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DIY binding mounting

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
So, in response to a question earlier, I thought we could benefit from a thread devoted to mounting bindings.
I've been fitting bindings for 30 years, first in a ski shop in Zermatt, in the shop mostly with jigs, but sometimes without, since leaving I've always used paper templates.
Most shops in resort nowadays have the necessary mounting jigs and a good proportion in the UK as well, but for those who can't access these, or want to DIY I'll put together some resources here Very Happy
Obviously you'll need a template, pretty much all bindings are out there, just Google "xxx binding paper template"
Or, if you're lucky, your bindings came with a template in the box.

Wildsnow have most of the touring templates here:
https://www.wildsnow.com/backcountry-skiing-search/?cx=partner-pub-8093284038752434%3Ayxtlw7-4zut&cof=FORID%3A11&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=templates&sa=Search

Binding Freedom also have most of the popular Alpine models here:
https://www.bindingfreedom.com/paper-tempaltes/

Note, you'll need a few things too:
1/ A reasonable ability to measure, drill and screw things
2/ A couple of step drills, 3,6mm x 9mm for skis without a metal reinforcing plate in the binding mount area and 4,1 x 9mm for metal reinforced skis (and I think carbon skis) If mounting junior skis then a 3,5mm x 7mm is required as these are generally shallower underfoot
3/ Waterproof wood glue, binding glue or epoxy
4/ Binding screw tap for metal reinforced skis
5/ Countersink bit
6/ Your best #3 Posidrive screwdriver/T20 for Dynafit bindings (never use a bit in a drill, too much torque)
7/ Centre punch

Contact Spyderjon at the Piste Office for binding tools:

https://thepisteoffice.com/index.php/the-piste-office-store/binding-mounting-tools.html

or Tognar:

https://www.tognar.com/binding_tools_boot_canting_glue_ski_snowboard.html

You can get away with a depth collar on an ordinary drill bit, but you must be absolutely sure it doesn't slip for obvious reasons!!!

If you're in the slightest bit unsure of your abilities, then (and maybe always) do a trial mount first on a piece of wood to test your work!

When using the paper templates, there's normally a scale printed to check the printer scaling is correct, don't miss this step.

There's plenty of advice out there on this, not all of it perfect!

Naturally any additions/corrections welcomed Very Happy

Ken
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
KenX wrote:


If you're in the slightest bit unsure of your abilities, then (and maybe always) do a trial mount first on a piece of wood to test your work!



Best tip ever Very Happy
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Mounted my first pair last year, when I swapped Marker Schizo bindings for some Beast 14s touring bindings. Bought the bindings and drill bits from Jon at The Piste Office, and with much help and a template from Jon on avoiding hole clashes gave it a go. First test mounted on a piece of wood, which I’d highly advise if you don’t do this often. It took quite a long time as I checked, double checked, triple checked the hole placement. But great result!

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 You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
Mounted a second pair the other day - bought my son some Bent Chelter BC skis, and because I don’t know what boot size he’ll be and hope they might last more than one season, I bought some Atomic Warden 11 demo bindings (wasn’t too easy to find demo bindings with 95mm+ brakes). Again test mounted on a piece of wood. The paper template I found online for Warden bindings was perfect for the toe, and position of rear holes on the heel gave the correct length (and boot centre placement versus my imaginary recommended line on my piece of wood), but the hole pattern on the heel wasn’t correct. I marked up the holes on the skis, but didn’t double check the hole positions by laying the binding over them. Doh. As a result the holes were a mm or two out, which made getting the screws in very difficult! Made a bit of a pigs ear out of the first one, but got it screwed down super solid in the end. Learned my lessons for the second ski.




It’s very satisfying to mount your own skis.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Have been doing my own mounts for about 10 years now so a few hints below from my experience, adding to above

Getting the centre line right is vital, measure from the edges not the top sheet, sloping sidewalls can make it rather wonky, I have a little draper analogue caliper that works well.

The boot centre mark on a pair of skis is often out, check, measure from the tip

As said above always check the scale on a paper template, I have a selection of old wooden bed slats from an old bunk bed to do test mounts on. If I have not used the template before I always do a test mount, screw the bindings on and put the boot in checking boot centre and forward pressure is ok. For example I have 4 different set ups for Rossi fks. 2 jigs of different ages, 1 plastic sticky one that came with a pair of new bindings and a paper template, they are all slightly different as far as boot centre and forward pressure set up is concerned.

Watch for the hole volcanoing when you screw on the bindings, I always countersink the holes very slightly, the proper drill bits do this anyway,

I purchased a little screwdriver type torque wrench that does the 4nm, don't over tighten the screws

Hope that is. Useful ? If I think of anything else will post it

Thread should be a sticky as kenx suggested, as it could be a superb resource, epicski used to be great, tgr is as well if you can ignore the rudeness!!


Last edited by Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. on Mon 24-12-18 13:11; edited 1 time in total
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 You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
Re volcanoing, screw the screws in halfway, without the binding, then remove them. Use countersink to remove the volcano, then fit for real (man)
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
@KenX, Thank you Very Happy
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Zorrac wrote:


Thread should be a sticky as kenx suggested


Done
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 You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
Always check after mounting for any gaps under the bindings, if in doubt, remove and sort the problem, don't be tempted to tighten "a tad more" as it will almost certainly strip the thread........
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 Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
When fitting tech bindings, it's really important to get the heel centred in the rear pins, best way (assuming everything's mounted right!) is to find a combination of front binding holes which centres the binding, there'll always be a pair which fit better than others, while you drop the boot heel into the (mounted) heel binding, tighten those first, then snug down the other two


Last edited by Ski the Net with snowHeads on Mon 24-12-18 15:08; edited 1 time in total
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 snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
KenX wrote:
When fitting tech bindings, it's really important to get the heel centred in the rear pins, best way (assuming everything's mounted right!) is to find a combination of front binding holes which centres the binding, there'll always be a pair which fit better than others, tighten those first, then snug down the other two

Amateur rolling eyes Laughing

There's a proper technique for mounting a tech binding so that the toe is in line with the heel thus enabling the heel pins to slot straight in to the insert in the boot heel and to also avoid the boot tracking off line during skinning:

- Mount the heel
- Partially install all four screws so the toe binding is attached but will moved around a mm or two in any direction.
- Install the boot in to the toe binding and lower the boot until the boot heel sits on the pins, ie the pins go up the 'funnels' each side of the heel insert. There's no need to fully click the boot in to the heel binding
- With one had putting downward pressure on the boot cuff, tighten the front two toe screws which are accessible in front of the boot toe
- Carefully remove the boot from the toe binding and the tighten the two rear toe screws
- Reinstall the boot in to the toe binding and check the heel drops straight down on to/in line with the pins (which it will if you do the above right)

That'll be £20 please!
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
@spyderjon, basically the same Very Happy
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Oh, and buy a bag of the orange rubber rings for Kilner jars for a quid or so, perfect for holding the brakes up, good for ski tuning too
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Quote:

Getting the centre line right is vital, measure from the edges not the top sheet......I have a little draper analogue caliper that works well.
2 set-squares against each edge (one either side) is another easy way to accurately locate the centre
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
geoffers wrote:
Quote:

Getting the centre line right is vital, measure from the edges not the top sheet......I have a little draper analogue caliper that works well.
2 set-squares against each edge (one either side) is another easy way to accurately locate the centre

Or the folder paper trick
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
To centre a drill over existing holes when re-drilling for qk-inserts I scribed some cross-hairs on some clear plastic which I could stick to the ski, then centre the bit on the cross rather than hope that centring over the hole was accurate
Existing hole would probably have self-centred the bit, but this made sure...
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Finding the centre line is probably the most difficult part. I now print off a couple of paper tape measures with a mm scale. Tape them onto the ski clear of where the mounting will go after taping down a length of masking tape down the centre of the ski.
One end on a convenient clear "tens" marking on one steel edge, and the other end does the measuring on the opposite edge. Then simple to work out where the centre is to the nearest say 0.2mm. Even if the tape is at a slight angle across the ski, the centre will still be at half the measurement.
Camping shops sell tent peg rubber bands approx 115mm long - excellent to hold brakes.
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