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Which Austrian resort?

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
I have had a good root around the forum, using the search function, but I need your help.

I am looking for an Austrian resort, close to Innsbruck (as I already have flights sorted) which meets my requirements. These requirements are:

- Girlfriend likes blues and easy reds. Technically she is a very good skier, as she has had over 20 hours of private tuition. BUT she can, on occasion, be prone to getting the fear on steeper slopes. She loves Les Saisies, but wants to move onto something a little more mountainous.

- It would be nice if it had a small town vibe; relaxed, not full of British tour operators and louts out on the apres.

- Good infrastructure would be great. I want her to see that not all lifts are as slow as the Bisanne lift

- Any easy transfer from Innsbruck would be good. Train would be good, but not essential.

- My requirements don't really need to be catered for. I am happy if she's happy.

I have had a very serious look at Serfaus-Fiss, but I am starting to rule it out, as there seems to be a huge number of red pistes, despite the area being marketed as an excellent family resort. I have looked at the likes of; Hochgurgl, Saalbach, Ski Amade etc.

Oh, we are going in the second week in January, to try and avoid most of the school holidays.

Love to hear your thoughts.

Cheers

Andy Very Happy
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Just stumbled (using the search function) on this thread... seems to cover a lot of info!

http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?p=2364753&highlight=innsbruck#2364753
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That pesky search function. Very Happy

Good thread link. Fair bit of talk about St. Anton and the Dolomites though, neither of which are options for us. Thanks.
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Kaltenbach / Hochzillertal then. Quick, easy transfer by train (it's the first one in the Ziller valley, and the only one in the valley with the station close to the lifts). Pretty good, new infrastructure and even more new infrastructure going in. Probably more 8-seat heated chairs there per skier than most resorts. And few brits, cos all the brit TO go to Mayrhofen.

For many/most resorts, I'd ignore the fact that most runs are indicated red. Lots of reds are a slightly steeper than normal blue. In the case of Kaltenbach, none are even narrow either.
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Feast, I wouldn't rule out Serfaus-Fiss on the basis that there are a lot of reds. There are but there's a huge variety within that mix, many of which are erring to blue some which are more dark red. Went with a family group including my sister who had had a few years break from skiing and was a bit nervous but she found it fine. A lot of the pistes are pretty wide meaning it's pretty easy to control your speed even if slightly steeper. HAve a lesson and you'll get a feel for the pistes with an instructor to guide you around.

It's an excellent resort and ski area so seriously wouldn't let the number of reds put you off.
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Great input on Serfaus, this is exactly what I wanted to hear. It should meet both our needs, as I can do a few itenaries, if the mrs has a rest one afternoon. The range of skiing in Serfaus-Fiss looks great. Rowlski - what's the town of Serfaus like?

andy - I'll take a look at Kaltenbach. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Westendorf?
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Feast, A second recommendation for Kaltenbach/Hochzillertal. See the post I made on this thread: http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?p=2365368&highlight=kaltenbach#2365368
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Feast, I'd also recommend the Serfaus-Fiss ski area. Agree with the comments made by Rowlski. Some fantastic intermediate level terrain but there might be a few reds to avoid though, although they are generally easy to spot. I really don't know why it's not more popular with the Brits? I think it's a great ski area and has a lot going for it.
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Serfaus is one of those Austrian resorts which are far more popular with mainland Europeans (in this case Germans and Dutch). The only problem I could see with the choice is making your own way there - it would probably be by organising an airport/resort taxi or using public transport (train to Landeck and public bus or taxi), since there are unlikely to be any transfer buses.
http://www.serfaus-fiss-ladis.at/de/service/anreise

The village is nice - it actually has an underground railway system where day trippers leave their cars on the outskirts of the resort and use the underground to get to the lifts at the other end of the village. If you are making your own way and want a more scenic village, I wouldn't rule out Fiss or Ladis either. With fresh snow you could manage to grab some excellent powder there as well.

Kaltenbach is OK, plus you get the access to the other Ziller valley resorts. Might be worth taking a look at Lech as well - the new link to Warth opens up some more mainly intermediate terrain there this winter. Kühtai might have too many reds and be too high and limited for you. Westendorf isn't a bad shout either with the train station although your gf might not be able to take full advantage of the SkiWelt ski connections. Can be a bit shouty Brit/Irish/Dutch nightlife however.

Given what you say, I would take my pick from Serfaus, Obergurgl and Kaltenbach. (Note that almost all of that skiing is above the treeline.)
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Have a look Saalbach. Lovely range of slopes, and the few steep runs are easily avoided. I don't remember any scary reds (unlike somewhere like Val d'Isere), and the town is very attractive with a nice atmosphere. Hinterglemm is quieter than Saalbach.
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clarky999, Westendorf look interesting. Any background or experiences? It looks lovely.

Alastair Pink, Kaltenbach looks like it has an excellent range of skiing. How is that route 1 back down into the village? Is it a 'red' red? What's the village like?

alpinetoffee, Liking these reassuring posts about Serfaus. I was going to ask about public transport transfers, but I think you've answered by questions. Daft question, how do you get from the bus transfer to your accommodation with two ski bags and a load of other bags, if the town is pedestrianised?

I've looked a Lech and I have been there before. I think the nature of the skiing would be perfect for the mrs. The price puts me off a little though...

HoneyBunny, Again, Saalbach has been serious considered in previous years. I think Hinterglemn would be more suitable in terms of the town though. Range of skiing looks great though!

Thanks for all the comments. Keep them coming.
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Quote:

Kaltenbach looks like it has an excellent range of skiing. How is that route 1 back down into the village? Is it a 'red' red? What's the village like?

Only skied it once at the end of the day, and it was mostly man made heavy snow cannon snow on the bottom half.

It's a real red. Possibly even black in places.

If I ski it again (very possible, since I will be there in January), I'd do a warmup run and go straight back down that run to the bottom to do it first thing. Then go back up and ski the entire resort. The gondolas are pretty quick, and I've never had to queue for more than 2 gondolas' worth of people.

Alastair Pink has been there more than me though, so has probably experienced it in more conditions, and will also know more about the village. I just turn up and park up in the (free) multistorey for the day.
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Quote:

Daft question, how do you get from the bus transfer to your accommodation with two ski bags and a load of other bags, if the town is pedestrianised?

The village isn't entirely pedestrianised. People who are staying in accommodation in Serfaus can park there and there are taxis and hotel minibus services. (I presume local bus services stop in the town as well - I've only ever been by car though.) It's just that the four-stop underground helps do away with a lot of the traffic.
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Feast wrote:
clarky999, Westendorf look interesting. Any background or experiences? It looks lovely.


Yeah, it's great! Probably spent 7 or 8 weeks there in total. It's linked up with the rest of the Skiwelt in one direction, and Kitzbuehel in the other (though Kitz requires a 5 minute bus ride and lift pass upgrade) so huge ski area, but IMO it has the best skiing in the area anyway. The long (blue) 111 is probably the best piste I've ever skied. Good lift system, usually quiet slopes. Some fun (though mainly mellow) offpiste, which seems to be rarely skied. Small pretty village, few Brits (though it's been a couple of years), couple of lively bars, small friendly mountain restaurants with great food. Easy, short train ride from Innsbruck, though you'll need to get a taxi/hotel shuttle bus from the train station to your accomm (5 mins or so).
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 Poster: A snowHead
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clarky999, See my fave would be the 1000m vertical of number 11 Choralpe down to Brixen. It has magnificent snowmaking too. The Choralpe lift has turned Brixen into a really decent place to stay, giving even more options.
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Feast, As andy, said, the Kaltenbach valley run is quite dark red. The run is interesting and good to ski when it's quiet but at the end of the day everyone tries to ski down it, including people who really don't have the skills for it. When my car is in Kaltenbach I usually come down in the gondola. The valley run that goes down to Aschau (I think it is still marked as a Ski Route on the map) is great, though maybe not suitable for your girlfriend as it is steep in places. There's a free bus that goes from the bottom of the run back to the gondola station every 15 minutes.

Kaltenbach village is pretty low-key. There are a couple of apres ski bars at the bottom of the gondola which quieten down around 7.

My first thought when I saw your post was to recommend Kaltenbach. The middle of January is usually quiet in the ski area. There is plenty of terrain that would suit your girlfriend, some lovely mountain restaurants and heated chairlifts (I think there are 3 now!). Getting there from Innsbruck is convenient (bus from airport to Hauptbahnhof, train to Jenbach, Zillertalbahn train to Kaltenbach) it takes about 1,5 hrs and costs about €10.
Also, from Kaltenbach it is easy to get to the rest of Zillertal if you wanted to have a look at a different area.

If you have any questions about the area, give me a shout. I live not far away from Kaltenbach and teach skiing in Hochfügen - the other side of the Hochzillertal ski area.
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Obergurgl has a great range of skiing that would suit your girlfriend. Lots of blues and bluish reds. Fairly quiet village with après in a couple of bars, but the hotels are all very good and close to the lifts. The Jenewien is right next to the main gondola and chair and does great food.
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Feast, Further to what andy and SaraJ have said about the Kaltenbach Valley Run (called the Stephan Eberharter GoldPiste since he was a local boy made good!) there is a video on YouTube of someone doing the whole run from the top of the gondola station down to the bottom here:


http://youtube.com/v/pgTCw30gCRM

Incidentally you'll notice at the end of the video that you can see there are two gondola lifts that go up the mountain and operate in parallel (the original gondola and a newer one) - having such a big uplift capacity you'll find that there is very little queuing time in the mornings to get up the mountain.
You'll see that there are snow cannon on this run all the way, and as andy says what with man made snow in some places and on the steeper sections it can be quite a hard red, almost black in places. andy's advice about doing it earlier in the day when it's less crowded is also good - I often take the gondola down at the end of the day to avoid the crowds.

Incidentally if you go to this site and click on the 3D tag in the bottom right hand corner of the Hochzillertal piste map it then brings up a facility which lets you click on any particular lift or run and then see a video of the lift or run - how cool is that! Cool.

Right at the bottom of the Stephan Eberharter piste there are several apres-ski bars - the biggest and best well known one is the Postalm. If you want a smaller quieter place for an apres ski drink then I can recommend the Wedelstube which is on the first floor of the SkiSchule Hochzillertal skischool building.

Kaltenbach itself is quite small, the name of the railway station is Kaltenbach-Stumm, and the somewhat larger town of Stumm is just the other side of the main Zillertal valley road. In addition there is accommodation in the neighbouring villages such as Ried (I mentioned on the other thread that I've stayed in the Hotel Alpina in Ried). You can do accommodation searches for the entire Zillertal here: http://www.zillertal.at/en/winter/search-book/search-accomodation/ - if you are specifically interested in Kaltenbach skiing then under "region,town,district" select " Erste Ferienregion im Zillertal".

Hope this helps Madeye-Smiley
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Bode Swiller wrote:
clarky999, See my fave would be the 1000m vertical of number 11 Choralpe down to Brixen. It has magnificent snowmaking too. The Choralpe lift has turned Brixen into a really decent place to stay, giving even more options.


Is that the one from the Westendorf side? Used to be a really nice, mellow offpiste run; usually completely untracked, until they built the piste. Probably still ways to ski offpiste down there though.

The thing I like about the 111 is that it's usually so empty, skied it several times without seeing another person (other than my group). That's probably changed a bit now they've built the gondola back though, also shorter now you don't ski down to the road to get the bus.
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Hi All

Watching this thread with interest as hoping to do a day trip or two out from Mayrhofen (after 13 trips I think might be time!). Considering Kaltenback as heard good things. Andy, Sarah and Alistair, would you be able to compare the Valley Run with the red run down from the Ahorn? harder, longer etc? Are there plenty of bars on the way down? Very Happy

Cheers
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I've never skied the Ahorn run back down. Only skied about 2 days on Ahorn, and both times I could see the end of the skiable bit didn't quite reach as far as it needed to.


Ski Welt is on my radar (as well as Zillertal, not instead of snowHead). Any recommendations for the best village with lots of parking, arriving from the Inntal autobahn?
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Thanks Andy, can see how that could be problematic!
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Quote:

Ski Welt is on my radar (as well as Zillertal, not instead of). Any recommendations for the best village with lots of parking, arriving from the Inntal autobahn?

Salvista gondola at Itter is the closest to the motorway or carry on to the Söll lifts with pretty big parking area around the bottom and over the other side of the small road up to the lift station. (Hopfgarten on the other side is probably equidistant to Söll for the motorway.)

Added: if you are coming from Germany and you don't mind a bit of x-country driving you can sneak up the back from Kufstein to near Söll/Scheffau.
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Feast wrote:
clarky999, Westendorf look interesting. Any background or experiences? It looks lovely.

Alastair Pink, Kaltenbach looks like it has an excellent range of skiing. How is that route 1 back down into the village? Is it a 'red' red? What's the village like?

alpinetoffee, Liking these reassuring posts about Serfaus. I was going to ask about public transport transfers, but I think you've answered by questions. Daft question, how do you get from the bus transfer to your accommodation with two ski bags and a load of other bags, if the town is pedestrianised?

I've looked a Lech and I have been there before. I think the nature of the skiing would be perfect for the mrs. The price puts me off a little though...

HoneyBunny, Again, Saalbach has been serious considered in previous years. I think Hinterglemn would be more suitable in terms of the town though. Range of skiing looks great though!

Thanks for all the comments. Keep them coming.


We're returning to Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis this Xmas. Brilliant resort and can't really add anything to what's already been said. Not sure about transfers but I'm 99% sure there is a ski bus which goes from the valley (Ried/Prutz) up to Serfaus so you wouldn't be tied to taxis.

The one thing it is not is a party resort. Plenty of places for a nice meal and a few drinks but Apres ski is limited.
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I love Mayrhofen, Well the Kaltenbach Valley run is definitely longer than the Ahorn red. From memory there are some parts of the Ahorn red which are almost a black in my opinion, so the level of difficulty is very similar I'd say, just that with the Kaltenbach one it goes on for longer. And of course it's worthwhile pointing out that where the Kaltenbach valley run starts from is just the level of the top of the gondolas, there are many lifts from that point that go up a lot higher (see pistemap link in my previous post).

If you're based in Mayrhofen, getting to Kaltenbach is very easy. The Zillertalbahn train service runs every 30mins from Mayrhofen and of course is free with your Zillertaler Superskipass (as are the skibusses). From Kaltenbach-Stumm station it's a couple of hundred yards walk (about 5 mins in ski boots) to the gondola basestation.
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I love Mayrhofen, we skied mud in Obertauern pre-season last year Smile The bit of piste exactly 1 metre wide that you had to schuss and not turn until the next snowcannon snowpatch was fun Cool
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Try Gotzens!
Great little village...most unlikely to bump into any other Brits. Not sure any tour operators go there now.
Little town/village on outskirts of Innsbruck.
10 Mins from city centre by bus. You will spend longer at baggage carousel than on transfer trip! Bus ride is something like 2 Euros if without ski kit.
Short walk to gondola, ski hire/lockers available there.
Travel to other resorts in area on local bus for free.
Mutters/Axamer Lizum is great. Olympic slopes or cruise the blues.
Ski Stubai Gletcher on same ski pass. Free transport can usually be arranged by hotels.
Innsbruck hosted winter Olympics a few years back, many facilities still exist.
Lower slope snow can be unreliable at either end of season, but mid Jan should be fab.
Was there two years ago at end of March and had an amazing time!
If you want any further info pm me.
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I love Mayrhofen,
Quote:

Well the Kaltenbach Valley run is definitely longer than the Ahorn red. From memory there are some parts of the Ahorn red which are almost a black in my opinion, so the level of difficulty is very similar I'd say, just that with the Kaltenbach one it goes on for longer.

Hmm... I wasn't sure about this that Alastair Pink, said, I would have said they were about the same length. So, I had a look at a map. The top station of the cablecar on the Ahorn is at 1955m, the top of the gondola at Kaltenbach is at 1740m, so the height difference at Ahorn is actually more... Still, it feels like the Kaltenbach run is going on forever when you're on it. It's mostly narrower than the Ahorn valley run. There's one bar on the last corner before the bottom and once you get to the bottom your can ski onto the side terrace of the PostAlm.
Hope that helps Smile
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SaraJ wrote:
I love Mayrhofen,
Quote:

Well the Kaltenbach Valley run is definitely longer than the Ahorn red. From memory there are some parts of the Ahorn red which are almost a black in my opinion, so the level of difficulty is very similar I'd say, just that with the Kaltenbach one it goes on for longer.

Hmm... I wasn't sure about this that Alastair Pink, said, I would have said they were about the same length. So, I had a look at a map. The top station of the cablecar on the Ahorn is at 1955m, the top of the gondola at Kaltenbach is at 1740m, so the height difference at Ahorn is actually more... Still, it feels like the Kaltenbach run is going on forever when you're on it. It's mostly narrower than the Ahorn valley run. There's one bar on the last corner before the bottom and once you get to the bottom your can ski onto the side terrace of the PostAlm.
Hope that helps Smile


Ah but:
1. The elevation of Kaltenbach is 560m so the Kaltenbach valley run has a difference in height of 1740-560 = 1180m. The Ziller valley rises in altltude as you go up the valley from Kaltenbach to Mayrhofen (nominal elevation 633m but I think as you go from the Mayrhofen Church up to the Ahorn end of town you climb up a fair bit so the elevation at the base station is probably about 650m which ties in with the Ahornbahn elevation difference of 1300m quoted here.
2. I was taking the Ahorn red run as starting at the bottom of the lowest chairlift on the Ahorn (I think that's where it becomes Red 5 on the Mayrhofen piste map). This starts some way below the top station of the Ahornbahn, so I think the Red 5 piste (Talabfahrt) itself will be have less difference in height than the Kaltenbach run (but not much in it I grant you). Madeye-Smiley
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Ive only been to kitz and kirchberg (in two different yrs) but kirchberg sounds like it could suit you?? Or, try Vordergrub in Kitz. The rooms were ok, en-suites tiny, location out of town, but the ambience and in house restaurant were unreal!! In kirch we stayed up the road from the nightskiing and it was awesome too!!

The skiing on that side would suit the OH perfectly

Easy transfer fem Inns
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Another +1 for Serfaus. Lots of good terrain, and certainly ticks your box for an efficient lift system too. Just because many runs look red on the map many are more blue like, and as someone else said pretty wide so you have space for control and they are not crowded.

Can't comment on transfer options as I've only driven - is a hire car an option for you? Simple transfer and from Serfaus, Lech that you mention above is also doable as a day trip if you have a car. Parking easy enough at both.
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Clarky / Bode, I'm looking at Westendorf for second week in Jan, just worried about it being low but you've had no problems in that regard? Can anyone recommend a convenient hotel anywhere around there, ski in if possible with a jacuzzi / sauna for post ski and good food if half board?

Also can you ski to the Brixen lifts that access the other part of the SkiWelt, on the piste map it looks like you have to get a bus to them?

Any help appreciated
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8611, Westendorf holds snow better than anywhere in that area. I've never had a prob. Add 300m to the elevation to get an idea of equivalent in France - that's because it's further into the continent and a bit further north.

So, to get to Brixen you ski the fabulous run down from Choralpe. Last season there was a part that had 12 metres of snow on it (that's depth not lengthways) and it seems like there's a snow cannon every few metres. At the bottom you have to grab a small rope tow to get you back to the lift but there's no bussing around.

Hotels - Jakobwirt, Messnerwirt, Glockenstuhl probably fit the bill but you'll have a short walk whatever.
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Feast, Close(ish) to Innsbruck with a decent amount of terrain and piste. Ischgl, Serfaus-Fiss-Landis, HochFugen, Mayrhofen. Personally Ischgl or Serfaus-Fiss-Landis (stay in Fiss), may be leaning slightly towards Ischgl.

You'll enjoy any of them really..
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Thanks Bode
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Bob, Why do you say stay in Fiss?
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8611, as Bode says. In the 7/8 weeks I've spent there, only once was the snow not great. There was plenty of it, just a bit icy. The rest of the time conditions have been excellent.

I can highly reccommend the Hotel Glockenstuhl, owned/run by a lovely family. Great food, great wellness area (pool/steamrooms/saunas/etc), nice rooms. Not ski in/out, but there's a hire shop with a depot right by the bottom of the nursery slope (you can ski down to this btw). The hotel is a 2 minute walk along from, past a couple of bars wink
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Andy Sarah and Alistair that's really helpful thanks. Will definitely head out to Kaltenbach. Will decide about the valley run based on conditions and how the ski-ing's going I think! I'm pretty good with the Ahorn but have never really enjoyed the last steep bit...

Andy that does not sound like my sort of fun at all!
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Arctic Fox, Crystal and Inghams both sell accom. in Götzens, so you might find some Brits. Friends went a couple of years ago and didn't find the red back to Götzens that friendly. The rest of the Muttereralm was nice and easy though.
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