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Bindings - I think I f@£#*d up

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
So I bought a second hand pair of skis on fleebay...
My school boy error was not the buying of the skis on eBay it was not reading what they were drilled too for the BSL rolling eyes
I’ve had to bring them right out as far than they go and they just fit and when I say just it is very very tight.
Is this healthy or am I going to go through the pantomime of having them redrilled ?
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
What does the forward pressure indicator show? Also you have the problem of finding a tech to remount them if they are old enough to be out of warranty.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Removing the toe (or/and heel), drilling a few holes 15mm further along ski (just use existing holes as guide), and remounting doesn’t take much more skill than putting together an ikea table. I.e. well within capability of average person who owns a cordless drill and a screwdriver. Don’t need templates, jigs, or even a special drill (if you’re careful).
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As @kerb said , +1 for self mounting : just fill the existing holes with epoxy (or get some proper plugs from John ) then as above: new holes not less than 10mm will be fine - a bit of PVA wood glue (or epoxy) in the new screw holes to seal them and you're sorted.

Obviously don't drill too deep, but also don't drill too shallow or you'll cause a bump to appear on the base when screwing the bindings down (from bitter experience Smile )
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Typically 9mm deep as I recall. Wrapping a bit of masking tape around the drill bit at 9mm will act as a depth guide. Just be aware the tape may gradually slide up the bit as you drill each subsequent hole - which is how I know you can often get away with drilling a couple of mm deeper than recommended Embarassed

So quick check that tape hasn't moved in between each hole is good idea.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
@Dave of the Marmottes, after a second look today they are set too short, off they will have to come! Shocked

@kerb, @geoffers, After a lot of internet research and many a youtube tutorial watched I have decided to jump in! Cautiously but fingers crossed it goes well... only one way to learn Toofy Grin
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
@kerb, for that very reason when I'm drilling fixed depth holes at work with a hand drill (pillar drill has a user adjustable limit) I tape over the amount of depth I want to use, and then spray paint the whole thing and then remove the tape. Paint doesn't move Cool
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@Samc12, Couple of extra things I find useful...
pillar drill is well worth using if you've got one, but OK without
punch the centre of the hole with a punch (I use a sharpened masonary nail) before drilling, as that helps locate/guide the drill
Tippex (typewriter correction fluid) is great for marking out the hole centres - nice thick white line you can then pencil mark the centre on
Generally use a 4.1mm bit & Tap if ski has metal topsheet, otherwise use a 3.6mm bit (often says which drill size to use on ski topsheet)
I used to grind down the drill so only the required amount stuck out of the chuck to prevent over/under drilling (have now invested in proper ski drills)

Good luck - it's not rocket science Toofy Grin
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
@Samc12, ...hmmmm....wee bit of misalignment and the performance of the bindings changes a lot. it's not a surprise that jigs are recommended and used to mount and re-mount bindings - really, getting them professionally remounted is not a great expense.
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