How to organize 4 days in Chamonix

A snowHead

Hi,

I am doing 4 days of skiing in Chamonix at the beginning of February with my partner. We are both upper intermediate/lower advanced skiers and are looking for recommendations on how to organize our 4 days of skiing as i understand Chamonix is a bit disjointed in terms of resorts. We are not bringing a car.

1. Assuming the first day we will be warming up, how would you organize the 4 days (1 per mountain)?
2. What pass would you recommend for 4 days - Chamonix only or Mont Black full pass?
3. Is it worth just skiing in Chamonix or going over for a day to one of the other resorts (i.e. Courtmeyer)?
4. Read a lot about Vallée Blanche and am intrigued by it. I understand it has to be done with a guide - any recommendations? We would do with a shared group. Is ABS backpack/gear required? Is this something for advanced only skiiers or can intermediates enjoy it as well?
5. Any decent recommendations in terms of restaurants towns.

Merci!

A snowHead

Hi @pred02

I'd probably look to spend the first day at Brevent/Flegere, easiest to get to from central Cham plus enough to get your legs up to speed. From then on it really depends on what you are after, but I'd definitely do a day at Grand Montets just to experience it, especially if you get the pass which covers the top bin of the cable car, its on a scale you don't really see much else anywhere in the alps.

Le Tour is nice especially runs off the back down towards Vallorcine but it can be really cold and windy at the top of the valley. Les Houches is ok if visibility is really bad or the other areas are closed down to high avalanche risk but the terrain is pretty mellow.

I'd personally stick with the Chamonix valley areas instead of heading through to Courmayeur, even though its great, if you've only got 4 days and no transport I'd save it for another visit; good reason to go back too.

Vallee Blanche is more than doable for someone of your ability. Look up Compagnie des Guides, as you'd expect, every guide and their dog will do trips down the VB.

For food, I like MBC if nothing else for their burgers and beer, not exactly high class dining if that is what you're after but suits me fine.

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@pred02, It's been a while since I was in Chamonix but I would say the local pass would serve you fine for 4 days. As you state this gives you a day each in Brevieres, Argentiere, La Tours and Les Houches. Those areas should give you a wide range of skiing. Of course, if you are desperate to see as many areas as possible you can cram more in and get to Italy/ Verbiers etc. But I think you would be spreading yourselves a bit thinly and would be spending even longer on buses.

The Vallee Blanche is a great day out and a box to be ticked. The run is not too taxing so your level of skiing will be up to it no problem. It maybe worth waiting until near the time to book this as you will want a good viz day to fully appreciate it. You will need an instructor, who normally can provide avo gear. I'm sure there are plenty of others who will recommend good people to go with.

Enjoy

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Also worth pointing out that if you want to ski the VB (or Les Houches for that matter) you'll need the Unlimited pass. You could pay for a single trip on the Aiguille du Midi but that's about 50 euros anyway so probably easier just to get the full area so not constrained.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

1. Either Brevent/Flegere on the first day or le Tour. Le Tour has easier cruising but is a long way up the valley.
2. A day at the GM would be a good option. The cable car up to the top is bookable in advance and I suggest you do that. The views are stunning but the descents are genuinely black.
3. No real need to go to Courmayeur, although I think the pisted skiing there is better than in the Chamonix valley. Food and drink on the mountain is better too.
4. The key thing with the VB is being able to ski exactly where the guide tells you in good control and stop exactly where the guide says. Book through the Compagnie des Guides. I think they provide safety gear, which will probably be standard avalanche kit and a climbing harness. Bear in mind that the main hazard on the VB classic route is falling in a crevasse and that the terrain is not, in general, steep enough to be avalanche prone. Obviously that's not the case for variant routes in the area and it isn't an excuse not to carry the gear, either.

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I'm about to do a similar trip with a mixed bunch and have had a fair bit of time in Chamonix figuring it out for myself in the past...

I wouldn't focus on a day per mountain, they are very different and affected by the weather so do the research and plan on the day/night before, rather than have a fixed agenda.
For 4 days, I would not leave the valley and probably not consider Les Houches unless locked down, as above.

Brevent/Flegere a great intro, gets you on the slopes fast, in the sun and big view of MB from the top. Explore all the area, there are some quiet lifts and great runs.
Grand Montets is north facing, holds snow well, stays cold and is quite limited in terms of pistes and lifts, really comes alive when you venture off the sides if you are prepared. Bear in mind top lift is busy, booked up and accesses glaciated terrain so best stay on the marked but not groomed blacks for an awesome experience.
Le Tour is lovely cruising in the sun, but can be cold and exposed and is a long bus ride up from town.

Passes are 186 v 230 euro for the 4 day, so a 44 euro difference.
Midi is 49 Euro for a single trip.
Lognan (Gnd Montets) is 15 Euro per trip up.
A couple of these trips would cover the cost of the 'big' pass, which would give the flexibility, but the Midi, as said, is guided only and a specific undertaking. Due to the demand for lifts on Lognan in good weather, you might only get 1-2 runs, so unless you plan the Midi as a definite (highly weather dependant and added cost of a guide) a full pass may not be worth it.

To save some cash, you could get a 3 day local pass and a single full day for 204 Euro, so a possible saving, but you need consecutive days on the 3 day pass and the gamble on the weather for the 4th.

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

@gravity-slave, good advice, we've always decided on the lift area to head to the night before depending on forecast too.

Also, bear in mind that depending on when you go, and how much snow overnight there might have been, Grand Montets can be a bit mobbed, I've never known anywhere get as tracked out as quickly as there. I've not been back since they replaced the plan joran chair with the cabins so the queues at the base are, I guess, not as manic as they used to be.

After all it is free

@pred02, where are you staying as that somewhat affects advice...

We are doing this very thing from 27/1 - 1/2 and had planned our time pretty much as @gravity-slave, has suggested.

VB has been mooted as one of our party hasn't skied it (nor anywhere in the Chamonix Valley) but this will be very much dependent on conditions.

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Thanks everyone for your advice, it is very helpful. We rented an apartment right across from the Chamonix Sud station on Avenue de Courmayeur. As a general plan, Brevent/Flegere, Grand Montets a day for Vallée Blanche and a day La Tours / Les Houch seems like a good plan for 4 days.

We will ski Thursday - Sunday, besides the weather I suspect Sat/Sun will be busier so if there is any input in terms of resort order weekday/weekend it would be helpful as well. I suspect that the if we want to do VB, it is worth getting the Mont Blanc unlimited pass to go up the GM, whereas if not then we can get Le Pass. Will book an guide / group via Compagnie des Guides.

In terms of restaurants, I research in-town choices and got: Monkey, La Tablee, Chez Constant, Pizzeria Des Moulins, La Maison du Burger, Cool Cats and MNB. Any other recommended? What about on-mountain / resort restaurants, are there any that are recommended or is it all just the regular fare?

What is a good place to buy groceries/wine (good value) near where we are in Chamonix with no car? Any wine bars that are recommended?

Thanks

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That's a good spot as the main bus stops to everywhere stop on that very road. Seem to recall there is a nice bar or wine bar just down from Bar'd Up (definitely not a wine bar) but cant remember its name. Edit: It would have been on Rue des Moulins but still can't remember its name, sorry.

Second Edit: It's this one https://www.chamonet.com/bars/les-caves-chamonix-main-town-645657 Very Happy

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Nice restaurants or cheap? When in Cham I'm usually after cheap and cheerful but the place is packed with something for all budgets.
Belouga is close and good for a quick bite.
Poco Loco for burgers, go in and head up the small stairs and take a seat in the tiny space - OK food and price, fun atmosphere.

On the mountain, Table de Plan Joran on Grand Montets is good. Just down the slope from the Lognan. Great pizzas!

@pred02, that's helpful. You are in a good spot for many things.

Buying food, cheapest (I think) if you have a backpack is if you can navigate to the Carrefour on the other side of the main road. Otherwise Spar is adequately stocked with basics if a little pricier than elsewhere.

Good bars nearby are Bighorn Bistro (we like a lot, YMMV), Monkey and South Bar altho it may have a new name. Not too far away are Boccalatte (resto) and by then you are in town.

Belouga not far but never eaten there. Annapurna next door is a very good curry by any means. If slightly higher budget we like Telecabine. Pizzeria des Moulins defo good.

I think you have your skiing somewhat confused.

If it is good up Brevent/Fleg, I would aim to ski there two days, hit Grands Montets (if you care about iconic French skiing) on your second best forecast day - otherwise little point - and the Vallee B on your best weather day. There is little point going to La Tour or Les Houches just for the fun of a bus ride. IMHO. Unless happy with crevasses rescue you will want a VB guide.

On mountain I am afraid that contrary to @gravity-slave's opinion, unless (s)he knows something I don't, the Plan Joran pizzas are re-heated frozen. Maybe it's the posh restaurant where a steak is €38 without chips. Neither good value IMV.

Up Brev-Fleg the on mountain food is either acceptable or expensively acceptable. But not worth coming off hill to find better. But Flegere has a warm picnic room and if you can't be bothered carrying liquids you can buy beer and wine, at worst in the bar upstairs.

La tour has two very excellent if small restaurants, Ecuries de Charamillon and something (Alpage?) de Balme. The latter you defo need to book as it seats about 3 peeps. Both very nice. the other is popular and not enormous so book as well.

You know it makes sense.

@pred02,
I can whole heartedly recommend La Tablee, but be sure to book. My favourite place is quite a bit out of town at Les Gaillands - La Cremerie des Aiguilles. Small menu, rustic food and run by the most delightful young French woman.

As for eating whilst skiing, I would avoid all of the places run by the CdMB, or their agents of expensive stodge.

If skiing Le Tour there are good independent options
1) at the bottom of the run down to Vallorcine. Rustic cafe whose name escapes me.
2) at the bottom of the Valorcine lift, the railway station cafe. Both can be accessed by downloading in 10 minutes
3) the log cabin cafe at the bottom of the Aiguillette drag.

If skiing the Grands Montets I can recommend La Cremerie which is accessed just above the bottom of the home run by a wibbly track on the right (small sign), or the Marmottons right at the bottom.

If skiing Brevant/Flegere, may the Lord help you. I have only had packed lunches and can't recommend from experience.

La Ferme at Les Houches is not to be missed, and if you make it as far as Les Contamines, the cafe/bar at the bottom of Hauteluce has a great value plat of the jour.

As for the Valley Blanche, I wouldn't count on that unless there is an awful lot of snow between now and your arrival. Have a good time.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

Ignoring all other variables if it was me I'd warm up at La Tour then head to Brev-Fleg and then up to GM. This for me is in increasing order of difficulty as well as wow factor.

A snowHead

@Snow Hound, pain in the ass from Cham Sud however...

A snowHead

re ski pass - the Rapid Card is a bit cheaper than Unlimited, for same coverage. Works out E217 (4x E48/day + E25 to buy the pass) vs E230 for unlimited. Need to order online in advance and collect from Montenvers (10 min walk from where you're staying) which may negate the £20 saving for 2 of you, or might cover a lunch depending on your perspective. Also, if you come back you can use it again, and renewal seems to be free each year at present.

I'd definitely get unlimited or rapid card - even if you don't ski the VB, you're so close to the aiguille du midi cable car that a late afternoon trip up there is easy, and the views are amazing. If you get a bad weather day (which you might not know in advance) then you'll want to ski Les Houches which also requires one of these passes (and, indeed, on the Rapidcard, would save you E8 as the rate for Les Houches is lower).

I like the Plan Joran pizzas.

I love the Le Tour end of the valley, but from where you are if I wanted a gentle warmup day, I'd head to Les Houches rather than Le Tour.

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

@snowdave, plan joran pizzas, are definitely from frozen

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@pred02, Apres-ski in Chambre Neuf is a must if only once (it will be rammed) and the Micro-Brewery slightly out of town iirc is a good bar.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

Best bar in the valley by a mile was Chez Didier in the Les Pelerins shopping centre. I had a season ticket there for the previous 2 winters. Sadly the Didier in the title retired in spring and I dread to think what the new owners will have done to it. There was some talk of music being introduced, and maybe even food.

When in town, the favourite hostelry of our team is the Bar Le Chamonix in the town square. The antithesis of Chambre Neuf.

The only other one I really enjoy is that bonkers little bar/wine bar just below the Quechua shop. You know, the one with the sign saying "I open when I feel like it, so please yourself".

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@HammondR, i am liking your style

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

Micro-brewery MBC €10 ribs on a Friday night well worth it.

After all it is free

Actually just realised that we don't get to Chamonix until around 10pm on Friday evening. Does anyone know if there will be anywhere open (restaurant or take-away) to grab something to eat?

Kebab shop?

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Midnight express

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@bigtuboflard, Sounds ideal for 4 hungry boys arriving lateish. Laughing

Many thanks Toofy Grin

You know it makes sense.

We got an awfully long way through this before someone mentioned Midnight Express. I'm disappointed in us. Sandwich Americain probably the one to go for.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

If you're in Cham Sud I think Bighorn Bistro serves food pretty late.

It's open til midnight Fri and Sat, and I think does food until the end. It's pretty good too - the specials are excellent value.

A snowHead

If Bighorn's open, that would be my pick. Sound range of beers, good food.

A snowHead

Sorry for the thread hijack:

Our apartment is on Chemin des Fleurs, near Allee Recteur Payot, but only 12mins walk to Bighorn according to google maps, so that's a possibility too Very Happy

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

If you get the Unlimited pass for the top lift at GM even if you don't do the VB it's worth a trip up the AdM anyway if it's a clear day. If you do do the VB though book in for an early slot and then ski Brevent in the afternoon, as it's only a half day really. If you tend to stick strictly to the pistes you'll probably find GM a bit disappointing. If that happens you can head up to Le Tour at lunch and then use the spare day for Courmayeur.

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I'm looking to spend 3 days in Cham next weekend but having a hard time deciding on accommodation having never been before. Its either a cheap apartment in Cham town centre or there are some much better value options sort of in-between resort or this is an extremely good value 5* apartment up in Vallorcine.

From what I read above, 2 days doing Brevent/Flegere will probably suit us grand and then maybe think about something different for 1 other day, in which case the Cham centre apartment will probably be best option. The out of town accommodation looks much nicer though so I'm wondering how good the bus service is to get around. We'll probably have a hire car but that gets in the way of alcohol. Vallorcine from what I hear is just a bit too out of the way...

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

I'd stay in town as you will always think you're missing something, even if you're not.
Buses are good during the day but not at night so if the night time social aspect is important to you, don't go out of town. You're only there for 3 days so assume you will be out of the apartment most of the time anyway so comfort maybe not as important?

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@Rois1980, You assume correctly, thanks.

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

Trip is finally coming up, Thursday through to Sunday (3.5 - 4 days of skiing). It seems the lot of snow that we were expecting is mostly slush I see it's fairly warm. What are the conditions like on the ground? Any changes to the recommendations, we were thinking of: 1. Brevent/Flegere (Thursday), 2. GM (Friday), 3. TBC VB?

The snow that is due to fall this week is mostly slush as temperatures have been fairly high, any updates on the ski conditions from the ground?

After all it is free

@pred02, was apparently in good shape, snow level ~ +/- 1,300-1,800 yesterday so B/F Thursday, GMs Friday all good. Vallee Blanche apparently still not in great shape, although best to consult a guide as to whether they would take you. Also entirely weather dependent as no point going up in crap viz.

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@pred02, Courmayeur sounds to be in good shape. Not convinced I see the marginal benefit of going past the GMs to get to Le Tour.

Help!!

How to organize 4 days in Chamonix

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