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Home Ski Waxing

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Hi

Am considering going down the road of servicing my own skis. Have been reading up on the process and it does sound relatively straight forward.

Thing that is confusing me is what basic kit do I need to obtain to do a simple edge and wax? Clearly an iron, wax and edging tool as the minimum. There also seem to be a bewildering amount of brushes and scrapers on the market. Was considering a Toko Iron and wax, a perspex scraper and a nylon bush. In terms of the waxing side of the process would these items be sufficient or do I need anything else?

Griggs
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
This:

http://www.jonsskituning.co.uk/component/page,shop.product_details/flypage,shop.flypage/product_id,258/category_id,11/manufacturer_id,0/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,1/

I have just done a tuning tutorial with Jon at the Piste Office. This kit has everything you need to do a home tune.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
I found this tutorial pretty helpful I had to watch it a few times though[url]
http://youtube.com/v/F2aHyzqPD4U[/url]
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@TheDoctor, +1

I got the same kit from Jon, used it heavily all winter, it's been perfect - about to do 3 pairs of skis this weekend again to start the season. He sorted out the shipping to Switzerland as well for me - I couldn't find a better set up at such a good price anywhere.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
You can spend loads to get a better kit set up as above but a few bits n pieces will also do for occasional use. Definitely recommend Jon though for getting the bits. I'll get into my bag this evening and give some more detailed info on what I have found most useful. Love waxing skis, but hate tidying wax off the floor so most of my recent research has been on DIY benches. Going to make something like this:
http://chris-cbphotography.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/ski-tuning-bench-ver-2-done.html#more
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Although I don't doubt the quality of "Jon's" kit, £200 is a tad on the steep side for the twice (maybe 3 times) a year waxer.

Not got this kit but have one pretty similar:

http://www.atbshop.co.uk/snowboard-tuning-accessories/demon-snow-complete-tune-kit?gclid=Cj0KEQiAkdajBRCJ_7_j6sCck7wBEiQAppb2iwJzwAydL0MQvLlySY1e70Y3L00WoSjeJttxq3BK7wsaAjkO8P8HAQ

Contains everything you need for waxing and even simple ptex repairs. You'll just need £5 worth of wax off eBay and you'll be sorted all season!
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
If you've an old iron knocking about, this will get you going even cheaper...

http://www.granitereef.co.uk/Snow/Tools-and-Accessories/Da-Kine-Quick-Tune-Kit.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAkdajBRCJ_7_j6sCck7wBEiQAppb2iw2IE24Fs1GGBrsheoso-Xx7KONuoXNIZdDzcjt2LNEaAmWM8P8HAQ

...although for a real nice finish you might want to add a nylon brush.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Most important............... Make certain that the iron is not too hot. I cannot emphasize that enough!!!!!!!!!! Here's a clue......... NO SMOKE!!!! Wax smoke is a no no.

In simple explanation............, prep the skis to absolute perfection. You can improvise if you do not have a ski bench and vice. Select a basic wax - nothing fancy, do not get caught up in all the temperature mumbo jumbo which is for the most part a game. If you cannot secure an all-around wax, then select a warm temp wax. Yes, a warm temp (typically "red") wax and stick with it. I'm in Obamastan and here we can get Hertel (Hot Sauce) Wax which I believe is not available in your neck of the woods but if you can ever get it, get it. At least visit Hertel's website and educate yourself about the truth surrounding wax.

With your skis preferably at room temp, holding the iron above the skis apply (drip) a small melted bead of wax to the entire ski and immediately work the iron very quickly back and forth over the base - spreading the wax - progressively allowing the wax to melt into the base but watch out that you do not raise the base temperature too much. Again......., no overheated iron and keep a fast paced back and forth ironing motion upon the entire base and a little goes a fairly long way when it comes to wax. Eventually the whole base is liquified with wax. You can let it rest for about three minutes and start working it off or do as many do and then again after the rest period, with the iron, most rapidly go back and forth the entire length and once again lightly melt (liquify) the wax further into the pores which further incorporates it into the base. It's essentially microscopic but numerous waxings do precipitate smoother (faster) skis. Let rest for a good three minutes, sometimes five. By the way, a well prepped base under waxing should show no high or low spots. If high or low spots exist, the base is irregular and needs to be tuned..............

After the final rest scrape off as much as possible. Be careful not to dig into the base, multiple light to medium scrapes work best. And scrapers work perfectly for edge work. No speciallty (nonsense) tool for that, please.............. When you are satisfied that as much wax as possible has been taken off via light passes that yield no further wax, out comes the brush and while poly brushes are great, I prefer brass. Even 3M Scotch Brite pads work for this, too. Either way, scrub lightly, very lightly from head - to - toe with finishing single entire length strokes. Polish out with cork, or rag or newspaper.
When transporting - always in a protective bag, separate the bases where they contact with newspaper or plastic film. If the skis wind up on a car rack as I see all the time on their way to or from the mountains, laid bare to all the elements on ye olde highway such as mag chloride, salt, more mag chloride, salt, exhaust, grit etc. which wrecks havoc on base, as well bindings but what the heck, that Lexus or BMW or fellow Volvo is so cool............., one trick I picked up on before the Magna Carta was drafted is to wrap skis in garbage bags (typically two joined via duct tape) and then when at the mountain uncase. Voila, perfectly clean skis. Spare garbage bags and duct tape take up no room for the trip home.

I wax or have my skis waxed everyday. Yes. Everyday. And in a pinch, this new fangled teflon liquid actually does work. But wax still rules. One tip when away from home be same the big city, or if not at one's cabin/ski house where one can do their own work, let us say far away en vacance............ At the end of the day I automatically turn my skis over to a shop at the base of the mountain where I am skiing that I have checked out and assessed as being a good, competent shop. I lodge the skis with them overnight for the purpose of being waxed for which a good shop also check edges and correct back to conformation. Bingo.................., I'm not lugging skis around, they're lodged (as are the poles) and in the a.m., right at the base of the mountain my skis await all nicely waxed. It is worth the cost (typically $5.00 USD/what, Four Pounds/ Five Euros?......, whatever...........) a million times over and anytime I do I typically slip the guys a six pack of quality brew or a nice bottle of wine and it's amazing how I get freebies - no charge or reduced charge after that..............

A simple adjustable temp everyday/regular iron (I have always bought mine used) works perfectly. Wax.........., basic wax is not too dear. Scrapers are cheap, brushes not that much. All in all you should not have to realistically go beyond what...., sixty pounds? I wouldn't, save for Hertel Hot Sauce.


Last edited by After all it is free Go on u know u want to! on Thu 27-11-14 17:04; edited 10 times in total
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I have always wondered why Hertel's products are not available here in Euroland? There seems to be just SWIX and TOKO....
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Hi

Wow thanks so much for all the advice here. Very much appreciated.

I have now sourced an waxing iron, suitable wax, a nylon brush, cork pad and ski tuning vices that I can put onto my trusty Black and Decker Workmate to form a ski tuning bench. Will follow your method equinoxranch - making sure no smoke from the wax. I have made sure that I have watched the video above closely a good few times as well to make sure I have fully grasped the concepts involved in waxing !! Very Happy

Looking forward to being able to lavish some tlc on my skis.

Griggs
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@Griggs, A brass brush is best for pre/post wax brushing as a nylon brush (& horsehair) is too soft to clean out the structure grooves. Nylon/horsehair are polishing brushes to be used afterwards & if you're racing/needing top end performance it isn't necessary. And if you're ironing in the wax you don't need a waxing cork at all.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Hi
This seems such a minefield ! Essentially I was going to employ the following technique;

1. Scrap the bottom of the ski with plexi scraper to remove the old wax.
2. Run over with a brush (brass or nylon) to ensure all residual wax removed working from tip to tail
3. Run over with soft cloth
4. Apply hot wax from iron and iron into base of ski.
5. Whilst still warm scrap this off with plexi scraper to clean the base of the ski again working from tip to tail
6 Brush base again
7 Apply coat of hot wax from iron and iron into base
8 Leave for 20 / 30 minutes
9 Scrap off excess wax using a plexi scraper using light pressure from tip to tail
10 Finish off with nylon brush and rub over with cork to bring up shine
11 Finish off with soft cloth.

How does this sound?

Griggs
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So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
@Griggs, You forgot the liquid teflon and graphite powder
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
OMG how many more steps are there !! rolling eyes Very Happy
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
1, scrape/use wax remover
2, wipe
3, wax
4, beer/wine/???
5, scrape
6, use

any more is a waste of your time
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
@Griggs, do your edges and base repairs first. Then mainly 7 8 and 9.
If you do them regularly double waxing won't be needed, but it's nice to see all the crap coming out of new skis when you do an initial waxing.
Unless you are racing no need to go mad with the final scrap, I often don't bother until I'm getting them out of the car as it makes such a mess.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
or follow this - apologies if you read it in another post!
By The Jaded Local

It’s that time of year again, when you pull the skis out of the moldering junkpile in the back of the pickup where you left them last May and realize that it’s time for a tune—the edges are rusty and hammered, the bases look like a dog’s chew toy… and Opening Day is in 48 hours. But why waste 40 bucks and a precious sixer at the shop so some dope can run them through a machine when you can do it yourself? How hard can it be?

Here’s my time-tested two-day method:

Day 1

1. Assemble tools and supplies: files, stones, P-tex, metal and plastic scraper, iron, wax, three six-packs.

2. Clamp vices to work surface. Vices should be only barely able to grip sidewalls, allowing the ski to pop free and clatter to the floor at crucial moments in the Tuning Process. Wedge brakes up with a ballpoint pen or something equally sure to pop loose and cause chaos.

3. Start with Base Repair: light P-tex stick and carefully drip into damaged areas of the base and living room carpet. When the ski slips out of the vice or the brake snaps up and spatters hot P-tex onto your arm, make sure to wipe it off with your bare hand, leaving you with searing liquid plastic melting into your arm and fingertips. Whimper in pain and crack first beer with uninjured hand.

4. Now use the metal scraper to scrape off excess p-tex. Make sure to bend the scraper with your thumbs and push really hard, pulling out several of your new patches and removing enough existing base material so that the ski is edge-high and no stone grinder structure remains. Open second beer and resolve philosophically to fill in remaining base damage with wax as if that will work on anything more than the level of token gesture.

5. Edge Filing: Use one of those cheap little handy-dandy pocket filing units with adjustable bevel angle. Rationalizing that more must be better, set bevel angle to the maximum possible, apply to both base and side edge so that your skis will be both squirelly and grabby. Push the tool as hard as you can, scooping big waves into the edge and removing enough steel to so that it will require a massive amount of belt grinding at the shop to undo. Get your stroke figured out as you finish the first ski, thus ensuring that you have a totally different tune on each ski. Leave a big fat burr sticking out and cut your thumb on it when you check the sharpness of your work. Realize that the knob that adjusts the bevel angle on the pocket tuner has worked loose so your actual edge bevels are anyone’s guess; shrug and open third beer. Bleed on carpet.

6. Use a soft gummy stone to carefully dull the tips and tails. Cut your other thumb trying to catch ski as it pops loose from the vise and falls to the floor, taking the curtains with it and almost killing the cat. Open fourth beer.

7. Now it’s time to wax! Turn up the iron high enough that it starts smoking, then choose a high-fluorocarbon race wax that’s only supposed to be corked in, and dribble copious amounts on the ski and living room carpet. Iron wax in to the base, moving the iron slowly until the base material itself begins to bubble and blister. Inhale toxic flourocarbons deeply and drift into a flourocarbon-y reverie. Call your ex-girlfriend and order a pizza from her voicemail, then woozily attempt to wax the cat. Open front door to ventilate apartment and watch numbly as the cat shoots through your legs, never to be seen again. Wait until the wax has cooled and then use metal scraper to remove excess wax until you remember that you were supposed to use the plastic scraper for this part. Grind wax scrapings into carpet with your shoes. Crack sixth beer.

8. Flex skis experimentally, causing remaining P-tex patches to pop loose like flappy scabs. Wash down leftover painkillers from knee surgery with last beer. Pass out on the now race-ready carpet.

Day 2

Fighting the brutal beer/percocet/race wax hangover from Day One, bring skis to the shop where you will be charged extra for the tech to cut off all your shitty P-tex work and belt-grind away your edge filing before he can tune them properly. Offer him a $4.99 six-pack as if that’s worth the extra work. Simper a little.

Day 3

Take newly-tuned skis out on Opening Day; rip out edges and buckle sidewalls while exploring eleven inch deep off-trail powder stash. Return to ski shop with third six-pack and attempt to warranty skis with some sniveling story about how you were just skiing along when…
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Having never tried ski waxing before I may well end up like this ! Very Happy

Will let you know how I get on in due course. Have dug an old pair of skis out to practise on before I have a go on my beloved Salomon X-Wing Tornados !!
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@Griggs, Have fun ... remember to keep the iron moving at all times wink Also -- I would pay more attention to the edges --- keeping them tuned and sharp has a bigger impact on your skiing fun (IMHO) than waxing. Zardoz is you freind if time is short
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Hi

On the subject of edges does anyone have any suggestions as to the best edge shapening tool to use (without the need to remortgage the house!!?) Again there are a bewildering array of different ones available. Do I need to ensure that I edge the skis to the correct edge angle or is this not that important? I'm sure that when they are edged and waxed in the stores both here and in the Alps they just bung them through the machine with no regards to edge angles. I also understand that you need to detune the tip and tail after edging - is there a tool that edges and detunes?

For info skis are 174cm Salomon X-Wing Tornado TI's.

Griggs
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Edge trick tool for about a tenner, but better go for a decent toko edger, with some good diamond files for around forty quid. Detuning tails and tips isn't really done any more due to changes in skis and technique, some gnarly dudes still do it if they are decending icy gullies!!
As for edge angles stick with the original manufactures angles for a while and leave the base angle alone. One trick is to mark the edge with a felt tip pen then you can see where the file is working. Also don't go mad with the filing or you will knacker the skis. Little and often, think of it more as a polish than filing.
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Hi

Quite possibly a daft question but when Salomon say that the edge angle for all models is 2 what does that equate to? If I was to get an edge tool such as the Toko Edge Tuner and set the dial to 88 degrees (90 degrees -2)and then run it lightly along the length of the ski would this be ok and not change the side or base angle at all merely only sharpen the edges?

Sorry if above a really stupid question but I want to make sure I get this right. As I keep reading you can't add the material back on !!

Griggs
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
You are correct the "2" can been interpreted as 88 or 92 - you will need an aluminium oxide stone to deal with rock damage as the edge will become super hardened and a file won't touch the damage. After the stone use a file lightly, followed by a couple of grades of diamond files and finally a gummy stone to take care of a hanging burr.
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The cheap way, which works just as well as any fancy gizmos and irons...

A cheap iron with no stem holes.
Toko universal ski wax
Plastic scraper, just find some reasonably thick piece of plastic.
2 rasp files, 1 really quite course, the other quite fine.

After many years racing on plastic and snow, this is how most people do it, and indeed most ski race prep is still done at top level with hand files.

The only way I have ever cleaned a base is to wax and then scrape off and re wax that pulls dirt out. Certainly enough not to worry about.

Edging is a bit of a learned skill thing, but much better doing it manually than with a tool as you can really fine tune the ski

In my opinion you can not beat an occasional base grind though. But this doesnt have to be often at all.
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Hi

Seems that I am getting to understand more of this now.

Regarding base and side edges - less is definitely more here. For base edge use a gummi stone and singlt cut file to remove rust and nicks. Leave base alone after this. For edges a light run over with something like the Holmenkol Ergo Semi Edge Tool set to the correct angle is the way forward. For the edge one is aiming for more of a polish rather than a full on scrape removing lots of metal. One is aiming for a smooth, shiny edge with no nicks or burrs and sharp enough to remove small filings from a thumb nail.

After this clean bases if required and then apply a good hot wax using a NOT TOO HOT IRON ! Smoke is bad. Iron to be kept moving on ski base all the time. Let wax cool and soak in and then scrape followed by a brush to restore structure.

Will practise on old pair of skis and see how I go. Fingers crossed I will end up with a gleaming well serviced pair of planks !

Griggs
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
Read this article. It'll cover everything. There are videos out there on the you tubes that will also guide you in the right direction

http://www.jonsskituning.co.uk/content/category/5/14/34/
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
The only thing I would add is to be careful not to use too much heat. If you get it right then the wax flows nicely all over the base and is clearly getting into the pores of the base. It also seems to bring out the muck. I always check the topsheet of the ski for heat with my hand. If it feels like it is getting warm then back off!

Well worth getting some skills here. it is a good feeling to know that your skis are well prepared and will go well for you.

snowHead
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So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
I've been skiing for over 30 years and this is the one area of my kit that I have never tried to get to grips with. Be great to be able to master a basic ski service. Not aiming to do anything too complex - I know when it is time to hand something over to the experts ! A simple edge and wax will do for me and I'm sure my skis will thank me for it - my wallet certainly will (after the initial outlay for the kit that is !!) Very Happy
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You know it makes sense.
@Griggs,

As you will have noticed there are as many opinions as there are people, but Spyderjon really is an expert.

Pretty much following his advice I'll tell you what I do with my skis.

I use the Holmenkol tool because it can be used for different edge angles (I do my mate's skis as well), then use a gummy to deburr.

I clean the bases by waxing and scraping with a low melt temperature cheapo cheapo wax a couple of times. That means scraping the wax off (tip to tail always) after 10-15 mins, and repeating until it comes off clean ie if I've done it twice and there's still black gunk in the scrapings then I wax and scrape a 3rd time etc.

Then brush tip to tail with a hard brass brush as this helps clean/restore/provide hugs and kisses to the structure.

Wax and scrape a couple of times with a wax of your choice (I like Holmenkol, but brands are numerous), use horse hair brush to polish and make me feel good about using my Christmas pressies, and ta-da!

Wrap them in towels and never ever let them near that horrible cold white stuff Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Hi mozwold

Many thanks for your reply. Interestingly enough it is the Holmenkol tool that I have ordered. Once you run it along the side edge I understand that you are left an overhanging burr. How do you remove this - purely with the gummi stone? and if so what technique do you employ?

Griggs
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Quote:

I clean the bases by waxing and scraping with a low melt temperature cheapo cheapo wax a couple of times. That means scraping the wax off (tip to tail always) after 10-15 mins, and repeating until it comes off clean ie if I've done it twice and there's still black gunk in the scrapings then I wax and scrape a 3rd time etc.
Wax and scrape a couple of times with a wax of your choice

4 waxes, are you mental, what do you think this does make you faster? makes the bases live longer?? please let me know why you think all that work is necessary, where do you race


Puzzled
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
@geeo,
Quote:

4 waxes, are you mental, what do you think this does make you faster? makes the bases live longer?? please let me know why you think all that work is necessary, where do you race


What's your problem?

I'm not suggesting you do it, I just said that's how I do it. Wax is as cheap as chips and that was the advice I was given by an EXPERT.

No I'm not mental, thanks for asking you insulting b@stard. Evil or Very Mad
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@Griggs,

I'm sure there are many ways of doing it, but I just hold the gummy between finger and thumb, use my finger against the side wall and run the stone down the edge-with a fairly light action. Use a finger nail across the edge, if it doesn't catch the burr's gone. Smile
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One thing, you shouldn;t need to scrape any old wax off, the snow will have done that for you Smile Wax remover is used for repairs, best to keep it for that. If your bases are dirty do a quick wax and scrape to clean them.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
@mozwold, I'm with @geeo on this one - I've never heard any expert say that 4 wax/passes per session is required. I suspect the 'black gunk' your refer to is actually p-tex. Lighten up on the pressure a tad. Or press a bit harder with the scraper with the first pass - I'm not sure which Puzzled
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Snowboard-Ski-Tuning-Wax-Kit-with-Butta-Wax-Free-Base-Preparation-Guide-/301147307124?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Skiing_Accessories&hash=item461dc73c74

This ^ Plus a second hand travel iron, all for under £20 .. Should do the trick ??.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
limegreen1 wrote:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Snowboard-Ski-Tuning-Wax-Kit-with-Butta-Wax-Free-Base-Preparation-Guide-/301147307124?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Skiing_Accessories&hash=item461dc73c74

This ^ Plus a second hand travel iron, all for under £20 .. Should do the trick ??.


am I missing something.

Butta wax 8.99 (slush and rubble)
2 pan scourers 50p
1 cork sanding block 50p
1 rectangle of plastic (£2 guestimate)

a couple of cheapo stickers

plenty of markup
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
In regard of cleaning and brushing and hot wax scraping.... I've never done that Embarassed

What does it give you exactly? Is it so important?
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Pan scourers ?
They are " fine structure pads" .. rolling eyes Very Happy


Last edited by You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net. on Tue 2-12-14 13:14; edited 1 time in total
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 Ski the Net with snowHeads
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Layne wrote:
What does it give you exactly?


A sense of accomplishment.
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