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Saalbach - Hinterglemm - Leogang - Fieberbrunn 2016/17 Official Unofficial Thread

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Okay, think it might have been the angle of the cam deceiving me!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
I hope that I'm not being over-confident but I find it encouraging that the resort has opened on time and also there are plenty of positive reports and photos appearing on Facebook. Obviously things can get better or worse between now and Christmas but I feel more optimistic than I was at this time last year.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Looks like there has been a huge amount of snowmaking. Been watching the webcams every day (ok, every hour as I'm getting a bit obsessed) and the cannons have been working overtime and have been on most nights for quite a while so hopefully it will survive a warm spell. Am I right in thinking that artificial snow is a bit more hardy than real snow, am sure I heard it somewhere or is that complete nonsense?

Either way, provided there's enough snow to get up the turm lift, into the hinterhag and ski down afterwards it will be fine..!

@tatman's tours, we arrive on Boxing Day, is the resort usually in full swing by then? Many thanks.
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@p20pjd, It seems that there is another thread running, which provides up to date info about the conditions - see here: http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?p=2969331&highlight=saalbach#2969331

Can't comment on relative "hardiness" of artificial snow, but it would seem surprising if there's any difference.

Last Christmas it was possible to ski all the way down the Kohlmais and past the Hinterhag and down the nursery slopes, so I don't anticipate a problem. I will know more when I arrive in Saalbach on Saturday.

Things are usually a little subdued during the lead-up to Christmas, and on Christmas Eve (their main holy day) and Christmas Day, but everything (i.e. apres-ski, etc) usually gets going on Boxing Day, as all the holiday-makers arrive.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
As it's only 3 weeks till I go, I thought I'd pose a few questions (to take my mind off the lack of snow!)

We've only got 3 days skiing, staying in Hinterglemm, and my girlfriend has only a week or so on ski's so we'll mainly be on blues (the odd red), doing nothing too adventurous.

- Day 1, I think we'll go up the Reiterkogelbahn, and have a play around Hasenaur Kopfl to get our bearings, before moving over to the Spieleckkogel area. Any recommendations for lunch around these areas?
- Day 2, I quite fancy doing an anti-clockwise circuit from Hinterglemm (Schattberg-Vorderglemm-Saalbach-Hinterglemm). How long would that take? Can it be done on blues?
- Day 3, ideas? What's the 'easy park' like? Worth a visit? Any 'must-do' runs that my girlfriend would be okay on.
- How do you get to the Goasstall? It looks like it's on a toboganning run on the piste map!
- Night skiing? Worth doing?

Sorry for all the questions! Thanks in advance!!
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@Handy Turnip, can I borrow your girlfriend for a long weekend to work out how good a skier she is? wink Without knowing, it's hard to recommend runs that she'd be OK on...

1 - Between Hasenaur and Spieleck you'll pass the Roßwaldhütte, which I heartily recommend. If you go further over, Sonnhof and Hochalmhütte are good. Personally I'd avoid Wallegalm due to excess noise, but you may like that.
2 - the anti-clockwise circuit can be completed without any black runs, and while you can avoid reds in all areas by careful route planning, there are some places where the blues should really be classed as red, such as the last part of the run down to the bottom of Hochalmbahn which is steep for about 50 metres and has a lot of moguls on it just about all of the time. I've done it in 4 hours from the centre of Hinterglemm starting up Westgipfel, but that was with minimal stops, no run into Leogang, and a hard end time to meet ski school, and your experience may vary.
3 - the run down into Leogang is glorious in good conditions, and a stop at the Asitzbrau or indeed any of the alms in that area is recommended. As confidence on reds grows, you might like to try Seekar off the back of Zwölferkogel - it's one of my favourite runs in the area, despite the T-bar to get to it.

The Goaßstal is on several marked runs, and despite the piste map showing it in the wrong place for clarity. It's actually where the Reiterkogelbahn crosses the tunnel, but the map would be too busy if it was shown accurately. Blue runs 27a and 32a go past the terrace, and red 33a and 39 approach it from the other side but in recent times have suffered from lack of coverage due to there being no snowmaking on that side. At the moment, both are grass, while the blues have a decent cover of artificial snow.

Night skiing is something I've never done, as I use all of my energy during the day, and can't be bothered to get back into sweaty kit and go out again after dinner. But on a 3 day trip, I'd be tempted. The floodlit slope in Hinterglemm is good, and the lift is quick and comfortable, so I have been tempted previously. It depends how many times you can do a single run before you get bored.
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Cheers @ousekjarr, I would be tempted to ask her but my fear is that she'd probably take you up on your offer! wink

She used to ski when she was teenager, but after a 20 year gap she's only had a few days under her belt since. That said in those few days, it's obvious that she's very comfortable on blues and has done a few gentle reds, so she's progressing fast. Plus she's completely fearless!!!

Thanks for the tips - the Rossesldhutte looks in the perfect place, so we'll give that a go for day 1.

Tatman's Tours has also mentioned the runs into Leogang being worthwhile, so may look at that for day 3 depending on how we feel.

Cheers snowHead Very Happy
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
The Roßwaldhütte ( http://www.rosswaldhuette.at/en/ ) has two parts - a self-service entrance with outside seating only, and an inside area which is table service. If the weather is bad, expect the outside to be empty and the inside to be rammed at peak times. I've never seen it quiet, but after 1 is better than the 1130-1300 peak.

If she's fearless, take her down the Zwolfernordabfahrt when it is icy. At the bottom (should you make it that far), she'll either be clinging to you, or will have dumped you by then wink They've reclassified most of it as red now with detours around short black sections, but the classic line is excellent if you have the technique to match the challenge.
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whats the smoking situation like in saalbach, are the mountain restaurants smoke free, last year in soll a check out lady blew smoke all over my food, i told her what i thought and left, and put me off the ski weld mountain restaurants all week, its brilliant for smokers but hell for some of us, it has put me off of going back to austria, but saalbach/hinterglemm is one of the places i want to go to.
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@Handy Turnip, I'll add a few comments to the excellent summary by @ousekjarr

1. Good idea to start on Hasenauer - i.e at the top of the Reiterkogel gondola. Ski down towards the Hasenauer 8 chairlift. Tucked around the back of this lift is a small drag lift 48a Filzenlift. If your girlfriend needs to find her ski legs, then this is an excellent place to spend an hour before tackling anything steeper. Then take the chair lift, turn left at the top and follow the easy blue past the Roßwaldhütte to the Spieleck area. For a first day, I'd take the Hochalm 6er, turn right and play around on Blue 25 rather than going to the runs off the Spieleck 6er, which are a bit steeper. Eat at the Roßwaldhütte, which you can reach from 25 by taking a left on 27. This is also the route back to Hinterglemm.

2. The anticlockwise run can be done entirely on blues, but there are a couple of narrow and bumpy bits, particularly late in the day. BUT if there has not been any significant snowfall, 2b down from Schattberg to Vorderglemm will either be closed or a narrow and icy nightmare. My alternative suggestion: Take the Reiterkogel and Hasenauer lifts as on day 1, but turn right at the top and ski towards Saalbach and the Bernkogel, via the Sunliner lift. At the bottom of Bernkogel, cross the road and take the lifts onto Kohlmais, working your way over to the top of Schönleiten. Eat at the Wildenkarhütte or Hochwartalm. Reverse direction to get back to Hinterglemm.

3. Leogang. Either ski or bus to Schönleiten. Turn right at the top and follow signs to Leogang. Spend the day playing around over there on pistes 88 (under the Asitz gondola) or 92 (under the Steinberg gondola). Lunch at Asitzbrau, Alte Schmiede or the (now very posh) Chicken Man, which are all located at the top of the 2 gondolas. If there has been significant snowfall and piste 68 is open (at the top of Polten / Sportbahn 2000) then this is a must, either on your way over to Leogang or on the way back. From Viehhofen, a 2 minute bus ride takes you back to the Schönleitenbahn.

Blue 32a goes directly past the Goaßstall, or it's a 5 minute walk up from the Reiterkogel base station.
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@Handy Turnip, I typed all that follows, before I'd seen quinton's comments, so bear that in mind.

On the Reiterkogel, at the top of the Reiterkogelbahn is the Wieseralm, which is one of our favourite restaurants. The Reiteralm is also very nice, and the Sonnalm has received good reports. Can't comment on the Sportalm, as it's not one we use.
Further over at Hochalm, I agree with ousekjarr that the Sonnhof is good, but I can't really comment on the Rosswaldhuette, which we usually ski past (it's invariably heaving). I agree that the Walleggalm should be avoided, unless you're into loud music - also it's self-service and the prices are slightly higher than elsewhere.

The complete anti-clockwise circuit (not including Leogang and Fieberbrunn) takes a competent intermediate, going at a moderate pace, around 4 hours, including a lunch stop of about an hour. It can all be done on blues. PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you an itinerary. By the time you get there, it should all be open, but check at the time that piste 2b is open. The most challenging blue, which should arguably be graded red, is in fact piste 2b, although it may well be okay at the time you will be doing it - it tends to get chopped up and mogully towards the end of the skiing day. A good place to stop for lunch might be the Bergeralm on piste 66, on the way down to Saalbach.

Day 3 ideas - I agree that a trip to Leogang would be worth doing, if your g-f can handle a short red. You can cut down the journey time by catching the ski bus down to Saalbach and going up either the Kohlmais or the Schattberg. Alternatively you could stay on the bus as far as the Schoenleitenbahn, which takes you up to the summit of the Wildenkarkogel, from where it's only three pistes until you're in Leogang - i.e. the area at the top of the gondolas. For lunch, the choice would be between the Hendl Fischerei (our current favourite), otherwise known to many of us as the "Chicken Man", the Asitzbraeu or the Alte Schmiede - three of the best mountain restaurants in the entire area - or possibly anywhere.

Both of the runs down to the Leogang valley - the Asitz run and the Steinbergbahn - are blue. At least the former has a blue option from the mid-station. The latter is a glorious blue, with one short tricky bit (for novices) just above mid-station.

Aim to set off back from Leogang (the area at the top of the gondolas) around 2.30pm. We sometimes leave it until after 3.30pm, but we only have to get as far as Saalbach and we're generally with intermediates. If you were to run short of time, it wouldn't matter, because you could just ski down the valley on the Saalbach side - either to Jausern, where the bottom station of the Schoenleitenbahn is located, or to Saalbach village, from where you could catch the ski bus to Hinterglemm.

Alternatively you could tarry a while at Leogang, head for the Bergeralm on piste 66 for happy hour between 3.30- 4.30pm, and then ski down easy blue pistes 66 and 52 to the Hinterhagalm for the renowned apres-ski party (4.00-7.15pm). Then catch a taxi back to Hinterglemm from outside the Hinterhag or Bauer's Schi-alm. (If Day 3 happens to be NYE, there will be a private, ticket-only party going on in the Hinterhagalm, so that wouldn't be an option).

Another option for Day 3 might be the Zwoelferkogel, which has good and fairly extensive skiing for a learner. My recommendation for lunch would be the Hintermaisalm.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
@compostcorner, Like Austria generally, Saalbach-Hinterglemm is anything but a smoke-free zone! The restaurant and bar owners just don't get how offensive we Brits find it. Having said that, it's just a question of trying to be laid-back and adapt to their different culture. Try to find a table away from any smokers, and make an assessment when you go in as to whether it's too smoky. You're unlikely to find it too smoky in the mountain restaurants (and there are plenty to choose from) at lunch time.

Personally I hate smoke (and inconsiderate smokers who sit there chain-smoking and adding to the fug); however I'm there all season, so I just have to get used to it and choose which bars and restaurants to go in, and which to stay in. Many's the time I've been driven out of late-night bars by the smoke though, although not enough to stop me from frequenting them.
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So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
@compostcorner, although it may not seem like it at times, Austria has improved enormously over the last 5-10 years or so, and most of the larger alms now have dedicated non-smoking rooms if you take the time to find them. The smaller ones may have non-smoking areas, but the reality is that this doesn't work - air can't read signs, and will insist on mixing. The outside areas are an option if the weather is good, but then of course all of the smokers will be outside as well.

Restaurants are slightly better in my experience, but it does vary.

Bars are more of a problem, and brolly bars more so again. They make you realise just how much the UK has changed, and how far Austria still has to go. It is changing, but very slowly.
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You know it makes sense.
maybe austria is just not for me at the moment, which is a shame because i would love to ski the saalbach area, maybe i could just stay in my hotel of an evening with a takeaway pizza
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
@compostcorner, Restaurants on the whole are fine, so for lunch and dinner you should easily be able to find plenty of smoke-free options. The real smokey holes continue to be the bars, where it seems to be the staff and a half dozen blokes at the bar who seem intent on fogging up the place for everyone else Sad
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@compostcorner, Don't let it deter you. As quinton says, it's not hard to avoid smoky places during the day, and in the evening there are plenty of restaurants that you will find perfectly acceptable. To be honest, the only places you are likely to find smoky are some of the apres-ski haunts and late-night bars - and again these are easily avoided. It's just that I choose to put up with it and have never yet let smoke stop me from socialising wherever I want to go. I shouldn't complain really, as I could pick and choose where to go if I was as concerned as you appear to be. Often I'm "out on the town" with smokers, so I tend to get dragged into smoky bars, and I get mystified looks if I start going on about the smoke. A good example is Bobby's Pub, which is an admirable institution, offering a very convivial atmosphere, as well as music, dancing, live musicians, good, cheap food, and even ten-pin bowling. The only fly in the ointment is that it can get smoky, especially late on a busy evening - but if that happens, there are plenty of other places to go, including some very civilised hotel bars. No need whatsoever to live like a hermit in order to avoid smoke.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
This excellent video shows the conditions on 4th December:
http://youtube.com/v/kXC5fvi4J1g&feature=youtu.be
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Cheers Tatman's Tours, quinton, great tips - many thanks. I need to have a sit down with a piste map and pull a plan together!

I like the alternative option for day 3 of exploring around Zwoelferkogel - as we wouldn't have skied this on any other days (the anti-clockwise circuit would mean getting lifts over these runs).

Also, the Wieseralm is relatively close to where we are staying so we'll definitely give that a go at some point too.

Cheers all!
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A couple of questions... we arrive on 20th and are looking to take advantage of using our passes at 3pm on the day of arrival. Is the Ubahn likely to be operating for night skiing that early in the season?

The Chicken Man... Jnr and I love a rotisserie chicken. However, the OH isn't keen on bones and having to act as a butcher while she's eating. Does he serve anything else (I think ribs have been mentioned in the past, but that counts as butchery too!)?
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@hammerite, I would think so, provided that snow conditions on the floodlit piste are okay.

From our experience, there are a few other items available on the menu, so you should be okay. If not, the Asitzbraeu and the Alte Schmiede are only literally a stone's throw away. The chicken is renowned!
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Thanks TT - we've eaten at the Alte Schmiede in the past and was impressed. The chicken man was closed each time we've been over that way, but that was before he opened the new place. I'm looking forward to the experience!
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Who and where is the Chicken Man!?
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Doing Saalbach Feb, first time there. What's the most likely local bars from Pension Enzien?
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@Dr John, Bobby's is likely to be a good option for an evening wander out. For après immediately after a day's skiing I would say that the better options are over on the Kohlmais side. Which is a shame given how close to the Schattberg you are, although a steady wander back with a few stop offs would be called for. I'm sure Mr T will give a better overview than me!


@Handy Turnip, I've never visited as he was always shut when I headed over (he used to sell out and close up early!). But he's moved to new swanky premises, but still still serves legendary chicken. He's at the top of the Asitz cable car as you head over to Leogang.
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@Dr John, just make sure you visit the Hinterhag Alm on your way down wink (TT will tell you to grab few BOGOF drinks at the Bergeralm's Happy Hour too!)
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@Handy Turnip, The coolest restaurant in the Alps:
http://youtube.com/v/c1cZFEmT7Lo

@Dr John, Saalbach is a compact village and all bars are within easier staggering distance - for later evening apres-apres-ski we tend to use Bobby's, the Underbar (opposite Bobby's), the Otzi Bar (up the main street and on the right just before the Hotel Panther), and the Spitzbub (just past the church) the most.

@HoneyBunny, I'm so predictable! wink
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Is that the Chicken Man?
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
@PeteMan, It is now! For many years it was a windblown garden shed selling chicken and ribs on paper plates, that you ate sitting in the snow. Two years ago the new Steinberg cable car was built and the shed was demolished. In its place they built this extremely stylish restaurant. The food is excellent and prices are reasonable. On a sunny day when the roof is open it is a wonderful spot to enjoy the atmosphere and take in the views.
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You know it makes sense.
Cheers TT, that looks amazing! I was up for going just for the legendary chicken but the place and views look incredible!!!!
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Here's my first report of the season. I arrived around mid-day yesterday in the middle of the annual 'Rave on Snow' weekend (which I would not particularly recommend to music lovers rolling eyes ). I was surprised by two things: how busy the village was - apparently 19,000 beds filled - (but no doubt it'll be very quiet from now until Christmas), and also how cold it felt. After a power nap, it seemed only right to seek sustenance and lubrication at Bobby's Pub and the Underbar - the general feedback from the bartenders about conditions was that the pistes were in a pretty good state and that it's impressive what can be achieved with snow-making (deja vu!)
Today we sallied forth in the afternoon and had a blast around the Kohlmais. As you would expect from the lack of people, the pistes are in good condition - firm, fast and unmogulled. All the main pistes are open, and also the three main pistes down to Saalbach village from Kohlmais (piste 52), the Bernkogel and the Schattberg. We skied over to the Wildenkarkogel and back to the Bergeralm for welcome happy hour gluhweins. Whilst we were in there it started to snow and we came down in snow, turning to sleet as we neared the village. It's forecast to get colder tonight, so there is a prospect of a few cm by morning. That elusive first big dump is keenly awaited!


Last edited by Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name: on Sun 11-12-16 22:53; edited 1 time in total
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Even a few cm's would be extremely welcome news with snow being so elusive at the monent!
Keep the reports coming!!!!
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It looks like more than a few centimeters on the web cams today - the lower slopes are now covered, and it is still falling at a moderate rate. Another 10-20 would be very welcome, but this is the first new fall for at least a couple of weeks, and it has cheered me up considerably wink
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@HoneyBunny, @hammerite, Hinterhag has bee mentioned before, as has Berger Hochalm for early mountain beers?

Tatman's Tours, thanks for town recommendations.
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Quick question:

Recently been looking at an online video of the blue 65 run from Wildenkarkogel to Berger Hochalm. On the video, it seemed as if the section from where blue 65 crosses blue 57, to the Berger Hochalm was quite steep. Is this section of the slope really that steep or was it my eyes playing tricks on me? If it is steep, is there an alternative less steep route to take down to the Berger Hochalm ??

Thx
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
@jimmybog, 65 doesn't run from Wildenkarhütte to Berger Hochalm - I think you mean 66. This run is wide and rolling, so small steeper bits followed by shallow bits. Definitely a blue run, but stay in the middle or towards the skiers left. The other side, under the chair lift, is steeper and can get very bumpy. There is no alternative route.
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quinton wrote:
@jimmybog, 65 doesn't run from Wildenkarhütte to Berger Hochalm - I think you mean 66. This run is wide and rolling, so small steeper bits followed by shallow bits. Definitely a blue run, but stay in the middle or towards the skiers left. The other side, under the chair lift, is steeper and can get very bumpy. There is no alternative route.


Thanks Quinton, last seasons PDF piste map I'm looking at definately says blue 65. Just checked the new map for this season and it does say blue 66, thx for the correction and info
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Any update on how much snow actually fell yesterday and what conditions are like?
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@Handy Turnip, OK, my first day of the season skiing in Saalbach today. About 15cm of new snow has fallen over the last two days, so although the green fields have been lightly covered, there is nothing to ski on outside of the prepared pistes.

Today has been a beautiful sunny day with deep blue, cloudless skies. I set off to Hochalm and don't think I saw more than 20 people on the way over there. Right now the resort is almost empty. Piste conditions are very good. The whole circuit is open, but with a number of parallel pistes closed. There is a good base of artificial snow topped off by the new snow.

The run from Saalbach, above Hinterglemm and to Hochalm was crisp and fast in the morning and softened up a little as the temperature rose to 2° by lunchtime. I also took a detour to Fieberbrunn on the way home and played around on F14 and the TirolS lift. Really good conditions and an excellent first day Cool
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@quinton, does it look like they can get more pistes open before New Year? Are they snow-making on the closed pistes?
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@Valkyrie, They are making snow at full-blast day and night!

I only skied the Hochalm/Hasenauer side today, so can't comment on the rest of the resort. The Spieleck lift was not running, but the piste bashers were hard at work preparing the pistes over there, and they had been open over last weekend. The reds off Hochalm were both closed and bare. Black 26 was pisted but closed - some people were skiing it anyway. Blue 25 was open and pisted to its full width. Elsewhere on that side, there were runs with a good snow cover that had not yet been pisted, but outside of the pistes there is only a light dusting of snow.

There are very few people here this week - at one point we could see nobody at all below us from the top of the first bend on 25 to the point where it meets the black run, so maybe 1.5 km. I assume that they are not opening everything this week in order to preserve the pistes for Christmas and New Year, and with so few people here, there is plenty to ski on at the moment.
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