Poster: A snowHead
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Reading into this device it suggests you have to pre-heat the base area you are filling first before applying the ptex. Just wondering how this works with a long gouge ? eg. 20-30cm? Do you just keep working up and down it with the tip until it’s heated and softened along the length (or does the base cool too quick to do long gauges?) and then do your pass with the trigger depressed to dispense the ptex ?
Once the ptex is in do you also then have to try and apply pressure, like you do for a candle drip repair ?
Secondly for a deep core shot, am I right in understanding I should get some epoxy or araldite stuff in the crack first to cover the exposed core, then after that has set continue to the ptex fill with the repair gun ? For a deep gauge does gun this dispense enough ptex to fill in one hit, or is it a case of doing a pass leaving it to cool then going over it again ?
Thanks for any advice.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Metalgrip is waaaaaay better than epoxy and it sets/hardens in less than a minute & any excess can simply be trimmed off. And a 20cm length for £1.50 will last you a lifetime. No need to pre-heat the base when applying it either.
P-tex will only stick to p-tex & not to the core or the metal edge. It is possible to get a reasonable bond on very small core shots with a candle but the repair is not actually sticking to the core but to the surrounding p-tex - whereas on larger repairs there's not enough perimeter to bond to relative to the surface area being cover so the repair will lift.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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On the gouge on the left it looks as through some p-tex has lifted from the core - try prying it up gently to check & if it has cut it out & do a bigger repair as it'll only lift with the heat from the pistol.
These repairs are really easy as if it doesn't turn out as required just cut it out & start again with no harm done.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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OK thanks, so for those two dings in my picture you'd recommend a quick drip of metal grip (quick being the operative word if 20cm lasts a lifetime!?) then ptex it with the gun ?
EDIT - Sorry hadn't seen your 15:28 post when I wrote this. And yes you are right, the gouge on the left was effectively a long undercut, and having cut out the excess "flap" Im left with a gouge through to the core pretty much the length of that gouge.
Sorry last stupid question of the day : You said above "Don't pre-heat the metalgrip, just apply molten p-tex straight on top", but then also ptex only sticks to ptex and the ptex you are applying the repair too needs preheating so make it adhere - so do you mean after adding the metal grip, leave it to cool, then preheat the ptex around the gouge (but not directly heat the metalgrip in the gouge), then pull the trigger ? (hope that makes sense)
Appreciate your advice. Just about about to place an order. You are "Row and Snock" right?
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Sorry, p-tex will stick to the metalgrip. And yes, just warm around the metalgrip a bit then apply the molten p-tex straight over the top.
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My shiny box of kit was delivered yesterday. Thanks@spyderjon for sending it out quickly. Another happy customer
Will post a final pic of how I get on with the ski mender.
I have a busy weekend of repairing & waxing ahead. Particularly as I've now just ordered my wife a new pair of Atomic Affinity Sky skis in the sales.
I didn't have my own service kit when I bought my new board, so I never did anything to it, just went out and used it. But is conventional wisdom to use base cleaner on the new skis to strip out the factory wax, then load it up with the base renew wax you just sent me (kicking myself for not ordering a larger block now!), before applying my usual universal wax ? Or just wax straight on top of the factory wax?
On the plus side, my standard rules for a wax and scrape cycle dictate that it is always done with an accompanying beer or wine (occasionally a martini cocktail) at each stage, 1 for wax on, 1 for wax off Daniel-san... So with a base renew wax, then a universal wax, then a final spring wax, on a board and skis, I make that 6 cycles, which technically makes for a binge.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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A hot scrape clean is far more effective than base cleaner/de-waxer. De-waxer is great for cleaning out gouges prior to repairing 'em & for cleaning scrapers.
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OK so here are the results : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10155356062190099.1073741829.749340098&type=1&l=8a7a5a21ff
(you don't need to sign in to view)
I'm pretty happy overall. Took a few goes to get the hang of it, so some of the repairs have a few shallow chips in but actually not as deep as they look on the pictures. A couple of times I was a bit heavy handed with the chisel and chipped out ends of repair but again only shallow bits (they are shallower in real life than the photos suggest). Theres a few more shallow chunks on the photo's that I wish I'd have filled but will leave these till after my next trip.
My observations:
- It can deal with way shallower gouges than a candle. I tried a few small cuts that I wouldnt have bothered using a candle on and it filled them nicely and didn't drop out when scraping. The long 30-40cm scratch, which is still visible under the clear ptex was pretty shallow but is now nice and smooth, you can't really feel it with a finger nail. I don't think the candle would have managed this one.
- Short holes are way easier to deal with than long gouges. On long wounds, I found it hard pre heating the next stretch after doing the first stretch as it would pull the molten ptex with it. I found for long gouges I had the best success by preheating the first area, dispensing ptex, then moving continually back reaaaaaaally slowly, like the length of the nib in 30 seconds, dispensing a little ptex each time. This seemed to work nicely.
- I had best results leaving it a good hour or two before scraping off the excess ptex.
- The repair is way tougher than candle as you say. Thanks for the tip off about the chisel, worked a treat, the steel scraper was not alot of use. Needs some care to work down gradually with the chisel as I unwittingly some some chunks of the repair out by beaing too heavy handed and going straight in at base level rather than working down from the top of the repair.
- Sandpapering for a smooth finish and blending was also a top tip, thanks.
- The metal grip was quite tricky hard to get into the holes, the nib of the tool would only just melt it, it stayed quite tacky, I was exepcting it to go more fluid. That said once in it worked. I needn't have worried about excess spillages as it scrapes off esaily. Also where I had two gouges next to the edge, where previous candle repairs have failed at first scrape, the metal grip + ptex repair seems to have worked a treat.
Overall I'm really happpy for the first bash and as I had two core shots to address it's probably almost already paid for itself against shop repair costs. I gouged out an earlier poor candle repair and re-did this too.
Well worth 50 notes. Seems to put in a solid and smooth repair. With practice I think repairs would be almost invisible.
Cheers
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