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Sir, Sir....Am I an Intermidiot yet???

 Poster: A snowHead
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skimottaret, No doubt it will come as a bit of a shock if I do go up to 130 from a well worn 80. But the majority of folk I've skied with, who are a similar weight & build to myself are ussually in 130's. I think I ski quite hard & quite often,(for a late Intermidiot) so think that I will adapt quite quickly to a higher flex boot, a bit like with the Head Magnum skis. Does that sound naive? I cant afford to creap up the flex rating. The investment in new boots, liners & fitting is I hope a once every 5 year type outlay. I must admit I rarely ski with my boots undone intentionally. I am a bit cowardly in that respect, as I dont feel that I have the skill to remain balanced on the footbed alone. I know I bully my skis a lot of the time and think I'd come-a-cropper without them cranked up. Saying that I have sometimes arrived at the bottom & then been surprised that Id forgotten to close the clips, its a psych thing I think. I want to get em broken in n bedded down before this season. I was discussing this with Paul recently at Hemel, but ultimately I'll be relying on the expertese of Colin the Bootfitter to come up with the right prescription.


sarah, my 80 flex with packed out liners are causing a "fluidy type mass/lump to form on the front of my ankle tendon, right where the crease forms when I overflex my anlles. The soft boots allow this. I may have been hanging on the fronts too long too much. This plus the heel lift that Im constantly fighting (ouch!) Has inspired me to find the £ for new boots/fitting
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Right. You have only yourselves to blame for this Toofy Grin
I have previously deliberately avoided asking this question for fear of looking stupid Embarassed but I just have to know....

I (think I) understand the need to use the front of the shin to transfer some force into the ski but why does it matter whether the boot flexes at the ankle or not, or by how much. What difference does the amount of ankle flex make to the action on (or perhaps the reaction of) the ski?
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Performance and competition aside, my interpretation is that boot flex acts as a damper to allow for changes in terrain n surface so that the loads aren't immediately transferred into the body. It also acts as kind of exoskeleton supporting the ankle joint. As a more proficient skier I'd imagine you absorb these forces throughout your posture and rely less on the boot flex to do this for you.
Now we both look stupid wink
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franzClammer, not sure you've got me....if they're too soft you can't 'hang' on them, my soft ones I feel like I'm just going right over them, my stiffer ones I can flex to a 'stop' and then I can 'hang' on them and not go any further, I can 'rest' with my weight on my shins if you get me. What I want to know is which should it be like?

Red Leon, no worries ask away Toofy Grin Sure someone knowledgable will be here to help us soon Laughing
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sarah, Cacciatore, franz Clammer, Independent of whether you're a boy / girl, large or small etc. it's my opinion that you need a user variable flex facility to allow tuning to suit the terrain you wish to have the greatest type of feedback / response or reaction. Something like ( for me ) 110 +20 /- 10. Industry for 2015 winter is producing more boots with flex adjustment facility. I'm particularly interested in the new Atomic Hawx 2.0 120 flex. Sadly i don't know if the flex is +/- or only just + ( which is more likely) and the amount of flex is likely to be quite limited. Another adjustment facility is forward lean adjustment ( in this case 13/15/17 degrees). Apparently due to full rocker shapes, skiers need to be more centered (upright) and less tilting forward than was previously advised for traditional camber shape skis.
Just like skis, it's impossible to have just one perfect pair for all ski conditions and at all speeds.
Whether we really need then or not (just like skis), Industry will be inventing a reason to encourage a purchase.


Last edited by Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. on Thu 31-07-14 12:48; edited 1 time in total
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franzClammer, That is fine as a description, but...

Opening and closing the ankle joint will change where you apply pressure to the ski, as an instructor you need to be able to demonstrate what you are doing to a trainee.

A friend was picked up on his L1 for not demonstrating enough ankle flex when doing Central Theme stuff in 160 flex race boots. He was skiing fine, it just wasn't obvious to someone else how he was doing it.
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rjs, food for thought, many thanks Smile
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my boots

http://youtube.com/v/aJJbdn-TOds
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Did you get those boots to match the henry hoover ? Wink
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I am not saying that you should go up in stages when changing boots but be aware they will take some time to get used to and to drive well... You are overpowering your 80 flex boots now so a stiffer boot would suit you but you tend to overflex the knee joint and lock out your ankle so get some new boots AND learn how to open and close your ankle joint at the appropriate time snowHead
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I am not saying that you should go up in stages when changing boots but be aware they will take some time to get used to and to drive well... You are overpowering your 80 flex boots now so a stiffer boot would suit you but you tend to overflex the knee joint and lock out your ankle so get some new boots AND learn how to open and close your ankle joint at the appropriate time snowHead
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Personally don't see why a rec skier doing a range if skiing needs to be in more than a 110-120 boot. Exceptions for racers, the very heavy etc but surely the days of driving everything off a fully loaded tongue are gone and lateral transmission is what really counts. Bonuses - far more comfortable for hike, variable crunk, fine balance in pow etc


If you'll humour me being blunt the general theme of this thread seems to be your planning for the skier you'd like to be rather than where you are at. Why not use stuff that will help you now then when you get where you're going you'll have a greater context to make the choice for then.(if you can resist hanging round the back of Ligety's bootroom hoping to snare a pair of his raceroom skis in the interim wink )
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franzClammer, Which boots you get is totally down to fit but be aware some boots have adjustable flex ( example head Raptors ). Now this is not via a dial or switch but by inserting extra bolts in the rear of the boot mine go from 140-150-160 but the model(s) below have the same adjustment at lower flex levels.

Others might be able to let you know of other race/semi race boots that have something similar.

Again these may not fit your foot shape at all but if one of these types of boots does then you get the ability to increase the flex over the next season if you are going to do a season without having the cost and the issues of wearing in a new boot.



130 flex is pretty stiff but also not all manufacturers 130 flex boots are the same I tried some Head 120 flex prior to ordering the raptors that felt stiffer than the Lange 130XT boots. lastly if the Fischer RC4 boots fit they are the only race boot I have tried that actually does not take 10 min per boot to get on and cause excruciating pain while taking off, due to the stiffness of the shell.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Red Leon wrote:
Please forgive my ignorance but...

Mike Pow wrote:

1. I don't teach the student to keep the upper body facing down the fall line. I teach them to stay square to the feet and skis.


Does that not necessarily lead to a complete loss of separation between upper & lower body? I thought separation - at least on short turns - was to be encouraged?


DB wrote:
Red Leon,
I was thinking that too, a bit like Jeff and Virgil of the Thunderbirds.


Dave of the Marmottes wrote:
I think he's just saying let separation come naturally rather than being forced.



This is my opinion and my method of teaching which goes against what most instructors teach.

Modern ski technology and shape allows the recreational skier to perform far more rounded turns - pivotted & carved - than was previously possible on the older model straighter skis.

With raised tips & tails the ability to pivot both skis is much easier and doesn't require the corkscrewing position of keeping the upper body facing down the fall line to get the skis around.

The turn starts with the feet and the upper body follows quickly afterwards. There is separation but it is minimal and natural as Dave of the Marmottes suggested.

By following the feet and looking in the direction of travel this creates a more natural and comfortable whole body balance to the slope and allows the geometry of the ski to perform to its optimal level.

When my students and I are skiing we like to see what's in front of us, especially when making turns on congested slopes and amongst the trees.
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Cacciatore wrote:
Out of curiosity, what do most of you L1/L2 have by way of boot flex.

I'm neither, patently, but have 110 flex on mine which I find provides sufficient (as in confidence) stiffness/flex balance for relatively fast and "dynamic" carving. Unless planning on racing, I can't personally see why one would opt for a much stiffer boot.


I ski in a pair of Dynafit TLT 5 Performance ski touring boots.

http://www.ski-willy.at/shop/product_info.php?products_id=6864&refID=geizhals


Fore / aft stiffness is approx. 95 compared with alpine boots.

But it is much stiffer than that laterally, which is where I want the performance in a boot.
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I ski in 130 flex Lange race boots with ZipFits which probably make them around 140. BUT; you may remember Franz that I do not do my toe clips up very often. I need to be able to move my angles in them at slow speeds.

Hooning around on my GS ski in the mountains 130's are just fine; inside I wish I could afford a pair of something softer for teaching! If I could; I'd probably have a pair of Lange 110's with Zips which probably equate to 120 flex.
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Just one hour of official shadowing left to do for L1 Very Happy
Boot fitter appt booked for next month
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
franzClammer wrote:
Just one hour of official shadowing left to do for L1 Very Happy


What's taken you so long? Cool
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sarah wrote:
franzClammer wrote:
Just one hour of official shadowing left to do for L1 Very Happy


What's taken you so long? Cool



He spends most of his time on the computer editing the video's and being on here wink
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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sarah wrote:
franzClammer wrote:
Just one hour of official shadowing left to do for L1 Very Happy


What's taken you so long? Cool

I'm probly too fussy over who I shadow rolling eyes
Plus I'm still pretty focused on my own personal performance
Personally I don't think 35hrs is enough shadowing time for L1 for me, certainly not if spread over several months.
I'll probly just get my L1 badge & let the shadowing roll over into the 70 reqd for L2.
I'm hoping to get some shadowing in resort this season. So I've not felt the need to rush it.
Sarah have you completed your hours?
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franzClammer, yes all done and dusted a few weeks ago, badged and licensed now. I agree with you that 35 is not enough, I have over 60 now (though some of that was pre-course) and will continue to get more. Don't be too fussy, you need to shadow a wide range of instructors to see a wide range of teaching styles, methods, situation handling etc also try to get experience of different lesson types.
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Quote:

Don't be too fussy, you need to shadow a wide range of instructors to see a wide range of teaching styles, methods, situation handling etc also try to get experience of different lesson types

Sounds like very good advice to me.
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pam w wrote:
Quote:

Don't be too fussy, you need to shadow a wide range of instructors to see a wide range of teaching styles, methods, situation handling etc also try to get experience of different lesson types

Sounds like very good advice to me.

I agree variety is good, there are a couple of Instructors I've yet to have the opportunity to shadow, the clients/levels have varied considerably as you can imagine during the holidays
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At least you are consistent and can do it with both left and right turns. Toofy Grin

What my untrained eyes see -

Slight stem on both turns
Not getting the edge on the outside ski early enough in the turn
Swishing the heels out
Not a simultaneous edge angle change on both skis = unstable platform
Looks like the weight falls onto the tail end of the inside ski in both cases and shortly after you rear end hits the snow.

You could try ............

One legged skiing on the ínside ski

When using both skis, edge and then pressure the outside ski - bend the ski at the top of the turn rather than skid and point.

Sucking the inside ski up while mainting the correct angle to match the outside ski - try not to push the inside ski Forward / back or skid it through the turn

Large carved turns on flat (blue) terrain until you are leaving two grooves in the snow. Once you can do this aim to shorten the turns. Then advance to slightly steeper terrain. i.e. Rome wasn't built in a day - don't rush it, perfect it.
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DB wrote:
Red Leon,
I was thinking that too, a bit like Jeff and Virgil of the Thunderbirds.


More robotic than puppet like initially. My recollections of the 70s & 80s puppets had them waving their hands arround like conductors.

Quietening down the hands requires a relaxed discipline and to start with most students overegg this, which may look robotic to observers.

Over time the hand, arm and upper body movements relax and move in sync with the lower body, albeit slightly delayed.


Last edited by snowHeads are a friendly bunch. on Tue 5-08-14 8:01; edited 1 time in total
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
DB wrote:

You could try ............

One legged skiing on the ínside ski


Genuine question, not a troll.

With franzClammer having difficulty balancing early enough and with the appropriate amount of weight & pressure on the downhill ski why have you and others recommended he work on balancing on the uphill (inside) ski in isolation?


Last edited by And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports. on Tue 5-08-14 9:39; edited 1 time in total
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+1 I'd like to know too why people think inside ski exercises will help franzClammer.

For me it's simpler, I think franzClammer you are leaning in too much when the gradient of the slope doesn't require it. That coupled with your stance and not being balanced on the outside ski means you are falling inwards. I could be wrong though just my opinion Smile
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Quote:
you are leaning in too much when the gradient of the slope doesn't require it


Should that be 'when the rate of turn does not require it' or put another way 'when the forces generated by the turn do not require it'?
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cad99uk, yes, thanks, basically he's leaning too much when he doesn't need to.
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DB, haha, that was my exact first thought last night... at least he's symmetrical.
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Mike Pow wrote:
DB wrote:

You could try ............

One legged skiing on the ínside ski


Genuine question, not a troll.

With franzClammer having difficulty balancing early enough and with the appropriate amount of weight & pressure on the downhill ski why have you and others recommended he work on balancing on the uphill (inside) ski in isolation?


To try and sort out the steming and stop the inside ski messing up the turn. The other things I suggested he might try were to help with the other issues.

I don't see him falling purely into the turn but slightly back at the same time. His skis don't break away directly to the side i.e @ 3 and 9 o clock but more @ 2 and 10 o clock.

One turn should flow into the other but if your inside ski isn't set up right it's difficult to get the next turn started and shift the weight from one ski to the other. This could be why Franz gets in a few turns and then unexpectedly falls over.
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is the stemming caused by the inside leg ?
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I see the inside ski knocking the outside one further out.
This is caused by:
Too much weight on the inside ski;
Wrong direction of inside ski.

Try to focus on 'phantom' edging of the inside ski to keep the weight light and the direction parallel to the outside one.
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FC if you look at the turn around 29-33 sec you are trying to engage the new edge ( left ski ) too early while you are still on the right ski inside edge and going across the fall line as has been said above not a simultaneous edge change resulting in the stem but changing edge too soon. You are therefore pushing your right leg in this turn into the left ski which is helping to disengage the edge of the left ski towards the tip just as you should be fully committing to that edge for the new turn, this results in the left ski skidding and moving away from you resulting in the fall, also why it looks like you are backseat as only the tail of the left ski is trying to hold an edge. This may be a very slight hesitation/confidence issue committing to the fall line as it is not every turn, ( nothing to worry about you have progressed a very long way in a short time even the most confident skiers have moments ).

Solutions look at video's for learning to ski more dynamic/athletically, ski with all the weight on the turning ski ( even raise inside ski off the ground but not a javelin turn keep the tip more grounded and do not allow the skis to cross). Aim for a more positive pole plant to help initiate the turn.
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speed098, did no one ever teach you to KISS? wink
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altis wrote:
I see the inside ski knocking the outside one further out.
This is caused by:
Too much weight on the inside ski;
Wrong direction of inside ski.

Try to focus on 'phantom' edging of the inside ski to keep the weight light and the direction parallel to the outside one.


+1
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skimottaret wrote:
is the stemming caused by the inside leg ?


Could be, I see his inside leg throwing his whole skiing off. He's using it as a small crutch to try and maintain balance (as in a snow plough) rather than an aid to dynamic carving.

Franz eventually gets caught in the back seat and ends up with too much weight on the tail of the inside ski. One legged skiing on the inside ski (on easy terrain) could help Franz to stay out of the back seat and maintain a more balanced body position. Let his inside ski go with the flow rather than trip him up. This could help him to get rid of the stem, maintain more equal edge angles along with better balance over the outside ski.

Too much weight on the inside ski alone doesn't mean someone automatically falls over Toofy Grin


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DB, I think the biggest problem I see is that FC doesn't consistently use the first phase of the turn to get a strong platform he can balance on. On firm snow we mostly balance on our outside ski, so any drills which focus on the inside ski will, at best, be treating a symptom not the cause of the problems. That's not to say that inside ski drills aren't useful, but I think they are down the priority list for FC.
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