 Poster: A snowHead
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Just arrived back from Morzine yesterday after a fortnight out there.
Had an absolutely top top top time, so thought I'd put a wee report out for you:
Snow - I last skiied on Saturday so it may have changed, but it hadn't snowed since last Monday so the pistes were getting pretty hardened and a little scraped in places. Offpiste was pretty crusty on top but still decent. They've also pisted a few of the blacks (mainly yet in les gets) to get rid of the moguls.
Les Gets has the better snow, better pistes and more choice and range of restaurants. The Moutons au chats lift isn't working yet (not busy enough) so occasionally a small 2 minute queue was building up at the nearest ranfoilly express and nauchets express lifts to get people back up the mountain. The reds are just fantastic (rhodons seems to have the best snow as it softens earliest, tulipe is just lovely, especially when they open up the super g run), but they're not particularly long. The Mt Chery side was nearly always dead, but also has great snow. We were still cutting fresh tracks in knee deep powder in the late morning, even after lunch. One of the funniest finds was on the Mt Chery side - there's a little bar / cafe halfway way the red / black runs from the top (moulons? mouchons?) where the owner of a place called something like Chaperelles has a cockerel who he's trained to stand outside on a wooden crate. It has a sign around its neck advertising '1/2 poulet et frites et salad 14E) which is just genius and very funny. The cockerel is pretty friendly too. The same pub has a shaggy dog who he's trained to bark at snow boarders! The only downsides to les gets were the slow lifts and the short runs.
Avoriaz and the area down to Chatel and the plein tranche (spelling!) is decent and had some lovely runs through the trees although the upper ones were pretty bleak when the wind got up. Many of the blue runs are really greens and some of the reds are really blues. Actually some of the blacks (les combes) are even reds. Snow was generally excellent. Mostly good lift system and only a few bottlenecks. Generally, it was a very rare event when I had to wait for more than a minute for a lift.
We went over to the swiss side 3 times and were usually disappointed. They don't look after the pistes the same way and mix way too much artificial snow with the good stuff. They don't name the pistes on the maps. They only occasionally name the pistes at all. The food was exceptionally expensive, even by French resort standards and the service was friendly but unbelievably inefficient. The top section of the didier defago run (a rare named run in les crosets) is absolutely brilliant, but the rest is pretty dull. The lift system back up the mountain from morgins is slow and lacking in numbers, so there are big queues at the weekends when the swiss come out. There was also a noticeable increase in exceptionally fast, barely in control weekend warrior skiers and boarders on Saturday.
Piste maps are dreadful. One side has a broad overview, the other a detailed area. There are 4 areas covered in detail, so you need to pick up all 4 maps from a ticket office in that area, not available through something central like perhaps the tourist info in Morzine. So you've already got lost a few times while you make your way down to Morgins or Chatel before you get the detailed version of the right map. There are runs on the detailed side that don't exist on the detailed side and the connections between the lifts are completely different. The Swiss can't even be bothered naming or numbering the pistes, so you have no idea where you are going anyway, other than by following the signs to the town that you wish to head towards. Only the les gets side is remotely accurate.
Food and drink wise, we were well covered in catered chalets, but we did get out and about. In Morzine, Dixies have a live Irish pub band in from 6 pm evey night and the atmosphere was just brilliant and almost austrian in the number of ski booted drunks singing along at 9 pm! Robbo's next door was a less raucous quieter bar, but very good. The Tibetan was excellent - average age 40+ though, but good service, excellent music and good happy hour deals. I'm 41 and loved it. The bar at the very top of that road next to the Pleney lift were running a dj most nights from 4 pm. The service was shite, unless you were blond and female and 20. The drinks were normal expensive and the dj was of the new school variety where he just played a bass drum machine very loudly and didn't bother with anything melodic. I hated it. My wife said she liked it, but I suspect she was just thriving watching the grumpy old man despise everything about it. Restaurant wise, we only went out three times for food. The first was with some mates in a catered chalet just down the road, so that doesn't count. The second night was at the coup au coueur on the main st, which is a wine bar. We both had pizza, which was sound and the wine was very reasonably priced and we sat on fur rugs outside under heat lamps. Went there once for some evening drinks and quite liked it too. Decent wee bar. Best meal of the fortnight was at a place called the clin d'oeil (spelling!) at the back of dixies, which has a few English / English speaking staff there and the most amazing French food I've ever eaten. Cracking wine list. You will need to book. I will go there everytime we're in Morzine, it was that good.
On the pistes, avoid the swiss side. The self serve place at the top of the super chatel telecabin was very very well priced and the food was delicious. Similar experience at the cafe at the bottom of the chatel telecabin, although the atmosphere is definitely cafe not restaurant. Best meal on the piste was at la paika on the turche side of les gets, and it wasn#t that expensive for what it was. It does get busy though. The grand ourse on the top of mt chery had live music on during lunch time and did amazing pizzas and pasta and wasn't too pricey. We found a creperie at the top of the super morzine which looks as if it's up some steps from the cable car side, but is right next to the piste on the other. Most superb hot chocolates of the fortnight, lovely staff and the music is predominantly 70s funk on the patio. Fire outside most of the time and it catches the last of the sun. Inside, there's a blofelt type white fluffy cat who sleeps on a tray next to the door all day and is now retired from pulling the sleigh all day, even though he's only 8 years old.
Hope this all helps!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Wow - great read there, thanks for that.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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wadgebeast, What a great review, thanks. I'm heading out to Morzine in 10 days so it's a massive help to me.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Just over 2 weeks til we get there (for the dreaded half term week)... but I'm getting SO excited now, I'm worse than the children! Thanks for all that info 
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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wadgebeast, A pretty comprehensive report - sounds like you got round most of the area.
I'm a bit surprised by "The self serve place at the top of the super chatel telecabin was very very well priced and the food was delicious". We've used it a couple of times and never again. Food was very poor and it had the atmosphere of some kind of institutional canteen. If you ski down to the bottom of the drag lifts below the snowpark the "Restaurant Portes du Soleil" usually turns out a a decent lunch.
The place over on Mont Chery with the cockerel and dog sounds like a must visit!
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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wadgebeast, Great review. I'm off to Les Gets on saturday so will keep an eye out for some of your highlights, particularly the bar with the Cockerel!
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jubnut, I think you'll find the bar restau with the cock is the "Chanterelles". Good vfm.
I thought the PDS had made significant improvements to this year's map. Although I never use one so can't really comment.
I also am somewhat confused that you thought Les Gets had "better" snow (than Avoriaz?) and restaurants (than Lindarets?). I am going to suggest you missed out by selecting self service establishments in Chatel and by not visiting the Tane O'Marmottes, Pierre au Loup, or indeed most of the restaurants in Lindarets valley.
Not at all surprising that you were less than impressed on the Swiss side. I am afraid that is a function of geography (more south facing) and economics (über-strong Swiss Franc) rather than anything particularly deliberate or malicious. 
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Where is the border between lift passes? We are only skiing 3 days so will only get the Mor zine/Les Gets pass, how does that fit in to the above review? I know the Swiss side needs the full PDS but what about Mt Chery and Chatel?
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Nunfa1, Mont Chery is on the Morzine/Les Gets pass but Chatel would require a PDS (as would the Swiss side, Avoriaz and Super Morzine).
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DJL, thanks, that's pretty much how I figured it would be. Will deffo make an effort to visit the cockerel place then
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Nunfa1, There is plenty to do for three days in Morzine and Les Gets but in my view it would be worth having at least one day over in Avoriaz (and maybe the Swiss side or Chatel). The skiing is of a slightly different character and you would miss out on some of the best snow which is (or course) up high. If you're looking for restaurant recommendations (and this thread seems to have picked up a gastronomic theme recently) Brocheaux or Abricotine at the bottom of the French Mosettes chair is worth a go.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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DJL, 1 of our group was a regular visitor to Morzine, although hasn't been for a few years, so we will be pretty much guided by him. The snow conditions at the time may also have a bearing on where we end up.
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Wadgebeast, Amazing review. Well done plenty of detail. We out in Chatel at end of Feb and you've really helped build anticipation. Glad you had a good time. Thanks for the post.
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You know it makes sense.
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A little vid from last week...
http://vimeo.com/58346924
Needs another 10cm to freshen up the off piste now, but otherwise a perfect week.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Poster: A snowHead
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braddersads, Hi bradders, great video conditions looked great. Where is the beginning bit where you are walking the summit carrying skis? Looks like a superb run.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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It's called the col du portes du soleil. It's off the top of the mossettes lift. Head down the red to croset and will see a hill on the bend between the piste that heads to morgin and the piste that heads to croset. You end up on a very long and slow blue to morgin. alternatively drop in on the other side of the valley and follow it off piste a lot further down the valley. Be warned though, it gave way when we rode it and carried one of our group all the way to the bottom.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Thanks for the tip, braddersads, will look out for it (checking snow condtions and avalanche risk first!)
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Another tip for you. If its fresh head to the freeride area above nyon. A chair takes you to the top so you can loads of runs in fresh stuff without having to trek. We had the whole of Tuesday there to ourselves pretty much.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| under a new name wrote: |
jubnut, I think you'll find the bar restau with the cock is the "Chanterelles". Good vfm.
I thought the PDS had made significant improvements to this year's map. Although I never use one so can't really comment.
I also am somewhat confused that you thought Les Gets had "better" snow (than Avoriaz?) and restaurants (than Lindarets?). I am going to suggest you missed out by selecting self service establishments in Chatel and by not visiting the Tane O'Marmottes, Pierre au Loup, or indeed most of the restaurants in Lindarets valley.
Not at all surprising that you were less than impressed on the Swiss side. I am afraid that is a function of geography (more south facing) and economics (über-strong Swiss Franc) rather than anything particularly deliberate or malicious. |
Just didn't happen to be lunchtime whenever we went through the lindarets valley! They all looked ok, had one decent meal at a self serve place at the bottom of the rochessons lift in that wee square with the church in it. The cheaper self service places were selected for a reason - we often just wanted to be in and straight back out again on our time, rather than being on French waiter time. Quality wise, La Paika up in les gets was one of the best piste meals I've had in years.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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braddersads, Loads of slides in that area last year. If I recall correctly it faces pretty much due south (the clue's in the name) and gets a huge amount of sun. Caution!
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| DJL wrote: |
wadgebeast, A pretty comprehensive report - sounds like you got round most of the area.
I'm a bit surprised by "The self serve place at the top of the super chatel telecabin was very very well priced and the food was delicious". We've used it a couple of times and never again. Food was very poor and it had the atmosphere of some kind of institutional canteen. If you ski down to the bottom of the drag lifts below the snowpark the "Restaurant Portes du Soleil" usually turns out a a decent lunch.
The place over on Mont Chery with the cockerel and dog sounds like a must visit! |
I can only report that for less than 5 E, I got a bowl of the best goulash soup I've ever tasted and my missus was well pleased with whatever she had. We also ate outside, so I can't comment on the atmosphere inside. Normal soup price on the mountain was closer to 14E.
I'll see if I can post up the picture of the cockerel from my i-phone later!
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thanks DJL, braddersads, for both tip and warning.
I'm definitely going to get me a bowl of that goulash wadgebeast!
On another note, bit of a "how long's a piece of string" question, but looking at the forecast for heavy snow on saturday, is it likely to be a nightmare getting into Les Gets. Coming in from Geneva on a private transfer (mini bus).
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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There was a heavy snow flurry this afternoon, now it is raining in avoriaz!!!
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wadgebeast, definitely La Paika is quite delightful, but somewhere you don't want to ski from after lunch, for obvious over-indulgence reasons he he he !
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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| David Murdoch wrote: |
| wadgebeast, definitely La Paika is quite delightful, but somewhere you don't want to ski from after lunch, for obvious over-indulgence reasons he he he ! |
And also because the service is usually so slow (unless they've fixed it this year) that it's early evening by the time you get out! 
It is, though, a very fine place to waste and afternoon.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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The younger members of our family and their friends had a very splendid lunch in La Paika on Sunday afernoon - the pictures on Facebook made me drool - we were just busy looking after their daughter! They had had a guide on Saturday up in Ardent/Chatel who had left them all rather broken by late afternoon... bit damp here this evening.
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"Waste"?
You are clearly in George Best mode...!
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You know it makes sense.
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Please can we have something else apart from rain in Avoriaz, please!
View out of our window...
Edit- and some decent light for the slopes!
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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MrSteve, agree! We were over from Ardent, Fornet, and then down the wall (on the chair) into Switzerland, it kept looking as if the sun was trying to come out. Snow very soft and the light not good.
Home by 1.30 for a lot of domestic tasks. Sounds wet out there now.
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Poster: A snowHead
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Never seen so much rain in a ski resort at 1800 in January............. was really warm today
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Blue_Owl, forecast much colder next week
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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under a new name, David Murdoch,
Whoever you are. Are you around for a snowy ski next week?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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zzz,
As the saying goes,
Roses are red, violets are blue,
I'm schizophrenic
And so am I
Ski? Next week?
Might be...
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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There's nothing like commitment under a new name.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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truly dire conditions today in Linderet. Rock hard ice, hardpack and the sound of edges trying to get a grip. I planned to go to Swiss side but it was so bad, and windy on top, that I took the bubble back down which I never usually do. Bring on the snow!
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| Milk Corbum wrote: |
| truly dire conditions today in Linderet. Rock hard ice, hardpack and the sound of edges trying to get a grip. |
Agreed! We went over to Morzine, Nyon and Chamossiere and in the whole day only the blue runs in the trees had pleasant snow. Everywhere else was very hard and I struggled to get edges to grip.
Let's see what tomorrow brings... 
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