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Les Contamines - can anyone tell me more?

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
We're looking at Les Contamines for February half term and are wondering if an apartment near the La Gorge gondola would be better than the main Montjoie gondola. Am I right in thinking that you can't ski out to La Gorge? How far is the walk to town and are there any buses? Also, I've seen that there's an Intermarche just before St Gervais but what shopping is there in Les Contamines itself? Also, does anyone have any comments about ski schools in LC? In particular for children. Are the lessons 2 hours in the morning? And I see that there are two meeting points on the mountain for ESF. Where would the meeting point for children's lessons be?

Any other good info about LC woiuld be most welcome. What you like about it, where to eat out, good places to ski, where the secret stashes would be wink etc etc....

Many thanks in advance. Happy
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
La Gorge is in the middle of nowhere, so I don't think that there will be any apartments near there from memory. It is where I usually park and queues are rare, but generally speaking the resort is good for queues anyway. I haven't tried the other route up nearer the town. Either way I'd imagine shuttle buses will run to and from La Gorge. You can ski to the bottom of La Gorge bubble from the main runs, down an easy cat track.

There are a number of shops in the village itself along the main road, equipment, groceries, gifts, etc, including a small Casino supermarket (or similar). For a 'big supermarket shop' St Gervais would be better.

LC is great for snow despite its lowish altitude, due to its location by Mont Blanc. On a clear day the views of Mont Blanc are fantastic. There are loads of great runs, with lots of nice stuff just off the sides as well on powder days. The tierces run is a really flattering red run which is loads of fun and can be skied differently each time you try it. Similarly the area over the back to Hauteluce is nice, and sometimes can be clear when the LC side is in cloud. There is a nice restaurant called la ferme de la ruelle (or something similar) here

The four different days that I have been there, I have yet to see the velerey sector open. If you have a car it is worth trying Megeve from St Gervais for a day or two, as LC isn't huge, although just enough to keep you and the kids happy.

Can't comment on the ski schools I'm afraid
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Thanks Whitters Happy I think the place we're looking at is either a house or the bottom floor of a house. I checked out Google Maps last night and it does look quite remote with a few houses dotted about. We have another option of getting two apartments closer to town so maybe we'll check that out instead.

If anyone can help with ski school info that would be great. Happy
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My trip report from last christmas is here

Any questions off the back of that let me know.
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Thanks Layne, I did actually read your very helpful report. It sounds exactly what we're looking for this year. Happy Do you happen to know anything about ski schools there?
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geetee, I am fairly certain certain the ski school classes meet at the top of the Montjoie cable car. Whilst we didn't use it I remember seeing the meeting poles and seeing classes on the short run near to that. It is the only logical place really. Sorry I don't about the quality of the teaching and how long lessons are.
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Quote:

You can ski to the bottom of La Gorge bubble from the main runs, down an easy cat track.

IIRC at times it's quite a difficult cat track, rightly graded red and with some scary warning signs at the top. When I did it it was by some distance the hardest red on the mountain, I thought and the least interesting. Depends partly on snow cover and partly on how many people who should have downloaded find themselves unable to control their speed. Les Contamines village is quite low and the snow at that level is often very sketchy - a good deal of the time it will be more pleasant to take the gondola down. We took the run to see what it was like, and because the lost property office at the bottom had a wallet my OH had left at the Signal café. But I wouldn't bother again. There was a group of 3 blokes skiing down behind us, somewhat out of control, so we squeezed into the edge and let them pass. Then had to ski behind them, and wait while one who fell twice picked himself up.

Quote:

I am fairly certain certain the ski school classes meet at the top of the Montjoie cable car
I think that's right. The only ski schools I have seen there are ESF and UCPA. The BASS Megeve website http://www.bassmegeve.com/ makes mention of St Gervais and Les Contamines too but when I contacted them once, hoping to do some lessons with them in Les Contamines, they weren't doing anything there. You could give them a ring - they need to gather a few clients over there to make it worth their while, I guess.
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pam w, maybe, I guess it depends on the snow, and more importantly, the shear volume of people coming down at the end of the day which makes it tricky, although for complete beginners it is worth avoiding at all times.

Compared to say the long cat track down from Brevent in Chamonix though it is child's play. That was absolute carnage all the very, very long way down.
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Quote:

Compared to say the long cat track down from Brevent in Chamonix though it is child's play

I can imagine; have never skied that, just seen it - winter and summer - from the lift. Can't imagine why anyone bothers when there is such a lot of much more pleasurable skiing to be had.
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geetee, I know the village quite.. The main places to stay are Hameau du Lay, which effectively is loads of apartment blocks built up by one of the telecabines. There are a couple of bars and restaurants here as well a 1 or 2 shops, but it is not really that close to the village centre. The Gorge is even further up the road.

If all you care about is being right on top of the lift then stay up that end of the village... If you want to be next to village life, without the bus/car, or a reasonable walk, then you should stay closer to, or in, the village and make use of the free bus service to the lifts...

Don't get me wrong, Hameau du Lay is really nice and is only a 10 minute walk, but it is via the river and in complete darkness (I think it is longer by road), to the start of the village... I am sure brock will be along soon as he has a place up in Hameuau... He is also very knowledgable on LC and surrounding areas...

You can ski right down to the foot of both telecabines. It is the same run down and then splits at the last minute to take to you either the Gorge or Monjoie lifts. However, unless you need to I wouldn't bother doing this until you are ready to come home for the day. I rode down last in reasonably decent conditions but it was very busy and unless you've got decent control it can get a bit tricky at times... Good for a laugh but maybe not with the kids Smile

With ref to supermarkets, Les Contamines has an abundance of them. There is a Sherpa, a Spar and a Carrefour. All of good size and well stocked. Failing that then you have the Intermarche or SuperU at the foot of the hill in La Fayet (15 mins away)...

Best bar in the village is Ty Briez (and they do great, inexpensive food. Good to book as they get very busy, as it's only small...). Get to know the owner and he will not let you leave without sharing some Genepi... and the L'op Traken also does some good food... Amongst other places in the village as well.

I forget the name of it now but the Boulangerie (opposite the big screen in the village centre) has free WiFi as well so you can chill out over brekkie and surf, if you need to that is... Smile You can also sit outside after closing and use it Smile This is of course if you don't have WiFi in your chosen abode...

Les Contamines is a real gem with awesome skiing/riding and fantastic views... It is very much above the tree line so if tree lined runs is your thing then 'maybe' LC is not for you... Saying that, Saint Gervais/Megeve are nothing but tree lined runs and it is only 5 mins down the road to Saint Gervais (by car) and on the same Evasion Mont Blanc pass...

I am not sure if you will have transport or not so if you don't then ignore this... But, in a week in this area you could do:

Day 1 - LC
Day 2 - LC
Day 3 - Saint Gervais
Day 4 - Megeve
Day 5 - Combloux and La Geittaz
Day 6 - LC

Of course this is if you fancy mixing things up, but I have just remembered you saying you were looking at Ski School so maybe you'll need to stay in LC all week... Which will still be equally good Smile

If anything else comes to mind, or you have anymore Qs then just shout Smile I'll see if I can help.

Have a top time if you do decide on this place... If you need any help on places you're considering then get in touch and I might be able to help you out on their location etc...
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Wow! Thanks AlpineAddict, that's fantastic! Just to explain a little, we are two families. Us with one child who will be 10 and who skis well (not planning on ski school this trip and she can ski with us) and the other family who have two children who will be 9 and 7. They may do ski school or two or three private lessons hence the questions about ski school. The week's itinerary looks interesting and I was thinking that we might drive down to at least Megeve once. It depends on what our friends are doing though as to whether or not we have another day away.

I think I actually like the look of Hameau du Lay now as it has some amenities whereas the other place is completely away from anything. Do you know what Bar Le Saxo, Restaurant La Trabla and Auberge du Barattet are like as places to eat out? Does Hotel La Chemenaz have a nice restaurant?

And, finally, what are the roads like up to LC? We'll probably get winter tyres (have a 4x4) and I guess we have to have snow chains by law but is the clearing generally pretty good?

Thanks Happy
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
geetee, Unfortunately I can't help much on the ski school as I don't need it Smile and never really taken any notice of it... Sorry... If you have the transport available, then I would recommend a trip down the road to either SG or Megeve... Megeve is completely a different world!!!! I was there for the first time about 5 weeks back and I could not believe the shops there... It really is a fur wearers paradise...!!!

Anyway... If you want to ski Megeve specifically then I would drive to Megeve... You can get the TC up from Saint Gervais, however it is a double TC up then a run (or 2, I can't remember) down, then the cable across and then you get up to Megeve... By which time you will have wasted the best part of 1.5hrs maybe just getting there... Easier to do the extra 5-10 mins drive and get into Megeve IMO... Not done Combloux or La Geittaz yet but I plan to this winter as they do look like pretty chilled places to ride around in for a day...

Like I said, Hameau is a decent enough area of the resort, and it is very close to the lifts, so a huge plus point on that front, although there is oodles of parking by both Telecabines...

My place is down in the village so I don't tend to venture up to Hameau too much... I know Bar Saxo is quite small (smaller than Ty Briez from memory, although I was very drunk and it was late). It is right in the middle of the apartment complexes... I can't really tell you about any of the food stuff up there as I have never eaten up there...

No idea about Hotel La Chemenaz but it does look very nice on their 360 pano photos... Smile If you're staying there I am sure it will be awesome... Smile

Finally the roads up... It is roughly 7 miles from when you leave the motorway to get to LC... The main road is busy, has a few windy bits, but generally not too bad... It only has to go up 300 mtrs in height to get to Saint Gervais so not long at all..It will always be constantly cleared (unless of course there is a blizzard late one night...). The road on from SG to LC is quite gradual in gradient and reasonably straight as it just cruises up the valley... Everytime I have been, the village is pretty well looked after as far as road clearing is concerned... Chains are always a must to carry... Cant and wont comment on winter tyres... Would be your choice Smile By Feb half term you'd hope the weather was starting to warm a little Smile But who can tell... Smile
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AlpineAddict, I'd recommend trying out the Jaillet/la giettaz section this winter, some very nice runs and tends to be quieter than the other Megeve sectors, even on a Sunday.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
pam w wrote:
Quote:

Compared to say the long cat track down from Brevent in Chamonix though it is child's play

I can imagine; have never skied that, just seen it - winter and summer - from the lift. Can't imagine why anyone bothers when there is such a lot of much more pleasurable skiing to be had.


the nantes run is possibly one of the best pistes in chamonix, the sheer numbers of switch backs create soo many natural features that for anyone with a desire to jump up, off or down stuff its hard to beat.
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Whitters wrote:
AlpineAddict, I'd recommend trying out the Jaillet/la giettaz section this winter, some very nice runs and tends to be quieter than the other Megeve sectors, even on a Sunday.


if you can get to Giettaz after a snow fall its one of the best places in the area. The pistes there are ok but some off piste through the trees is truely awesome!
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
AlpineAddict wrote:

Anyway... If you want to ski Megeve specifically then I would drive to Megeve... You can get the TC up from Saint Gervais, however it is a double TC up then a run (or 2, I can't remember) down, then the cable across and then you get up to Megeve... By which time you will have wasted the best part of 1.5hrs maybe just getting there... Easier to do the extra 5-10 mins drive and get into Megeve IMO... Not done Combloux or La Geittaz yet but I plan to this winter as they do look like pretty chilled places to ride around in for a day...

You could also park at Le Bettex above St Gervais and miss out the first section of the telecabine.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Coming up from St Gervais the Princessa lift (I think that's its name) is on the first Megeve roundabout you come to, and there's a big free car park.
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pam w wrote:
Coming up from St Gervais the Princessa lift (I think that's its name) is on the first Megeve roundabout you come to, and there's a big free car park.


A good option, but for me, you would still be getting that lift up to do the run down to the cable across... No idea on times but would it no just be easier to go straight to Megeve??? I don't know Smile

On another note, is there a navette that runs from the bottom of the Princessa to Combloux...? Be really good if there was as it would open up the Princessa lift a lot more...
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Quote:

is there a navette that runs from the bottom of the Princessa to Combloux...?

I don't know, but miranda probably would. Like you, I'm still waiting to ski combloux - been on the "to do" list for years now, but I'd be going by car.
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Quote:

is there a navette that runs from the bottom of the Princessa to Combloux...?

There is, but it would be faster to take one to Jaillet as it would be at least 20 minutes going through Combloux (and I am not sure it is very frequent). http://www.combloux.com/en/discover/acces-map/bus-taxis.html#

To be honest, if in LC for a week, I would not bother going to Megeve other than for window shopping. There is enough skiing in LC and Hauteluce for seven days. However, SG has plenty more km and if you really need a change of scenery, there is also the tram from SG to Les Houches.

And for the OP, definitely do not stay out near the Gorge lift - nothing else there.
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Quote:

And for the OP, definitely do not stay out near the Gorge lift - nothing else there.


To be fair... I really cannot think of any accommodation up there... When you come back down from the gorge, you hit that roundabout where you go straight over to get to Montjoie and the beginnings of Lay, or you turn right and then left, past the biathlon area... then down to Lay again...
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Thanks everyone for all the info - most helpful! Smile

AlpineAddict, there is a small number of houses about 100 to 200m from the Gorge telecabine.
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geetee, In which case... Don't stay there as there really is nothing there except a big car park, a telecabine,and ... well... not a lot else... And it would be a sizeable walk to the village...

Hope you have fun regardless Smile
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AlpineAddict, thanks, I've come to that conclusion now! Smile. It does look like quite a nice place inside from the photos but we're going to try and get somewhere in Hameau du Lay. It will be nice to be able to walk to get bread in the morning and have a few more amenities on our doorstep. We don't need rip-roaring apres and are happy with somewhere quiet so I think it will be ideal.
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re accomodation at hameaux du ley There are several agencies have property there -Les contamines immobiller.mont blanc immobilier,interhome.Ski4less and as it happens my flat is available that week if you are interested please pm me.Ski schools-Esf And
ESI
Snowsession
91 chemin de la Revenaz
74170 Les Contamines-Montjoie
Renseignements, réservations :
Tél : 06 14 01 52 22
Fax : 04 50 47 15 52
ESI
Snowsession
91 chemin de la Revenaz
74170 Les Contamines-Montjoie
Renseignements, réservations :
Tél : 06 14 01 52 22
Fax : 04 50 47 15 52
snowsession.esi@free.fr
www.snowsession.com
snowsession.esi@free.fr
If you intend to go to other resorts eg megeve it may be worth looking at the evaison lift pass.There is lots of info on www.lescontamines.com
If you want ski school in half term week you would be well advised to book as they can get very busy.
any other question do not hesitate to contact me
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I'm also looking at LC for this year as it looks a charming, fascinating place and I want a genuine French resort with my 18 and 13 daughters.
One thing worries me though - rain.
As the village is only at 1100m does it stay as beautifully "white" as the website and photos have it looking.
I'm looking to go Feb 1st - I know its vain to worry about this but the charm factor is crucial to me. Should I not worry?
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Conrad Bool, Not vein at all... Everyone loves to go to ski resorts that look like that 'picture perfect' ski village... LC may only be at 1100m but it does get a lot of snow in Winter, due to it's position next to Mont Blanc... The actual ski range has a very enviable snow record and is often the place that everyone gets bussed into when other resorts are struggling with little or no snow...

This is an image from mid Jan in the village centre...



It is impossible to predict how long the village will have snow, and by Feb, things should start hotting up, but the village had pretty good snow cover for the vast majority of last season...

Check out this page here and use the calendar above to see what conditions were like for the time you wish to visit...

http://www.webcam-ski.com/webcams/interfaces/village/interface.php?pk_interface=347&m=images&r=historique&annee=2013&mois=2&jour=11
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Conrad Bool, welcome to Snowheads. snowHead that very pretty picture is taking after fresh snow - the road is still white etc etc. It won't look like that for long after fresh snow but "time of the season" makes little difference - it can snow (or not snow) at any time. Last season was exceptionally snowy; they are not all like that.

I have an apartment and ski in another area in the same vicinity, where the skiing drops down to 1100m in several places. Normally the skiing is absolutely fine, and the roofs snowy, and early February is an ideal time, really. BUT if you want to go for a more traditional village then you have to put less stress on "resort level snow". And of course, some days after there's been any snow, there are big dirty piles by the side of the roads - there's no getting round that!! And yes, if you hit a warm spell (which can happen at any time of the season), it can rain at village level. If you want to reduce the possibility of any rain you need to head a lot higher, obviously, and forego some of the "charm".

Les Contamines is indeed a very snow sure area with the best of the skiing a lot higher than the village, and east facing. Some lovely long red runs down from the Col de Joly and at least one very pretty restaurant (the Roselette, which is my favourite).

If you are desperate to do the "Veleray blacks" then you might be disappointed - they are often closed; because of aspect they lose their snow. someone earlier in the thread said they'd never seen them open, and neither have I, though I don't go to LC that often!

References to "Hauteluce" have caused confusion on discussions about Les Contamines before so perhaps I should clear that up. The Les Contamines area leads up to the Col de Joly and from there you can find a variety of open runs down to Belleville, in the Hauteluce Valley (they don't keep their snow as well as the LC side, but mostly are fine). However the actual village of Hauteluce (which is a genuinely old place with a great deal of "traditional charm") is quite a bit further down the valley - you can't ski to Hauteluce from Les Contamines. Hauteluce village is at the bottom of the Les Saisies ski domain, where my apartment is. But I usually advise people not to stay down there, because apart from being a bit low, you can only ski down on a red run which is quite often reliant on artificial snow, because of its altitude and aspect. You can't download in a lift and the bus or car ride down from Les Saisies is quite long and winding. Les Saisies village (despite the usual spurious claims about traditional Savoyard architecture on the website...) is not remotely genuinely traditional because it's at 1650m (much of it is purpose built for skiing as, indeed, is much of Les Contamines). But it's a pleasant place, no high rise, fair bit of character, fantastic snow record.

But my main message is that you have to accept a trade-off between "traditional village" and "likelihood of resort level snow". It didn't make sense centuries ago to build permanent settlements where there would be snow on the ground for 6 or 7 months of the year.

FWIW I would happily spend a week in Les Contamines, and wouldn't bother to go to Megeve. LC offers lots of opportunities for easily accessible off-piste, too, if that is your bag.
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Thank you that is very helpful indeed - I have been on snowheads before as Phatcon, but completely forgot my sign in and the email addy I'd registerd under. I've always gone to purpose built resorts higher up before but fancied more genuine French charm this time. But it is funny how many people conceive charm because one of the loveliest resorts I've stayed in in terms of charming people was Le Corbier in the Les Sybelles which is like a 60s sink estate architecturally but is a great ski area and full of nice French families, Belgians and Dutch and a few Brits. So atmosphere takes many angles. But LC looks very appealling - how is it cost wise? Lift passes are not too bad, although to me all seem to be more expensive now - but I mean meals/beers/vin chauds etc? Thanks for the input thus far.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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beequin wrote:
Quote:

is there a navette that runs from the bottom of the Princessa to Combloux...?

There is, but it would be faster to take one to Jaillet as it would be at least 20 minutes going through Combloux (and I am not sure it is very frequent). http://www.combloux.com/en/discover/acces-map/bus-taxis.html#

To be honest, if in LC for a week, I would not bother going to Megeve other than for window shopping. There is enough skiing in LC and Hauteluce for seven days. However, SG has plenty more km and if you really need a change of scenery, there is also the tram from SG to Les Houches.

And for the OP, definitely do not stay out near the Gorge lift - nothing else there.


les contamines does have plently of area to keep you amused, I wouldnt disagree with that, although on a cold white out day its a horrible place to be. On days like that your much better off in giettaz, st.gervais, megeve...anywhere really!
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Conrad Bool, Prices are about average. Not the cheapest; about the same as St Gervais, but less than in Megeve or Chamonix. A couple of decent mountain restaurants - one of which you often have to reserve (and takes cash only). Chance of rain in Feb is low, even at village level but it does make walking around easier and will almost certainly fall as snow up on the mountain.
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Back again. We're having problems getting either accommodation in the same building or an apartment that will fit us all. Brock is your apartment in the Le Nevez apartments by any chance??! Happy I've found a really nice place but it's in the main town. Just how busy is the shuttle bus likely to be on a typical half term week? I'm assuming everyone will be packed in like sardines!! One of the downsides of the main town apartment is that it only has one parking space.

By the way, thanks for the ski school info Brock, most useful. Happy
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my property is in enclave. burnsy on here also has a property in the same building you could contact him direct or it is with interhome if it has not gone yet .This chap may know of a property mark.johnston@wanadoo.fr
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brock, Thanks, all sorted now with apartments in Le Nevez. Happy
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geetee, we will be in Portes du Mont Blanc area if you fancy a meet up one day. Unless it's really silly busy then hope to have at least one day in Megeve (probably parking Princess area as it is free still, I hope Toofy Grin ) x
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Hi marmotte16! Yes, we could try and plan that Happy We can sort something out nearer the time and swap numbers etc. Whereabouts will you be staying?
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geetee, La Giettaz Very Happy Very Happy
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marmotte16, are you staying at...

http://www.chalet-la-giettaz.com
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AlpineAddict, oh yes Very Happy Very Happy Quite a regular now.
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 Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
marmotte16, Cool... Always wondered what their place was like... Would love to stay over there one day. What is the skiing like over in La Giettaz ?
snow report



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