 Poster: A snowHead
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I enjoyed the other thread re Ski Maintenance and seek opinions on the following.
I have often lost P-Tex plugs in the large gauges from my ski bases, both when I've serviced them and when they've been machined - so I know it's not 100% my technique. 
My skis have more holes than Emmental cheese.
My question is whether the repairs hold better if I prepare the holes first. I suggest two possible ideas:
1) Cut scrapes into more regular shapes and make small holes larger or
2) Cutting slices around the holes to allow the molten repair sticks to fill and hopefully thread themselves into the existing base materials. Not sure if this is clear and I can't think of anything else to describe this technique, perhaps 'cutting a star shape with many points that allow the p-tex to flow and nit itself to the base'
Obviously I prepare the entire base, remove wax etc, before getting the repair sticks out.
These are my rock skis so I don't mind experimenting... your thoughts please.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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I usually use a ptex candle and use its heat to slightly warm the bases as I drip in the molten material, I've not yet had a ptex repair fall out
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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try this:
clean base - if you leave dirt or put wax in the hole, you have more chance of the repair failing
remove ptex 'strings'
using a sharp blade cut the ptex to the following shape:
base of ski
/__\
top of ski
this way there is more ptex behind the hole giving it a bit more resistance to falling out.
also try using Ptex repair powder - its better than sticks, as they are hard to keep carbon free which does make them more liable to failing. You can still get this from the shop just as you would sticks
trim extra, machine as necessary
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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My technique is pretty good, I'm trained in hand servicing and on Wintersteigers etc, I apply the P Tex in the same way as yourself D G Orf, I know I'm not the only person that suffers from this.
Although I 'only' weigh 80kgs due to the way I ski I'm prone to massive holes and they go back to the metal under sheet.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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parlor, Me too. Tried candles, Ptex guns etc... What works for Mrs Ski's skis is for me to do them every day....a waxed ski runs with less friction than a dry one, so gets damaged less. 
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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yeah, guess that training don't beat practise
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jonski2, good tip on cleaning the bases, too.
parlor, how wide are these holes? I find that anything more than about 8mm wide doesn't really hold well without the metalgrip ribbon.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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At present I have a nice long scratch, back to the base, approx 8mm wide and 60mm long! Nice. Looking at previous scars it appears they tend to be max 10mm (rare) but long. As I said, this pair of skis are trashed, they're becoming my rocks skis; one of them is delaminating and the core hasn't got much life left in it.
I clean the base with wax remover and then use white spirit or similar to clean the holes before I plug them.
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I will admit that I prefer to let my good friends at Francois Baud Sports in Morzine sort my skis. They use a gas fuelled iron, it has a plate about 3 cm square and they melt the p-tex in much like wax. I think for plugs they glue a strip in place and then use the iron to fill in aruond it. Practically invisible mending and absolutely rock proof afterwards. I'm sure you could buy a portable home version?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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parlor, with gouges that size you're better off whittling the ptex into a 'dutchman' then using epoxy or metalgrip to bond the repair back in.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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comprex, the Tognar Toolworks site is great. Need me some new toys...
Don't think I'll be buying a
BASE & EDGE MAGNIFIER
Inspecting and evaluating the condition of base material and edges...whether it's the base structure definition, the finish of steel edge surfaces, the presence of unwanted p-tex hairs or oxidation...is a skill that yields valuable information not easily available by other means. To that end, we offer this 5 power magnifier which folds compactly into a metal case when not in use. It's ideal for base and edge inspections, and doubles as a good hand lens for examining snow crystals too.
Inspecting and evaluating the condition of base material and edges...whether it's the base structure definition, the finish of steel edge surfaces, the presence of unwanted p-tex hairs or oxidation...is a skill that yields valuable information not easily available by other means. To that end, we offer this 5 power magnifier which folds compactly into a metal case when not in use. It's ideal for base and edge inspections, and doubles as a good hand lens for examining snow crystals too.
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| David Murdoch wrote: |
| I will admit that I prefer to let my good friends at Francois Baud Sports in Morzine sort my skis. They use a gas fuelled iron, it has a plate about 3 cm square and they melt the p-tex in much like wax. I think for plugs they glue a strip in place and then use the iron to fill in aruond it. Practically invisible mending and absolutely rock proof afterwards. I'm sure you could buy a portable home version? |
You can. The Kunzmann #3380 Base Doc c/w #3342 Ptex strips. http://www.kunzmann-skitools.de/gb/start.html
Look under 'Products' & 'Base Service Tools'.
Available from Ronnie at Kandie Imports (info@kandie-imports.com) for approx £45 & £5 respectively.
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You know it makes sense.
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Parlor,
also if you are gonna cut the holes back on themselves, get a wire brush/brillo pad or something and rough up the walls you've now created. Just the same way as you sand down before painting stuff or whatever, it does again help with the bond. Altenatively, use the scalpel/razor you've just caut with to lightly scratch the walls and give themtexture that way
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