Poster: A snowHead
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I crayoned on some wax the other day and it was great for about 1 minute then wore off.
is a hot wax worth doing? if so how long does wax last on dendix ?
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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in the old days I used to use wd40 slipped into my jacket pocket. Mind you, they weren't my skis !!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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What you need is some really hard wax, eg. CH4 or similar. Iron it on, and leave it there. It sohuld protect your bases for a good hour or two, depending on how aggressive you are. CH3 is even better, but costs alot more. CH4 can be bought in bulk from snowsports wales for a very good price compared to the likes of S&R
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Toko make a wax specifically for dry slope use. Never used it though.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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thanks all not too agressive just enough to keep me going faster than students
Spyderman, slightly off topic question but when i do my skis should i file/stone base first and then sides or other way around
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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skimottaret, Datawax Polar X for dryslope use, supplemented with Zardoz Notwax teflon overlay.
For initial edge setting do the base edge first. After that you shouldn't really be tuning you base edge at all, other than to remove any dings etc, otherwise you'll either over bevel it &/or create a 'high base' by lowering the base edge too much. All tuning should be done on your side edge & don't forget to remove the hanging burr when done.
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skimottaret wrote: |
I crayoned on some wax the other day and it was great for about 1 minute then wore off.
is a hot wax worth doing? if so how long does wax last on dendix ? |
You make a very good point.
There is emerging research to indicate that waxing skis is mostly a waste of time.
On snow, the wax scrubs off within just a few hundred meters and the sliding benefits are lost for the rest of the day.
The wax disappears even sooner on plastic.
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spyderjon, thanks i will order some polar x when back from proper skiing. On the tuning question i think i just need to get rid of a few base dings so will take it easy on the base edge. cheers
Spyderman, oops mixed you up with spyderjon on teh tuning question.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Whitegold, i see you are in positive mood as usual
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skimottaret,
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Spyderman, oops mixed you up with spyderjon on teh tuning question.
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No problem, I was just about to say the same thing.
Whitegold,
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There is emerging research to indicate that waxing skis is mostly a waste of time.
On snow, the wax scrubs off within just a few hundred meters and the sliding benefits are lost for the rest of the day.
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The ski base is porous, so absorbs the hot wax. the surplus is scraped off, then the base is brushed to reveal the base structure. the benefits are not lost within the first few hundred metres and should last for a couple of days.
Do you go out of your way to be annoying, or do you have to work at it?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Whitegold, Can't read it as don't subscribe. Be a sport and copy'n'paste it here!
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Whitegold,
It's from Dec14th 2005. 14 months later, still nobody believes them. Don't see the world cup racers going without wax. Wax is a generic term, most 'waxes' don't contain real wax.
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You know it makes sense.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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spyderjon, my mates don't call me Pikey Pete for nothing. BTW, Jon, if anybody asks you for recommendations for someone darn sarf to do some ski servicing, I'd be well made up if you could point them in my direction. I've just got a couple of brand new 9 inch discs for my angle grinder (a stone cutter and a metal grinder) so I'm all set for some base prep and edge tuning. I've just swept up all my wax scraping off the floor so if anybody wants their bases waxed I've got planty here. I can do block paving and tarmac work as well.
Whitegold, the wax that's important is the wax that soaks into the base of the ski. The wax you apply to the ski is supposed to be virtually completely scraped and brushed off the base anyway. The Economist is probably basing their story on some emerging research that by some idiot who thought that skis need to have a liberal coating of wax over the base, and observed that the liberal coating is down to a few microns thick after running down a slope. The worse thing to have on a ski base is a thick coating of wax. It slows the ski down and all sorts of crap gets stuck in it - bits of grit and so on.
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Poster: A snowHead
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petemillis, .
I fill a large bin bag per week with wax scrapings which I'd be pleased to send to you for 're-cycling' if you pay the postage.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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petemillis, the paper itself is here:
http://epubl.ltu.se/1402-1757/2006/03/LTU-LIC-0603-SE.pdf
take a very close look at the argument against Mantra 1 (page 9, 10) and notice that he never even considers surface tension, merely waves his hand about molecule size.
and, ironically, page 20 has a series of drop contact angle measurements.
"We have never observed any penetration of water", neither has a blind man.
then take a close look at the argument against Mantra 2
Notice he doesn't point out that any -lubrication- effect of the wax is unaccounted for, and that the slurry itself is actually self-lubricating.
Then look at the humidity conditions of Appendix B- Table 2. All over 59% humidity, i.e. situations where we already know to scrape off the surface excess.
sheesh.
Here's reading for you:
http://www.masterskier.com/article.asp?aid=227
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