 Poster: A snowHead
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Hi all,
First post on snowheads here. Last Saturday I came back home from a great week in Zermatt with a group friends (6 total). The info I got on here was very useful to plan the trip (choice of resort, etc) so I thought I ought to share my impressions with you.
Travel and accommodation
On paper, getting to Zermatt felt like a challenge for the group - 6 people coming from 6 different cities in France and Belgium, with a combination of planes and trains - but it has to be said that Swiss transport links are very efficient: direct trains to/from airports, short connections, running on time. Don't forget about the Swiss Transfer Ticket, though: single fares looked crazy otherwise.
The flat we rented (haus Bellevue,, near station, can PM me for details) was great: large, well-appointed, well-located, 3 bedrooms & 2 bathrooms, all for about 1900 Fr. for the week. A far cry from the French "shoebox" experience we were all used to.
The resort
Feels posh, but not ostentatious, with a "towny" feel especially around the train station, but quite pretty otherwise. We didn't go out a lot but there seemed to be plenty of options for bars and restaurants, although the crowd was on average notably older than us twenty-somethings. We did have a great fondue at Café Dupont on the last day, however.
Most places were rather pricey but nothing shocking for me, coming from Paris.
The skiing
Here comes the real highlight. We were all blown away by the variety, extent, quality of the slopes, the efficiency of the lifts (on the swiss side at least), and the amazing landscape.
There had been no new snow for a week and the weather was warm and sunny, but the piste conditions were still excellent above 2,500 metres, and all runs but #59 were open.
Favorite places:
- To start the day: the relaxing train ride up the Gornergrat was a perfect way to start almost every day. Contrary to many things I had read here and elsewhere, we didn't feel that 30-ish minutes to get to one of the highest points was particularly slow.
- For the advanced skiers/boarders in the group: the yellow runs off the Rothorn (for the scenery) and the Stockhorn (for the workout)
- For the beginner (but brave) boarder who was with us, the terrain off the Gifthittli chair was a perfect training ground
- For zooming down perfectly groomed, empty pistes: #7 to Cervinia
- For lunch: polenta and sausage stew at the Rifugio Guide del Cervino (Testa Grigia) - we even went twice!
- In general: slopes were empty with a wonderful sense of isolation in many places... Blissful.
Mixed reactions:
- Most of the group found most of Cervinia to be on the "flat" side of things, except 2 of us: the beginner boarder, who enjoyed the slopes above plan Maison, and one skier who really likes fast groomers.
- One day was overcast, yet windless... and the whole Schwarzsee/KM side was closed. We suspect that the lift company was too lazy to open the whole area on a day with even fewer people. Not a major issue since most of us preferred the other areas anyway, but a bit hard to swallow given lift pass prices.
Universal "hates":
- Klein Matterhorn cable car: there were no queues during this quiet week, but this cable car still felt uncomfortable and stuffy. The thin air doesn't help. I can barely imagine what it's like in high season...
- Cervinia layout: very confusing overall. Even had to cross the whole of cervinia resort on foot at one point (from the bottom of Cieloalto), with no proper signage. Also, lifts are much less comfortable than on the swiss side (stairs, standing-only gondolas...)
- Schwarzsee-Furi home run: by the end of the week, this was a poling marathon in the slush, and a nightmare for the boarders. Better download with the gondola, or try #58 (very hard but lots of slushy fun)
Hope this will help those who'd consider a trip there. Let the questions come!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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The flat we rented (haus Bellevue,, near station, can PM me for details) was great: large, well-appointed, well-located, 3 bedrooms & 2 bathrooms, all for about 1900 Fr. for the week. A far cry from the French "shoebox" experience we were all used to.
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balso, welcome to snowheads.  Very useful report, thanks. Can't resist pointing out, however, that for £1300 in the low season (as it is from mid March) you could get a very nicely appointed flat in France, too. 
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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balso, welcome to snowHeads! Great report, thanks.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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pam w, I don't doubt it - will probably stay in France next time, but one of us was really keen on going to Switzerland. We did pay a small premium for the privilege, but none of us being cash-strapped, we thought it was worth it - if only for the (small) sense of adventure that getting out of our country implies!
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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balso, Thanks for posting and welcome to Snowheads!
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