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Treating/removing rust (?) on edges of snowboard?

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Hey guys,

Beginner here. My board (only used for about 15 hours of snowboarding in a snowdome so far) has got what looks like rust on the metal edges, which I can't explain given I've not used it much so far.

Any tips on how I get rid of it? Pics below




snow conditions     
 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
1. It’s not an issue
2. It’ll self clean with use
3. See 1.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
you can clean it if you wish. Edges should then re-passivate assuming its stainless steel.
In Brewing I use Barkeepers friend (You can find it at some of the larger Tesco, Morrsions, etc. or Amazon/Ebay - its not expensive) to clean my stainless steel brew gear - inc nik's where the protective oxide has scratched & rust develops.
Once clean, the steel will naturally form a new protective oxide barrier, so wont rust again.

Also, maybe you want to investigate in getting your edges tuned if you are overly worried.
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@karansaraf, You can clean and prevent/remove initial light rust on edges by giving the edges a rub over with a gummi stone. You can buy them from most ski shops, or from fellow snowHead spyderjon at the Piste Office, who also sells a range of other edge maintenance tools (as well as giving excellent advice or even tuition in edge maintenance, and waxing if you're interested): https://www.thepisteoffice.com/index.php/the-piste-office-store/edge-tools/deburring-diamond-files-stones.html Smile
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Mr.Egg wrote:
you can clean it if you wish. Edges should then re-passivate assuming its stainless steel.


If it was manufactured of "stainless steel" it wouldn't have corroded Very Happy

It's more like a high carbon steel chef's knife which allows it to be sharpened and fulfil it's function of giving the best performance to the board.

That example is not really a problem as already said, it will clean up in use.

But if corrosion propagates more severely and travels down further into the structure it can't be corrected, extreme example will have the corrosion pushing surrounding material away resulting in structure failure.

Ultimately it should be protected before you store it for best long term keeping.
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Quote:

Edges should then re-passivate assuming its stainless steel.

I never realised that snowboards had stainless steel edges. Since my skis' edges rust if I pack the skis away wet I think they are mild steel. If that happens then I file the rust off
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
They dont !
Although the Burton T6 did .
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Yeah, I'd like to clean/remove it because (1) I want to prevent spreading further (2) I'm thinking that I might actually go with a different board and want to make this one look cosmetically as good as I can for resale.

I have a Dakine tuning kit which comes with a file, 90/88 degree edge tuner and gummy stone (at least I think it's a gummy stone? pic below - please let me know if I'm wrong).

So basically I just rub the gummy stone over the edges?

What's the difference between a diamond stone and gummy stone and what different purposes do they serve? A guide on edge tuning would be much appreciated.



A couple of you guys mentioned tuning in order to protect/prevent this happening again. How does edge tuning (sharpening the edge) prevent rust?




Last edited by After all it is free Go on u know u want to! on Mon 19-08-19 19:02; edited 1 time in total
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
The issue is you dont dry the board off so the rockwell hardened steel edges will surface rust, they are not stainless ..
Also from possibly sitting in a damp wet board bag surface rust starts very quickly .

When left a long time in damp conds the rust will pit the steel and also over a very long time gets down between the ptex and steel edge and stains the base ptex a sht brown colour .

If your not using the brd soon which would remove surface marks then "you could" use a new scotchbrite green pad ...dry ....the Diy trick is not rolling it over the outer sharp edge which can even happen with a soft Gummi stone .

The best diy advice is as suggested above on the piste office site using soft or hard gummi blocks .
They are kind of like pencil rubbers with sand in them in hard and soft grades and make short work of surface rust

The diy skill is in not rolling the Gummi over and blunting the sharp edge but for recreational use or dome use its highly likely that its not exactly critical anyway .
Nevertheless it pays to start diy servicing with the correct procedure .....then one can deviate from that correct procedure how ever they like or wrongly believe .

Remember ....the piste office info is right on point and a high percentage of recreationals havent a clue which includes some youtube and even resort service centres.
This is why it pays to read and study Jons site also some american product sites are good too as they offer another perspective on the same outcome .
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 Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Yes I used to wipe the board and bindings with a towel then leave it in the bag. I've stopped doing this now, and leave it to dry in the bathtub before putting in the bag 24 hours later. Just need to fix what's there already and I should be golden. I also plan on learning how to tuning my edges before I go out to a resort next season.
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Gummi stone, or 000 wire wool with 'Easi Cut diamond fluid'. Just rub gently.

https://www.thepisteoffice.com/index.php/the-piste-office-store/edge-tools/deburring-diamond-files-stones/easicut-diamond-fluid-150ml-detail.html
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Always have a Gummi stone with you when snowboarding. It'll take off the rust and any burs. A diamond stone or file normally is harder and used for redefining the angles/ bevel. You can buy a sharpening stone from the pound shop for quid.
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
@karansaraf, it might be best not to store the board in a bag, as this traps whatever moisture is in the air, and doesn't allow air to circulate which helps prevent rust from developing. At the very least, leave the bag completely open. The best solution is to coat the edges with wax which will protect them from the moisture in the air. The existing rust won't spread but moist air will cause more to form.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Edges are alloy steel, hardened then tempered in the manufacturing process allowing them to have the compromise qualities that most products in the real world to perform as designed.

By adjusting the alloy content they could be made more 'rust-resistant' but I doubt a full 'Stainless' steel product, such as 18/8 or similar, could give the same compromise of hardness, toughness and flexibility ....... in either case I doubt the bean counters would allow it.

karansaraf wrote:
Yeah, I'd like to clean/remove it because ....... I'm thinking that I might actually go with a different board and want to make this one look cosmetically as good as I can for resale.


Firstly ....... you could do more harm than good, 'a little knowledge' and all that.

Secondly ...... it would be a lot more honest to let any prospective buyer be aware or deal with the 'issue', which as others have said it's not, than potentially creating a bigger one as above.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Edges will rust in a few hours if you load a bag with a wet board.
The easiest way to prevent it is to get a stick of old wax and rub it along all the edge.
If you have rust, I'd get rid of it quickly. It's not really an "issue" if it's just a bit of surface rust.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
I used lip salve on my edges last year, worked perfectly.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
I agree with @under a new name, just leave it.

If you are desperate to clean it for resale, rub the edges down with a damp kitchen sponge that should do the trick.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
The OP is correct in wanting a clean polished base and perhaps? edges to maximise the boards sale as the buyers worry about obvious silly things that dont matter on bases in practice.

They will end up getting some butcher in resort to service it anyway .

A Gummy block really works well they are quick too but if you wish to wait on a later bulk service kit purchase then you could use a bit of light grit wet and dry with a squirty water bottle.
Dont be in a hurry doing it or sand over the sharp steel edge its not hard to figure out how with a folded bit of wet/dry and water
That Dakine kit is aggressive I wouldnt use it for this .

In this case the rust is pretty light but when alot of rust exists the act of Diy removing rust can stain light coloured bases along or around the steel edge.
Solvent wont remove this stained rust shaded area either on a light colour base the solvent helps but not 100% .
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The board's done for - I'll pay you a tenner to ship to me and I'll get rid wink
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Best way to get rid of the rust is to ride it. Couple of runs and all good.
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Not sure how cleaning/scraping marks it can be considered being "dishonest" Laughing

And yeah it's worth optimising it (waxing/tuning/cleaning) before resale because people will literally use any trivial reason to want to pay less for something, even if it's something that can be scraped off and the edges look new again.

Tried a gummi stone on the edges without touching the base so as to avoid scratching it, but that didn't work too well. I've actually just gone over all the edges with the soft scouring pad that came with the Dakine tuning kit and that seems to have taken care of about 95% of it, so I'm happy. Will be riding it next week for a couple of hours, so should be all good by then.

If nothing else, you guys have taught a noob how to better look after his board, by not leaving it in the bag after use, even after wiping down with a towel, so thanks very much.


I should be able to get back at least what I paid for it. I got >40% off in the end of season sale and it's only been ridden for less than 20 hours, and I can see "demo" boards on ebay going for about what I paid for it. Prices are always so high in the pre-season so should be all good!
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