.
Actually the correct answer is that you don't need such a fat ski for touring - however that is another debate 
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Well unless you are mountain gods you will not be hiking too far with these skis and most likely (especially with the Kuros) you will be touring in powder, a little space at the tip is not an issue as long as the waist fits well.
matteevan90, Yours is easy, go wider! those volkls are pretty tough for touring, they will already be trying to wrench your feet flat while traversing, I wouldn't give them too much more chance to slip away, get the 140s and cut them! Once got tricked into touring on a pair of preachers with skins that were too narrow and it sucked so much!
flangesax, I'd get the 130s, obviously you are looking for a bit of a bargain, the 140s will cost more and, (as the ski is super straight) would save you only 5 mm on each side of the skin at the tips! that's not that much, especially as they're rockered so there wont be soooo much pressure on this section. If you are dead set on steep tours you could invest but I wouldn't bother.
If you are trying to save money I have had 2 pairs or Kohla mix skins from Sport Conrad, no issues at all they're swap out the tail clips and if they have the ski in stock they might even cut it for you!
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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| Quote: |
In both cases about I would just get a 120mm wide straight skin and use it untrimmed.
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Sorry I wouldn't agree with that at all, they would have no grip at all traversing on semi-hardpack.....
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Have a look at these: http://www.jonsskituning.co.uk/component/page,shop.product_details/flypage,shop.flypage/product_id,267/category_id,58/manufacturer_id,0/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,1/
which are also here under Freeride : http://www.colltex.ch/#/_100_Fellwahl/
Advantages: Easier to go up ( less resistance, only from the material on the edges, not the full fat base) , Can be shared between different shapes (resale/ on sale)
Disadvantages: More Faff to get on and off ( basically you are folding twice the number of skins you would normally ) especially need to have good drills in wind.
Not sure these are big enough at the tip for Kuros but SpyderJon will advise I am sure.
You can "split" your own as well, though I haven't done it (or used these split skins either for that matter!)
Last edited by Then you can post your own questions or snow reports... on Tue 26-11-13 11:01; edited 1 time in total
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| flangesax wrote: |
| do you think I can get away with not having 'full' coverage to the tip? |
In my experience, for security, edge to edge skin coverage is mostly important on the underfoot area of the skis so that when you're climbing on firm snow, across a gradient, you're not sliding out sideways with every step. On cushy, soft stuff, you wouldn't experience lack of sideways grip anyway and with so much skin area, a few square cm missing from the tip edges will make no discernible difference to straight on climbing.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| dulcamara wrote: |
| Quote: |
In both cases about I would just get a 120mm wide straight skin and use it untrimmed.
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Sorry I wouldn't agree with that at all, they would have no grip at all traversing on semi-hardpack..... |
130mm ski on semi-hardpack == doin it wrong.
190cm*120mm skins == straight up the fall line, what with all that ski area
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Hey dude, nice skis!
I find the Black Diamond tip/tail clips work just fine with big blunt rockered twin tips. I'm using the nylon ascentionists btw, cut for a 110mm ski but shared across 110, 116 and 118mm skis. I haven't had a problem with grip so far, but you can also cut a slit in the centre of the skin, allowing you to put the skin nearer the edge (no skin underfoot matters less). With the increased surface area of bigger skis you seem to get more grip anyway. With that in mind, if I was buying new skins, I'd go for a mohair mix with better glide to reduce the increased skin drag, which if anything I find makes more difference than the increased weight. The Black Diamond tip connectors have quite a big of adjustment - the same (190, I think) length works just fine over 188, 190 and 193cm skis, and my other pair is fine between 176 and 185cm skis. No skin on the tip, which is off the snow, doesn't seem to matter at all.
Last edited by Ski the Net with snowHeads  on Tue 26-11-13 11:18; edited 1 time in total
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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As other have said it's what's under the foot and slightly behind that has the most significant effect on grip (think about where gravity is going) so having the full width of the ski covered is pretty important particularly when side hilling. You can use the normal tail clip connecter at the back but the ones designed for twin-tips are a bit more secure particularly when the glue is getting old.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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You know it makes sense.
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| Quote: |
What are the benefits/draw backs of a 100% mohair jobby or a mix?
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From what I understand, less grip but better glide, maybe a bit less durable.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Good Greif  just get a decent pair of snowshoes . . . got to be easier than schlepping those monsters up a mountain.
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Poster: A snowHead
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Masque, no thanks!.... i'll be quite happy without having to carry snowshoes too!
It does seem that they are wider than half a split-board; which I quite like!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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flangesax, Actually I was just thinking about big skis and snowshoes and the stance width needed to move either of them. The first time I took my snowshoes out my hips hurt like hell and the movement pattern was different to that of a normal stride. I wonder if anyone makes a folding ski crampon a bit like a 'featherboard' on woodworking machinery?
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I would not recommend the coltex split skin as the small glue contact area means they fall off all the time when it gets cold and controlling them in the wind while trying to put them on/take them off.
The skin must be near the edge (2-3 mm) of the ski to allow you to traverse.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Ross Hewitt, do you need to trim them with the edge visible? I purchases some g3 's for some s7 ...140mm size and they came with a trim blade that runs along the ski and trims it flush,is this correct?.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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meandrew, yes, the G3 tool is awesome so keep a hang of it. If you used it right then you'll see the base of the edge and a tiny bit of base.
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meh, thanks I have just re done them and they are now perfect thanks .
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flangesax, I just bought some g3 skins from Pyrenees telemark arrived in 2 days ....fitted them to my skis after a readjustment aftermeh, advice with the tool and hey presto it takes 5/10 minutes
,very happy
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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