 Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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FastMan,
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on the old inside (uphill) foot
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Am I being daft - why are they 'old' legs? I know I'm no spring chicken but ahem........ old????
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Jeraff, you gotta feel it.... words dont do it justice but.....
V8 summarised as:
"stoked" - adjective - to be "stoked" is to be completely and intensely enthusiastic, exhilirated, or excited about something. those who are stoked all of the time know this; being stoked is the epitome of all being. when one is stoked, there is no limit to what one can do.
1. the state of being amped or pumped
2. a feeling exuberant jubilation towards others, events or your surroundings upcoming or present
usage:
"Man oh man am i stoked for our upcoming snowboarding trip!"
"Dude, I'm so stoked to go shred the rad gnar up in MK, I heard they got like three feet of fresh pow!"
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Is there a cool word for when you've just realised you've been a bit of div?
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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| Parkyparcours wrote: |
FastMan,
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on the old inside (uphill) foot
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Am I being daft - why are they 'old' legs? I know I'm no spring chicken but ahem........ old???? |
Hey, I'm over 50 now ya know! 
It's a descriptor I came up with a number of years ago to help identify which foot/leg/ski I was referring to during a transition between turns. During a turn it's clear which is the inside and outside foot/ski. When your going through a transition it changes. So if I were to say to you, "as you go through the transition push down on your inside ski", you might not know which ski I'm talking about. The inside ski of the prior (old) turn, or the inside ski of the coming (new) turn? See? It's just to provide clarity.
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Sorry but I have not had time to read through all of this follow-up thread.
However, BASI grade 1 is the highest and 3 the lowest, not the other way round.
I have encountered "Counter Angulation" in which you deliberately lean in, in order to flatten the skis on the slope (very difficult when you have learned to do the opposite). Used off piste on a fragile crust in order to not break through and involving lots of deliberate skidding in turns. Used partly so not to spoil a slope for possible spring snow skiing.
Ski mountaineers, or even more adventurous off-piste skiers may use real "crampons" so there is a need to distinguish from ski-crampons or harscheisen.
Anyone who uses guides much at a reasonably high level will have used a "carabiner".
Not sure if other terms from rope work and belays for rope-work could be in (eg a snow "bollard" seen often in Scotland)
Perhaps you could include "Old School" - legs glued together.
Having learned to ski in the late 50s and 60s I was interested to discover more recently that the meaning of some terms had slipped. When I learned, a stem turn was what is now a snowplough turn. A stem-christie was what is now called a stem turn (closing the stem towards the end of the turn). A Christie was the name for a paralel turn.
Last edited by After all it is free  on Thu 2-10-08 19:35; edited 1 time in total
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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snowball, just to confuse everyone, BASI changed its levels so you start at 1 now
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snowball, as arno says BASI changed that a few years ago.... i will be adding crampons and the cross country stuff soon.. Havent heard of counter angulation before...
"old skool" hmm..... anyone fancy a go
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Oh OK - so BASI changed it. I looked on a BASI site to check first but must have got an old site.
I should have realised it would be spelled Old Skool. 
Just to confuse you I was adding to my last post while you were posting (rope stuff as used by guides with clients? climbing harness , carabiner etc).
Last edited by snowHeads are a friendly bunch. on Thu 2-10-08 19:42; edited 1 time in total
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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snowball, carabiner is a good one, have a go at a definition..... you could also add some ski mountaineerins stuff if others arent on the list. prussac etc....
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snowball, "old school legs glued together" is not far off "nu skool legs close together" for powder (less essential) and bumps (completely essential...)
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You know it makes sense.
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Carabiner (or Karabiner): An oval (actually pear-shaped) or D-shaped link of lightweight aluminum or alloy (or steel for heavy duty), that serves as the climber's all-purpose connector. Guides will use it to connect a rope to a client's harness (see Harness or Climbing Harness) or it may connect a belay to a rope or a pulley. A screw-gate Carabiner can be locked by using a screw thread. A wire-gate carabiner is more lightweight and cannot be locked.
Edited.
Last edited by You know it makes sense. on Sun 5-10-08 11:49; edited 4 times in total
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Harness or Climbing Harness. Used by climbers and issued to clients by ski guides if skiing on glaciers with cravasse danger or short pitches of extreme exposure descending very steep slopes. Also to walk along the arrete which starts the Vallee Blanche. Used to connect a climber, walker or skier to a rope, usually via a Carabiner. A strap around the waist is attached to two others passing around the base of the buttocks and up between the legs, joining together to be attached to the waist strap at the front (this junction is the normal place for attachments).
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Poster: A snowHead
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Prusik: A loop of thin cord, itself looped several times around a thicker rope. Used by climbers to attach themselves or anything else to a rope via a carabiner in such a way that it can be slid along the rope but, if weight is put on it, it locks in place through friction. Also verb: to climb up a rope using 2 prusiks alternately, one attached to the climbers harness, the other to a loop to support his/her foot.
Edited
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Sun 5-10-08 11:51; edited 3 times in total
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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snowball, I always thought that it was prusik, and that the cord was only looped around the rope twice.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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You need to define the difference between a HMS and a Karibiner. Prusek can be easily explained, you just need to be careful with this kind of endorsement.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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SMALLZOOKEEPER,
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You need to define the difference between a HMS and a Karibiner.
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go for it... or is a caribiner a bit too banana shaped instead of pear shaped for you 
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| rjs wrote: |
| snowball, I always thought that it was prusik, and that the cord was only looped around the rope twice. |
Not the way we were taught it - more like 4 or 5 times. I don't think twice would hold. However there are 3 different ways to do it and we were recommended two of them - neither of them the one called the prusik knot (or should that be hitch) which may have been what you had in mind and I think wraps round 3 times (we were briefly shown it but didn't use it).
Yes, sorry, it is Prusik. I've never seen it written down. I saw on the internet someone had spelt it the other way, but it was wrong.
Similarly, looking at climbing sites, Karabiner seems to be a variant but Carabiner the norm. Karibiner is not used.
As someone complete new to most of this I am not the best one to define the terms - I don't even know what an HMS is!!!
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Since many people who are, at best, ski teachers rather than Mountain Guides call themselves guides, should mention be made of guide qualifications (UIAGM etc)?
Should other climbing terms go in or should we keep clear of ski-mountaineering and stay with normal skiing (which includes normal off-piste with guides?) Prusik is a case in point - though one of many terms relevant to cravasse rescue and possibly relevant to getting out of a cravasse under your own power if you were lucky enough to have been roped up and had already learned how to do it and could get at your prusiks and werent wedged in or too hurt in the fall......... rather a lot of ifs.
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| snowball wrote: |
| Not the way we were taught it - more like 4 or 5 times. I don't think twice would hold. However there are 3 different ways to do it and we were recommended two of them - neither of them the one called the prusik knot (or should that be hitch) |
Yes, when I was taught this stuff the (French) guides showed and used the Autoblock (aka French Prusik) and Klemheist but not the Prusik itself. The number of turns depends on the ropes being used. AIUI, more turns gives more secure hold, but make it harder to move the knot along the standing rope.
It's probably best to link to some of the sites that have animations on how to tie these knots for better/fuller explanations than we need here. I would guess that the knots that we'd be principally interested in are Autoblock, Klemheist, Figure of 8, Overhand, Fisherman's and Alpine Butterfly along with Italian hitch.
There seems to be a good few pages on Prusiks here
Other knots look to me to be well covered here and here
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Yes, we were taught the French Prusik and Klemheist on the Snowheads trip. I notice there are actually 5 Prussic knots on the website you gave.
To repeat something I said earlier: did anyone get the name of the smaller of the two books the Welsh team showed us at the end?
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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OK I looked up HMS and found HMS Carabiner, it is just a steel carabiner (nothing to do with the navy) - so just add "or sometimes steel" to the materials for a carabiner.
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snowball, Can't recall the book, only the Off-Piste Essentials DVD..which I presume isn't quite ready yet. I can't get into the ski section of their website either...
Not so sure about how many knots you want to tie yourself up with.
For me, Italian hitch, Figure of 8, Overhand, and the Klem and French Prusek....and remember to listen to your a***hole when tieing off...
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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I have a load of photo's and diagrams here to upload but my account wont let me. Grahame?
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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SMALLZOOKEEPER, what were these trying to say?
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You know it makes sense.
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snowball, Oh yeah, you need to look at the images in the snowMedia thing to see what is meant
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Still not sure what you are saying.The HMS carabiner looks just like the standard aluminium ones Slush and Rubble were offering. Is the snapgate a more substantial version of the flimsy wiregate (ie unlockable)?
What are the arrows and circled areas indicating?
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Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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For anyone that can't be bothered to run the links on the carabiner photos SZK has kindly posted the following explanations under the pictures in the media zone:
The red karabiner
Designed to be under load almost 100% during use through those axis shown by the black arrows. All of this type of Karabiner are stamped with a 'H' or with 'HMS' as circled here in green.
SZK says that this one is an HMS karabiner
The blue karabiner
Designed to be loaded at all times or by shock through the Axis shown here by the black arrow. Note, there is no stamp to define type as circled here in green
SZK says that this one is a standard snapgate karabiner
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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HMS Karabiner: The name HMS derives From the German term for Munter hitch belay: 'Halbmastwurfsicherung' and is used to describe a larger screwgate suitable for belaying with a Munter or Italian hitch. They are also ideal for use where two ropes need to be tied to the same point. Much used for belay plates too
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Sorry SMALLZOOKEEPER, I only saw the titles and missed the explanations.
Mine have an H on them so it seems Slush and Rubble sold me 2 HMS Karabiners (or Carabiners). But they don't go through the hole in my Ropeman when there is a rope in it, so I'll have to take them back. However mine are lightweight so cannot be made of steel. I don't think we need to go into details of types of Carabiner in these definitions - though I suppose one could mention Revolver screwgate carabiners which can be used as part of a pulley system.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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CARABINER - (or Karabiner): An oval, pear, or D-shaped link of lightweight aluminum (or steel alloy for heavy duty versions) that serves as the climber's all-purpose connector. Guides will use it to connect a rope to a client's harness (see Harness or Climbing Harness) or it may connect a belay to a rope or a pulley. A screw-gate Carabiner can be locked by using a screw thread and are typically, but not always, higher load rated. A Snap-Gate, or more lightweight Wire-Gate carabiner cannot be locked.
Heavy duty types of carabiner, able to sustain multiple forces over wider angles are known as HMS Carabiners and are marked "HMS" or simply with an "H" as shown in the diagram below. The name HMS derives From the German term for Munter hitch belay: 'Halbmastwurfsicherung' and is used to describe a larger screwgate suitable for belaying. They are designed to be under load almost 100% during use through those axis shown by the black arrows.
A Wire-Gate, aka Snap-gate carabiner is more lightweight and cannot be locked. Designed to be loaded at all times or by shock through the Axis shown here by the black arrow. Note, there is no stamp to define type as circled here in green.
HARNESS - or Climbing Harness. Used by climbers and issued to clients by ski guides if skiing on glaciers with cravasse danger or short pitches of extreme exposure descending very steep slopes. Used to connect a climber, walker or skier to a rope, usually via a Carabiner. A strap around the waist is attached to two others passing around the base of the buttocks and up between the legs, joining together to be attached to the waist strap at the front (this junction is the normal place for attachments).
CLIMBING HARNESS - See Harness
PRUSIK - A loop of thin cord, itself looped several times around a thicker rope. Used by climbers to attach themselves or anything else to a rope via a carabiner in such a way that it can be slid along the rope but, if weight is put on it, it locks in place through friction. Also verb: to climb up a rope using 2 prusiks alternately, one attached to the climbers harness, the other to a loop to support his/her foot.
CROSS COUNTRY SKIING TERMS
Classic Technique - the old method of Cross Country skiing whereby when slides along with the feet parallel. Normally used in machine formed groves. Uses double chambered skis and a free heel binding.
Double Chambered Skis - to allow a "wax pocket" in which to put Grip Wax or Fish scales. When pressure is applied to the ski it bends it so that the centre area contacts with the snow and grips, allowing propulsion. When the pressure is removed the centre area is raised from the ground allowing the ski to slide forward easily.
Double Poling - propelling oneself using just the arms. Normally used when travelling fast ie downhill or by racers.
Double pole with kick - as double poling but with a single leg kick on the recovery movement of the arms.
Diagonal Stride - propulsion method used by classical skier in which the left leg and right arm are used to push, then the right leg and left arm.
Fish scales - pattern like fish scales to stop the ski sliding back. Used on "waxless skis"
Grip Wax - aka Kick Wax, placed in the centre of the ski to stick to the snow. Used in place of Fish Scales.
Glide Wax - used elsewhere on the skis, similar to wax used on Alpine skis.
Kick Wax - See Grip Wax
Skating technique - the more modern method of xc skiing. Unsurprisingly it looks rather like skating. Using single cambered skis and a fixed heel binding.
STOKED - adjective - to be "stoked" is to be completely and intensely enthusiastic, exhilirated, or excited about something. those who are stoked all of the time know this; being stoked is the epitome of all being. when one is stoked, there is no limit to what one can do.
MOUNTAIN GUIDE QUALIFICATION "LEVELS"
TBD
Last edited by You'll need to Register first of course. on Tue 7-10-08 10:34; edited 3 times in total
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Thanks for all the contributions, are these any good? I have edited a few
Special thanks to HURTLE who reviewed the full listing and made lots of small improvements to ensure everything was clear and correct.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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skimottaret, please distinguish carabiner from maillon rapide more cleanly. And yes, I'm laffing with ya on the whole climbing gear thing.
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Well, I didn't know the HMS was the same as a screwgate - I thought it was just one type of it, which was why I didn't add it (but I may be wrong).
And the snapgate looks rather different from my wiregate - much more substantial (I've not seen one before). But I suppose they must both be unlockable types of Carabiner.
skimottaret, yes, which was why I wondered how far we wantede to go into ski mountaineering and crevasse rescue - without which a prusik is unnecessary.
maillon rapide? I give up.
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FAQ
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a German battleship
(Your post crossed with my PM, btw.)