 Poster: A snowHead
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On a whim once's wife and one thought it would be a good idea to try somewhere a bit different for skiing.
After a bit of airport and airline trawling I discovered a very convenient flights from Birmingham to Krakow. They were not cheep but they left on a Wednesday afternoon and returned on the Sunday evening. Just about ideal timing for a long weekend. My limited knowledge of geography had Krakow to the north of the Tatra mountains and I knew from friends that there was skiing in the Tatras. A quick look at a map threw up Zakopane. So we booked a hotel there and that is about as far as we have got.
The question is: has anyone skied Zakopane and has any experiences to share. We will need to hire skis and I assume need to get a shuttle bus to the slopes, which appear to be a couple miles out of town but is there anyting else we need to be aware of?
I would love to read other snowheads expeiences.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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I have not done that area, but I did investigate a few years ago! From what I could work out you need a central place to stay and then be prepared to drive/trasfer to ski areas. My understanding is that each ski area is quite small but that there are a number of them. I am, like johnE interested in anyones exeriences.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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My first ski trip was to Zakopane 4 years ago, mainly to see the ski jumping! The skiing is mainly out of town, though there are a couple of little slopes next to the ski jump. Otherwise, we went to Nosal for learning, then Gubolowka (I think) which was a bit longer. Harenda is more red and has night skiing. The main event is Kasprowy Weirch (sp!) which looks fun but we were not at that level yet (plus, no made snow up there so if it aint snowed, it's closed). We did a night skidoo trip as well, which was mild terror. There are other little areas as well, both in Poland and over the border. They all have sausage huts dotted around - a Polish sausage wrapped in bread and splurged with mustard and ketchup on a mountain is the best, goes well with a local beer.
Basically, you need someone who knows the slopes and where to go on the day. We got a local lady - Barbara - from Discover Zakopane to arrange everything for us - lift tickets, ski hire, lessons, and her dad drove us around to wherever we'd been sent that day! It was quite a relaxing way of doing things really, totally different from the usual. Might be worth considering, even if it's just to get you set up and helping with where is best, so you can drive yourself there? I just dropped her an email with what we were after, she made some suggestions, and sorted it. It's a total bonus having someone do things for you in Polish as well - I do speak a little, but couldn't deal with what was needed on a ski holiday, and there are fewer English speakers outside the main hotels and restaurants as you might think.
Zakopane itself is a fun town - don't be fooled by innocent looking groups of Polish people who offer you vodka, your night will end in waltzy folk dancing and stamping of feet after countless shots...  Do eat lots of pierogi and things covered in wild mushroom sauce.
Another thing. The bus from Krakow to Zakopane is bloody awful. The train is long but first class is cheap and it's much more civilised.
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| Quote: |
| Another thing. The bus from Krakow to Zakopane is bloody awful |
Ours certainly wasn't. Modern, direct and cheap. About 2hrs or so if I recall correctly??
It's about 6 years since we were there though. At that time you had to buy a cable car ticket in advance to get up to Kasprovy Wierch. The tickets were sold out for our two or three day visit so it was a no go for us. Not sure if the position is the same now with the cable car.
So we had to make do with Harenda, Nosal and Szymoskova (??? - not sure if last one is correct..). Szymoskova is just one fast chair and one run - nice restaurant at the top though.
All were tiny - but we just love skiing new places, however small. We bussed to the second and third places and got a cheap taxi to the first.
We had freah snow and loved the experience - Zakopane is very pleasant too. Rustic pubs and restaurants with folk musicians playing.
Definitely worth going if you're up for something different.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| mountainaddict wrote: |
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| Another thing. The bus from Krakow to Zakopane is bloody awful |
Ours certainly wasn't. Modern, direct and cheap. About 2hrs or so if I recall correctly?? |
Lucky you, ours was toilet-less, packed full of people and bags, and felt like it took forever (though I don't think it did). Must be down to the bus company, a lesson learned by me there!
I think the cable car situation is still the same, not sure if tour guides keep some up their sleeves?
I really love Zakopane, and Poland as a whole, so I hope the OP enjoys thoroughly!
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There are a couple of posters on here probably more knowledgeable than me, but I have been there quite a few times (my wife is from Krakow).
So firstly what sort of ability are you?
There is only really one place to go for longer Alpine style runs and that’s Kasprowy Wierch, although as with everywhere it’s not walkable from there.
Personally I prefer Białka Tatrzanska, as although it’s small but Alpine standards it’s all connected, modern and the most snow sure place around.
Have you booked accommodation yet?
Also I’d be inclined to just get a taxi directly from Krakow airport to Zakopane, it should cost around 500-600zl and will save a lot of time (about 1hr 30-45 mins depending on traffic).
If you decide to go via Krakow itself get the fast airport train to the centre and then the bus...do not get the train it takes forever!!!
Oh and if you like steak then definitely visit STEK towards the top of the Main Street in Zakopane, it puts most steak restaurants in a London to shame (but it’s so popular they won’t let you book)!
Away from skiing, there are a few sets of thermal baths around, but I’d vote for the ones near Bania hotel, again in Bialłka Tatrzanska.
Feel free to ask away any questions!
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I've been to zakopane many times. my missis is Polish and lives not too far from Zakopane
vjmera has about covered it. There's load to do in Zakopane and it's all reasonably priced. If I were you I'd hire a car.
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@vjmehra, We will get a taxi from the airport to our hotel, Foluszowy Potok, on the Wednesday night. We are planning to return to Krakow on the Saturday evening to have a look arounf the town. At the moment I am not sure how we will do this. Possibly another taxi.
Thank you about the advice about the thermal springs - do I need a bathing costume? Sadly I'm not a great steak lover, but do like a good steak tatare.
We are reasnoble skiers so looking for the more challenging skiing. Normally we will be looking for steep mogul fields but this is not why we are going to Zakopane we are really looking something very different from our normal haunts in the Tarrentaise.
Where do you reccomend getting good skis to rent?
@Mother hucker, I do not want to hire a car.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@vjmehra, We will get a taxi from the airport to our hotel, Foluszowy Potok, on the Wednesday night. We are planning to return to Krakow on the Saturday evening to have a look arounf the town. At the moment I am not sure how we will do this. Possibly another taxi.
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Going to Krakow, you could get a coach, it won't be significantly slower than a taxi as most of the roads are single carriageway anyway (so in traffic even cars can't easily overtake), or of course a taxi. I've taken the coach before and found it fine, its much, much quicker than the train and at least they have toilets which is good 
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Thank you about the advice about the thermal springs - do I need a bathing costume?
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If I recall correctly, in the SAUNARIUM section (https://www.termabania.pl/en/) you don't have to wear a costume and are not allowed to at all in the Saunas. However in the other zones you would have to wear a costume.
There is a shop on-site that sells costumes and related swimming stuff.
There's another one in Bukowina, which I don't think is quite as nice: http://www.termabukowina.pl/en/
There are others and you are very near the water park in Zakopane (although thats more child orientated, than spa focused).
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Sadly I'm not a great steak lover, but do like a good steak tatare.
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Luckily for you most good restaurants in Poland do excellent Steak Tartare (at a fraction of the price you'd pay here, but typically much better quality).
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We are reasnoble skiers so looking for the more challenging skiing. Normally we will be looking for steep mogul fields but this is not why we are going to Zakopane we are really looking something very different from our normal haunts in the Tarrentaise.
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You probably want to try here then: http://www.pkl.pl/kasprowy-wierch/trasy-narciarskie.html
Its in a national park and snow cannons are forbidden, so you are 100% reliant on natural snow cover, but its the highest peak around and should be good (but check first of course, it obviously has to close when coverage is poor).
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@Mother hucker, I do not want to hire a car.
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If you don't want to hire a car I would be tempted to say in order to keep it simple, spend some time here: https://bialkatatrzanska.pl/en/plan-of-the-resort
The snow coverage is likely to be the best as its one of the most modern in Poland and it has some more challenging runs (albeit short), don't get too panicked when you see the insane lift queues...they are always like that for the main blues at the start, once you get up there you can (generally) get onto the other other lifts with minimal (or no) queuing.
You can pre-buy a lift pass here (which is a bit cheaper): https://tatryski.pl/ however please note that although Tatry Ski gives you far better coverage than any other lift pass, it doesn't include any of the lifts in Zakopane itself.
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Where do you reccomend getting good skis to rent?
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I'm probably not the best person to ask on this front as I've taken my own snowboard the last few times and have just rented skis from the nearest shop whenever I've skiied!
They do have a few Intersport's dotted around, I seem to recall there is a large one right in the town centre, but looking at the map it seems to be just off the main street (which is odd as I could have sworn it was dead centre)!!
However expect to find ski selection a bit more limited than what you are used to...on the plus side...expect hire to cost a lot less!!
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@vjmehra, Thank you for all the useful information.
As to ski hire I remember going to Bansko in Bulgaria many years ago. Ski hire was from the back of a van and I was quite pleased to get a matched pair!
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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As to ski hire I remember going to Bansko in Bulgaria many years ago. Ski hire was from the back of a van and I was quite pleased to get a matched pair!
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Haha its not quite like that, there are loads of hire places, generally pretty decent equipment at a fraction of the usual cost, but you just may not quite have the selection you are used to.
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